We are nearing the end of our time here in Morocco and we have a full day in Essaouira before we head back to the hustle and bustle of Casablanca tomorrow morning. Essaouira is a lovely port city that was formerly known as Mogador. The name comes from the Phoenician word for small fortress–”migdor”-- and it has been an important city for trading and a link from the African continent to Europe. It was even known as the “Port of Timbuktu” during the 18th and 19th centuries for the trade of salt, sugar, gold, and ostrich feathers.

Everyone who I spoke to before this trip had told me how much they loved Essaouira, and I have to say that they undersold the experience. Essaouira is definitely a tourist attraction–from the overwhelming number of stalls selling just about every item associated with Moroccan souvenirs, including the wooden handicrafts that are famous in the city to the ramparts which are famous as a filming location for Astapor in “Game of Thrones”. But it is truly the historical importance and the impact of a number of cultures that have made this place their home for centuries that have melded together to create a city where time seems to have stood still while boasting one of the most spectacular boardwalks in the Mediterranean.

This morning we went to Centre de la Bijouterie Artisanale Maalem Ali 1908 in Essaouira and an example of multiculturalism came up in the types of jewelry produced there–filigree from the Jewish community, enamel and traditional designs from the Amazigh, and engraving from the Arabs. Morocco is a rich mix of cultures, as intertwined as the wires in the filigree jewelry design, and this has been exemplified over and over again during our time here–in the richness of the music, the food, the art, the approach to education, and of course, the jewelry. We all spent quite a bit of time looking at the many, many beautiful items and purchasing quite a few.

From there we took a walking tour around the medina of Essaouira and walked up onto the ramparts overlooking the sea. The view of the sea was impressive, to say the least, and the massive fortifications show the importance of security in the history of this important trading port. This city, like so many others in Morocco, has been built by subsequent cultures–the Portuguese fortress was built in the 16th century and the Sultan Sidi Mohamed bin Abdellah built the medina and other structures in the 18th century, so it is relatively new in comparison to many of the other medinas we have seen during our time in Morocco.

After the end of our tour, I had lunch with several members of our group and the smell of the fritture de poisson and the dorade grillee attracted the local cats, and we shortly had a group of at least six in various positions around and underneath our table. I kept telling one of the cats “la” (no) because he was going to jump up onto the table as he eyed the rest of my whole fried fish while the others laid and meowed at our feet. At the end of lunch, my purse was covered in cat fur and I was very satisfied with the calamari, shrimp, and two types of fried fish especially knowing how close we were to the sea and having seen the multitude of blue fishing boats that are emblematic of the city.

I went out to explore some more as there is so much to see within the medina. I followed my way back along the ramparts, trying to find the Bayt Dakira that we had passed earlier and had been highly recommended to us by a professor from Al Akhawayn in Ifrane. I was surprised that it was a free museum, and it had a collection of items from the Jewish community that once called Essaouira home. After the creation of the state of Israel, nearly 98% of the Jewish community left the Mellah (Jewish quarter) and by the 1980s, the community had largely vanished. There has been an increase in Israeli tourism, trying to get back to their roots, and the Bayt Dakira holds not only a small museum, but also a library and space for research of this community.

As I walked through the winding streets, I made several wrong turns but never felt truly lost because as long as I knew where the sea was, I knew I could find my way back. I stopped in several small shops, buying a few last minute souvenirs and gifts, and learned a lot about the jewelry made in the Saharan region of Morocco from one of the shopkeepers. He showed me the items that he had brought from his hometown and told me about the celebrations he was planning with his family for the upcoming Eid Al-Adha, which is the day of sacrificing sheep in Islam. In fact, we have seen many sheep being sold at the market in the past few days of our trip as we have traveled and the preparations for buying food is much like the shopping frenzy before Thanksgiving or Christmas in the US. As he showed me his designs, I sipped on mint tea and learned about life in the Saharan region of Morocco. I ended up only buying one small bracelet that I hadn’t intended to buy, but it felt more like a reminder of the experience than a souvenir to take home.

One of the highlights of the trip occurred tonight as we made our way back towards the medina after some time to work on our projects and have group meetings. We attended an English Street Class and since we are all teachers, it was an incredible experience to see the learning taking place literally on the street in Essaouira. The coordinator of the program is also a teacher, and has recruited volunteers to teach English in the back of a street within the medina. As we arrived, students began unloading a whiteboard and tons of plastic chairs, sitting them in rows under the street lamps. We had a tour of the spaces that were used for classrooms–from the end of an alley up against a metal gate to an empty space between buildings that were beginning to crumble. The students were shy to speak in English at first, but a few of us volunteered to teach some short lessons and as we started to talk amongst them and practice their English, they relaxed and were much more open. One of the students thanked me over and over again for coming–saying that our presence and acceptance really made a difference and that they appreciated the chance to practice English with us. We had a wonderful hour that went by way too quickly and if I ever find myself in Essaouira again, I hope that I can be one of the volunteers to help with this incredible program and students who are passionate to learn language.

By Lauren Hines

Resources:

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/753/

https://www.wmf.org/project/jewish-quarter-essaouira#:~:text=During%20the%20French%20Protectorate%2C%20Essaouira,area%20after%20centuries%20of%20occupation.