In typical fashion, we meet everyone before the first group dinner to introduce ourselves, go over group rules, and meet our tour guide. Even before the official meet-and-greet began, I met another tour member who shares my first name. We quickly decided to team up as buddy check partners and I could not have asked for a better one. She turned out to be such a delightful travel companion. Soon after, we met our guide, Angelos Kokkaliaris, who set the tone for the trip with an engaging overview of Greece and what to expect in the days ahead.
After our first meet-up, we strolled together to Mythos, a cozy restaurant just a short walk from the Parthenon. Dinner was mostly served family style with us all jumping in quickly as seasoned Rick Steves travelers. A sweet pastry, salad, and moussaka with a local red wine were a lovely dinner. Another typical Greek desert of Greek yogurt with honey was a fantastic way to end this first group dinner. It was a perfect first evening—good food, good company, and that magical Athenian ambiance.
The Acropolis Museum at night with the iconic Parthenon reflected on the upper left windows
Ah, the Parthenon! What can you say that has not been said over the past 2,500 years? Still, nothing prepares you for the feeling of walking up to this ancient masterpiece. The site was buzzing with visitors (you will spot a few I could not quite crop out in the photos below), but the crowds only highlight its enduring pull as a place that has been a pagan temple, a Christian church, and now a universal symbol of democracy. Around us, a mix of languages filled the air as we admired the grandeur of the Parthenon, the graceful Erechtheion, the monumental Propylaea, and the Theater of Dionysus below. Our local guide, Faye Gergiou—affectionately known as Mama Faye—brought the site vividly to life with stories and insight. I could have easily lingered there for hours, but the nearby Acropolis Museum, home to so many of the site’s treasures, was waiting to be explored.
Petite but unstoppable, Mama Faye combines encyclopedic knowledge, endless energy, and a sense of humor that can touch every traveler, drawing smiles and the occasional laughter to the point of tears.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus (161 AD) could hold up to 5,000 spectators and was built during the Roman era. Remarkably, it is still used for performances today. Unlike a traditional theater, an Odeon was primarily designed for music; odes and other musical performances rather than dramatic plays.
Quite the site for Christians: Mars Hill where Paul preached the Gospel to the Athenians
Though the line looks long, we were among the first to enter for the day—well ahead of the cruise ships and massive tour groups that would arrive later. It moved fairly quickly, and soon we were standing before the Parthenon for the first time (see above). I can only imagine that even in its heyday, as a temple dedicated to Athena, there were lines of visitors just as eager to glimpse its splendor.
The Erechtheion and its iconic Porch of the Caryatids are a highlight of the Acropolis. What you see here are faithful copies—five of the original statues now reside in the Acropolis Museum, shielded from the elements and allowing visitors to admire their intricate beauty up close.
The East End served as the original entrance to the temple, with the birth of Athena depicted in its triangular pediment. I was grateful for the lighter crowds on this far side of the Acropolis, which made it easier to take in the details. You can also see the final remnants of the inner scaffolding 9in place for 30 years) being removed from this now-pristine, iconic landmark.
Above: Greetings from the Erechtheion!
Below: The Athens cityscape from the Parthenon Greek flag viewpoint
Details above the East End (the original temple entrance)
Exiting through the Propylaea and enjoying the awe and wonder of those entering
After exploring the Acropolis, Mama Faye led us to the Acropolis Museum, a bright, modern space that feels both peaceful and awe-inspiring. Inside, we saw some of the original marbles that Lord Elgin left behind, along with beautifully preserved sculptures and fragments that have survived thousands of years. It was moving to see these ancient works so close, knowing they once stood high on the Acropolis itself. The museum was created to protect these priceless artifacts from the elements—and to keep the story of Greece’s golden age alive for generations to come.
Some of the delicately detailed stone carvings in the museum. I particularly enjoyed the adorable owl.
Above: Part of the Hekatompedos Pediment with some of the original paints still present
Below: The Parthenon was originally pained in vibrant colors. These minerals are some of those that we know were used.
The tour group looking at the Caryatids for the first time. They are strikingly beautiful and I could have easily stayed here to look at them for quite some time.
The original Caryatids from the Erechtheion
The top level of the museum features the collection of the original Parthenon structures, laid out as they were on the Parthenon originally. The dimensions are exactly the same as well (228 by 101 feet). Seeing the pediments up close, it is easy to see why the Greek people wish for the Elgin marbles to be returned to fill in the spaces that you can see are filled with bright stone replicas.
Part of the original pediment marbles that remained in Greece
Above: Parthenon marbles
Left: South Mesothope 1
A burrata salad paired with a small pot of Greek mountain tea was just what I needed—light, fresh, and perfect for recharging over lunch with new friends at the museum café
Walking through the Ancient Agora of Athens, in the footsteps of Plato and Aristotle, Paul the Apostle, and countless others, was a dream come true. It was not until I stood on that very ground that I realized Plato and Confucius were alive at the same time; a mind-blowing realization that connected two ancient worlds in my mind. I wandered the Agora’s paths with another tour member, taking in not just the ruins but the whole atmosphere with its sunlit stones, the scattered statues and artifacts, the small Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles, and the sweeping views of the Acropolis above. It is a place where history feels incredibly alive, echoing with the voices of philosophers, traders, and travelers from millennia ago.
Below: Temple of Hephaistos (415 BC) is half the size of the Parthenon, but is better preserved
Above: Ancient Agora with the Stoa of Attalos in the background and the Parthenon atop of the hill on the right.
Below (L to R): Personification of the Odyssey and Iliad, Emperor Antonius Pius, Emperor Hadrian (known for his famous EnglEnglish wall)
The view of the Temple of Hephaistos from the Stoa of Attalos is a photographer’s dream. I was in awe of the well-preserved columns, intricate details, and the way the sunlight played across this ancient structure.
Black-Figured Column Krater
Agora Museum
Socrates meets Confucius in this art installation the Athenians loved so much it had become a permanent part of the Ancient Agora grounds
The Church of the Holy Apostles (c. 1000 AD) was constructed during the Byzantine Empire atop a former pagan religious site. It honors St. Paul, who preached the Gospel in the nearby Agora, converting many from paganism to Christianity.
Left: We grabbed a cool drink at a nearby café, giving us a chance to get to know each other a bit better.
Above: Afterward, we headed off to have custom sandals made. Mine were cobbled together right before my eyes. It was a fun, uniquely Greek souvenir, and one that will bring back memories of this trip every time I slip them on.
Pro Tip: Make sure you have at least 90 minutes for your sandals to be made!
Below: We then went for dinner in Plaka, finding a restaurant to accommodate the vegetarian in our group. I quite enjoyed the lamb souvlaki.