Embedded Files
FT Logistics
FT Logistics
Date: 1/25
Time: 8am or 1pm
Meeting Location: Tacoma Clubhouse
*Consult Equipment Matrix on Home Page to Reference What to Bring*
Learning Objectives:
Students will be able to:
Describe and demonstrate tying into the middle and end of a glacier-travel rope using the correct knot(s) and carabiners, with some prompting from an instructor.
Describe and demonstrate using a prusik to safely ascend up a rope and back down, wearing a backpack, with some prompting from an instructor.
Describe and demonstrate safe tying and clean dressing of all knots required for the course, with support from an instructor.
Describe the 10 Essentials (“10 Es”), and indicate them among own gear, with some prompting from an instructor.
Discuss and describe course-required gear and appropriate clothing for field trips and climbs.
Rough Agenda:
Introductions (15 minutes)
Demo glacier tie-in (end and middle climber) and prusiking (30 minutes)
*Glacier tie-in (middle climber) and prusiking (50 minutes)
*Knots (50 minutes)
*Gear Review (25 minutes)
Debrief (10 minutes)
* Small group rotation
Why Do We Rope Up?
Why Do We Rope Up?
On Mountaineer's Basic Glacier Climbs, you are required to rope up and travel in at least a party of two rope teams. However, it's important you think about why we rope up and don't have the illusion that because you are roped up, you are automatically safe. There are scenarios and conditions where it may actually be safer not to rope up.
Questions to ponder:
What are the pros and cons of roping up?
What are scenarios where it may be safer not to rope up?
Reading:
Please read section 4.6 of the article below, "How to Traverse a Glacier" which covers "When Not To Rope Up." Reading the entire article is not required but recommended.
Read this Article: REI - When and How to Rope Up
Also read the article to the right "'They all disappeared': 3 climbers die on Hood" for a case study highlighting some of the risks associated with roped climbing on certain terrain.
Roping Up for Glacier Travel
Roping Up for Glacier Travel
Checklist
Rope spacing prepared (10-# of climbers=# of arm lengths between climbers, remainder is kiwi coiled)
Climbers tied into rope (end climbers- rewoven figure-8; middle climbers- butterfly knot)
End climbers have kiwi coils on
Prusiks on rope (end climbers: one prusik (klemheist preferred); middle climbers: one prusik (klemheist preferred) on either side of your butterfly knot)
Chest harness on
Partner safety & harness checks
Falling Into a Crevasse
Falling Into a Crevasse
One example of what a crevasse fall can look like! This person is on skis and unroped so their rescue will look a bit different than ours since we travel roped.
Roped Glacier Travel
Roped Glacier Travel
Rope Spacing
Rope Spacing
General rule of thumb for Cascade Glaciers:
10 minus number of climbers on the rope team = # of arm lengths distance between climbers. e.g. 10 - 3 climbers = 7 arm lengths of rope between each climber.
Kiwi Coil
Kiwi Coil
Used for front and end climbers on rope
Prusiking
Prusiking
Kiwi Coil
Kiwi Coil
Used for front and end climbers on rope
This video on prusiking shows how to prusik up the rope and get yourself out of a crevasse. In situations where you are injured or unable to prusik out, your teammates will need to rescue you, a skill you will learn and start practicing at FT2 and on. This has a couple advanced techniques so for now just get comfortable with the basic setup and get good at it so you always have that in your toolkit.
If you fall into a crevasse and are conscious and able, you should immediately start trying to rescue yourself by prusiking up the rope and out of the crevasse.
Pack drop: Girth hitch a double sling through your top pack loop. Once you have ascended a short distance, clip the double sling to the extra rope between you and your prusiks and gently drop your pack by slowly letting out the double sling.
IMPORTANT: Prusiking is extremely physical and requires upper body/core strength and good fitness. Every year, some students struggle with prusiking due to their fitness level. You must be fit enough to do this essential rescue technique as a climber.
Alpine Draws and Racking Gear
Alpine Draws and Racking Gear
Quick guide for making an alpine draw
Quick guide for making an alpine draw
Racking gear
Racking gear
Gear Review
Gear Review
We will check your gear to make sure it is acceptable for use in the course and for alpine climbs generally.
Bring your 10 E's and list them off (from memory) to an instructor. Instructors may suggest you acquire new or different 10 E's based on what you have.
Navigation (compass & map)
a. Compass requirements: The Mountaineers Navigation Course has compass requirements (adjustable declination, sighting mirror, etc.) so be sure to check with that program when purchasing your compass. GPS and altimeter not required.
Sun protection (sunglasses, sunscreen)
Insulation (extra clothing)
Illumination (head lamp & extra batteries)
First-aid supplies (mountaineering oriented kit)
Fire (matches & fire starter)
Repair kit (knife, duct tape, zip ties, etc.) - knife is minimum requirement
Nutrition (extra food)
Hydration (extra water)
Emergency shelter (e.g. space blanket, tarp, emergency bivy)
Upcoming Checkpoints:
Upcoming Checkpoints:
At FT 3, you will be checked on your knowledge of the 10 essentials, knot-tying and ability to ascend a rope by prusking.
Google Sites
Report abuse