CS4 | Glacier Travel II
Weather and Trip Planning, Snow Camping, Winter Overnight Preparation
Classroom Sessions Logistics
Meeting Time: 2/21, 7:00 PM Pacific Time
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Meeting ID: 829 7646 6202
Passcode: 677181
Homework:
Prior to this lecture, please review this course page. Anticipated reading time is 40 minutes to an hour, including the blog post from Colin Haley and the case studies.
Learning Objectives:
Students will be able to...
Describe weather considerations as they apply to climbing trips
Identify situations in which a "no-go" call is the most appropriate one
Discuss local weather patterns and the impact on local climbing
Describe expectations for the upcoming winter overnight field trip, including packing and gear considerations, etc.
Identify and describe differences between winter camping and summer camping
Mountain Weather
Mountain weather is a primary concern to the mountain traveler. For a climber, some knowledge and understanding about mountain weather is more than just a convenience-- it is a matter of safety. Weather is often the critical factor when making a go or no-go decision before or during a climb.
In Washington State, the variability of the weather makes knowledge and observations an essential part of mountaineering. Every member of a climbing party should be aware of the weather, not just the leader. Weather conditions should be monitored throughout the season and more closely within the last 2 weeks leading up to the trip. Continue to monitor the weather while packing, and try to check the weather the morning of the trip. Checking reliable weather forecasts, topped-off with a good understanding of mountain weather can help make for a more safe and enjoyable outing. To better understand weather, you should concentrate on increasing your knowledge of:
Regional weather patterns
Effect of regional patterns on local mountain weather
Understanding of how each of the following indicate weather change:
Sudden major change in wind direction
Sudden temperature change
Obvious barometric pressure changes
Changes in cloud strata directions
Cloud level rising/falling
How these weather influences drive changes in the snow pack, causing avalanches.
METEOROLOGICAL FUNDAMENTALS
From: National Avalanche School, 1981. Reno, Nevada
Some Rules of Thumb for Forecasting Mountain Weather without Weather Maps
Steadily falling barometric pressure usually indicates an approaching storm.
Steadily rising barometric pressure usually indicates clearing.
The second night of a storm is usually the coldest.
Cirrus clouds can precede a storm by 24 hours or more. (A ring around the moon is caused by thin cirrus.)
Thickening and lowering clouds (usually approaching from the west) indicate an approaching storm.
Thickening mountain wave clouds indicate increasing moisture and winds aloft and a possible approaching storm.
Frontal passage is often indicated by the lowest point of the barograph trace, a wind shift, and the sudden appearance of heavily rimed snow crystals or graupel.
There is little chance of precipitation continuing when barometric pressure is 30.10 inches or higher.
Thinning and lifting clouds indicate clearing weather.
When the temperature during a storm drops to 5 ºF or colder, snowfall will rapidly diminish.
On clear and calm nights, valley temperatures will be colder than ridge-top temperatures. (Inversion)
Valley fog clearing before noon indicates fair weather.
Snow plumes on ridges and mountain wave clouds indicate strong winds at high elevations.
If the wind veers with height (turns clockwise; e.g., southwest at ridge-top, northwest aloft), expect a warming trend.
If the wind backs with height (turns counterclockwise; e.g., west at ridge-top, south aloft), expect a cooling trend.
If the wind veers with time (turns clockwise; e.g., south turning to west), expect mostly fair weather: low pressure is passing to the north.
If the wind backs with time (turns counterclockwise; e.g., northwest turning to southwest), expect snow: low pressure is passing to the south.
Temperatures change 3-5 degrees Fahrenheit every 1,000 feet in elevation change.
Resources for weather forecasts in the mountains
Example for Mount Rainier, Paradise elevation (note the ability to choose the elevation you're forecasting!)
Windy (A fantastic resource with many different layers, view options, etc. Takes some practice, but once you have it dialed in, this is an invaluable resource. The app is also very good (make sure you're downloading the Windy.com app, not Windy.app!)).
Snow/ Winter Camping
If there is an adequate amount of snow and you have a lot of time you can build snow shelters, such as igloos, snow caves or snow trenches. They tend to be more secure and warmer in wintery condition than tents, but take a lot of time to build. A tent for winter camping needs to withstand both wind and snow and it must have a roof line that allows snow to fall off. Four-season tents generally meet these criteria. However, sturdy 3 season tents can also be acceptable. Anchor the tent using snow tent stakes or deadman anchors.
Some considerations in choosing a winter snow camp:
Camping regulations
Other campers
Wind – avoid ridge tops and open area where wind can blow down tents or create drifts
Be aware of dead branches hanging in trees (“widow makers”)
Avoid low-lying areas where the coldest air will settle
Select sites that do not pose any risk from avalanches
Exposure – south-facing areas will give longer days and more direct sunlight
Water availability (lakes or streams nearby) – always camp 200 ft. or more from a body of water
When packing up and leaving the campsite, work together to fill in all holes in the camping area, so it will be undetectable after 2-3 inches of snow has fallen. Pick up any trash, collapse snow structures, cover up discolored snow, and fill snow pits that can pose cave-in hazards for other visitors and wildlife.
SLEEPING, SLEEPING BAGS, AND INSULATION PADS
You will probably wake up a number of times during the night. This is normal at altitude and in cold weather. Your body needs to change positions to allow for circulation to compressed tissues and to move around a bit so that muscle movement generates heat.
Some tips to stay warm and get a good night's rest:
Use the restroom before you get in your tent, so you don’t have to get up and possibly go out into the cold at night. You may want to use a “pee bottle” in your tent– make sure you mark it well.
Brush off any snow from your boots or packs with a whisk broom so you don’t bring any snow inside the tent.
Put water bottles with hot water or tea (to drink in the morning) into your sleeping bag. Put them in a dry sac in case they leak.
Remove any wet/damp layers and replace them with dry ones, particularly socks. Wear layers of dry clothes for the night.
Wear a hat, fleece booties, thin gloves and scarf around the neck to help keep you warm.
Get warm before you get into your sleeping bag. Do some jumping jacks, etc. .
Pre-warm your bag with your body (get it nice and toasty). Place damp items in the sleeping bag with you near your core (stomach, back, sides). This will help dry them overnight.
Sleep with your face out of the bag. This reduces moisture build-up inside the bag.
Ventilate the tent so moisture can escape.
Bring ear plugs, people may snore at elevation.
Sleeping bags for snow camping should be rated to temperatures below what you will likely experience if you want to be comfortable. It is recommended to use two insulating pads when camping on snow: they are indispensable for sleeping comfortably at night. Many people will carry one closed-cell foam pad (such as the z-rest) and one inflatable pad.
Winter Overnight Prep
Planning and Packing
Spending the nights or many nights in the wilderness requires more time for planning. Snow camping in winter conditions requires far more planning due to the harsher weather conditions and additional considerations needed to keep warm and comfortable. Many campers like to have the comforts of home, but since you will be carrying everything on your back, you will need to streamline what you take with you without compromising your safety.
The most efficient way to streamline gear is to plan with your team/tentmate(s) in advance, and coordinate shared equipment (tents, stove/pot/fuel, water purification system, snow shovel, and other group gear). Make a checklist of each of the items and dole out the group gear amongst the team members (many partners do it by weight).
Try packing a few days before the trip to see if all fits in your pack. You may want to reread Freedom of the Hills "Tips on packing" for tips on distributing weight. Make sure you have your pack properly fitted and adjusted, and then try walking around with it loaded. Make sure it is within the weight you can carry comfortably for a long distance. If everything does not fit or the load is too heavy, go through the checklist and identify what you can leave out or substitute with something smaller or lighter, without sacrificing safety.
It is good practice to try out any new (and rented) equipment, such as tent, stove, and water filter, while you are home (BEFORE the trip) so that you make sure you know how to use it, it is in working order, and you will be able to set it up quickly even after a long hike as the temperature drops. When you get back home after each trip make notes on your checklist, what worked and what didn’t, and what could be improved; it will be extremely useful when you prepare for the next camping trip.
Clothing
Your body essentially acts as a furnace, producing heat through chemical reactions (food) and activity. As you increase your physical activity your body increases heat production; when you decrease or stop activity the body decreases heat production and starts to lose heat. You will need to figure out a layering system that will keep you cool and dry during physical activity, but warm at rest.
The key to staying warm in winter conditions is to stay dry. Typically, climbers will start with a moisture-wicking base layer and a shell during heavy physical activity, and add mid insulating layers as physical activity decreases or temperatures drop. When at rest, put on additional layers before you become chilled since it is more difficult to get warm again once your core temperature drops. When you/the team is ready to be active, take off layers until you feel just cool, since your body will start producing heat as soon as you start moving, and you want to avoid sweating if possible.
When you get into camp, try to change into dry clothes as soon as possible. This will help you stay warm for the rest of the evening and into the night. NOTE: even sweaty cotton underwear and bras make it harder to stay warm. Avoid wearing any cotton clothing on backcountry backpacking trips in the winter.
Colin Haley, professional climber, talks about his layering system during a cold trip (10-15 minutes):
Food and Water
Take foods that are light weight, compressible, simple to prepare and which require minimal clean-up. Prepackaged or repackaged foods save on both bulk and weight. For some climbers, “carb loading” can give you a head start on your energy needs; it’s a good idea to eat a carb heavy breakfast. Be as creative as you’d like when planning your meals— but make sure they work at home before trying them out on a trip.
It is important to stay hydrated during an outing, and this can be even more difficult when the temperatures drop. Many climbers use an insulating Nalgene sleeve to store water, in their pack or even better in your jacket. Make sure to store the Nalgene upside down, so if the water does begin to freeze, it freezes at the bottom of the container. If you prefer a bladder and tube system, make sure you use an insulating tube sleeve and store the mouthpiece in your jacket to keep it from freezing.
Either keep water inside your tent at night, or bury it in the snow. Snow acts as an excellent insulator and can keep water from freezing. Make sure to mark where you buried it!
LIVE CS 4 Case Studies.pdfCase Studies
Read and be ready to discuss these case studies at the lecture.