Classroom Sessions Logistics

Meeting Time: 1/31,  7:00 PM Pacific Time

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Meeting ID: 821 6840 1224

Passcode: 420886

Material Covered:

The third lecture introduces snow and glacier travel.

Learning Objectives:

By the end of CS3, students will be able to...

1. Describe avalanche-related considerations as they apply to backcountry travel and climbing situations

2. List and describe some potential hazards of traveling on glaciers.

3. Describe, broadly, the planning considerations that go into a Mountaineers basic glacier climb.

4. List and describe student responsibilities before and during a Mountaineers basic glacier climb.

5. Describe what happens at a glacier base-camp and the roles and duties of the climbers at the camp.

6. Identify some of the components in a crevasse rescue system.

What to Expect When Climbing on Glaciers

The following is a general outline of what to expect and what is expected of you on a glacier climb. Glaciated peaks of the Northwest are big (i.e. Mount Rainier, Mount Adams) and if not big, they can be very remote. Glacier climbs are not typically quick and easy. Nearly all take a minimum of two days. Glacier climbs are complex events. Each member of the climbing party must be ready and understand the goals and the team must plan and organize carefully. If someone forgets an item of equipment, it can potentially stop the trip for the whole team. The following is a breakdown of events involved in planning for a typical glacier climb.

Pre-Climb Planning:

Pre-climb planning, primarily done by the leader, typically starts several weeks or months in advance.  After deciding on a peak and route, leaders, can better understand the various technicalities of the route, and with those details they can start to form the team. 

In selecting the team, the leader will often screen participants to ensure they are competent, comfortable on specific terrain and/or have a specific fitness level due to the speed needed to accomplish the goal (this is where reading the leader’s notes is important).  

About two weeks out, the leader will start looking for more recent beta on the route/conditions. Leaders will assess what gear each member and/or the group needs to bring or special circumstances/considerations about the route (i.e. will there be running water or do they need to plan to bring x amounts of stoves and fuel for x number of climbers. Is there ice on the summit ridge, so we need x number of ice screws? If there is ice on the ridge will it be safe to take the team to the top or should they ditch this plan and try something else?). In addition, the leader will start confirming participation on the climb, and may start collecting emergency contact information, tent partner requests, and will try to understand what each participant has to contribute for group gear. 

About a week out, the leader will start to distribute and finalize the details of the climb: climb itinerary, tent partners, personal gear, group gear, logistics, and potential concerns. They will also be monitoring the weather, to sometimes make a go/no go last minute decision. Leaders vary in how they plan their climbs. Some go into great detail and others are more general in their approach. Your job in preparing for the pre-climb is to do your planning as far as you can, go over your equipment status, identify concerns you have about the climb, and be ready with a list of questions.  

Things You Should Know After Good Pre-Climb Planning:

1. Who is in the party and who is your tent mate

2. The climbing route, itinerary, and any route concerns or considerations 

3. The equipment you must have for the climb and what group gear you are required to bring

4. Meeting times and locations for carpooling to the trailhead

5. The leader’s expectations for the climbing party

6. Weather conditions

The Night Before:

This can be a big experience the novice climber! Your equipment may not fit in the pack, and when you finally get it all in, you might feel as though you can barely lift it and are worried about keeping up with the group. Don’t give up, persevere and it will work out. It is a good strategy to practice packing your gear load a few days in advance; if you are still worried then, contact the leader to find ways to save on size or weight.  

The Trailhead:

Arrive early! 99% of your packing should be finished before you show up at the trailhead.  The leader will have some last minute instructions and equipment checks to review that everyone has required gear. As a student you will have the honor of carrying a rope and possibly other group gear. Don’t worry: if you carry it in, someone else will carry it out.

Base Camp:

Arrival at base camp marks the end of the approach. You will probably be tired, hungry, and sore, but remember this is not a guided tour. Don’t wait for the leader to tell you every detail of what to do. Grab a quick snack then, start:

• Filtering water or set up stoves to melt snow for drinking water and cooking. 

NOTE:  If you are carrying a stove, and snow needs to be melted for drinking and cooking: find a good spot, get the stove set up and start the process of making water before you do anything else. This will likely take a long time, so as others finish with their tent set up they can come take over melting water or set up your tent for you.  

• Building tent platforms (for snow sites) and pitch your tent.

• Digging kitchen platforms/benches

• Help others with their set up or filtering water.

• Change into dry clothes/Stay warm.

• After all the above is done start making dinner.

                  Before you get into your sleeping bag for the night you should know or have done the following:

1. Departure time, so you can plan your wake up time.

2. Alarm is set, or someone knows they are supposed to wake you up.

3. Who is on your rope team, your position on the rope, rope is set up and ready to go. 

4. Any potential concerns about the route.

5. Your water bottles are full (not left out in the cold), and your breakfast is ready for quick preparation. 

6. Your head lamp, harness, and chest sling are nearby and ready, and crampons fit your boots.

7. Your summit pack is mostly ready (you have food and clothing not being worn packed).

If you have all of the above in hand, you’re pretty well set.  If not, don’t go to bed until it’s done. Also, if you tend to be slow, it’s your responsibility to get up a little earlier to make sure you’re ready on time. Do not leave the team waiting for you. 

Summit Day:

Summit day starts early.  Normally, wake up time is between midnight and 3 AM, with departure an hour later. Earlier start times mean it’s safer to travel on a glacier in the early hours when the snow is frozen. Snow bridges are stronger, and there is less of a chance of snow/ice or rock fall from higher on the mountain and avalanche hazards increase on the higher peaks after late morning. It is also easier and faster to walk on a hard snow surface. Summit days are generally long days! 

A few notes on summit day events:

1. Wake Up On Time: When it’s wake up time you will feel lousy and feel like you didn’t sleep at all. This is normal, and get up and get moving!

2. Departure Time: Don’t waste time! Your goal is to have you and your gear ready, and to be tied-into the rope at your spot by departure time. Don’t make the group wait for you. 

3. Summit: The summit means you are halfway there! Depending on the leader and prevailing conditions, your stay at the top may be brief or longer. The leader will let you know. On the way down use caution. Stay alert. 

4. Eat and Drink: you will likely not be very hungry or thirsty in the morning. Eat and drink anyway. You are using an enormous amount of energy at high altitudes. Don’t bonk. 

5. Return to The Trailhead: Have a change of clean dry clothes at the car. It will make the trip home much more pleasant for you. 

6. Drive home: Expect your climb and drive home to take ALL day. Do not make afternoon or evening plans. If the hour is not too late, most climbing teams will arrange to stop for dinner as a group on the way home. If the hour is late, be safe – have some caffeine, or stop for a nap rather than driving exhausted.