My trip to Athens began with a few unexpected twists and a lot of gratitude. Somewhere between my 5:00 a.m. flight to SeaTac and boarding, I realized I left the one medication I absolutely needed sitting on my bathroom counter. After a flurry of calls to a dozen pharmacies, a quick chat with my provider, and an impromptu Uber dash (with suitcase in tow) to the nearest Costco, the crisis was averted. A huge thanks to the pharmacy tech, Kevin, who kindly set aside the prescription so no one else filled it. The staff there were true lifesavers!
On the way there and back, I was reminded that travel begins long before the destination. My drivers (one from Sudan, the other from Rwanda) each shared their stories of leaving civil conflict behind and finding peace in the United States. Their gratitude and resilience left a deep impression on me. They were, fittingly, the first of many people from around the world I would meet on this journey; a humbling reminder that travel is as much about people as it is about places.
By the time I finally returned to the airport from my impromptu pharmacy run, the layover had nearly disappeared, but I arrived with plenty of breathing room; a small victory in itself. Icelandair gave me a flutter of worry, hinting that weather might delay our flight to Copenhagen. Once again, God's blessings were evident: the plane lifted off on time and even nudged its way ahead of schedule. I found myself seated next to a remarkable woman from Japan who is an art teacher in the U.S. and a fearless solo traveler. We swapped stories and travel tips, savoring that rare camaraderie that forms midair, high above the clouds.
Left: Reykjavik, Iceland; Above: Copenhagen's airport feels like a mall
The real lesson in patience and gratitude came on the last leg of my journey. Athens was in the grips of a “white strike,” a protest by air traffic controllers to ease their heavy workload. Incoming flights were reduced by 25% and our departure was pushed back 90 minutes. Arriving late, I discovered my original driver had vanished, leaving me momentarily stranded. Though I considered grabbing a taxi, a quick call to the hotel produced another driver. Only then did God's bigger plan reveal itself: had I arrived on time, I would have been in a car accident with the first driver. What initially felt like an inconvenient delay turned out to be a quiet blessing, a gentle reminder that the God often works in mysterious ways.
Acropolis Select Hotel is charming in that quirky, character-filled way Europe does best, complete with an elevator that feels more like a small, temperamental capsule than a machine. I unpacked, poured myself the complimentary glass of wine, and let the city’s rhythms lull me into sleep. Tomorrow promises a full day of wandering, wandering, and wonder—Athens, finally, awaits.
Left: The bathroom was perfect and even included a towel rack in the shower, perfect for hanging clothes to release wrinkles
Above: The bed was quite comfortable and the room came with a complimentary bottle of wine
Upper Right: Not bad for being awake more than 24 hours!
Lower Right: A light breakfast before the food tour.
I spotted Diane Kochalis’s email about Athens food tours and signed up on a whim—only to discover I had the whole experience to myself. Her son became my guide, and what a joy it was to see Athens through his eyes while tasting its flavors.
We sipped thick, bitter Greek coffee on a sunlit sidewalk, chatting about the curious ways Greece and the U.S. mirror—and differ from—each other. We wove through a bustling market alive with the scent of fresh seafood and butchered meats, nibbled sweets at the city’s oldest bakery, and explored the world of traditional cheeses.
The honey tasting was a revelation. Some bees, I learned, specialize in tree sap instead of flowers—a new piece of knowledge as sweet as the vanilla fir honey I couldn’t resist buying to bring home. By the end, I was full in every sense: my stomach, my curiosity, and my wonder at this living, breathing city.
Sure, not my best angle , but jet-lagged and grinning, I was thrilled to dive into Athens’ history and its food.
This baklava is traditionally made for weddings and is skillfully made by the pastry chef who runs Krinos, the oldest bakery in Athens (est. 1923!).
Wild Souls café where we picked up some coffee (for my guide) and tea (for me).
At Harry’s Kitchen, pies are made fresh every day. The secret? Ingredients gathered from the nearby central market each morning, cooked simply and seasonally. The three we had were spinach, cheese, and mushroom. Delicious! Harry and his wife stopped their busy day to talk with me and share their love for making food with love.
Cheese tasting is always fun, but these local offerings were in a league of their own at Strougka Cheese Shop — fresher, more flavorful, and far superior to the imported kinds we get in my small town. The salty brine of the feta was more flavorful than any I have had. For a while, we had the shop entirely to ourselves, enjoying a quiet moment of indulgence. Still, it was clear this cheese store is a favorite among the locals, a place where people come for quality and familiarity, day after day.
Traditional Greek coffee is meant to be savored, not rushed like an espresso at an Italian bar. It is brewed in copper pots, called briki, whose bases sit in heated sand, with the coffee carefully swirled to ensure an even, perfect brew. Locals sip it slowly, often over long, engaging conversations. A word of caution: never drink to the bottom of your cup, as the grounds settle there and leave a bitter, gritty finish. The Turkish delight served alongside was just as the name promises—utterly delightful.
The Central Market (Dimotiki Agora) was an experience unto itself. The smells instantly reminded me of visiting Pike Place Market in Seattle many times during my teens and adulthood — fresh fish, sizzling meats, and vibrant produce filling the air. It was a feast for the eyes, with fruits, vegetables, and other products displayed in their freshest, most unprocessed forms. I had been warned before entering that butchered lamb is often hung at eye level, and while that may surprise some, I had read about the market in advance and found the whole scene invigorating; a lively, authentic taste of daily life in Athens.
Above: Off we went for olive tasting! Having never been much of an olive fan, I approached with some hesitation. The green olives were predictably bitter, but I was pleasantly surprised by the kalamata. hey carried a hint of raisin-like sweetness, though with the unmistakable saltiness of a classic Greek olive. Quite the unexpected delight for my palate!
Our next stop was the butcher where savory aromas filled the air. I sampled a meat my guide warned is often too strong for many, seasoned with fenugreek and other bold spices. It was surprisingly enjoyable, though I would not make a sandwich out of it, this type of cured meat would be a perfect addition to a charcuterie board.
Our final stop was for honey tasting, and this shop did not disappoint. Dozens upon dozens of varieties were on display, each more intriguing than the last. Living in an agricultural area, I have often thought about keeping bees in my own backyard, but I was fascinated to learn about bees that specialize in tree sap rather than flower nectar. These honeys have a lower sugar content and are prized for both culinary and medicinal uses. Naturally, I could not esist bringing home a jar of vanilla fir honey as a sweet reminder of this delicious stop.
I spent the morning following most of Rick Steves’ Athens city walk, weaving through unfamiliar streets and discovering others who were doing the same, though not officially on the tour. Some clutched guidebooks tucked slightly to the side of the walkway while others listened eagerly, curious about what a guided tour might offer. A few of us found ourselves helping one another navigate, laughing at how landmarks had shifted since the audio guide was recorded.
Along the way, I made a few furry companions: friendly street cats who luxuriated in head scratches and seemed just as delighted by the morning sun as I was. It was yet another gentle reminder that travel isn’t just about monuments and maps; it about the small, unexpected connections along the way.
Syntagma Square is broad and busy, a natural gathering place for Athenians and a perfect spot to watch the rhythm of daily life unfold.
Upper Left: Hadrian's Arch stands the test of time
Lower Left: Just like in the U.S., it is a great honor for a soldier to be selected to guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Their traditional skirts, known as fustanella, feature dozens of pleats, each one a testament to history and ceremonial precision. Behind the soldier is the Parliament building.
Below: Wandering through the market in Plaka
Hadrian's Arch continues to be admired centuries after it was first built
Our next stop was the Church of Kapnikarea, a small Byzantine gem with an unexpectedly powerful presence. Stepping inside, I felt the same sense of awe I saw mirrored on the faces around me where centuries of faithful worshippers have passed through these doors, and their devotion lingers in every candlelit corner. Despite its modest size, the church is filled with richly detailed Byzantine paintings and icons, creating an atmosphere that’s both intimate and timeless.
The dome is adorned with the classic image of Christ, and behind the altar (below right) stands Mary holding the baby Jesus. In the lower left, you can see prayer candles arranged in the traditional style seen in Greek Orthodox churches across the country.
The next location was a visit to the Mitropolis, Athens’ grand cathedral. The Mitropolis serves as the epicenter of the Orthodox Greek faith, akin in importance to the Vatican for Roman Catholics. From the outside, the building appears deceptively simple, but inside it reveals the rich splendor of Byzantine-style paintings, architectural features, and mosaics, many dating back to 1842.
The faithful and tourists alike were present throughout the cathedral
The view toward the main altar (left) was breathtaking, making it easy to understand why so many gather here to worship.
Above: Near the main doors, you can see the prayer candles, a traditional feature in Greek Orthodox churches.
By the time I stopped for lunch at Diogenes near the walk's Location 12 (the Lysicrates Monument and Square), I was ravenous. This streetside restaurant with quiet tables offered the perfect respite after a morning of walking. I savored stuffed zucchini with lemon sauce (so delicious, I still dream about it) while soaking in the lively ambiance of locals and tourists speaking a multitude of languages around me. The leisurely lunch was just what I needed to recharge before heading on to the National Archaeological Museum.
Above: A few memorable faces I encountered while strolling through Athens.
Below Left: A gelato stop...there is always room for one more scoop, and I never pass up the chance to try a new flavor!
Below Right: Besides avoiding olive pollen, I love traveling during the olive harvest as it makes the trees so pretty.
I knew I’d want more time to linger at this incredible museum than the official tour allowed, and I happily spent three to four hours wandering its halls—so much so that I had to skip the Byzantine and Christian Museum I had also planned to see.
Having read the classics that are so deeply woven into Greek culture as part of my Great Books education, it was a delight to see them come to life before my eyes. The mask of Agamemnon, ancient burial items, intricately painted pottery, the evolution of language and text, and the progression of sculpture techniques all leapt from the pages of my imagination into tangible history. Every corner offered a connection to the past, a sense of walking alongside the people who first shaped these stories, and a quiet thrill of recognition and wonder.
The Mask of Agamemnon, 1550 BC
Items from Mycenaean Grave Circle A, 1550 BC
House of the Warrior Krater on which you can see a woman waving goodbye to Mycenaean soldiers
Above: The progression of Greek sculpture from left to right: Archaic (700-480 BC), Severe (480-460 BC), Classical (460-323 BC), and Hellenistic (323-30 BC)
The Greek vision of a sphynx...quite the contrast to ancient Egypt's!
Artemision Bronze (Zeus or Poseidon)
What did he hold in his back hand? A thunderbolt? A trident? Either way, this bronze masterpiece is striking.
Right: The Funeral Steles filled a room, all from the 5th Century BC. This one stood out as particularly touching. It depicts a woman who died in childbirth. Her baby reaches out for her, held by a servant, but never to reach his or her mother who has moved on from this earth.
Below: Athena in detailed splendor.
Artemision Jockey (above, circa 140 BC). This remarkable bronze was created using the “lost wax” technique: a clay statue was first covered in wax, which was then shaped and coated with another layer of clay. Molten bronze was poured into the cavity left by the melted wax, and once cooled, the mold was broken to reveal a hollow bronze statue. Even frozen in time, I could sense the dynamic movement captured in this incredible work of art.
The next room contained several masterpieces: the Bronze Statue of a Youth (340-330 BC), a Hellenistic Grave Relief of a Horse (late 4th Century BC) with a boy struggling to hold its bridle, and Poseidon (125-100 BC).
Sleeping Maenad ( c. 120 AD)
A quick dinner at the hotel’s rooftop bar turned into an unexpected lesson in Greek culture as the Parthenon glowed majestically in the evening light. From my perch above the city, I watched a birthday celebration unfold—a lively gathering where the guest of honor foots the bill, a charming contrast to the way birthdays are typically celebrated back home in the U.S. It was a small but vivid glimpse into daily life here; the kind of moment that makes travel feel like a window into another world.
Left: The bartender making my Aperol Spritz
Bottom: A healthy salad and desert of Greek yogurt with tart cherries were the perfect way to end dinner with a shimmering view of the Parthenon from the hotel's rooftop bar
My first breathtaking view of the Parthenon, conveniently from the hotel's rooftop