For my multi-filament 3D printing project, I designed and printed a custom spinner using both PLA and PETG. The body was printed in white PLA, while the top layer featuring the text was printed in blue PETG. The design includes the name of my program, AMLA, along with acknowledgments to Skills Inc. and CPTC, the organizations that helped make it possible. My inspiration came from a military-style keychain I’ve had since childhood, which featured a spinning border that always fascinated me. I decided to recreate that concept with my own twist, combining meaningful elements with a functional and eye-catching design.

To create the spinner, I started by designing a circular platform with a hole in the center. Around that, I added the outer border and a central rod that passes through the hole carefully positioning it so it doesn't touch the platform itself, allowing it to spin freely. I also added stoppers on either side of the rod to prevent the inner part from sliding side to side. Once the design was complete, I used Fusion 360 to create a joint for the moving parts, then sliced the model and prepared it for multi-filament printing. 

One important lesson I learned is that PETG and PLA don’t bond very well when printed together, which can affect the durability of the final part. For stronger, more reliable multi-material prints, I recommend exploring other filament combinations that have better adhesion properties. 

During the printing process, we encountered an issue where the PETG wouldn't adhere properly to the PLA, causing the letters to detach easily. After some research, we discovered that PLA and PETG don’t bond well under standard settings. To solve this, we adjusted several print parameters lowering the fan speed, reducing the feed rate, and increasing the nozzle temperature—to improve adhesion between the two materials. These adjustments made a significant difference and allowed the final print to come out successfully.

Unfortunately, I accidentally broke the part before I had a chance to take a picture, and we didn’t have enough time to reprint it. Despite that, the design worked as intended, and the spinner functioned properly before it broke, proving that the concept and print settings were successful. 

I also created a custom Flash logo from scratch, using the canvas feature in Fusion 360. I started by importing an image of the logo to use as a reference, then carefully traced the entire design in a 2D sketch. Once the sketch was complete, I extruded each section to different heights to give the logo depth and dimension. To finish it off, I filleted the outer edges of the border to create a smoother, more professional look. This project helped me sharpen my sketching and modeling skills while working with layered geometry and clean finishing techniques.

I printed the Flash logo using yellow PLA and red PETG. Since the outer borders of the logo were yellow, I made the entire part yellow by default and only added a few strategic layers of red where needed for the inner details. This approach helped minimize filament changes and reduced time wasted on purging during the multi-filament printing process. It was a good balance between achieving the look I wanted and optimizing the print for efficiency. 

As you can see, the red PETG section had some adhesion issues. This could have been due to not applying enough PETG layers or an incorrect nozzle temperature. I’m not too bummed about it, though every mistake is a valuable learning experience that helps me improve for future prints. 

To prepare the printer, I had to refill the powder. We have two material options: Nylon 12 powder and TPU 90A powder. For my badge, I chose to use nylon for its durability and fine detail. Refilling the printer involves a few careful steps. First, I unlocked the powder storage unit. Then, I poured the nylon powder into the powder cartridge, ensuring i breath none of the powder, then i closed the lid, and placed the cartridge on top of the storage unit. Once everything was aligned, I unlocked the cartridge and watched as the powder flowed into the machine.

In my case, the powder level came close to overflowing, but fortunately, the built-in container prevented any mess. Since the powder flow automatically stops just before reaching the maximum fill line, all I had to do was close the door and the system was ready for printing. It was a good reminder of how important it is to monitor material handling carefully during SLS setup.

After loading the powder, the next step was to preheat the printer, which is essential for ensuring proper sintering and layer adhesion during the print. Once the preheating process was complete, I started the print job. From there, the Fuse 1 took over, building the part layer by layer using the laser to fuse the powder into the final shape. It was exciting to see the setup come together and watch the process that would eventually turn loose powder into a solid, detailed badge. 

After the Fuse Blast, this was the final product clean, detailed, and ready to showcase. I’m very proud of the work I put into designing, printing, and post-processing this badge. It’s a rewarding reminder of both the community it represents and the skills I developed throughout the project. 

For my resin printing project, I designed and printed a custom battery storage unit. The idea came from a simple problem—my family and I were leaving batteries scattered around the house. To help organize them, I created a clean, functional solution. The design is a rectangular dispenser that allows you to drop batteries in through the top by opening the trap door. They slide down and rest on a small lip near the bottom, which you can pull out like a drawer to dispense two battery at a time.

The unit is designed to hold 16 batteries in total: 2 batteries laid sideways across each row, and 8 rows stacked vertically, creating a compact 2x8 configuration. This setup keeps batteries neat, accessible, and easy to manage, while also showing how resin printing can be used to solve everyday problems with custom, practical designs.

Initially, the design felt a bit too plain, so to give it a more personal touch, I decorated the surface with some of my own 3D models small projects I had worked on in my free time. These added both character and visual interest to an otherwise simple utility print. I also included a clear "AA" label on the unit to indicate the battery size and keep things organized. These small details not only made the design more functional but also reflected my personality and creativity.

For my TPU project, I had to design and 3D print a functional object that required flexibility. Initially, I planned to create an Apple Watch band, but I decided instead to design a phone case for my iPhone 15 Plus. I took measurements directly from my phone and added a custom design to make the case more unique and less plain. However, I made a crucial mistake, I didn’t account for the camera dimensions. I used a combination of online specs and physical measurements, but overlooked the size and placement of the camera cutout. Additionally, the case ended up being slightly too narrow. These issues taught me valuable lessons, and next time I’ll be more precise, especially with critical features like the camera hole and overall fit.