Kaki (Oyster) X Eroticism

Kaki (Oyster) and Eroticism

Written in 2022

Today, I had Kakifurai for lunch, which inspired me to come up with an idea to write a piece about oysters and eroticism. But before that, I shall explain what Kakifurai is to non-Japanese readers:

Kakifurai is a type of fried food in Japan. "Kaki" means oysters. "Furai" means deep-fried, and so it's deep-fried oysters that I'm talking about here. The origins of this dish are a bit obscure. Most resources said that it was invented in the late decades of the Meiji period, known as the time when Japan developed a lot of its yōshoku (Japanese Western-style) cuisine. It is also often mentioned that kaki fry is a dish that appeared for the first time on Rengatei's menu. Rengatei is an old yōshoku (Western food) restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo (running since 1895 and is still open!). At that time, the chef was experimentally frying various ingredients, including oysters and tada! Kakifurai was born.

While Kakifurai is a popular food in Japan, fried oysters are not common in Europe because oysters are generally eaten raw; in ancient times, the Greeks and Romans were remarkably fond of oysters and ate them at the beginning of a banquet. The poet Ausonius described the taste of Médoc oysters as 

"...full fat and snowy white, and with their sweet juice most delicately mingle some flavor of the sea touched with a fine taste of salt." (Dalby, 2003: 246)

The shape of the oyster inevitably makes us think of female genitalia, which we find erotic. Some people associate oysters with sex when they hear the word "oyster" because oysters are said to be good for increasing sexual energy. The zinc in oysters stimulates dopamine secretion, which increases sexual desire. Thus, it may not be wrong to call oysters an erotic food!

The connection between the oyster and eroticism can be found in many parts of the world. For example, in Sumerian, Babylonian, Egyptian, Chinese, Tibetan, and Hindu civilizations, the oyster symbolizes fertility, femininity, prosperity, reincarnation, and protection from the evil eye (Akdeniz 343). 

In Greek mythology, the oyster's shell is the shelter that protects love (in other words, Aphrodite). The connection between the oyster and love is explained with an alternative symbolism: the edible part of the oyster is secured tightly by the shells, and the fact that it is so difficult to open the shells of the oyster symbolizes the power of love. Love is, just like the succulent mollusk inside the oyster, challenging to reach and thus requires effort. Only the ones who give that effort and patiently overcome hardship are worthy of finding love (Malaguzzi, 2008: 170).

17th-century Dutch painters employed many "Feast of the God" themes. Many paintings include mostly naked or half-naked gods, nymphs, satires, and mortals gathered in an open space and feasting. Gods are accompanied by music, wine, and exotic food, and the oyster is an essential part of these scenes, with scattered shells all over the ground (Akdeniz 353).

The Protestant Reformation further changed the painting scene, adding oysters into daily life stages. The expression of people eating oysters, drinking wine, and flirting excessively joyfully was used as metaphors for luxury, overconsumption,  and the denial of the divine world. Jan Steen’s “The Woman Who is Eating Oyster” is an excellent example. The pretty prostitute in the center of this piece, while sprinkling salt on the oyster on her left hand, gives the audience a coy smile. She sprinkles salt on the food of love to make her offer even spicer. The way she looks at us and smiles are interpreted as an invitation to the viewer/audience to join her in sampling this tasty seafood with its aphrodisiac effects. But the oysters here are a metaphor for reminding us of the loss of the spiritual realm of humanity. 

As shown above, oysters symbolize eroticism, sexuality, fertility, love, wealth, and luxury. This explains why oysters are crucial in our stomachs, minds, and spirits.

References:

• Akdeniz, Define. "Oyster Symbolism in the Art of Painting." Vol. 4, No. 3, 2017, pp. 339-54.

• Malaguzzi, S. Food and Feasting in Art (İtalyanca’dan İngilizce’ye çev.: J. Paul Getty Trust), California: Getty Publications. 2008.

• Dalby, A. Food in the Ancient World from A-Z. London: Routledge. 2003.