Paris Brest Paris

Forward by MCB: Whilst editing this gargantuan ride report, I wanted to keep Lydia’s words as true as possible - it was her voice in my head while reading. It was her journey she was recounting. It was my duty to keep this account as authentic to her nature as possible. Please note, dear reader, that I did remove “I remember that I…” so much, so much, from her account to keep the sentences less of a passive action. There is nothing passive about taking on an event like Paris-Brest-Paris, let alone training for qualification. She needed to sound firm in her decisions and solid in her memoirs. But I tell you this so that you can fully understand the fog that settles on ultra-cyclists at the midway to tail-end of their adventures. They pull from from a memory that is suffering from sleep deprivation, where the brain suffers micro-traumas & ischemia that is similar to being intoxicated. When I read her draft, I could tell that she wanted to remember every detail so as to hold it as close to her as possible, but in searching her memory for those details, it was like plucking details from a hazy room full of indeterminate shapes and ideas. I edited out “I remember that I did this,” “I remember that I did that.” In your exhaustion, what did you forget? Hopefully, nothing.

So, whether you are a fellow randonneur or an arm-chair adventurist, I present to you:

There & Back Again:

Paris-Brest-Paris 2019

As much as I want to blame not having a keyboard or tingly fingers from ulnar nerve compression on the fact it has been two weeks before I started writing my ride report, they’re not the reasons. The week follow PBP every time I thought about my journey tears formed in my eyes. I felt like a fraud. How did this back of the pack rider somehow make to the finish line in time when stronger and faster cyclists didn't? I felt guilty that my tempts with fate and stumbles throughout the ride miraculously landed me in Rambouillet at the finish. I felt silly thinking that somehow completing PBP would beat the impostor monster down to a blob of nothing. When instead the monster was roaring over me, raining down insecurity so fast my feeble umbrella was smoking so hard it would be nothing but a singed shell soon. And my oh-so-loving husband suggested I was just fishing for compliments. After my bike crash in June 2018, my anxiety which had been on the back burner turned full force to a rolling boil. And it has been hard not just for me, but for Steve as well. He's very analytical and I think he finds it hard to understand my struggles with insecurity and doubt. I can tell myself all day long that I'm a bad-ass female cyclist and build up a strong wall around me, but anxiety always seems to find the crack and creeps in. I suppose that's why I am drawn to randonneuring. If I ride these really big rides and do all the really hard things then maybe that will make me a cyclist? My PBP adventure isn't full of stories of crepes and laughter. It's full of tears, because - let's be real - I'm a feeling-person, and a ride like this you go through all the feels. But don't think this tale is only of pain (oh so much pain) and worry, because there were really beautiful moments too. And, yes, in those moments there were tears but of joy and love for support from fellow riders and the community. So here's my tale from registration to post ride thoughts: holding nothing back and no gory detail left untold.

Registration-

Our bike check wasn't scheduled until 2:30 pm. However, the RUSA (Randonneurs USA) and Indiana Randonneurs group photos were happening before noon. The weather was gloomy. The rain would mist awhile then turn into a steady stream of light rain back to misty to no rain and repeat throughout the day. The weather did not dampen our spirits though. Heck, it can rain all it wants at registration if that means no rain on the ride! Steve and I had an AirBNB in Versailles (12 miles SW of Paris) which was about 25 miles northeast from the start in Rambouillet, France. We rode our bikes through the crowded streets of Versailles to the train station Rive Droite, weaving between sidewalks and streets following the bicycle symbol as best we could. While we weren't riding tandem, we were wearing matching T-shirts just like a tandem couple would. At the train station I was lugging my bike up a flight of stairs to the platform, and I saw a dozen or so other cyclists with their bikes. I smiled. We timed our arrival so that we wouldn't have to wait more than five minutes for the train. When the train arrived, I was shocked to see most of the cars full of bikes and cyclists. When the car nearest me opened I saw a tandem and a few other bikes. The cyclists were making no attempts to clear a path to allow us on. It was utter chaos. A few cyclists got on and I was halfway on before the doors closed pushing me out and squeezing my bike. The doors reopened and I somehow managed to wrangle my way in before seeing Steve still standing on the platform. The doors closed again this time on a cyclist behind me. I yelled at Steve to rush in when the doors reopened. He was fast but not fast enough and when the doors closed it caught his derailleur. Shit! I grabbed the door and started pulling and the attendants outside did the same. We were able to open just enough him to pull his bike through. Whew. Steve and I along with about ten other cyclists moved down to the lower level of the car for the 40 minute ride. We chatted with cyclists from the USA and the UK. We chatted about what start group we were in and rides we had done this year.

Not anyone can ride the prestigious PBP. You have to qualify by successfully riding a 200k, 300k, 400k, and 600k all before July 1st. PBP is the oldest bike ride in the world. Yes, older than the Tour de France. And like the Olympics it only happens every four years. There was a Japanese rider with a sweet paint job on his bike and thanks to google translate I could tell him. On the train I also meet Maggie from Malaysia, a marathon runner turned ultra cyclist with a bubbly personality and infectious smile. The train terminated in Rambouillet, and getting off the car my eyes widened. There were at least 100 other cyclists spread across the entire length of the platform! Groups were forming and we headed off to the Ferme de la Bergerie nationale de Rambouillet.

Along the way of playing follow-the-leader, we spotted Patrick from Jersey. Entering the grounds I spotted Fiona Kolbinger winner of TransContinental Race, heading the other direction. I silenced my inner fangirl.

The pathway back to registration was lined with campers and cyclists setting up for the night. We found ourselves in a really long line and I didn't understand what it was for at first. We then realized it was the bike check line. Since our time wasn't until later we decided to just put our bikes in the bike parking, which later we would find out was only for those who had been through registration. We met up with familiar faces and were introduced to RUSA riders we haven't met before. About a 1/4 of the RUSA riders made the photo. RUSA was sending 461 riders, 56 of which were females. Indiana sent six riders: Steve and I, Matt, Tim, Ron, and the RBA Bill. Tim was still stuck in the bike check line and said to just photo-crop him into the photo.

Steve and I spent the next couple hours drinking beer and wandering around. Someone told me, “PBP is one of the easiest 1200ks, you'll do great!” (LIES) I heard time and time again that this course was a tandem playground. While chatting with one lady (I've forgotten pretty much everyone's name) and adding each other on social media....she exclaimed after seeing Steve's photo on my phone "I've seen that nose already today!" Turns out our finish photo from LEL made it on one of advertisement banners for the 2021 ride!

Wandering about I ran into several people from the social media world, like Tiffany Winchester from Australia!

We managed to sneak our bikes out of bike parking while the gatekeeper was away and joined the now much shorter bike check lane. I had trouble bringing up my document and angered one of the volunteers. The volunteer checking my bike was very thorough, spinning, pushing, and prodding everything. Steve came over and they had a lengthy hand gesture discussion that my brakes cables weren't tight enough. But, Racing Raspberry passed inspection! We headed over to a longer line to get our packet. By this time the rain was increasing in intensity. I was thoroughly soaked from the mist all day and starting to shiver from being cold and wet. A volunteer went over everything inside our bag with us and sent us on our way. The international women's photo was happening at 6 pm, but with a dampening mood we headed back to Versailles instead.

Bike check line entering the tent

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Packet Pickup line

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Packets

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Leading up to the start

We woke up around 9 am both a bundle of nerves to rain still hitting the windows. Steve's not the friendliest person to be around when he's under pressure. I did not know why he was so worried because he's a strong cyclist and completed a 600k four weeks prior with impressive speed despite brutally hot temperatures. Steve was worried because he hadn't attempt a distance this big since LEL. At the beginning of the year, Steve made the goal to ride more miles than me in 2019. So being the loving wife I am, I then made the goal to make that as hard as possible for him. When he was away on a business conference trip and hosting a family reunion, I rode an additional 600k and a 1000k. So I knew I could ride the distance, but what made me nervous was the elevation. I had prepared myself that PBP was not going to be a walk in the park and I would be getting limited sleep. My second 600k this year I purposely rode straight through with no sleep. If I needed to pull from that experience at PBP to prove to myself I had done it before I could do it again, then I could. We packed our bikes, showered, and ate the rest of the pasta. We headed out to the train station to ride the 2 pm train to the start. We tried to find a store for Steve to buy an international sim card (the online place only sent us one of the two we ordered prior to leaving) to no avail. I felt uneasy. Steve and I weren't planning on riding PBP together except for the last 200k. I was hoping to keep in contact with him more than just seeing control check-in times. At a store we brought some snacks to get us through the first night. Thank God Oreos are vegan!

There weren't as many cyclists on the train this time I chatted with some riders from Korea through google translate. Riding from the train station playing follow the leader this time lead us to entering the grounds by the Palace and the sun was just starting to shine. After 36 hours of raining the storms were finally moving on! The property was buzzing with excitement from thousands of riders and their family and friends. We ate supper in the meal tent and chatting with a few familiar faces like Nigel from Jersey. The options for vegan/plant based-meals was very limited to include just plain pasta and bread and I silently hoped this wouldn't be the theme for the next couple of days. We ran into Ron (from Indiana) later on who was starting later than we were and looking for a tree to take a nap under. Ron's an expert nap taker. I thought about sleeping but I knew my nerves wouldn't let me nap. We had a hard time finding a place to fill our water bottles and ended up purchased a giant 2L bottle of water from a tent. I was worried about being slightly dehydrated and the first official control wasn't until mile 134. There was an unofficial control at mile 73, however. My plan was to carry only two water bottles and I didn't want to stop until at least the first unofficial control.

Last stop at the bathroom and we headed over to the start line. I ran into several people who recognized Moe (Mojo the stuffed llama) and exclaimed, "Hey are you darknoonette? I follow you on Instagram!" The line to the start was a little confusing. We found the group after us but were not finding any I's. A spectator in broken English said we needed to go further up the road. I lost Steve in this process but found Nigel. I was nervous now and had to pee. Lydia, you literally peed like 20 minutes ago, you'll be fine. Steve and I somehow found each other and followed the line of a couple hundred cyclists up to a tent to get our card stamped. The line split into two and several volunteers on each side were stamping cards as fast as they could. I climbed onto my bike with a weight dropping in my stomach. It was so close to the start time when we rode down the road to the timing mat, that we saw the mass started to leave without us. We hurried to catch the tail of the group as I fumbled to turn on my wahoo to start. The road was packed with people cheering for us.

“Allez, allez!” “Bon Courage!”

Rambouillet to Mortagne-au-Perche

(km 0-118 or mile 0-73 / ~ 3,500ft climbing)-

Leaving Rambouillet it felt like the entire town was lining the streets and cheering for us. I'm not talking about standing and occasional clapping cheering I'm talking about jumping up and down, fists pumping, screaming, high fiving cheering! And not just a handful of people along the roped off section, hundreds of people were cheering. The route took us north a bit through High Valley of Chevreuse Regional Natural Park before we would ride through our first town. Steve and I worked with a group of six and caught the main group. Waves of cyclists of about 250 were leaving every 15 minutes. The 80 hr time limit group started first at 4pm with special bikes following them and 90 hr start times were from 6pm-9pm. The 84 hour group would start on monday morning. Our roll out time was 6 pm. I was a little nervous about a night time start and was hoping my nerves would keep me awake the whole first night. My plan was to ride 500km by midnight the next evening and sleep for 3 hours before continuing on to Brest. Steve worked his way up into the middle of the group and I followed suit. The group was moving fast, much faster than I normally ride on my own. All rules seemed to be thrown out the window. I was stuck in a large peloton and not a single or double paceline like I was used to. I wasn't breathing too hard because I was sitting smack dab in the middle. I decided I should stay with them as long as I could. The effort was easier especially on the flat and downhills but I found myself braking more than I wanted to. Steve looked back and I could see the shock on his face. He smiled. After about 10 miles, he signaled he was moving on. I decided to stay put in the middle of a hardly ever rotating paceline moving at 18 mph.

Photo by Ivo Miesen

After about two hours, on our first really big hill, I lost the group. Dumb! I didn't want to push into the red this early in the ride. But maybe I should have, because the benefit of a higher pace in a protected peloton on the flat and downhill sections would have been worth it. But the feeling of having to pee right now never went away and every little bump felt like one bump way for springing a leak. I pulled over at mile 24 and pulled out my Freshette- ah. I guess I didn't need to worry about being dehydrated. Now heading slightly SW, we passed through another town and rode past their church. I was surprised to see people lining the roads not only in the towns but before and after towns as well. It seemed like we didn't ride more than 30 minutes without seeing a group of people cheering along the side of the road. The groups would intensify their excitement every time they saw me! A woman! I have no idea what they were saying. But sentences would be pouring out and I would catch madame or mademoiselle vs the men just getting a Bravo or Allez. I worked with groups on and off because the wind was picking up, but nothing seemed to stay together for very long. I caught up with Bill, Indiana's RBA. You wouldn't believe who he was with - Maggie from the train ride the day before. She got a flat tire and he stopped to help her. Maggie and I had been following each other's journey on Instagram. I tucked in behind them and we spun away. The French countryside was gorgeous and in a way reminded me of home. We rode in and out of forested areas then through farmlands, all down lightly traffic roads. As the sun set it was time to put on our reflective vests and make sure our headlights and tail lights were on. I stayed with Maggie and Bill for a bit.

Faster double pacelines roared past, so close that it made me nervous. I wish riders would have announced they were passing us. Maggie needed to stop to do something and I kept moving, saying they would catch me before too long. I ran into Ron and chatted with him for a bit before drafting with a group. We entered another national forest, Parc Naturel Régional du Perche. As the sun sank behind the mountain, and the temperature dropped rapidly. Mountain? Ok, ok fine, it wasn't a mountain. But it sure felt like it could be one. The hills back at home you can climb in under five minutes so if I'm climbing more than a half hour, it sure feels like a mountain. All the climbing would make me warm but the rapid fast descents would chill me to the bones. I was glad to have on my sun sleeves to protect me from the chill hitting my arms. I smiled as I raced down a roller, “I'm riding my bike in France!" The moon was starting to come up and it danced behind me as I chased tail lights into the night. I rolled into the first unofficial control after five hours and thirty minutes

Mortagne-au-Perche was packed with riders and I was very overwhelmed. I put on my base layer and leg warmers, and ate some food from my bag. I needed to find where the water was. I ran into Bill in the process. Yes! I never told Bill, but I’ve used him as my secret pacer. Bill always makes it back in time and as long as I was no more than 15 minutes behind him, I knew I would be ok. I set off after 15 minutes of time.

Mortagne-au-Perche to Villaines-la-Juhel

(km 118-216 or mile 73 to 134/ ~ 3,000 ft climbing)

The route continue through the national park before heading further south than we really needed to go, but you don't dare cheat the route. There is bound to be one secret control each way. I stopped at mile 100 just shy of 2 am and rested against a garden gate because I was getting sleepy. I just wanted to rest ten minutes. Unfortunately, there was too much road noise, so I settled for a deep meditation of breath counting instead. I did some light stretching and updated everyone on instagram. I started to shiver even with having put my rain/wind jacket on and got back on the bike with hopes I would warm up quickly. From this point in the ride and on I was pretty much working solo. I'm used to riding by myself. The silence doesn't bother me.The temperature continue to drop and was now below 50F. I was so cold. The air was heavy with dampness, so the sweat I was creating on the uphills was bone chilling on the down. We continued southwest until abruptly turning back north in Segrie. You were either going up or down - there was no flat. These hills weren't like hills at home. I couldn't bomb my way down one and with minimal effort crest the next. My stomach started to growl, I was so hungry. I didn't want to stop though until the control, and grabbing food from my rando bag with full fingered gloves was too difficult.

I arrived at the first official control and was completely overwhelmed. The control was in the center of town and half the town was lining the streets when I rolled in at just under 12 hours moving time. Hundreds of bikes were resting on racks along both sides of the street. I grabbed my musette bag and filled it with everything I needed to carry and set off to find some food. I had been warned to never wait in line for the bathroom or food. It was a little confusing trying to find where to get my card stamped, where hot food was, and the water bottle filling station. The line for food wasn't too long so I decided to stay. I didn't know what would be open just before 6 am in town. My worry at the start proved to be true, I filled my plate with plain rice and pasta. I didn't care, I was so hungry and this was the first real food in 15 hours. I didn't see anyone I knew so I ate alone. Like I said before, I don't mind being alone, I'm an extreme introvert after all. I was cold sitting at the table and slightly dreading heading back outside. This was the coldest part of the night, just before dawn. 35 minutes later I was back on the bike and feeling good.

I was on track to be in Carhaix by midnight.

Villaines-la-Juhel to Fougeres

(Km 216-306 or mile 134-190 / ~ 3,000 ft climbing)

The temperature is now in the low 40s and a few miles from the control, the sleepies hit hard core and I had to pee. I stopped behind a garden wall in the town of Loupfougères, peed and took a ten minute power nap wrapped in an emergency blanket. I don't think I actually slept but resting my racing mind always helps. The route cut north through Hardengas and continue north until intersecting with the national park again to head west to Fougeres. In the town of Ambrières-les-Vallées at mile 160, I stopped for a quick video and photo. This was the first time I had stopped for a photo and several other riders had the same idea. The sun had finally come out, spilled over the hill and was glistering on the river below the village. I took off my reflective vest and wind/rain jacket off. Quickly back on the bike, so close to more food!

I stopped in Fougeres longer than I should have. The control was buzzing with excitement. There was an announcer speaking rapidly in French, and people were dancing in the square. I parked my bike in first spot I could find and walked a very long distance to get my card stamped. I changed out of all my winter gear, filled water bottles, went to the bathroom where I applied more chamois cream, and found some food. The line for food here was longer but I thought it would go faster than finding another cafe. This control actually had more for me to eat than plain pasta! Bring on the veggies! The cafeteria was decorated with flags from most of the countries represented. My feet were a little sore but not too bad. My neck and shoulders were doing great! First time riding distances like this without them making a peep. After a long walk back to the bike I was still feeling confident I could reach Carhaix just after midnight and get about 3 hours of sleep.

Fougeres to Tinteniac

(km 306-360 or mile 190-223 / 1,500 ft climbing)

I don't recall much from this section of the ride. The route took us straight west from Fougeres. I was still feeling great. The sun was out. Every hill climbed was one hill closer to sleep, and to the finish. I was surprised to see how many towns were decorated for the event. Signs, posters, and bicycles were decorated all along the route before and after each town. There were several places were speculators were giving out free water, coffee, and snacks to any cyclist who may need it. And equally more surprising was how many people were cheering at all hours, day and night, along the side of the road. I know a few times today several people would be like, is that Lydia Trott? I forgot Steve put a huge name plate on the back of my bike. I chatted with a few familiar faces I had met on different rides or others I had been following on social media, like Kate from Seattle! She's a beast and always has the most gorgeous photos from her rides. Ha, I sometimes envy the Seattle crew and all their rides with rainforests, waterfalls, coasts, and mountains. I'm lucky to have a patch of forest breaking up the miles of cornfields.

Since randonneuring rides aren't races everyone instantly becomes your best friend because you have a love of bikes and food in common with them. I would cruise along with trains for a few miles, but lose all confidence when a hill would hit and drift off the back. I made it to Tinteniac early afternoon and I was in and out as quick as I could leaving me with over three hours time in hand. I was feeling good I could pick up another hour plus before Carhaix. That would leave me an hour to shower, change clothes reset my bags, and three hours of sleep.

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Tinteniac to Loudeac

(km 360-445 or mile 223 to 276 / ~3,000 feet climbing)

The route took us SW and immediately started climbing a "hill". Seemed more like a baby mountain to me, but what do I know? The traffic was heavy and there were several cyclists. I was probably smack dab in the center of the bulge of 6,000+ riders. I'm a turtle on the hills so I put Racing Raspberry in a lower gear and ground it out for several long minutes. Several cyclists were passing me, as the road twisted and turned. The dozies all of a sudden hit hard and even nerves of swerving into another cyclist or an upcoming car couldn't shake them off. I saw a cyclist sleeping in a bus hut just up the way and decided to join for a 10 minute power nap. Again, not so sure I slept, but counting my breath in and out seemed to help. I got back on the bike and still climbing the baby mountain.

After cresting the top and starting the descent, I saw two familiar Midwest faces hanging out in front of the Château de Caradeuc. One of the riders was currently experiencing some PTSD/panic attack. I agreed that last section had made me a little uneasy and could understand where the rider was coming from. The last edition of PBP this rider had crashed because another rider ran into them. We talked about different solutions to get the rider back on the road. One was to wait for another Midwest rider that the rider felt comfortable riding with. After 15 minutes of waiting, it was decided the rider experiencing PTSD would ride on the right, with the other rider staying to the left to keep other riders from passing too close. I would ride behind both of them and keep riders from drafting off the rider with PTSD. Off we went.

I was nervous at first because these two riders are extremely strong and faster than me and I was afraid I would get dropped. As the miles clicked by, we were traveling about the same speed I would have if I were on my own. At mile 240, we stopped at an unofficial control, Quédillac. I felt uneasy waiting around. I knew I didn't have much time to spare if I wanted three hours of sleep. I ate the last of my snacks in my rando bag. We didn't officially go into the control. We waited outside to try to spot the other Midwest rider. I had ridden with this other rider before on "qualifying" rides for LEL.


I went across the street to a line of trees and peed. Up to this point I had been very careful around wiping my entire region with multiple baby wipes to keep clean and then reapply chamois butter. I was a little sore but nothing to troublesome. Finally, the other rider showed up. The first other rider decided to stay and rest. They said they would catch up with us later. We headed off in the same formation. I was the only one with a mirror, so my job was to alert others when cars and other pacelines were passing. It was hard, sometimes, to keep other riders away from our wheels, especially if there was a language barrier. We moved along slowly but surely. We arrived in Loudeac around at 9:39 pm, meaning my time-in-hand dropped from three hours to two hours. My feet were beginning to hurt walking around. I was not sure what the plan was. It sounded like the other riders might bed down to sleep. They knew I had a airbnb in Carhaix and wanted to keep moving on. We found some food, and I devoured an order of fries and put the another in my rando bag to eat on the way. Why not? Superwoman ultra-cyclist Lael Wilcox does it?!

While two of us got food, one person was using the bathroom, then that person came back and the other person was going to the bathroom and putting on winter gear. I started panicking. I did not know if we were leaving right away or if they were going to stay to sleep and I didn't want them to have to wait on me. I had a drop bag here in Loudeac and went to go retrieve it. I grabbed a clean kit, and some cliff energy chews but not my long sleeved jersey. I didn't think I got too cold the first night and would be fine the next couple of nights without it. Stupid! I put my winter gear on, filled my water bottles, went to the bathroom, and waited near my bike. I thought they were ready to go but they never showed up by the bikes. My feet were hurting and I didn't want to waste energy to go back down some stairs and try to find them in the food tent area. Nervously, I waited a few more minutes then decided to go. A veteran had told me that the worst of the hills are from Loudeac to Brest and back; with the route change we were looking at about 38-40,000 feet of climbing, not 32,000. I knew that you have to always ride your own ride, and that any ultra-distance cyclist would know this. Therefore, I think that this group would have understood why I choose to move on.

Photo by Ivo Miesen

Loudeac to Carhaix

(km 445 to 521 or mile 276 to 324 / 2,800 ft climbing)

I remember leaving feeling a little guilty and trying not to cry. I realized now there was no way I was going to get three hours of sleep. Did I make the wrong choice to stay and help a friend? It was dark now and I was running on 30 minutes of sleep/mediation in 36 hours. Hold it together Trott! I remember knowing I should be staying more to the right then I was but also slightly hallucinating huge drop offs to the right. My mind was processing everything much more slowly and guessing what things were. Trees started looking like buildings far away and signs like people. I tried to keep chasing red lights but knew I was the rabbit being chased by the dogs. I wasn’t passing no-one and was now getting passed by people that started a few hours after I did. It's not a race, Lydia.

Details are fuzzy, but according to Ride with GPS it looks like I stopped for a 10 minute power nap at mile 296. I remember feeling calm spinning up the hills, and reminding myself just keep moving forward and racing down on the other side. I was slightly giddy passing riders that were passing me on the uphill without even pedaling at all. Racing Raspberry and I are very dense. Some of the longer hills I did spin ups to stay warm on the down hill as it dipped down to the low 40s before midnight. I remember a few familiar faces passing in the night. As the temperature continued to drop I got sleepier and sleepier. I knew i couldn't afford to stop again so I called my sister. She didn't answer. Oh, come on it's only, like, 9pm back home. Again. Again. and again. After 5 times I called my mom instead. She answered and I stuck my phone in my jersey so that my bra was holding it in place. I could use both hands on the handlebar and hear my mom.

I said, “I don't care what you talk about but I need you to talk to me to help keep me awake.” She started talking about my cats. Perfect! Of course, less than ten minutes later, the cool kids train came up behind me. I couldn't tell you who all was on the train, but I recognized several faces from the East coast. I let Mom go feeling more energized. I was ushered into a non-official control. But, I don't want to stop, as I needed to get to Carhaix. I was about to head straight out the exit when I heard the words secret control, so I parked my bike and got my card signed. I went in to use the bathroom. No one was in there, and I was on the verge of a breakdown. I was so cold and so tired. A tear rolled down my creek. No matter how much I calculated it, I probably wasn't going to get any sleep for a second night. I took a deep breath and in walks Lisa from Germany. We have been following each other on social media. She asks what is wrong. I burst into tears and told my tale as she gives me a big hug. Then Misha from DC walked in. After a few words of encouragement I go to the bathroom.

Ha. This was actually the first time I sat down to pee since leaving the start. I had been using my Freshette the to save time. And, yes, in case you are wondering that means I haven't pooped yet at this point, and, in fact, I wouldn't the entire ride. Shivering, I got back on my bike and continued on to Carhaix. The uphills were intense and long and would warm me up, but the on the downhills I would start shivering so bad Racing Raspberry was moving under me. The temperature was now below 40 degrees, but down in the valley where the air was heavier it was much colder. In Carhaix, I got my card stamped and was on my way in under ten minutes. Our AirBNB was on route just a half mile down the road. Steve had been there for a few hours, I think.

I left my bike downstairs in a screened in room and headed upstairs with my arms full of stuff. I was still shivering. I hated waking Steve but I only had an hour time in hand at this point. It seemed like ages for him to open the door. The airbnb was pretty empty and the bedroom was a loft with a bed. I stripped down to nothing and cleaned the best I could with some baby wipes. I noticed my thigh/butt creases were a little tender. My legs were heavy and a little sore, and I was starting to get concerned that my hot foot was coming back. I put my phone and Wahoo and on chargers and set my alarm for 30 minutes. I didn't feel like I actually fell asleep. I think i was in that state of not being awake but not being asleep, either. Stupid nerves. It took a few minutes for me to convince myself to get out of bed and back on the bike. I brushed my teeth, hoping to fool myself into thinking I got a full night's sleep. I put a fresh kit on and headed out the door with Steve. We were behind schedule at this point. .

Carhaix to Brest

(km 521 to 610 or mile 324 to 379 / ~ 3,000 ft climbing)

We continued downhill from the control and then started climbing. It was a long steady climb and I tried my best to stay with Steve, to push hard. The temperature dropped to around 35F as we moved through a heavy forested area with dense fog. I was not prepared for temperatures to get so low. I had switched to my winter socks before leaving the control and was grateful that I had. After about ten miles, Steve rode on. I was a little disappointed, but the plan was always to just ride the last 200k together. Let's be honest, I can hold my shit together much more than he can on little sleep. So, I kept grinding away. As the sun came out I got rid of my windbreaker/rain jacket and high vis vest. At mile 358 in a small village of Sizun, I pulled over to a table that a couple of teenagers had set-up, and asked if they had coffee. And at 9 am Tuesday a full 48 hours being awake with just 70 minutes of cat nap I had my first ever, IN MY LIFE - cup of coffee. I had been avoiding caffeine for the past month and was praying this would get to at least Brest. The girls offered me snacks of chocolate, cakes, nuts, and candies and I couldn't refuse. I was so hungry. The last big meal I ate was in Fougeres. I cried. I told them thank you over and over. They asked me to sign their book of all the riders that had visited them and where they were from. I had them sign my card in the notes section and gave them some llama stickers.

I got back on the road and continued to climb. At the top I stopped for the second time to take a photo and video. Seriously, we climbed for like 8-10 miles and well over 1,000 ft. How is this not a mountain?! On the downhill I ran into Nigel and Chris. Nigel gave words of encouragement, and that we were almost to the control! The miles ticked off faster probably because we were going mostly down, but I was eager to eat some food! I could see the water. We're getting closer. Finally, the iconic bridge of Brest! I stopped and took a few photos and a video. I laughed at myself. I looked like a hot mess and I could see the swelling in my face. I don’t know why I thought as soon as we crossed the bridge that the control would be right there. Remember when I mentioned that every village is built on a hill? Well Brest was no different, and we had to climb a huge hill to get to the control. Forty minutes later I finally rolled into Brest at 11:21 AM with 45 minutes time-in-hand. So after 41 hours since the start, I had "stopped" for less than eight hours. I relaxed a little at Brest and then became more aware of how sore my body really was. It was getting harder and harder to ignore the pain in my feet and thigh/butt crease. Steve was in the cafeteria and had food for me there. I was disoriented at little and this is where I started losing all concept of time. I ran into the two riders I had left in Loudeac. It was slightly awkward talking to them at first, but I had been clear about needing to keep moving. I took my winter socks off and I hoped that it was the reason that my feet were sore. I discovered then that one of my inserts had rotated completely sideways.




Brest to Carhaix

(km 610 to 694 or miles 379 to 431 / ~ 3,500 feet climbing)

The traffic was heavy in Brest and cyclist were being gutsy. We climbed for a bit leaving Brest. Temperatures were warming up quickly and I was glad I removed my base layer at the control. Later on, I would regret not wearing my sun sleeves. I was wearing my Mac and Cheese 1200k jersey from last year. All morning and for the rest of the day tonight I received several compliments on my jersey, with cyclists wanted to know when the next ride was! About 10 miles down the road outside of the city I stopped super quick to pee. straight off the bike. God, I love being able to stand up and go. So much faster! And no one can see a damn thing.

At mile 400 I couldn’t ignore the pain on my left thigh/butt crease any longer. I pulled over and searched in my bags for something sharp. Spare spoke, no. Nothing in my patch repair kit. Oh, yeah, my multitool….. Yes, it has a knife. I headed over to a field with trees blocking the road from view. I dropped my bibs right then and there, grabbed a small blueberry sized fluid filled pocket over my left thigh/butt crease and popped that fucker with my knife. (I warned you no detail left untold!). Instant relief! There were a few things that I normally carry that I decided not to carry because I never used them. Antibiotic cream was one of them. I cleaned the best I could with baby wipes and smeared a healthy dose of chamois butter on and prayed for the best.

Once I was back on the bike, it was much better. But my feet had begun to hurt, now. The mind tricks are now in play. Just get this far, Lydia, and we’ll have a short rest stop. Oh, look how well you did, you can go a little further. I could not believe how many hundreds of cyclists I saw still making their way to Brest. At this point many were going to be late by more than hour. At mile 402 around 3pm in the afternoon, I stopped at the same place I got my first cup of coffee and asked for another cup. The first one lasted about 6 hours, not bad, right? Still climbing… like, really, how is this not a mountain? I knew the top was at the radio tower and I could see it was just right there. Come on, Lydia, get there and then you can have a rest. My god! That fucking tower seemed like an enternity to climb too. Eight painful miles later I finally reached the top. And, Bill, if you’re reading this, I’m pretty sure I was the slowest cyclist up that “hill”.

I managed to convince myself that we didn’t need to stop for a break because it was now a downhill and we could rest our butt and feet a bit. I was so looking forward to going down the wooded section we first climbed this morning, but it never came. IT NEVER CAME! Ah, the route was not a complete out and back. I crossed the timing mat at Carhaix with 3 minutes to spare which meant my card stamp would be late. I was in and out as fast as I could. The line for food was nonexistent so I grabbed some plain pasta and rice and shoved it in. Now, if you’re keeping track, yes, this is the 4th big meal I had eaten since the start, plus some fries and snacks. I knew I was behind in calories. I eventually found our AirBNB. I knew I wouldn’t have any time there but to grab my things and go. I found Steve a little panicked in the sunroom with everything.

“We gotta go,” he said.

I know! I hastily packed my bags and we were on the road.

Carhaix to Loudeac

(Km 694 to 783 or mile 431 to 487 / 3,400 ft climbing)

I don’t remember when Steve pulled away from me, but when he did, it was well before the next secret control. I don’t remember much from this section, only that I kept telling myself to keep moving and get to the secret control before dusk so that you are only stopping once. I got to the secret control about 15 minutes late. I was so tired and hungry, and I couldn't decide what to do. I remember a lady trying to talk to me before I got my card signed and thinking, “Well I’m already late, what’s a few more minutes?” I found Steve here. There was a discussion about how many miles it was until the next control. I thought I had a little more time than what I did and later realized that they were wrong on the miles to the next control. I grabbed my third cup of coffee, put on all my winter gear and hi-vis vest and continued on a slow journey to Loudeac. As the sun went down, the temperature rapidly dropped. Steve stayed with me for a bit before moving on. He wanted to ride ahead to the next AirBNB and get some more sleep. The ups were slow and the downs were fast, mostly because I refused to brake. I needed all the extra time I could get. Chasing red lights, I was moving in and out of riders. They would pass me on the up and I would pass them on the down. A tired cyclist told me he hated riding at night, because of the unknown creatures lurking in the shadows. I admitted I was scared of coyotes attacking me back home. I told him that during my last 1200k, there were dangers of wolves, moose, and bears! I said, “I don’t know what creatures are hiding in the shadows here.”

He asked how much farther until the next control and I said that it had to be close now. I had restarted my Wahoo in Brest and was failing miserably at mental math. Oh, a hill, that means a village! Dammit, but it wasn’t Loudeac. Weeee! Downhill. Oh, another up, sigh. Another church in another town that’s not Loudeac. I don’t wanna admit how many more towns we went through. At this point I knew I was late to Loudeac. I apologized to the rider for giving him false hope. Finally, I reached Loudeac and crossed the timing mat 30 minutes late. I frantically contacted Bill. He told me to keep going, and to make it back to Rambouillet within 90 hours. I was so tired, so sore, and so cold. I knew I needed to get back on the bike as quick as I could but I felt like a three legged turtle swimming uphill in peanut butter in the middle of a snowstorm.

I went over to my drop bag, where I took my shoes off and rubbed my feet. I didn’t want to admit how bad they hurt. I tried to nap but there was too much noise. I couldn’t walk without my feet hurting. I don’t think I got anything to eat here. I just wasted a bunch of time because I had no recollection of time. I think I was trying to reason with myself that the hard hills were over and I would be a touch faster. Why didn’t I put the mileage on my cheat sheet on my front bag? I only had control stops and “get your butt there by:” times. Someone told me it was only X miles to the next control, but then later I would find out later they were wrong. I went to the bathroom to change my clothes and tried not to cry. I was glad I finally had my long sleeved jersey. I have no idea how I convinced myself to get back on the bike, but I did.

Loudeac to Tinteniac (km 783-870 or mile 487 to 540 / ~2,500 ft climbing)

I don’t remember being with Steve at Loudeac. He must have been there because in the next town we stopped at what I thought was a post office. I was so tired. I needed to sleep. We set the alarm for 20 minutes and curled up under our emergency blanket. It took me a long time to get back on the bike. That 20 minute nap turned into a 40 minute stop. The next memory I have is being outside the unofficial control of Quedillac, wondering if Steve was going to stop. I waited what felt like forever. I thought he was just behind me. Maybe, he snuck past me. I kept moving on to Tinteniac. I remember the sun being up at this point, so I made it through my third night and was now running on 90 minutes of cat naps. I was excited, remembering the big hill I climbed coming from Tinteniac on the way out. Except we didn’t go that way. We climbed a really big hill and did get a downhill, but it didn’t seem as epic as it should have been. In Tinteniac, I crossed the timing mat 1 hour and 9 minutes in the red. I remember getting a big meal here and more coffee. Again I lost all recollection of time and was moving way too slow. I chatted with people when I should have gotten right back on the bike. We wasted an hour here.

Tinteniac to Fougeres

(km 870-924 or mile 540 to 574 / 1,500 ft climbing)

I don’t recall much from this section either. I remember chatting with various cyclists throughout the day, but I couldn’t tell you when. I remember a UK rider saying he was announcing his retirement from grand brevets tomorrow and I thought that sounded like a good idea. Did I mention my feet and thigh/butt crease were almost unbearably painful? I tried taking my insoles out, tried loosening my laces, tightening my laces, and basically every other imaginable combination all day to try to get some relief. I would stop at the tiniest urge to pee as an excuse to put some more cream on. I remember today got really warm with the temperatures soared into the 80s by the afternoon. This was a stark contrast from the mid 30s we were seeing just before dawn.

I crossed the Fougeres timing mat one hour and 16 minutes in the red. I was panicking but couldn't seem to move faster. I knew I was behind in calories and need to get something to eat. I envied the omnivores slightly because they could grab sandwiches to go. Plain pasta, rice and veggie soup it is for me. I remember Steve being there, saying he talked to Nigel, the RUSA board director. Nigel said to nap and get some rest, as long as we got back by noon tomorrow it would be fine. I was so tired at this point that I forgot the rule that you can be late once if you made it up within two controls. I was just trying to get back by noon tomorrow. Steve convinced me to go take a 30 minute nap on the grass and he promised me he would wake me up.

I don’t know, if I slept or not. There was so much noise and I was worried about getting to the end in time. I remember chatting with Dave Buzzee and him questioning what Bill and Nigel said. Steve tried to calm me down and stayed with me. The plan was to try to gather some time back and stop at our AirBNB long enough to shower and change clothes. Yes, I hadn’t showered at all at this point.





Fougeres to Villaines-la-Juhel

(km 924 to 1013 or mile 574 to 629 / ~ 3,500 ft climbing)

We left Fougeres around 2:30 pm. I don’t remember much on this section. I knew I was in pain but trying to keep my cool. I had made it this far without having a full blown out breakdown - I could make it to the end. I tried to stay positive. I could do this! I tried to race Steve down the downhills and remember on one tight turn I felt my back tire give a little and my bike shake a bit. Oops, close call! I tried to reason with myself how many times we stopped to grab a candy from a kid, stopped to “pee”/apply more cream, or hand out llama stickers. Just outside of the control was our AirBNB in the town of Hardanges. I knew we were going to be late to the next control, but a quick shower seemed worth it. We went down the lane and through the garden gate and knocked on the door - no answer. I called, and we heard the phone ring from inside. I screamed, “Hello!?” and knocked again. No answer, fuck! Ok, don’t cry you got this. Let’s get to the control and get some food. That will help and you can change your clothes there. Steve was furious that we had wasted time for nothing.

The next few miles seemed like ages. How many villages are we going pass? Remember, every village is on top of a hill! We finally rolled into Villaines. If I thought it was a party at 6am at the start, it was a festival on the way back at 8 pm! We rolled over the timing mat one hour and 24 minutes in the red. The streets were packed with people. I parked my bike and felt uneasy with a crowd of people watching me. Hmm guess I’m not stripping down to my bra here to put on my winter gear. Fumbling through my bags I grabbed everything I needed. The people tried to have a conversation with me. Steve went to the bathroom and I told him I would grab him a tray of food. Two pre-teen girls asked if they could carry my food tray. I said yes! I used Google translate to chat with them. I asked them if they rode bikes and they said no. I said #moregirlson bikes! I told them I was very tired but promised I would finish on time. I thanked them profusely. I sat down in the hall. I didn’t see anyone I knew.

Steve arrived later and we ate. I went off to change clothes. It was a huge struggle to get my new bibs on because my legs were so swollen! I decided not to put socks on to see if that helped my feet. My thigh/butt crease was so tender. I left the bathroom and brushed my teeth, hoping to trick my body into believing we “slept”. I got back to my bike. I think the volunteers somehow thought that after an hour, I would now know French. I put my hi-vis vest on and heard the words “Trump.” I gave a thumbs down and said Democratic. They roared with laughter. I finally found Steve. The volunteer was trying to hold me back saying, “Illuminare.” I know! I kept pointing to my generator, stating I need to pedal for a light to come on.




Villaines-la-Juhel to Mortagne-au-Perche

(Km 1013 to 1097 or mile 629 to 682 / ~3,000 ft climbing)

Steve tried to keep me calm as we just had a 200k left to go and about 15 hours to do so. I tried to push the thought of, “Well not on this little sleep or this amount of climbing and 4 nights on 2 hours of cat naps!” out of my head. This section on the topography map was very lumpy-bumpy, and we would be climbing for quite a bit before enjoying a downhill section and finally flat-ish finish. I pushed hard on the hills, not wanting to let Steve down. He thought I was “spinning’ too much, so I upped the gear and tried to grind it out more. It was too hilly for us to draft, but I was glad we were finally riding together.

I wished I would have turned off the noise earlier in the season and just rode tandem with him. He’s my riding partner and my best friend. We’re stronger and lighter together. We move faster and make smarter decisions. I tried to focus only on the positives and not think about how painful my butt and feet were. I decided to play games with Steve to make him catch me on the downhills. I’m good at spinning - like really good. It was fun spinning as fast as Racing Raspberry would let me, flying past taillight after taillight. I evil-laughed inside when guys on racer bikes tried to draft with me and couldn’t keep up! Ok, fine, they caught me on the uphill. Keep pushing, Lydia.

Steve and I rode together as the sun set. And then sleepies hit Steve, hard. He suggested we stop for a 10 minute power nap. We found a warm driveway and I sheepishly set the alarm for 15 minutes. Back on the road, I said I have enough in my battery pack we can play some tunes from my phone. I fumbled to get them going and, well, it got stuck on 2000s pop hits. I felt alive. “Let’s go, Steve!” He was rightfully so embarrassed at the tunes coming out of my bag. “Hollaback Girl” roared as I climbed the next hill. Riahnna, Kayne West, Britney Spears, and 50-Cent were up next. I matched my pedal cadence to the beat and focused on one hill at a time. I counted the hills on the topography map and I counted the ones I climbed. Just a few more until a downhill section, you can do this. Steve got sleepy again. I said “I’ll keep going, you’ll be able to catch me.”

I pushed and pushed to check off another hill. I fought the tears back as the pain in my feet and butt couldn’t be ignored, as they were screaming now. My quads were sore and kept pleading me, “Please, stop. We are done.” No quads you aren’t. You can and will keep turning the pedals. I remember drifting away from the right because I kept seeing things in the shadows. I’m sorry to those that were behind me. I remember seeing a stand. Yes, coffee! This one wasn’t free, though, and I frantically searched my bags for money. Fuck! Steve had my bag! He had everything. My cards, my money, my battery bank. Why? I can’t remember. I was getting sleepy.

I came across Chris and Patrick. Chris said, ”It’s all downhill from here.”

I checked. “Fuck Chris, we haven’t hit the biggest climb yet!” Patrick looked confused. “Patrick, we gotta go. We gotta go! I’m not a climber!”

I pedaled off as fast as my tired legs would carry me. Don’t cry, Lydia! Don’t cry. I counted the hills again. I started to climb and needed to start to snake up the grade. I kept watching behind me and would move to the right if riders were going to pass. Check, another hill gone. I told myself, “When you get to the top, you can have a stand break.” Then I laughed as I cruised straight into the downhill. Just kidding - I forced myself to spin until I ran out of gears, and then I coasted. No braking. Keep moving. Hill after hill.


Photo by Ivo Miesen

Soon I was finding that for the first time the entire ride no one was passing me. I was going uphill and no one was passing me. Guys, did you read that? I wasn’t getting passed! Then the big hill came. Try to make it, Lydia, without anyone passing you. At this point, I remember being in so much pain, more pain than I have ever been in my life. My butt, quads, and feet were screaming at me. And I tuned it out. I focused on the road just in front of me and repeated mantras quietly out loud:

You are not a fraud!

You are a cyclist!

You deserve to be here!

You can do this!

Pain is temporary.

Over and over and over. I crested that hill without anyone passing me! I flew into the next control crossing the timing mat one hour and 13 minutes in the red. I knew I didn’t have time to stop. I saw Chris and asked if he saw Steve. He hadn’t. Where was Steve? Why hadn’t he caught up with me by now? I envisioned him still being asleep on the side of the road. I knew Bill and Matt were farther behind me, too and they started before me. Am I Indiana's only hope now? We couldn’t have a 100% DNF rate. I made a quick post to Instagram with what little battery I had left. I told those following via social media that I had burnt all my matches and I was going to have to burn the box now. I filled my water bottle and was out of there in under ten minutes.

Mortagne-au-Perche to Dreux

(Km 1097 to 1174 or mile 683 to 730 / ~ 2,000 ft climbing)

Thanks CapN' for this lovely photo!

I don’t remember the route or anything much before the next control. I assume I kept pushing like I did before. I remember pulling over to pee once. I remember saying hello to every rider but no one saying hello back. Come on, someone talk to me about cats. I remember the sun coming up over the hills. I remember seeing Patrick as soon as I got off my bike in Dreux and him telling me, “No no ride up here it will be faster.” I crossed the timing mat with 26 minutes time in hand, which was the first time having extra since Carhaix. We parked our bikes right next to the door.

Patrick had offered me money to buy coffee at the store in the middle of the night and I had declined. I asked Patrick if that offer was still on the table now. It was - he generously gave me some cash. I hadn’t eaten since Villaines-La-Juhel, 100 miles and several hills later. I saw Cap’N and he gave me a packet of lanolin to get me through the last couple miles. I think I somehow knew Steve had crossed the timing mat, and I was going to get food for him, too. Or maybe I just hoped he had? I was delirious. I got double of a bunch of stuff. Yes, Beets! I remember talking to a American in the Air Force who was stationed in Germany. I got my 6th cup of coffee ever in my life and sat down at a table. I waved at Steve when he came in! He was here! I was a little panicked that we didn’t leave exactly when I thought we needed to, because I wanted to save an hour time in hand in case of bike breakdowns. We left at 9:16am just behind the Mark Thomas Express Train. I didn’t have anything left in my legs to try to catch them. One day I’ll ride with them.

Dreux to Rambouillet

(Km 1174 to 1219 or mile 730 to 757 / ~ 1,500 ft climbing)

Fuck, my legs froze going up the first hill. I panicked -there was no way I could keep pace and make it back on time. Tears formed in my eyes. Come on legs please don’t quit on me now! We didn’t come this far to stop now. I didn’t realize how much I had to believe my own advice, that if your mind tells your legs to keep going, they will. I got hot and needed to take off my jacket, but I knew that if I stopped I wouldn’t get back on the bike. So I somehow got my jacket off without getting off the bike, then my gloves, and finally my goggles. I kept the pedals cranking and cursing at every bump in the road. I did my best to hold back the tears going over cobblestones in the towns - it hurt so bad. I felt like a concussion patient asking the same questions over and over: What time is it? How many miles?

My charging cable wasn’t working properly and my Wahoo died. I was able to charge my phone enough to switch to recording the ride on it.. I couldn’t do math. I didn’t know how fast or slow I was going. All I knew was that I was deep in the pain cave, there wasn’t any light and the yellow canary was dead. I had this grand idea that if I just shifted my shorts maybe it would feel better. I screamed so loud internally I looked around to see if anyone heard it. The curse words were reeling in my head. My shorts were so stuck to me that when I pulled them it pulled the first layer of skin off my left thigh/butt crease. I looked down at my legs because I thought for sure there was blood running down them. I tasted blood. I bit my lip so hard to keep from screaming that my chapped lips were seeping blood now. Yeah, another thing I didn't pack: lip balm. I never use it and never get chapped lips. And here I was with lips so chapped it hurt to smile. If my pain was at a 10/10 before, now it was 20/10. Tears rolled down my face. I tried to shift on my saddle but at this point my labia was so swollen I was in discomfort no matter what. I don’t understand, I’ve never had this problem in the past. Why now? And hot foot too?

I looked at Steve. He was chatting it up with the American from Germany like it was a Sunday afternoon beer run. I hated him in that moment. Yes, I’m pretty sure it was! Pain and the lack of sleep were taking over the reasonable side of my brain. He looked back and smiled. I knew that smile. You wanted this, smile. I hit rock bottom. I closed my eyes and the quote Steve used to sum up his 400k this year flashed before my eyes. “It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.” I had the choice. I could stop right then and there along the side of the road and let my dream and goal slither away. Or I could say you know what saddles sores and hot foot will disappear within two weeks so stop being so butt hurt and finish this ride!

People were cheering for us, and I felt that ringing my bell was too much of an effort. I rang it the whole ride up to this point as a thank you to everyone. I remembered climbing a hill and being in so much pain that the tears came back. A man ran up beside me cheering me on, “Bon Courage!” I wish I knew what he was saying. Keep pushing, Lydia. I was so hot because I still had my long sleeved jersey on, but I didn’t want to stop. I just wanted the ride to be over. More cobblestones. More curse words. I started to recognize the wall to the Rambouillet chateau. Steve said we have to stop. I said I can’t. He said we have to put on our jersey we want to trade and we have to slow down a bit if we want to apply for the LSAH.

I reluctantly stopped. I couldn’t stand without searing pain, I knew I wouldn’t be able to take my leg warmers off without sitting down. Ouch. I took my long sleeved jersey off and put my RUSA jersey on. I had trouble standing up. My hands were sore and tingling. The pain in my butt and feet were so severe I didn’t realize how sore my hands were. We got back on the bikes and slowly cruised towards the finish. There were hundreds of people cheering for us.

Steve said, “Smile people are cheering for you.”

I said, “I can’t smile! My lips are so chapped it hurts to smile! Besides, I’m sure everyone can see on my face how much pain I’m in.”

Then someone yelled, “We can!”

Where is the finish line, already? Weaving in and out of people then cobblestone. What the fuck? Seriously, cobblestones at of at 1200k? That's evil.

Steve said, “We have to cross the finish line together.”

Fine!

We crossed the timing mat at 11:03 AM with 57 minutes time in hand. I cried crossing the finish line. I couldn’t get off my bike fast enough. I put her up against the fence and grabbed my card and valuables. My phone was pretty much dead at this point. Great, not like I wanted a finish photo at all. I gingerly walked over to get my card stamped. Eleanor Jaskowska , a badass female fixie rider from the UK came over and gave me a hug! She’s the third female ever to ride PBP on a fixie!



A guy with red hair looked at my brevet card. He stopped smiling and then got up. At the same time someone was handing me a pin, but I ran over to see what he was asking another guy about my card. Tears rolling down my face, I tried to explain that I knew I was late to a few intermediate controls, but I had still finished on time. I don’t think they spoke English. The guy went back to the table and smiled at me and placed a finisher’s medal around my neck. I saw Maggie, and cried even more. She made it back too! Bill finished not too long after Steve and I.







89 hours, 757 miles, 40,000 ft climbing. I was off the bike less than 20 hours and “slept” for less than three of those. I had six meals, plus two packs of fries, and some random snacks. I never showered, but changed my kit twice. I never brushed my hair but did brush my teeth, three times I think.

After Party

I walked over to the food tent. I was suppose to get food for Steve and I while he tried to have his first poop since Sunday. He thought it would be bad to try to eat again without getting some waste out. Apparently, I was ok to eat even though I was in the same shoes he was. The lady taking tickets wouldn’t let me leave the table until Steve came back. I sat in the chair for what seemed like a very long time. Familiar faces came in and I winced every time I stood to give hugs. I took my shoes off. Where was Steve? This lady is going to think I made the whole story up to eat more food. Finally, Steve came back. He said go sit by Bill and I’ll get our food. I walked over to the table and stood for a minute, but came close to passing out, so I crawled under an empty table by the edge of the tent. I couldn’t sleep, I felt the floor move every time someone walked by. Stomp Stomp Stomp. Steve came back with water, and I drank half the bottle in one gulp.

A photo from Patrick

Patrick took this one took!

Bill and Patrick came over and we chatted, I couldn’t tell you what, though. I somehow stumbled outside and fell asleep under the shade of a big tree. Finally, real sleep! I woke up to the biggest pile of drool I have ever produced.I found Steve and he was wearing a jersey I didn’t recognize. It was a jersey from a French rider, and later we would discover it’s from the club in France that’s like the Seattle of the USA. Patrick and I were stalling in our jersey exchange. Just gotta ask!

Then I saw a rider about my size wearing an elephant jersey from India. We traded jerseys and the fit was great. We found Bill sitting up against a tree and said goodbye. I stared at my bike; I didn’t want to get back on. I don’t know how I convinced myself, but I did. We slowly left the complex. I rang my bell for riders coming in.

We started making arrangements for the next part of our trip - a well-deserved vacation exploring France and Germany. At the train station, I stood in line for the bathroom and chatted with Kit, who I met on one of the 600ks this year. She had to DNF just after Brest. Steve walked further down on the platform. I couldn’t. My phone was charging now and I made a post to instagram, but didn’t say if I finished or not. I put my feet up on my bike. Stay awake Lydia, you can’t miss the train stop. We got off the train and slowly made our way to our Airbnb. Once there, I looked up at the spiral staircase. I was just five flights away from a shower and sleep!

Post ride thoughts

I announced my retirement from grand brevets after the finish and everyone laughed at me! Wait until the randonesia kicks in, they said. I don’t understand how everyone is talking about the double headwind and not the mountain at Brest! I don’t recall the wind ever really being that bad. But I’m from the Midwest, which is all short, punchy hills and all the headwinds.

I do feel very anxious that I won’t know until January if my ride will be homologated or if I will ultimately received a DNF for being late to too many intermediate controls in a row. I feel so conflicted about this. Rumor has it that the past couple of editions the ACP have turned blind eyes and as long as you made it back in time, they will still homologalate it. But there’s a first for everything, right? The DNF rate is sitting around 27% and if ACP is a stickler for the rules, it’s expected that the DNF rate will increase another 10-15%. Several of my friends are in the same boat as me. Indiana’s DNF will increase from 50% to 100% if it happens.

So, what if I don’t get homologated? What happens next? #PBP2023

Will I go back if it is homologated? Yes, but probably not in four years. I can see why it calls people back. Nowhere else will you find the community support like on this ride. Nowhere else will a lady driving her car in the opposite direction look up to see you and throw her fists in the air, screaming with excitement to see a woman on course. Nowhere else will kids line the streets to give high-fives like you are a pro-cyclist. Nowhere else will you immediately have 6,000 new friends. Nowhere else will every town be decorated for you along 750 miles. Nowhere else in the world will you hear Allez, Allez! at three in the morning.

I was in so much pain at the end of the ride. But, I’ll forget that. I won’t ever forget the kindness from strangers, like the two girls who gave me my first cup of coffee or the smile on Maggie’s face every time I saw her. If you have the chance do PBP, do it. Every rando rider needs to experience it at least once in their cycling career.

Back of pack riders, you can do this! If I can, you can!

Post Post Ride Thoughts

Two weeks later and randonesia set in. The cool kids convinced me I shouldn’t volunteer for the Iron Porcupine but instead, that I should ride it. Shhh, don’t tell Steve. Also, I was accepted into the LSAH.