Old Samothraki

Travels in Greece and Turkey

On the 3rd of April, we sailed with a brisk breeze; the harbour and the channel were covered with many ships of war and merchantmen, whilst in all directions

"Glanced many a light caique along the foam."

On the 4th, we lay-to off Sultan Kalaahsi to show our firman, and Mr. Lander, our consul, procured for us from Muhammed Raif Pasha, governor of the province, a letter to the Agha of Samendrek, an island which we were proceeding to visit. At night we anchored near the battery above Sahil Baher. Next morning we continued our course, and leaving Imbro on the left, made the southern point of Samendrek, salubrious; but there is neither civilisation nor cultivation.

The Europeans examined all the particulars of the country, and wrote some books describing it. Since then all nations have contributed to its population and improvement, and it has become another and a New World, {Yeni dooniah,)" —the name by which America is known.

THE ANCIENT Samothrace which on this side is rocky and steep, the mountain rising perpendicularly from the waves. Running along the eastern coast, the island presented itself in a softer aspect of beauty; from the rocky base of the lofty and darkly-frowning Savus, whose snowy summit, elevated about six thousand two hundred feet above the sea, and only for short and transient periods visible through the thick masses of clouds which enveloped it, commenced a belt of rich alluvial soil, intersected by many water-courses, filled by the melted snow and by the late heavy rain-water, which rushed in foaming and picturesque cascades down the steep declivities of the mountains.

This land was covered by luxuriant turf, on which numerous flocks were feeding, and by a thick growth of the ilex, the chesnut, the olive, the myrtle, and several other trees, some of which fringed the mountain itself, far up in the region of snow. In one part, near the summit, I observed a lofty, dark, isolated rock rising through the snow, and resembling the well-known " Mulcts" on Mont Blanc.

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by Dr Stamatis Zogaris, and is reproduced here with permission. It originally appeared in the Athens Nature Journal.

Passing by some old watch-towers, we came in sight of a village standing some way inland, and on the summit of the alluvial formation. We anchored off it in ten fathoms.

"Inde levi vento Zerynthia littora nacta,

Threiciam tetigit fessa carina Samon."

Ov.

The coast continued in the same direction for about three miles further, gradually decreasing in height till it finished in a long low spit, forming the northern extremity of the island.

Close off this point there is, however, from eight to twelve fathoms of water.

We landed on a stony beach composed of fragments of grey granite and green limestone; and on shore meeting with one or two shepherds, they acted as our guides to the village. The land at first was low and planted with vines, but we soon entered the woody region—the narrow and rugged path running up the course of a small but impetuous torrent, and occasionally crossing its waters. In front, through occasional breaks in the wood, we caught views of the rocky and snow-capped peaks of Mount St. George.

After a delightful walk of three miles, we reached the village, built on the declivity, and defended by a rocky perpendicular mass, on which stand the ruined walls and towers of a castle. This position completely commands the pass which leads from the sea to the village. We presented our letter from the pasha of the Dardanelles to Ibrahim Agha, governor of Samendrek, and the only Turk resident on the island.

After smoking sundry pipes with him in his miserable residence, and conversing much about the sultan, the Inglees, the Franzees, the Moskus, and Mehemmed Ali, we retired to a cottage which he had destined for our use. This we found clean and comfortable, and the owners civil and obliging, though they were Greeks.

As Lent was not concluded, we fared solely upon eggs, salt fish, olives, and cheese ; with the addition, however, of good wine, and not very bad raki. After a prolonged conversation with the family and many other of the inhabitants respecting the productions, history, and antiquities of the island, we spread some carpets and mats round the fire, and forming a circle with the landlord and two or three other villagers, soon fell asleep. The lady of the house and four children turned into a recess formed in the side of one of the walls.

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by the site author.

Early next morning, and in defiance of a high wind and a heavy rain, we sallied forth and commenced making our researches for antiquities. We first ascended to the ruined citadel —which dates only from the middle ages. If a more ancient one ever existed, all traces of it have disappeared. We observed two inscriptions on marble, each having also a coarsely executed eagle, a coat of arms, and a monogram, or cipher One of these inscriptions bears the date of 1431—in the reign of Murad the Great. A few fragments of marble columns are also seen scattered about, and there is no doubt that one or more temples must at some period have existed here or in the immediate vicinity, for every house in the village, (which may contain about two hundred,) has on its roof part of a white marble column, which the inhabitants use for the purpose of rolling their roofs, which are flat, and formed of stone broken into very small pieces and cemented together with clay.

Our chief endeavours were of course directed towards obtaining some information respecting the Zerynthian cave

None of the inhabitants, however, seemed to know of any that was at all distinguished from others, either by superior size, by sculpture or inscriptions, or by any other peculiarity. We therefore determined to visit them all, even some which were said to be far up in the region of snow; and for this purpose, a shepherd who was perfectly well acquainted with every part of the island, was sent for, to act as our guide on the following morning.

That which was most likely to prove the object of our inquiries, we were told, was one at five miles to the south of the village; but that this might more easily be reached from the sea, by landing at a small scala formed by the soil and stones washed down by the torrent, and flanked on each side by the high and perpendicular rocks we had observed on first approaching the island. From this landing-place, the cave was said to be distant one hour. It was, however, fated that we should not visit it. In the meanwhile we proceeded to inspect some ruins about four miles to the south-east, and near the sea.

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by the site author.

This walk led us through one of the prettiest and wildest scenes I ever remember to have seen. The ground was intersected in a variety of directions by mountain torrents, rushing impetuously along their deep and rugged beds, overshadowed by fantastic rocks and beautiful large trees, on whose leaves the rain-drops glittered like the sparkling of a bright scimiter, and whose branches were festooned together by aged vines of great size, together with a variety of other creepers. On each side of these ravines rose swelling hills covered with a thick growth of ilex, &c.; and towering high above these, were the rocky and dark masses of the mountain, whose summits were lost in the clouds. At times we also caught views of the sea through the trees and long vistas formed by the different ravines.

After an hour and a quarter's walk we suddenly came upon a magnificent Cyclopean wall, embosomed in the forest, and on whose summit and sides grew some very large ilexes, the growth of ages. The ancient name of the town which this wall encircled is not known; at the present day the site is simply known to the Turks as Eski Shehr, and to the Greeks as Palaeopolis, both signifying " the ancient city." The wall is ten feet in thickness, and in several parts still measures twenty-five feet in height; the stones present a tolerably level surface, but are not joined by cement. The largest I observed measured five feet one inch in length, by four feet nine inches in height.

There are two gates nine feet wide, with flanking projections; the sides of these entrances are formed of regular square-cut stones, and the angles themselves are finished off" by perpendicular cut lines, or a sort of grooves, on each side. In all directions around are seen the foundations of houses constructed of very large stones. On the coast, at the foot of these ruins, are the traces of a port, perhaps the Portus Demetrii, at whose entrance, according to Servius, stood the statues of Castor and Pollux. The town of course is of a far remoter era than the one in which lived " the destroyer of cities."

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken the site author.

On the heights overlooking the sea are two towers, one smaller than the other, and both built with the remains of more ancient edifices, among which are many pieces of sculptured marble.* In another part, on the summit of a torrent's bank, is a square construction, formed of regular square stones, which appears to have formed the basement of a temple, as fragments of fluted Corinthian capitals, cornices, &c. are seen scattered immediately around. It contains a large vaulted chamber, to which access is obtained by an arched gate, with the keystone, but all the stones forming the arch are placed diagonally. We also found many thin slabs of various marbles with which the buildings had been faced.

Our guide told us, that a short time before, he had seen near the spot a fragment of a Greek inscription, containing the name Alexander. We could not, however, find it, but saw in the village another, forming the hearth of a cafe. As it was Sunday the shop was full of the inhabitants drinking coffee, so that the kawehji could not remove his fire to enable me to copy it, which, however, he told me I might do the next morning. It was in Greek, and brought from the angle of the lesser tower at Eskishehr.*

Great was my sorrow when from an eminence free from trees, we found that the wind had completely shifted,and was blowing a hurricane right on that part of the coast off which the yacht was anchored. We also observed that the vessel was pitching most violently, with every prospect of driving from her anchors and going on shore. We ought, however, to have been under no apprehensions, for are we not told that all who sacrificed to the Kabiri had nothing to fear from the dangers of the sea and Orpheus, in his hymns, mentions these gods as Curetes, and calls them "the averters of dangers from sailors.'"

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by the site author.

It was, nevertheless, determined to return on board, and stand out to sea. A signal was made from the beach for the boat, which, however, could not come close in on account of the very great surf; we were in consequence obliged to wade before we could reach it. Though prepared to sail at a moment's notice, we still lingered in the hope that the wind would calm and we should again be enabled to land. In the night, however, the gale increased so much, that it became no longer prudent to remain off this lee-shore; by daylight, therefore, we weighed anchor and made sail. The wind was favourable, and the huge waves assisted in driving us rapidly along;

"Biancheggian l'acque di Canute spume,

E rotte dietro mormorar le senti."

We soon after anchored under the lee of Tenedos, there to brood over the ill success of our visit to Samothrace, an island I had been so anxious to explore; and the more so as Sir William Gell, previous to my quitting Naples, had kindly instructed me to what subjects chiefly to direct my attention and observation for the purpose of elucidating the ancient history of the island, as well as that of the religion of which it was the centre.

Samothrace, (Homer simply calls it Samos,) called by the Turks Samendrek, and by the Greeks Samothraki, is about twenty-eight miles in circumference, twenty-three miles from the Thracian coast near Enos, twenty-one from the coast on the north, and twenty-three from Thasos. This island, as I before observed,rises steep and high out of the waves, towering far above all others, and can be seen from a great distance. It was formerly considered the symbol of virile energy. It contains two mountains, known to the ancients by the name of Saus and Mosychlus, though some authors place the latter, which appears to have been a volcano, in Lemnos. In one of these mountains was the Zerynthian cave, where the Kabiri, or Corybantes, were worshipped. The meaning of the name Kabiri is " the powerful," or "great," the ' Dii Magni.' The word is still retained in the Arabic ,U<JI, "the great people," from^x»^, "great." These divinities were Axiokersus, Axiokersa, and Aixerus. Writers, however, differ as to the gods of the Grecian and Roman mythology with which they corresponded. The feasts of the Kabiri were held at night, and were a sort of free-masonic initiations. The candidates were proved by fearful sights, and afterwards crowned. Many of the greatest personages of antiquity were initiated. The Kabirian orgies were peculiar to the Samothracians, but the Eleusinian were derived from them.

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by the site author.

It is supposed that both Olan and Pherecydes, the one the oldest writer of Greek verse, and the other of prose, were natives of Samothrace.

The natives spoke two languages, and it would be of considerable importance to ascertain if any traces of the Thracian still exist; this however, cannot, I fear, be done in the island, as some years back the entire population was either destroyed or exiled. The people, who at present reside on it, speak the common Greek in general use among the islands. I made inquiries, but could discover no peculiar words.

In 1821 the population of Samendrek amounted to three thousand two hundred ; but, during that year, instigated by some turbulent ruffians from Ipsera, they rebelled against the government, and Mubammed Bey Selihtar being sent to appease the insurrection, made some drink of the cup of death, and carried off the rest as prisoners. The houses were also burnt, and the flocks carried off.

Some time after, the island became again inhabited, and prosperity, for a time, prevailed; when parties of christian Arnaoods, in pay of the Greek government, invaded the island, spreading death and desolation around them; and it is only within the last two or three years that the island has been freed from their devastations.

The population amounts, at present, to one thousand persons, who appear contented, though poor, for I was assured that goods to the amount of two purses (ten pounds) would not find a market. They have flocks, and cultivate more barley than is sufficient for home consumption; the surplus, together with a considerable quantity of cheese, they export to Kara-gach in Thrace, and return with salt fish and coarse stuffs. The revenues belong: to the Capudan Pasha, who lets them for seven or eight thousand piastres, (from seventy to eighty pounds.) The sheikh, El Islam, rents them at present. The produce of the land pays one-eighth, and each sheep thirty paras, (three-fourths of a piastre.)

The inhabitants are quite satisfied with the Turkish government, and are far from being anxious to form a part of the kingdom of Greece, knowing that if they did they would have to pay five times as much as they do at present. The eastern side of the island contains pasture ground and wood; on the other side of the cape the land is lower and is under tillage. Fish abound off the coast; but there are no fishermen. In point of bold, and, at the same time, lovely scenery, I know of no place which can compare with Samendrek; and I cannot take leave of it without expressing my sincere hope, that travellers will in future direct their attention to it, and thoroughly explore it. The discovery of the Zerynthian cave, filled as it probably is with curious sculpture and inscriptions, would alone be more than sufficient to reward them for the trouble and hardships they might experience in the undertaking.

Photo Credit: This photograph was taken by the site author.