Introduction to Coastal Processes

is the set of studies on the development, dynamics, and evolution of coastal ecosystems insofar as they are directly influenced by geological, hydrological, atmospheric, biological, oceanographic, and human factors and elements at the most diverse scales

Class 1 Introduction to Coastal Processes

~ 30 min

First exercise instructions


Class 2  Coastal Classifications and Definitions

~ 30 min

Second exercise instructions



Class 3  Coastal Sediments and It's Origins

~ 50 min

Third exercise instructions

Gradistat website

Gradistat spreadsheet link

Data for the excise

Note that samples 1 and 2 were processed using half-phi intervals. Samples 3 and 4 were processed using laser granulometer intervals.

Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

Sample 4

Class 4 Sediment Budget and Sand Transport

~ 40 min

Fourth exercise instructions

Class 5 Sea Level Oscillations

~ 40 min

Fifth exercise instructions

Class 6 Coastal Barriers

~ 40 min

no exercises today :-)


Class 7  Generation and Propagation of Ocean Waves

~ 40 min

Sixth exercise instructions

Sixth exercise data

Class 8 Waves in Shallow Waters

~ 30 min

no exercises today :-)


Class 9 Storm Waves and Impacts on the Shore. Part I

~ 40 min

no exercises today :-)

Class 10 Storm Waves and Impacts on the Shore. Part II

~ 40 min

Seventh Exercise

Seventh Exercise data


Class 11 Ocean Tides. Part I

~ 40 min

no exercises today :-)


Class 12 Ocean Tides. Part II

~ 40 min

no exercises today :-)

Class 13 Beach Morphodynamics

~ 50 min

no exercises today :-)

Class 14 Coastal Erosion and Solutions for Coastal Defense

~ 50 min

Final Exercise

In the final exercise, you are supposed to write a small report (in English or in French) describing your personal opinions on the topics covered in the documentary produced by  Denis Delestrac.

English Version of "Sand Wars"

Version française de "Le sable: enquête sur une disparition" 

The results of this exercise must be sent to my e-mail adress.