Curly hair stylers

Picking the stylers that meet our styling goals

Healthy, hydrated hair comes from consistent and proper shampooing, detangling, and conditioning and is maintained with water soluable stylers. Stylers that are not water soluble will interrupt the hydration process in our hair and will require harsh stripping to remove.

We must remember that volume and definition are opposites- the hair must clump together to create definition, which may leave us with slightly crunchy, flat hair on day one, but as the week unfolds we will gain volume. We must also understand that volume can not come without frizz.

If your goal is for fluffy, soft, voluminous hair on day one, go ahead and opt for lower holding products such as foam. These volume sets will not last as long and can mean more frequent wash days.

If your goal is definition and longevity, We must forgo volume initially and opt for stronger holding products such as gels. Don't be afraid of a firm cast, that crunchiness will soften as you sleep on it, the wind blows, and you touch it. A good product should not fake when the cast is broken. If you find yours does, make sure to rinse your conditioner completely or try different product combinations as your products may not play well together.

Which types of products will give me juicy curls?

You will find that there are no leave ins, oils, or creams listed in this guide. These types of products will reduce the hold of your set, causing frizz, a lack of longevity, and often buildup that dries out your hair. We will instead opt for botanical gels and water soluble foams.

Foams: Facilitate volume and have a medium hold but are not often suitable for a set that will last most than 3 days on their own. They also have a very fast dry time which can be helpful.

Gels: Are best when we need more longevity, volume, and elongation. They will take longer to dry and will provide a firmer cast.

I often use a combination of both. If your curls look defined when wet but you have a lot of frizz or your set does not last you will want to opt for more hold. If your hair is too hard and flat pull back on the hold and opt for something softer.

It's not always what you use, but how you use it

All curly sets must start on soaking wet hair to avoid frizz. The idea is to capture the definition we see on our hair in the shower with a holding product, so if you already see frizz when wet styling, add more water!

On loose curls:

 I personally like to apply my products on loose curls using my detangling/styling brush. I take sections the size of my brush, apply my product to the middle of the hair and work my way up to avoid flat roots. I use my brush to create ropes of hair, then scrunch with a gel if I need extra hold, and then scrunch with my microfiber towel. You may not see the curls until you scrunch. Go ahead and diffuse until it's firm if you have the time.

On tight curls:

I often start with my uncle funkys curly magic as a base gel and layer my base gel with water several times in the shower/shampoo bowl until the hair is very heavy. Don't worry too much about applying in tiny sections, instead squish the product throughout the hair until it can hold enough water to make a squishy, wet sneaker noise. Split open the hair and swipe product onto the root area in a downward motion, making sure to continue stretching the hair and organizing it to avoid tangles. 

This base gel is a humectant, which means it binds water to your hair. Your hair, especially if it is low porosity, will soak it up and you will need to continue layering water with your gel to avoid it getting sticky. Once your base gel is on, go ahead and apply a topper gel or foam of your choice. 

For a fluffy volume or a set on looser curls try using foam as your base and gel as a topper.

Once all products are applied you may section the hair and smooth and separate it. Raking motions or brushes tend to work well on looser patterns, but if you are struggling try holding sections of your hair between your palm and your thumb and use a continuous smoothing and stretching motion instead. You can then shake your head to add additional separation. 

Higher holding products=more definition and longevity

My favorite foams

Gels