FT7 | Alpine Rock I

Checkpoint: Top rope belay

Demo: Lead Belay, Rappel, Anchors

Practice: Lead Belay, Rappel

FT Logistics

Date: 4/12

Time: 8am or 1pm

Meeting Location: Tacoma Clubhouse

*Consult Equipment Matrix on Home Page to Reference What to Bring*

Learning Objectives:

Students will be able to:

Demonstrate safe lead belaying including proper setup, communication and belay technique, with some prompting from an instructor.
Describe and demonstrate safe rappelling technique using an extended ATC device with autoblock backup, with some prompting from an instructor.
Describe the elements that make up a safely-constructed SERENE anchor for use when climbing on rock.

Rough Agenda:

Introductions (10 minutes)

Lead belay demo (30 minutes)

Rappel demo (30 minutes)

*Top rope belay checkpoint (20 minutes)

*Lead belay practice (90 minutes)

*Rappel practice (30 minutes)

Anchors demo (20 minutes)

Debrief (10 minutes)

* Small group rotation

Top Rope Belay Checkpoint:

You will be checked on the following:

Accurate set-up (tied in, clove hitch attachment to ground anchor, climber on belay, climber rope feeding out correct side of belay device, climber tied in)
Partner checks and communication (check each other for safety, go through climbing commands: belay on?, on belay, climbing, climb on)
Never let go of the break strand of the rope
Smooth lowering and communication (take, gotcha, ready to lower, lowering)

Types of Rock Climbing

This article (click image to left to get taken to the link) gives a good overview of different methods of rock climbing: aid, sport, traditional (trad), free climbing, etc.

As a basic student, you will be doing alpine rock climbing, and specifically following on trad (if you go on to the intermediate course you start leading on trad). Although you will only be following in this course, you will be expected to learn and understand multi-pitch climbing transitions, identifying SERENE rock anchors, how to efficiently climb and remove your leader's trad gear, and how to do multi-pitch rappels.

Alpine rock climbing is a lot of fun because it gives you a good variety of having an approach (often including snow travel with ice axe and crampons), and low-grade (up to 5.6) but high exposure rock climbing.

(climbing what looks like the gorgeous waves of cracked granite in Squamish, BC)

Anchors

Read this AAC article on anchors.

Rock climbing anchors fall under these three main categories:

Natural Anchors (trees and rocks)
Fixed Anchors (bolted)
Removable Anchors (trad gear)

You will likely see all 3 types of anchors on Basic Rock Climbs, however the first two are most common on popular, low-grade cascade climbs. Although basic rock climbing routes require traditional climbing (they are not bolted), anchors and rappel stations are all typically bolted since they are such highly trafficked routes.

There are many different ways to create good anchors (remember SERENE principals), some examples of common anchors are listed below. Note that while Quad and Sliding X anchors are commonly seen on bolted anchors, you can create these same type of anchors with trad gear or with natural anchors, as well.

Review the links below to learn about the most common basic alpine rock anchors you'll come across. Reminder, you are not expected to build anchors for this course, but you should always take your safety into your own hands and be able to inspect and identify different anchors for safety.

Fixed (Bolted) Anchors

Quad Anchor (article about a poorly built anchor + AMGA video on how to build a quad)
Sliding X Anchor

Note that typically bolted anchors have 2 anchor points, while trad gear anchors typically have 3.

Removable (Trad) Anchors

3 Piece Trad Anchor (equalette shown in first demo of the video, only watch through 1:20)
3 Piece Trad Anchor w/ 2 Slings (sliding x with limiting knots)

Natural Anchors

This video shows what kind of rock & natural features you can use for protection while climbing. Similarly, you can create anchors around these types of features so long as you assess it's integrity (is it strong, are there any cracks or weaknesses in the rock).
Tree Anchor w/ Basket Hitch (you can create this with cordelette or webbing)

On climbs, you will see at anchor and rappel stations, others have left behind webbing and cordellete. It's helpful to check the general wear and if they wrote a date on the webbing so you can assess whether you should leave behind your own gear or if it is safe to use what is left there. If you/your leader decide it is best to leave behind your own gear, remove an old piece of webbing/cordelette and carry it home with you so that we aren't adding more clutter to the mountain. (See this article for more).

You can see in the photo below that multiple pieces of cord/webbing have been slung around this rock feature to create a rappel station. You or your leader should always carry extra cord or webbing and a rap ring or 2 for back-up on climbs.

(filmed at local climbing crag Exit 38, off I-90!)

Lead Belaying

Review this REI article on belaying basics, this REI article on climbing communication, & this REI article on lead belaying.

In this course, you must learn to be a proficient belayer, especially a lead belayer. All of the basic alpine rock climbs you go on will require you to lead belay (although you will not lead climb).

ABC of Climbing

When you are getting set-up to belay your climber, you should ensure you have checked your rope is properly set-up with your ABCs (anchor, belay, climber).

Anchor: As the belayer, you are cloved in to the anchor, shortly after your tie-in point. In the event your climber takes a lead fall, this will prevent you from flying up in the air and getting injured or injuring your partner.
Belay: Your belay device is set-up properly, above your anchor attachment.
Climber: Your climber is tied in and their end of the rope is feeding out of the correct end of your belay device.

Extended Rappel

Reference this Mountaineer's article.

How to Set Up a Rappel

You will never set up a rappel as a basic student, your leader will. However, you should be able to identify a safe rappel-setup and anchor. Always check your partner's work and be responsible for your own safety!

Your leader may set up a single or a double rope rappel, depending on the length of rope needed to get down to the next rappel station or the start of the climb. You learn the overhand bend knot in this course, which is used to tie two ends of rope together for rappelling.

Fireman's Belay & Rappel Commands

Start watching the video below from 3:45.

Fireman's belay is a good back-up for nervous or new belayers. Since we use an auto-block (3rd hand) for our rappel set-up, this skill is not necessary from a safety perspective unless requested by the rappeler.

When you are ready to rappel, ensure you announce: "Rappelling!"

Once you reach the bottom and remove your rappel device & autoblock, announce "off rappel!" so that the next person in line can begin rappelling right away (efficiency in alpine climbing is critical!)

Rappel Extension Devices

A helpful video that covers a number of ways to set up a rappel extension. We encourage students to think beyond a pre-sewn PAS, in favor of something that can be redeployed for other uses, thus taking up less space on your rack.

Closing the System on Rappel

A barrel knot is an easy and efficient method for closing the system before you begin your rappel.

Upcoming Checkpoint

You will be asked to demonstrate proficiency at lead belaying at FT 8.

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