Climbing equipment

Climbing in Uskedalen is a true trad adventure, with clean granite cracks and very little fixed protection. Thankfully, the rock offers excellent opportunities for gear placements, so a full and varied rack is essential. A full double set of cams is recommended, ranging from micro cams to at least a #2, with a #3, #4 or even #5 useful for certain routes. A generous set of nuts - including small, large and offsets - is essential, as many cracks take excellent nut placements. Other gear such as tricams, hexes, ball nuts and micro (brass) nuts can also be useful. Long pitches are the norm here, so you’ll need enough gear to protect sustained sections without running out.

You’ll also want plenty of alpine-style extendable quickdraws, along with long slings (240 cm) for building multi-point anchors. Both nylon and dyneema are commonly used, depending on personal preference and intended use. Double ropes are highly recommended - not only to manage rope drag but also for rappelling when needed. Crack gloves can be a good idea for certain routes, and if you need to bail, having a few spare nuts and some cord you’re willing to leave behind is smart.

Conditions in Uskedalen can be tough. The weather is often wet and approaches are boggy, so waterproof clothing, footwear and extra socks are a must. And don’t forget midge spray - the bugs can be relentless, especially in the summer.