Bought
MiiCoffee DF64 Gen 1 Single Dosing Coffee Grinder with SSP Multi-Purpose Espresso Burrs. It was purchased new in July 2022, by guess is its gen 1.3.
inner diameter 38mm for df64 burr. Some are 37mm
RH type burr (not LH)
hyperburr Lebrew Cast knockoff (64mm LeBrew Sweet) for $99
Think their mp is V2.
https://coffeechronicler.com/lebrew-hyperburrs/
For my DF64 Gen2, I purchased a spare bottom burr carrier from DF64Coffee and machined a small lip to clear the ID of the 233M burr. The burr was a pretty close fit on the OD, but that did a good job of centering the burr on the carrier.
223m $56 from espresso parts but would not fit, 37mm inner too small
SSP Cast Lab Sweet V2 Silver Knight for Brew, V3 Red Speed for espresso $185 miicoffee
Prima has V2 or V3, Silver Knight for $190
Rotary and Fixed sides on SSP burrs, but no difference.
Burr list
SSP red speed MP $185 high clarity, low mouthfeel
SSP red speed HU $185
SSP Sweet lab cast burr (red speed or silver knight) $200 Between MP and HU for clarity and mouthfeel
Mizen 64 ES $200
Mizen 64OM $200 Old finish is moonshine, new finish is sandblasted.
Italmill standard $40
Italmill titanium $40
Italmill DLC (diamond like coating) $70
Gorilla gear DLC (supposed to be like MP) $166
I color coded the bottom (holes) and top (post), then numbered them later when I mixed up black and blue when I was checking alignment. Luckily it was on the bottom (stationary) section, and I figured it after the first check.
Lower blue = 1
Lower black = 2
Lower orange = 3
Upper black = 4
Upper blue = 5
upper orange = 6
I marked with blue dry erase pen, then assembled and hand turned the burrs with a socket on an extension. Follow 3 pics are the upper burrs. The bottom burrs were always wiped clean for all three cases so pics not included.
pic is of the best results I got. Burrs just barely touching. Most even results.
When assembling, push down on the upper burr assembly and then turn the collar slowly and smoothly without applying pressure until the threads engage (clockwise).
Lubricant for thread: Molykote Dow Corning 111 $25 for one tube
or Haynes 80S Lubri-Film Plus, 4 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/Haynes-80S-Lubri-Film-Plus-Tube/dp/B00CI8JA76/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2 $7.62
ebay $9.50
Have bostik never-seez
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtt8ITXQEo4
His grinder is zero'ed at 30.
15 actual (45 on video, 45-30) Yields 42gm in 23 secs.
3/24 SO Eth
10 = 30 secs, 12 = 20 secs
Pringles top for a see through bellows top
Cut the front metal piece in 1/2 so can get to chute without taking bottom off, and removing power switch.
Long hb thread. 105 has pics of mod to cut front piece
I used a dremel cut off wheels tool to make the cut, and a hack saw. Really need the dremel for the vertical cut, hard do do any other way I know of.
Pictures of how the power switch is wired. You have to disconnect the wires to remove the switch to remove the front plate. They just pull off.
I didn't check, but 2 of the wires must be to turn on/off the grinder, and 2 wires to turn on the LED indicator in the switch.
One tab is not used on the switch, on my switch this tab is discolored so easy to see which one it was.
In the long home barista g ioto df64 thread, someone said they messed up their grinder by tightening the 2 bottom screws to reattach the bottom plate.
Later, someone else figured out there is play, and added standoffs so you could not overtighten.
Pretty sure there was lock tight on the screw, so it feels tight when you first loosen it to remove the bottom.
To reassemble, put the griner on its side, and slowly tighten screw enough to pull the bottom plate to the body, until there is no play, and stop there. If its too loose, you will be able to move the plate or body. Stop right at the point where there is no movement.
I used lock tight on the screw so it would stay in place.
Never installed, still using stock exit chute.
https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/hacking-df64-exit-chute-t79493.html
page 10
https://grabcad.com/library/df64-exit-chute-and-downspout-1
Added a button-pusher to spare me the stress and trauma of having to reach around the dosing cup to push the power button. A short, gentle push of the dosing cup will now start up the grinder, and shaves nearly three seconds off my workflow! May not sound like much but does make the grinder significantly more pleasant to operate, as the power switch location has been the subject of some criticisms.
Base portion 'stuck' directly onto the base. I used some thin, high-performance 3M 200MP double-sticky tape - sticks really tenaciously to both the printed part and the surface of the DF64 base.
magnet link D22-N52 (grade N52) 1/8" dia. x 1/8" thick $5 shipping, $0.20 each
It's a pretty popular size, so I'd bet there are other suppliers in your region. I sized the holes for the magnets to be very snug, to the point where I have to use a 1/8" drill bit to clean out the holes. You could drop in a slightly smaller magnet, like 3x3mm and use some epoxy or UV nail polish to secure them.
treatstock
prices
3x downspout, 2x bean flow restrictor, 2 x vernier, 3x both exit cutes, 1 x expansion chamber, 2 x kinu adapter, 3x Vario hopper
$24.05+11.50 = $35.55 for black petg
$36.45 with 2x expansion chambers
$24.13 without 3x vario hoppers
3x downspout, 1x button pushers, 1x bean flow restrictor, 2 x vernier, 3x both exit cutes, 2 x expansion chamber, 2 x tube extension, 2 x kinu adapter
$12.35+11.50 = 23.85 for black petg
3x downspout, 2x button pushers, 1x bean flow restrictor, 2 x vernier, 3x both exit cutes, 2 x expansion chamber, 2 x tube extension, 2 x kinu adapter(s)
$13.15+11.50 = 24.65 for black petg
3x downspout, 1x button pushers, 2 x vernier, 3x both exit cutes, 2 x expansion chamber, 2 x tube extension, 2 x kinu adapter
$10.70+6.90 = 17.60
1 x bean flow restrictor
$7.39+4.14=11.53
2 x bean flow restrictor
$7.39+4.14=11.53
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOUIDYHq2ok Upgrades that transform the grinder Kyle
Cup adapter (based on godspeeeeeed version with cutout)