Day 9 - Tetouan

As this talk was going on, we were first staring, then gingerly passing around and finally feasting on the most beautiful little pastry gems, another recurring theme everywhere we go. These stood out in their artistic appearance and delicate flavors. Some reassembled little bird nests filled with nuts, others had shiny gold flakes.

And then this vice president turned poet. He read with humility three enchanting verses, written in lyrical English with lines that evoked all the senses. I was absolutely mesmerized and wondered right then and there why I don't read and/or listen to more poetry. Afterward, he casually mentioned that he writes poems in both English and Arabic, depending on whichever muse visits him that day. "One story leads to a thousand stories…" was one of his lines.

Photos and farewells did not create nearly enough time and appetite for our next stop--lunch! Are you kidding me? But Le Diamant restaurant was waiting, our table all set, and a full three-course meal standing by--after the obligatory bread, spreads and olives. The potato croquettes stood out, as did the whole fish we were each served for our main course--the sauce was spicy--harissa-based maybe? We slammed down the refreshing fruit bowl just in time to board the bus and head to Institute National des Beaux-Arts.

Dr. Mehdi Zouak, the INBA director, was well prepared to welcome us with an official message and quick tour of the school. This is Morocco's only art school with a recognized degree program, which students can complete in three years. It welcomes students from all over the country, but is very competitive, with only 40 slots per year. We saw several studios--for digital work, for printing…then were guided into a classroom where Dr. Zouak had a presentation about the "Soul of Morocco." While we have been presented with an overview of Moroccan history before, this one started with prehistory--a million years ago!--and very clearly spelled out the different stages and dynasties in a way that helped it all gel in my head. "A cultural synthesis of one million years," he told us, and then jumped into a rundown of Moroccan culture. He talked about the medina being the heart of every city, and how many of Morocco's medinas are UNESCO World Heritage sites. He rattled off what each major city is known for, what celebrations take place, what the major arts and crafts are …I couldn't write fast enough! He ended with a fun linguistic note--Morocco is so well known for its leather goods, the French have adopted the term "maroquinerie" for items made of leather.

I settled into the bus thinking our day was over, as we began the three-hour trek back to Rabat. What a lovely feeling to recognize landmarks as we drove into town. "I know where we are!" I told myself more than once. Rabat felt comfortable and familiar. Once in my room, I headed out for a walk--just because--and was instantly drawn to the sound of music just across the street--is it a Moroccan version of la Fête de la Musique, I wondered? The crowd was blocking my view, but I worked my way to see a group of musicians, all in white djellabas and red fezzes, playing violins ( I think! but propped up on their knees!) and other instruments I couldn't make out. But most impressive was the singing--the joyful singing! The crowd was jazzed, and soon many were singing and clapping along with the musicians. The song went on and on--the crowd loved it…I clapped, too, and I didn't need to understand the words to appreciate this was a well-loved tune--people of all ages were singing along, teenagers were dancing, older women were making cell phone videos! After the enthusiastic applause at the end, I asked the woman next to me, "What is this song that everyone knows?" She was delighted to answer, "It's about the journey of the sun through the sky, setting at the end of the day… and the man next to her chimed in: "but told as a story of a man and woman…" I'm still not sure, but that doesn't change the magic of this mini concert. It brings me back to our morning poetry: "You and I know the singing doesn't end here."