We set off after another glorious morning, enjoying breakfast on the hotel’s patio as the sunrise spilled across the sea—not a bad way to start the day! Our destination was Mystras, renowned for its remarkably preserved Byzantine churches perched on the hillside above Sparta. The cathedral stands out with vibrant frescoes and layered history, offering a vivid window into centuries of devotion. As I wandered through the dim interior, I reflected on the countless worshippers who had stood in that very space before me—an unbroken thread of faith connecting past and present. With the steep, rain-slicked paths, our guides wisely decided to skip the upper town and Crusader castle; even the gentler routes proved a bit treacherous after the downpour.
Pro Tip: Consider taking a pair of slip-resistant shoes on your shoulder season trips!
As the rain shower began (above), we dashed for cover under the large tree to the right. After a few minutes of the downpour, we decided to run to a nearby building and wait it out (below), while our local guide continued to bring ancient Mystras vividly to life.
The Church of St. Dimitrios has a lovely exterior of cobbled stones from various eras, but its unexpectedly detailed Byzantine frescoes and carved stonework were an unexpectedly pleasant surprise.
Above: The dome's fresco of Christ
Below: The classic symbol of the Byzantine Church: a double headed eagle
The High Altar
Prayer candles near the entrance are a staple of any Greek Orthodox church and always consisting of a thin, tall candle like these seen here:
Inside Peribleptos Monastery, our tour group absorbed the rich history and intricate details of this remarkable site, guided by stories that brought the centuries-old monastery vividly to life.
The frescoes of the monastery vividly brought to mind the first time I learned the Bible stories they depict: the Birth of Jesus, the woman at the well, Jesus’ first miracle of turning water into wine, healing the blind man, raising Lazarus from the dead, and more.
The work at Mystras continues with the excavation still occurring today
We stopped for lunch in Sparta, where we enjoyed a spread of traditional Greek dishes and the easy fellowship that always seems to form when travelers gather around a table. Afterward, we made the obligatory and thoroughly enjoyable pilgrimage to the famous statue of King Leonidas.
He stands in bronze defiance, commemorating his legendary last stand with 300 Spartans against the Persian army at the Battle of Thermopylae. (I would be remiss not to note that every Greek we met said, "Terrible movie...terrible movie!" with a mournful shake of the head when the movie 300 is mentioned due to its inaccuracies). In all likelihood, the Spartans were strong, but lanky as carrying the heavy muscles displayed in the movie would be terribly inefficient when traveling by foot for miles on end.
Standing in the shadow of the mountains that cradle modern Sparta, it is easy to understand why the ancient Spartans were famed for their strength and endurance. Life here demanded it. This rugged terrain shaped a people who could trek long distances to the Ancient Olympics or march out to confront neighboring foes — a landscape where toughness was not a choice but a way of life.
In the afternoon, we traded history for a bit of indulgence with a wine tasting at a local winery. Coming from wine country, I was especially curious to compare. While I did not care for the local varietal featured in three of the four wines (my palate insists a few grapes always taste like vinegar!), it was still a fun experience. I sent a quick text to my winemaker cousin back home who was in the midst of the annual harvest to share my experience. I still preferred my area's, but loved the rest at various restaurants throughout the trip. After wine tasting, we were off to the elegant harbor town of Nafplio.