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Introduction to Agraharam
The nearly 700 year old agraharam was one of the earliest settlements of the migrating tamil brahmins. The migration was triggered primarily by the frequent Islamic invasions from the north. The Pandya kingdom extended from north of the Godavari river and upto all of South India, what is today's Tamilnadu and Kerala. Kanjeevaram, Madurai and Tanjore saw the highest number of migrations, with learned Brahmins leaving. At Palakkad and other smaller polities across south India, local rulers and zamindars offered them land to build homes. These new settlers became priests, making a living by veda parayanam (Vedic chanting), and over the course of time also became landowners.
"Agram" is apex and "Haaram" is garland. The name originates from the fact that the agraharams have lines of houses on either side of the road and the temple to the village god at the centre, thus resembling a garland around the temple. According to the traditional Hindu practice of architecture and town-planning, an agraharam is held to be two rows of houses running north–south on either side of a road at one end of which would be a temple to Shiva and at the other end, a temple to Vishnu.
Pains of Migration:
The forefathers of every agraharam, when they decided to migrate, would have gone through challenging and painful experience for various reasons:
Emotional Strain
Cultural Adjustment
Loss and Grief
Language Barriers
Financial and Social challenges
Discrimination and Prejudice
Family Separation
However the migrating Brahmins, despite the challenges, used migration to bring new opportunities, personal growth, and a chance for a better life, which helped coping with the initial difficulties.
History, Culture of Agraharam
Legends trace the setting up of Palakkad’s agraharams to a romantic story. It is said that a prince of the royal dynasty of Kochi fell in love with a tribal girl, and was ostracised for his relationship with an outcast. The prince decided to leave his family and settled down in the area to set up the royal dynasty of Palakkad.
The Namboodiri Brahmins in the region, who wanted no part in officiating the ceremonies of an ex-communicated prince, left the area. The Palakkad Kings sought the help of Brahmins living on the other side of the Palakkad Gap, who graciously agreed. As a result, Tamil Brahmins settled down in Palakkad. The areas where they settled grew into gramams or agraharams.
The migrating brahmins brought with them the wealth of Vedas, Carnatic music, Astrology and all the learnings that our seers bequeathed for the good of the world.
The agraharams have also produced outstanding Carnatic musicians such as Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagawathar, MD Ramanathan, Palghat Rama Bhagavatar, Subba Iyer, Palakkad Mani Iyer, Palakkad Raghu etc.
Palghat Brahmins are great at three things is the common refrain - The three C's - Cooking, Carnatic Music, as Civil Servants
Agraharams near Kalpathy which you would want to visit:
Old Kalpathy
New Kalpathy
Chathapuram
Vaidyanathapuram
Govindarajapuram
Kumarapuram
Lakshminarayana puram
Chokkanathapuram
Sekharipuram
Ramanathapuram
Kumarapuram
Sekharipuram
Noorani
Adityapuram
Tarakkad
the list is inclusive
But if you are budgeting your time - I recommend you
don't miss the
Kasi Viswanathar Temple in Kalpathy (walk down to the river - (it is not very clean off season (july to september) but you can wet your feet)
Mukkai Shiva temple (it is amongst the oldest temples here and very scenic facing the river)
Lakshminarayanapuram temple (because it still has a old word charm) and the
Shekharipuram pond area which you should walk around
Subbalakshmi mami's home in Old Kalpathy - she is a sishya of Rama Bhagavatar. Her daughter Sujata has maintained the agraharam home beautifully converting the place into a green garden. The temperature inside the home is a full 5 degrees less than ambient outdoors. Her place is an example of what you can do with an agraharam home and why folks should never dismantle a agaraharam home and rebuild it with concrete.
Govindarajapuram "Kadavu" or padithurai or steps that lead to river. Beautiful place!
Chokkanadhapuram Temple - Meenakshi Sundareswarar - dont miss the big Peepul tree in the front
Local cuisine
If you must try Palakkad brahmins follow their own culture which is unique and unforgettable.Even the menfolk there are good cooks and have no problem managing on their own. The city serves some of the best recipes of the world. Their staple food is rice. Rasam, Sambhar, Koottucurry, Injippuli, and varieties of pickles and “vatthals” are popular here. Madhura dosa, Ada, Vatthal Kozhambu, Kozhukkatta, Sukhiyan etc form the special delicacies of the place.
The special recipes are served on special occasions such as weddings, religious functions and get-togethers.Some of the most popular vegetarian dishes are Olan, Rasakalan, Kalan, Erisseri, varieties of Prathamans, Pulingari, Mulagoshiam and Molaguvellam which is nothing but mulligatawny.
These recipes are mainly cooked with coconut oils and coconut pieces. Rice powder is a common agent of thickening the dishes and Tuvar dal is used normally with all the dishes. Green chilies are commonly used to spice up the recipe.Sweetmeats like Laddu, Boondi, Ravakesari, Mysorepak and Jalebi, as well as snacks like Thatta, Ribbon Pokkavada, Murukku and Cheeda form the favourite food items which are used on all occasions.
Nellikka arachu kalakki, Pavakka pitla, Arachchuvitta sambhar, Rasavangi, Palada pradhaman, Idichchupizhinja payasam, etc are exclusive Palakkadan items, authentic pattar dishes that taste delicious!
Eating places
Ananthan Kadai - aka Lakshmi Coffee Tea Stall - Phone: 99465 58056
Timings: 5.30 am to 9.30 am and 3.30 pm to 6.30 pm approx
Seats: 10 pax
Note: You remove the banana leaf on which you eat and drop it into the bin
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/i6fQeWs32URHN7AX8
Just behind the Old Kalpathy Lakshminarayanan Temple - My first choice for simple breakfast - Family run - always clean and wearing Bhasma - Shop opens at 5.30am. Try the Sevai, Idly, fresh Sambar and Filter Kapi first thing in the morning. They make a fixed quantity of food only. Lunch starts at 9am !! and evening Dosa Roast is a big hit along with Upma. When you are there, contribute money and they will use it to give free breakfast and lunch for the money you donate.
Hotel Sri Bhavan - Inside Old Kalpathy
Timings: 7.00 am to 9.00 pm
Seats: 70-100 pax
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/NVK9KHaMNQJsXXYCA
Started off as a small hole in wall shop, now a larger place right on the highway. Standard fare like your Adyar Ananda Bhavan. Good if you have a large group and in a hurry
Taste of Kalpathy - Inside New Kalpathy
Timings: 7.00 am to 9.00 pm
Seats: 30 pax
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/1GifNF6wDNHNhML66
It was a great place to eat out a year ago. I have felt that they have become patchy in service and taste when business flourished. I have been trying them more than a few times just to see if I made a mistake - and NO. Evening Vada is cold, ditto the Ela Adai with too much poornam and very thin crust. Dosa with too much fermented dough. Poor sambar that is thickened with additives. Runny chutney. I hope they improve. They have a second branch just after the pudiya palam, but I have not tried that place.
Hotel Hariharaputra - In the Town area
Timings: 8.00am to 8.00 pm
Seats: 30 pax
Note: You remove the banana leaf on which you eat and drop it into the bin
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/TxkLqF9UjhyKcBHA9
Right on the market place. When you have finished purchasing stuff at Kalpaka metal or Pooja store you must try lunch here. Be there at 12 noon. Hot lunch with Payasam of the day (extra cost like the curd). Simple fare. You will be given second servings of kootu, poriyal. Ask for buttermilk when you finish your meal. Tip the guy / girl. Buy the savories and sweets you will find in the show glass. You will not regret it.
Hotel Kapilavasthu - In the Town area
Timings: 8.00am to 9.00 pm
Seats: 50 pax
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ynsHQmQ7VgSws5tUA
Near the KSRTC bus stand and less than a Kilometer from the Nurani Gramam, the place was my staple when I was constructing my home near Kalpathy. I stayed in the well appointed rooms. Puttu Kadala, Dosa, Lunch all good. Ask for Boiled rice if you like it for lunch.
Zomato is available for home delivery - Download the app - I recommend you choose Hariharapura for your food if you look for variety.
Other Local fare - unique to Palakkad Agraharams
Vadams and Pickles
"Iyers delicious food products" in LN Puram. I buy all my vadams and pickles from them. They also have seasonal Chakka Vizhudhu which you can stock up on for making Prathaman.
Vijayalakshmi Stores - opposite Kalpathy Shiva temple - stocks well all the vadams, vatthals etc
Pickles
Achaar Maami's Pickle shop (youtube made her famous!) - in New Kalpathy
Sweets and Savories:
Kalpathy Sweets - You can ask for coconut oil murukku which is ok. You can also try the Poruviralangai urundai which has a hint of chukku (dry ginger)
Hariharaputra hotel - It is famous for delicious stuff - pick up when you are there for the afternoon sadhya or evening snacks.
There are other places in Nurani but I recommend you try these.
Chips:
Though my favorite is always A1 from coimbatore for the thin slice, Oottupura Hot Chips near the Kalpathy Shiva temple delivers hot chips in the evening.
All in one stores / Mini mart
Standard Store in Kalpathy - if you need to donate oil, thiri, camphor, or buy provisions - this is the place. There are two stores with the same name run by brothers. Sanil's is near the Old Kalpathy temple and Murali's is near the Kalpathy Shiva temple junction
AtoZ supermarket - Provisions, vegetables, packed food, stationery - good sized store and efficient
Mom's Supermarket - just at the edge of LN puram - nearly as efficient as AtoZ store
Hospitals
SAI HOSPITAL OLAVAKKODE - 04912558525 - open 24 hrs
Thangam Hospital of PMRC - 04912515718
Government Medical College Hospital - 04912974125
Rajiv Gandhi Co-operative Multispeciality Hospital - 04912509000
In case of an extreme emergency you can call Mr Mahesh Trustee Old Kalpathy Lakshminarayana perumal temple - +91 94478 39279
Transportation
CAR - Suresh - 99953 19695
CAR - MIT - 97441 48039
CAR - MANIKANTAN - 97457 70428
CAR - RAFI(INTERNATIONAL) - 97441 48039
AUTO - Rajan - 62380 26232
AUTO - Dinesh - 90743 19414
AUTO - Ramaswamy - 80894 04838
Car charges 2500 Rs for coimbatore railway station pickup or drop and upto 3000 Rs for coimbatore airport. Else you can fix up for 17 Rs a kilometer for long haul. Always choose round trips because you end up paying for both ways.
There are one way taxis available and check with me if you need any. They are available for example Palakkad-Bangalore, Palakkad-Chennai routes more easily than other routes.
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