We did not have backcountry permits as they are very difficult to secure via the phone/online reservation system. So we risked it and drove from San Diego to Yosemite hoping to arrive and get a backcountry permit issued for the next day. Luckily they were happy to issue a permit and we secured our trail route as the "counter-clockwise" High Sierra Camps. As we were were walking from the permit station back to our car, we bumped into a friend from graduate school at Columbia, Matt Davis. I hadn't seen him in six years. Sometimes... the stars align.

This was a confidence builder. A short 6.5 mi hike on mostly flat or downhill sections fools you into thinking that this may end up being an easier hike than you anticipated. But this allows you to quickly assess and adjust your pack, identifying the right balance, and eliminating any friction spots. Here you will see day hikers who can reach the falls and return in a single day.

A day of "real" hiking. More than 8.5 mi and 2,000' of elevation gain. This is the first time that you really feel the clear dry air and associated altitude that gives you pause on high levels of exertion.

All downhill from Sunrise to Merced Lake. This trail takes you through the biggest trees you will see on the trip, as well as many fresh water rivers and streams. At Merced Lake there is a great opportunity for a bit of hygiene as there is a very clear stream and pool a short distance from the main campsite. It was cold, as expected from a mountain stream fed by a glacier, but completely worth the shock and temporary pain to finally feel clean.

A long steady grind up to the top over 10,000' and the first rain of the trip. The views of high lakes, lush damp meadows and surrounding granite peaks were spectacular. Besides Tuolumne Meadows, this was one of the nights that felt particularly cold. The storm, wind and rain kept us up most of the night as the mind plays tricks. You hear wind and rustling and convince yourself that it is a nearby bear.

After six nights and six days in Yosemite we completed the High Sierra Camps. At this point, I can assure you that you will be seriosly considering doing it all over again.