History
Land ownership.  Military history.  Church history. Agricultural history.  Transport history.  Climate

Culgaith is a very old place, and must have existed before the Norman Conquest. When William of Normandy invaded England in 1066, he conquered the whole country except Cumberland, Westmorland, Northumberland and Durham. These counties resisted valiantly for a few years, and to suppress the insurrection, William marched north at the head of a powerful army, and the whole of the north of England was laid waste. An old historian says "For nine years neither the plough nor the spade was put into the ground." These four northern counties are not included in the Domesday Book, probably on account of the desolation in which they had been involved by their opposition to the Conqueror, and by the frequent and devastating incursions of the Scots.

Eventually William conquered the whole of the country, and he and his sons divided out the land amongst the Norman barons, as a reward for their services. Henry I, William's son, gave land in Cumberland, including Culgaith, to Adam Fitz Swane, or Sweyn, who became chief lord of Culgaith.

According to some historians, the Fitz Swane family was not Norman but Saxon, and they owned large estates in Cumberland and Yorkshire before the Norman Conquest. For some reason they were allowed to retain their estates after the coming of the Normans. It has been suggested that as one of the Fitz Swane family married a Norman lady, he was allowed to keep possession of his lands. The Saxon name was Swane or Sweyn and Adam adopted. the Norman " Fitz," meaning son. FitzSwane thus means "son of Swane."

It seems that at this time there was a hermitage and a mill near Culgaith, called Kirkandreas, which was given by Adam Fitz Swane to the Abbey of St. Mary's, York, and its monks at Wetheral. In 1274 Bishop Robert Chause threatened with excommunication all evil-disposed persons who tampered with Culgaith Mill. There is a wood between Newbiggin Viaduct and Newbiggin Brow called Kirkandrew's Wood, and a field nearby of the same name, so in all probability the hermitage stood somewhere in this area. The theory is held by some people that there was at one time a mill in the field now called Hag End. There are some stones in that field which may be the ruins of some ancient building. Hag End may at one time have been part of the Kirkandreas Estate, and Kirk- andrew's Wood and Park Wood may have been all one. There is no river near Hag End, so the question is: where was the power obtained for driving the mill?

Some historians write of " Kirkandreas with adjacent wood and land, and an appendage called Prestbank." There is a field not so far from Hag End, on the opposite side of the new station road, called "Pez Bank." Could this be "Prestbank" ?

In 1290, Simon, Abbot of St. Mary's, York, granted to Sir Michael de Harcla a place called Kirkandreas, with adjacent wood and land. It appears that Sir Michael built himself a mansion there, " because it was near his village of Culgaith, and convenient for habitation and the chase." His son, Sir Andrew, was governor of Carlisle Castle, and when the Scots besieged it for ten days, the garrison repulsed them and they had to with- draw, after ravaging the country round about for miles. For his services, Sir Andrew was created Earl of Carlisle. In a later raid by the Scots, de Harcla was suspected of conniving at these incursions, and when summoned to the King's presence, refused to obey. He was later captured in Carlisle Castle, tried, found guilty of treason, and condemned to be hanged, drawn and quartered. The severed parts were exposed on the castle walls of Carlisle, Newcastle, York and Shrewsbury, and his head was spiked on London Bridge. On the question of his guilt much doubt exists.

After the death of Sir Andrew de Harcla, his lands, which included three-quarters of the manor of Culgaith, were confiscated and granted to Hugh de Moresby. Next year, Anthony de Lucy, keeper of Andrew's forfeited land, was ordered to deliver Kirkandreas to the Abbot of St. Mary's, York. In 1328 the abbot complained that Hugh de Moresby and others "had broken his mill at Culgaith and his close at Kirkandreas, felled and carried away trees, fed off the grass with cattle, turned up the ground with swine, and assaulted his servant."

A descendant of Hugh de Moresby, patron of All Saints' Church, which had been founded by one of his ancestors, complained that the Rector of Kirkland was bound to celebrate Mass there on weekdays, and to cause water and bread to be blessed there on Sundays, but refused to do So. In 1456 the Bull of Pope Calextus III directed the bishop to inquire into this complaint. The original bull remained for many years in the custody of the inhabitants of Culgaith, but is now kept at Tullie House, Carlisle. It is quite a small piece of parchment, is well preserved and still has attached the Papal seal. The writing, of course, is in Latin.

Scottish Raids

Invasions by the Scots continued at intervals for several hundred years. Culgaith being a little way from the main road, seems to have been more or less immune from attack, but people living along the Crowdundale Beck were not altogether exempt from the Scottish raiders, and had to watch by night the fords and other passages by which raiders might pass. There were five fords in the neighbourhood to watch, and the duty of watching them, according to regulations of 1468, was shared by Blencarn, Culgaith, Skirwith, Kirkland, Newbiggin, Milburn, Milburn Grange, Knock, Dufton, Marton, Kirkby Thore and Temple Sowerby. Bailiffs and constables were directed to appoint watchmen, and Christopher Crackenthorpe and Gilbert Wharton, "the king's highness's servants," were nominated overseers. It is interesting to note with regard to this obligation to guard the fords the following directions: "This watch to begin on the first night of October, and to continue until the sixteenth day of March, and the same sooner to begin, or longer continue, at the direction of the lord warden general or his deputy for the time being. Also, all this watch notwithstanding, every township aforenamed to appoint and to have a man to watch their town nightly, as well as to raise frays from other watches as occasion shall be, as for the safety of other towns."

As a set off against these onerous tasks, rewards were held out to those who took prisoners, but the amounts of these rewards were not stated; while there were threats of dire punishment upon anyone who connived at a prisoner's escape.

Both Penrith and Appleby suffered severely on a few occasions from the Scottish raids. In 1382 the Scots traversed Cumberland and West- morland. They invaded Penrith on a fair day when the town was thronged with people. They rifled booths and houses, massacred towns- people and strangers, and carried off much booty to Scotland. Retribution followed, for a pestilence was raging in Cumberland at the time. It accompanied them to Scotland, where it carried off one-third of its inhabitants.

In the time of the old chapel, Culgaith people had to attend Kirkland, the Mother Church, for baptisms, marriages and burials. By 1756 the old building had become very dilapidated and was pulled down. A new one was built on the same site, but in the middle of 1758 it had not been consecrated, so on July 19th, 1758, the Chapel Wardens and Proprietors of certain messuages in the hamlet of Culgaith sent a petition to the Bishop of Carlisle, pointing out that Culgaith was about three miles distant from the parish church, that there had been an ancient chapel which had been pulled down owing to its dilapidated condition (with permission from the Bishop), that a new chapel had been built, and that there was a chapel yard convenient for a burial place. The inhabitants of Culgaith asked the Bishop to consecrate the new chapel and burial ground. This was done on August 1st, 1758.

At one time Culgaith must have been a very small village, consisting of four or five farmhouses and a few cottages with crofts behind. The village was surrounded by waste or common land, on which the in-habitants of the village could feed their sheep and cattle. In 1773 an Act was passed" for dividing and inclosing the Common and Waste Grounds within the Manor or Township of Culgaith."

In 1775, when Culgaith Moor (or Carmoor) was cultivated, after the Inclosure Act-several urns were found filled with ashes. At the same time workmen destroyed the mounds of places supposed to have been used for the practice of archery on this moor. At one time the big landowners had to provide a certain number of archers in time of war, so the men of the village had to learn the practice of archery.

About 1784 a person discovered two excavations on Carmoor, about ten yards apart, each covered over with earth, six or eight inches in thickness. One of them was circular, about five yards in diameter and contained four urns standing upright, enclosing bones and ashes, the mouth of each covered with a flat stone. The other was nearly square and contained no urns.

Railway

The building of the Midland Railway through Culgaith, 1870-1873, caused a great upheaval in the village, and when it was finished it made life easier for many people. Before the railway came, the only means of getting about were on horseback or on foot. Most of the farmers owned a galloway and some had a trap of some sort, but for most people travelling meant "shanks' pony." There were many public footpaths which shortened distances considerably. For instance, a path led from Stain- gills across the Back Road, down the crofts to the Wesleyan Chapel, down Well Gates, across the station road, along the fields to Williamsgill, then on to Fair Hill, Appleby. This was known as the Beggars' Footpath." To get to Newbiggin, people walked across the Parks, which is very much shorter than going by the present road. Anyone going to Blencarn would take the footpath across Carmoor. There was also a public way from Culgaith across a ford in the Eden and down Winderwath Drive. Most of these paths have been lost through not being used, but some of the stiles are left. When Mr. Knox and Mr. James Huddart were alive they used to wade across the River Eden and walk down Winderwath Drive once a year to keep the footpath open. Another road which is used very little today is the Drove Road which goes over Brownbank. It is so called because cattle and horses used to be driven over it on their way to Brough Hill Fair. The cattle, as well as the horses, were shod.

Before the railway was built, very little coal was used, as it had to be brought from Alston, which was sixteen miles away, and over a very rough mountain pass, Hartside. Every now and then several farmers went to Alston in a party, with their horses and carts, for coal. They set off early in the morning, got their coal, and came back as far as Shaw House, a public house which has since been burnt down. Here they unyoked their horses and stayed the night, probably making a merry neet" of it. Next day they set off for home.

The making of the stretch of railway between Newbiggin and Langwathby was a very big job, as it was a most difficult stretch of line. There was the viaduct at Newbiggin to build, and the stone for this had to be carted from Crowdundale Quarry, and had all to be dressed. Then there was the big tunnel (661 yards long), then the cutting at one side of the line and the banking up at the other, then the small tunnel-Waste- banks-220 yards long. There were no bulldozers or other mechanical aids in those days and everything had to be done by hard manual labour. Dozens of navvies, masons, engineers and so on invaded Culgaith, many of them bringing their wives. Many of them found accommodation in parlours, bedrooms and even back kitchens of the inhabitants of Culgaith, and those who were not so fortunate built themselves very primitive huts of sods, stones, bracken or any materials available, on the tunnel top. Some of these workmen were very quiet, decent fellows, but many of them, though splendid workers, were rough and loved drinking, fighting and swearing. The two inns in the village did a roaring trade. Some village men went to help to build the railway, as pay was good compared with that of tradesmen and farm workers. When the railway was finished these men were too old to start an apprenticeship to a trade, and many of them had to be content with casual labour for the rest of their lives. Quite small boys were sent to work on the railway, for the money they took home was very useful in those days of small wages. One boy was killed while working at the Tile Kiln.

Several horses were employed in making the railway, and these were stabled in some buildings now belonging to George Sowerby's farm, Laurel House. A few months ago, when an electrician was working on these buildings, he found some old beams which had been charred by fire, most probably the fire that occurred while the railway was being built, when nine horses were burnt to death.

When passenger trains started to run (1876), many people were very nervous at travelling at such a great speed. The story goes that one old lady knelt down on the platform and said her prayers before venturing on a journey! When the railway was built through Culgaith there was not a station at first. People using the railway had to walk to Newbiggin Station. The one at Culgaith was not opened until about 1880. Mr. Chidgey was the first station master.

After the railway was built, a number of village men obtained work there, as platelayers, signalmen and porters. It was a great boon to the whole district, for apart from the passenger service, the mail came by rail from Carlisle, the farmers for many years sent their churns of milk off by train, cattle and sheep travelled by train, and people were able to get as much coal as they wanted. This was delivered by horse and cart, and dumped (loose) at the coal house doors for elevenpence or a shilling a hundredweight.

There have been several accidents, some fatal, on the Culgaith length of line, mostly to platelayers. Soon after the railway was built, a train was derailed a little to the south of the station, and various kinds of goods were scattered over Hag End. In 1930 there was a very bad accident in Waste Banks tunnel, when a passenger train ran into a worktrain. The driver of the passenger train was killed and one of the passengers died later. A level crossing is always a dangerous place, and a few accidents have occurred at the one at Culgaith, but none of them very serious. Probably the worst one was that involving the late James Sowerby. He was leading a horse drawing a load of corn in bags, when on the last hill above the station the belly-band broke, causing the horse to run downhill and through the gates, right in front of a train. Horse, cart and corn were scattered far into the tunnel, but fortunately James had let go and was unhurt.

During the last few years things have changed very much for the worse on the railway. Many people travel by car or bus; milk is colllected at the farms and taken to the Express Dairy at Appleby; the mail comes by road from Penrith, and cattle and sheep are carried in lorries. The station staff has been depleted and it is feared that very soon the station will be closed.

Great Frost

Old people in Culgaith still talk of the Great Frost in the winter of 1894-95. It was most severe, and lasted for several weeks. There were no pipes to get frozen in those days, but the Tarn and other watering places were frozen solid, and the Eden was completely frozen. James Huddart skated from Culgaith to Langwathby without getting off the river.

Boer War

The Boer War did not greatly affect Culgaith directly. There was great rejoicing at the Relief of Mafeking, and most of the children wore paper hats decorated with coloured streamers to mark the occasion. Only one man, Clem Taylor, went to fight in South Africa. When he returned at the end of the war, he received a great welcome. He was met by some young men with a dog cart, into which they hoisted him. They pulled the dog cart up the Station Hills and through the village, headed by Culgaith Brass Band. "Kruger" brought up the rear in a wheel- barrow. A framed photograph of Clem in uniform hung for many years in the Victoria Institute.

WW1

In the First World War many young men volunteered or were called up for the forces and were sent to various fighting fronts. Two village lads, Thomas Frederick Huddart and Clarence Stanley Taylor, and two young men whose parents lived in the village, John Maurice Foster and William Edgar Williamson, were killed. Their names are on the War Memorial which was erected near the centre of the village. The men who returned from the War were responsible for the erection of this memorial. Their lives are commemorated in a presentation on the War Memorial

It was a busy time for most people at home during the war. were busy growing extra food. Labour was scarce and they were glad to have the help of the German prisoners who were billeted in the Victoria Institute. Money had to be raised for the Red Cross and for helping to carry on the War. Many foodstuffs were rationed and all lights had to be blacked out at nights.

WW2

In the Second World War, similar conditions prevailed, but the rationing and black-out restrictions were more severe. Then there was the Observation Post-a hut, first in the field behind the Wesleyan Chapel, then later removed to the top of Sourbriggs-where every aeroplane which passed over was noted and plotted. Several men from Culgaith and district took duty in turn, day and night. A Home Guard was also formed.

Twenty-two evacuee children were received from Newcastle at the outbreak of war, as well as eight private evacuees from other places. In 1942 the Parish Council received a letter from Mr. J. W. Smith, clerk of the Rural District Council, asking them to formulate a scheme for the accommodation of 630 refugees in case of emergency. He pointed out that in 112 houses in Culgaith and Skirwith there were 254 surplus habitable rooms, but that further accommodation would have to be found in better class outbuildings. W. H. Huddart, J. Stamper and J. Jackson, Skirwith, were appointed to inspect several outbuildings in Culgaith and Skirwith. Rooms suggested in Culgaith were Baines' piggery buildings, R. Sowerby's granary, buildings at the Vicarage and waiting rooms at the station. Fortunately this accommodation was never needed.

Hundredweights of jam were made in the Institute by the ladies of the village from the fruit that would otherwise be wasted owing to the shortage of sugar. This was provided by the Government for jam-making on a large scale, and the jam was sent away to be sold in the shops.

Many young men and women, too, were called up for the various services, and the following did not return: James Westgarth Pears, Herbert Wannop and James Skelly. Their names are on the War Memorial.