Settlement and Buildings

Probably the oldest house in Culgaith Parish, and the most interesting from a historical point of view, is Millrigg, which stands near the bank of the Crowdundale, on the Cumberland side. Westmorland is on the other side of the beck, and some of Millrigg land is in that county. As the name Millrigg implies, there was in all probability a mill there at one time, but no sign of it is to be seen today. Millrigg was built in 1597 by the Birkbecks of Hornby Hall. In that year Henry Birkbeck married a Dalston of Acorn Bank (now called Temple Sowerby Manor) and went to live at Millrigg. In 1661 the Dalstons bought the house and used it as a dower house, and as a house for younger sons. Near the top of the entrance gable is a stone with the inscription B HB 1597 and in a corridor is another slab bearing the initials J.D. 1597. Some interesting features of the house are the short staircase, the massive walls with slits which would be used for shooting through in times of danger, and the many masons' marks on the walls. The dining room is panelled in oak, which has gone black with age; and in this room there is a large arch of an old fireplace, about seven feet across. The fireplace in the drawing room is tall and wide and made of carved red sandstone. The floor of the attic is made of cement. This room was at one time used for storing corn.

At the end of the yard there once stood a large pigeon house. This was demolished during extensions to farm buildings, and the stones were used in the erection of byres. Over the centre door of these byres is a stone which was part of the pigeon house, and on which is carved "Lucy Dalston, 1715."

In 1935 an old kitchen was converted into a good farmhouse. In front of the house is a very pleasant lawn, at the end of which is an old sun- dial which was brought from Acorn Bank. On two sides are the names Dalston and Fallowfield, with initials J.D. and H.F. On the west side the dial reads Stai Passenger, tell me my name and thy nature. To which Passenger replies Thy name is Die-all, I a mortal creature. On the east side Dial speaks again: Since my name and thy nature soe agree, Think of thyself when thou looks upon me.

The Dalstons occupied Millrigg for over 200 years, then followed James Copley (farmer), Henry Boazman, J. Lancaster, D. Halmshaw, I. Huntington, and, since 1935, K. Boazman. The converted farmhouse is occupied by Rex Sowerby, tenant of the farm.

Today there are 112 houses in Culgaith parish, with a population of approximately 330. Since the turn of the century, 44 houses and bungalows have been built, 22 privately and 22 by the local council. It is interesting to note that practically all the older houses were built of the lovely local red sandstone, and all the newer ones of brick covered with plaster. The houses which were at one time whitewashed are now covered with plaster. 

Since 1900, eight houses have been rebuilt or converted. One at Greenhouses was burnt down, the cottage next to the Black Swan has been unoccupied for years, one next to Rose Bank Cottage has completely disappeared, and one at the bottom of Well Gates is being altered and modernised. There are half as many cars as houses, and probably as many television sets.

Several trees which gave their names to houses have been cut down in the last few years. The tall Lombardy poplars, after which Poplar House is called, disappeared many years ago. The very old elm tree at Elm Tree Farm and the lovely copper beech at Beech House were cut down within the last few years, and in 1959 a big sycamore opposite the Tarn was felled to make room for a new bungalow. Some small woods have also disappeared. At one time a long narrow stretch of trees ran at right angles from the Pale, across Carmoor. Many of these were blown down during a storm fifty or sixty years ago, and the rest were cut down later. Another wood on the same moor, consisting mostly of pine trees, has also been felled, and so has Park Wood, which ran along by the railway to- wards Newbiggin. The wood at Cross Howe, which was a game reserve, was also cut down a few years ago.

Since 1960 at least 40 new houses and bungalows have been built in Culgaith, including several barn conversions which have been tastefully carried out. There are very few gaps now left to be built upon through the village.

In 1976 six new bungalows were built by Eden District Council on three sides of a square in the centre of the village to be rented to senior citizens. A handsome chestnut tree was felled to make way for the bungalows, however a young chestnut tree has been planted to replace it and the bungalows named Chestnut Close. Of the original six tenants two remain, Mr. and Mrs. George Whitfield, and Miss D. Robinson. George is also the oldest resident. The bungalows are centrally heated, double glazed and very comfortable and easy to run. They all have some garden of varying size and have car parking facilities.

More than half of the remaining 22 Council houses in the village have been sold to tenants 60

and the remainder have been modernised by the Council, with the addition of central heating, double glazing etc. The new owners have carried out their own improvements.