Acts 16:12-40
Acts 20:6
Philippians
1 Thessalonians 2:2
Philippi acquired a new name in the 4th C BC, when Philip II of Macedon conquered the city of Crenides, in order to take control of its gold mines. In the 1st C BC, the plain to the west of the city was the scene of the Battle of Philippi, the conflict that saw the forces of Antony and Octavian defeat Brutus and Cassius who had sought to restore the Roman Republic, after the assassination of Julius Caesar. Octavian would go on to be recognised as Augustus Caesar. Augustus settled many military veterans in the city helping to establish its status as a 'little Rome'.
In the 1st C AD, Paul and Silas came to Philippi, via Neapolis. Paul and Silas' intentions had been frustrated: the Holy Spirit's way of guiding them to Alexandria Troas (Acts 16:6-8), where Paul, in a dream, was called to minister in Europe. "Come over the Macedonia and help us." (Acts 16:9-10)
Presumably because there were too few Jews in the city, instead of finding synagogue in which to speak, Paul and Silas found a 'place of prayer' outside the city. It was here that Lydia became the first known Christian convert in Europe.
Paul's care for an abused slave girl led to conflict with her owners and, without proper process, Paul and Silas were beaten and thrown in jail. Paul alludes to this 'outrageous treatment' in 1 Thessalonians 2:2. Such outrageous treatment didn't prevent Paul and Silas from sharing the gospel, but rather, led to their famous response to the jailer's question, "Sirs, what must I do to be saved?" : "Believe in the Lord Jesus, and you will be saved - you and your household.” (Acts 16:30-31 NIV)
After making known their Roman citizenship, which should have shielded them from imprisonment without trial, Paul and Silas were released, to continue their ministry and their journey. (Acts 16:35-40)
I have been able to visit Philippi on a number of occasions: as part of Salvation Army study tours and on a personal visit in 2019. The site itself is approximately 16 km from Kavala (Neapolis), now, as then, a good starting point for visiting the region.
The entrance to the site is at its southern end, with ample parking, toilets and a cafe, all available before entering the actual site. Make sure you ask for a map brochure when receiving your ticket - you may not be offered one!
The theatre is close to the entrance and the first location of note after entering the site. Continuing past the theatre, through Basilica A, a path and various monuments sit above a modern road, now closed to traffic, which divides the site. At the northern end of the section above the road, behind the trees and past Basilica C, is the Museum of Philippi. Entrance to the museum is included in the site ticket and it is well worth a visit. A rough track leading to the acropolis begins near the museum entrance.
There is a good view of the lower area of the site from the steps which descend to the road dividing the site. Most obvious to view are the Roman Forum and the standing pillars of Basilica B, visible in Google Earth Street View here. The latrines are behind the northern end of Basilica B. At the southern end of the lower level, under a protective canopy, is the so-called Porphyrios Mosaic, a tribute to Paul from the 4th C AD.
Just a few kilometres north of the archaeological site is the exquisite Baptistery of Lydia. It is a beautiful place for a rest and quiet reflection. Take note of the floor in the porch as you enter - it is a large mosaic map depicting locations on Paul's 'second missionary journey''.
Click here for a Google Earth view of the archaeological site of Philippi.
The museum is at the northern end of the archaeological site. It can also be accessed by road from the north, but be aware that the road which bisects the archaeological site is closed.
Entry to the museum is included in the site ticket.
The entrance to the museum is visible in Google Street View here.
In honour of the first known Christian convert in Europe, the Baptistery of Lydia is a must visit if you are in the area: the mosaics and frescoes are spectacular.
The baptistery is to the right through the gates in the Google Street View image, here.