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Venice Day 3: Island Hopping
Venice Day 3: Island Hopping
Burano
Burano
Loving any chance to slip away from the crowds and wander quieter canals, I hopped on a vaporetto and headed to two of the smaller lagoon islands. I began in Burano, famous for its lace making and slower pace of life. The brightly painted homes and shops are a photographer's delight, especially with those reflections Stefano pointed out the previous day.
Pro Tip: A multi-day vaporetto pass is not only a great way to save some money, but also helps you avoid spending precious time purchasing tickets throughout your Venetian stay.
Quickly after departing from the vaporetto, the charm of this island quickly shines and its cheery, brightly colored buildings left me feeling uplifted in turn
Below left: The love of gardening is obvious at this Burano home; Below right: Laundry day
Above: The reflections are just as lovely and engaging as the buildings themselves
Below: I found a little café where I ordered an Italian hot chocolate and a pastry, savoring both in a hidden courtyard garden tucked behind the shop.
Above: Each doorway unveiled new discoveries and other visitors
While I had planned to stay only an hour, the brightly colored houses reflecting in the canals, the perfect temperature with a soft breeze, and the unexpectedly absorbing Lace Museum (Museo de Merletto) kept me there for far longer. As I slowly explored the intricate hand-stitched masterpieces, it was easy to understand why Burano lace was so coveted for centuries.
Left: Venetian Gross Point Lace, 17th Century
Below left: Leaf-Work Venice Point 17th Century and Burano Lace Handkerchief Late 19th Century; Below right: Wedding Veil, 2020
Feeling refreshed, I set out to find lace for a friend who wanted pieces to use as texture in her pottery after asking me to not be horrified by her intended use. After visiting several shops, I found two pieces within her budget after finding a shopkeeper that I felt would not be upset by the intended use. When I explained what they were for, the shopkeeper lit up and pointed me toward several perfect options saying she hoped to see the final result. My friend was delighted when I sent photos, already imagining the plates and other creations she would make. I picked up a lace Christmas ornament and two doilies for myself before continuing on to my next stop: Murano.
A Burano lace maker patiently demonstrated her craft, showing visitors how each delicate knot is stitched by hand. Using a round pillow, needle, and thread, she builds the intricate design around a fine mesh and, finally, carefully cutting it away only after the pattern is complete. Watching the process made it easy to appreciate why this lace has been treasured for centuries.
Murano
Murano
Murano is slightly larger than Burano, but it shares the same charm—this time amplified by the excitement of glowing furnaces and molten glass being stretched and shaped into every conceivable form. In 1291, all Venetian glassmakers were required to move their workshops to Murano to avoid potentially setting the city on fire (the furnaces were a high liability for the mostly wooden buildings of that era). While they experienced a number of benefits including immunity from prosecution by the Venetian state, being allowed to wear swords, and becoming very affluent, it came with a price: they were not allowed to leave the Republic. Granted, this did not stop a few of the risk takers who took their craft to other countries including England and the Netherlands.
Making my way through the various shops along the canals, glassmakers brightened when I mentioned I had lived in the Seattle area and that a high school friend had studied with Dale Chihuly. One of them exclaimed, “Oh, we love people from Seattle! He studied and displays his work right across the canal!” while pointing to a gallery only about fifteen yards away. I was ensured to receive a little extra attention from the glassmaker's mother who ran the day-to-day operations while her son created works of art. I bought a small glass bird there that now sits in my office, a cheerful reminder of my time here. Many smaller shops offer demonstrations tied to items you purchase, a wonderful way to keep their stock flowing, and I loved watching how the glassmaker brought my little bird to life. What an experience!
I also visited the Glass Museum (Museo del Vetro) wandering through a kaleidoscope of creativity found throughout the island. The audio guide—accessed through a museum app that let me use my own earbuds instead of pressing a bulky handset to my ear—made the visit even more enjoyable. I appreciated learning how glassmaking evolved over the centuries, especially the practical decision to relocate the industry to an island far enough from Venice to prevent catastrophic fires. The chandeliers from the 1867 Paris World’s Fair were breathtaking, but so were the simpler bottles, delicate buttons (including one bearing Napoleon’s profile), jewelry, mirrors, and more.
On my way back to the vaporetto, I picked up a Murano glass Christmas ornament to add to my collection as a reminder of my travels and saw others enjoying the slower pace of this island.
Left: Visitors take refuge from the warmth of the day in the shade of the main street's trees in Murano while others wander the canals alongside waterside restaurant tables
Below: A view I saw over and over through doorways as other tourists could not help but stare out at the various boats passing by
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