Outdoor Ed Shopping List

A shopping list for high school students doing Duke Of Ed, wilderness studies/education at school.

I have seen a lot of “advice” from various places regarding gear needed for outdoor camping and similar programs at school. These to me seem wildly out of touch with reality, or are heavily biased towards selling something. 

I have over 15 years of experience of leading and managing groups in the outdoors, and I’m a Dad with kids who will be doing this in the near future – this is the same advice I’ll be giving them. I hope you also find this information helpful.

N.B. I am not sponsored by nor affiliated with any brand of equipment. 

I have written this list with the following assumptions:

• You are in high school

• You are early on in your journey in the outdoors (I’m assuming you’ll be doing at least 4 camps. For example: a DofE practice and assessment at both bronze and silver level, or perhaps one camp in each year at school from year 7 to 10)

• You want stuff that is good, but you don’t need specialist equipment that is made for outdoor professionals or niche/expert users.

• You might want to be able to use this gear after you finish school, for other adventures or travelling the world etc.

• Your school won’t provide you with this gear (please check!)

• This gear will be for use in most Australian conditions BUT NOT for extreme environments like snow (please seek additional advice for going to the snow, desert, or other unique environments. Specialist multiday adventures like yachting, sea kayaking, rafting, would also have different gear.)

Here’s the key considerations for you:

• Weight: you will have to carry this stuff

• Price: you will have to pay for this stuff

• Comfort: you will have to live with this stuff

• Fashion vs Function: always pick function, but of course, we’re looking to get the most out of this for other uses too, so fashion becomes a consideration AFTER all the function criteria have been met

One key bit of advice:

• You don’t need to buy new: beg, borrow, steal and OPSHOP!

And so here are my top tips!

The Big Three: Shelter, Pack and Sleeping Gear

-          Shelter

o   Ideally you’ll share a shelter with someone else, which means you can share carrying the weight too! A reminder: I’m assuming that this gear will be for use in most Australian conditions BUT NOT for extreme environments like snow. The kind of tent you want will vary considerably considering the type of places you are going to and the time of year.

o   If you can avoid buying a tent then do so for as long as possible. You’ll definitely want to beg, borrow or steal here if you can.

o   To give you an idea of the kinds of choices there are in this department:

§  Option 1: incredibly cheap and kind of light. A plastic sheet (builder’s plastic) and some string. (the builders plastic also makes a very cheap and hard wearing ground sheet)

§  Option 2: cheap and relatively light. A pre-made lightweight tarp about 3mx3m – you can find these for about $50 or less. (not the type of tarp you’d use to cover a trailer, a dedicated camping tarp)

§  Option 3: A single pole pyramid type tent. Advantages: maximum room for minimal weight. Unfortunately these usually aren’t cheap

§  Option 4: If you’re only going a short distance and for a short time, you can often find used tents at opshops and online (eg Gumtree). These are a great way to test the waters on shorter trips without blowing the budget. Just make sure that it isn’t too heavy.

§  Option 5: hire. There are hire companies out there. If you are only likely to do a small number of trips then this a good option

§  Option 6: buy with the intent of having for a few years. If you go down this path then do your homework, save up, and then borrow and test gear before you commit.

o   DO NOT BUY:

§  An instant “pop up” tent

§  A tent with multiple “rooms”

§  A bivy bag or a hammock (these can be great, but they have specific uses)

§  A swag

§  I’d also recommend that you don’t buy a 1 person microtent (kind of like a crossover between a tent and a bivy). They have limited application and you’ll likely wish you had more flexibility.

-          Sleeping Gear 

o   Mat. The key considerations here are weight, bulk, price, comfort and insulation. There is an overwhelming array of options on the market now. Bulk is a consideration here.

§  At the very cheap and light end of the spectrum is closed cell foam mats (aka portable concrete). You can buy these for as little as $5, and also a LOT more. Don’t spend more than $30 though or you’re getting ripped off. They come in a variety of densities and thicknesses. You want a relatively dense one (better insulation) and a thickish one (still less than 1cm, but not thin like a yoga mat). The trade-off here is comfort and bulk.

§  Inflatable bedrolls are my recommendation. Something that has some insulation (also known as R Value), and that compresses/packs down for transport. There are a wide array of these in the market and generally speaking you pay more the lighter they get or the smaller they compress.  

§  Do not buy an airbed (like a “li-lo”) or a swag mattress. 

o   Bag. Similar considerations as for an insulated jacket (see below).

§  The key considerations in an insulated layer are cost, warmth, material, weight and packability. (and cut/fit)

§  Cost: This is another place where it’s worth either saving up and buying quality, or borrowing if you can.

§  Material: because you’re unlikely to be wearing your sleeping bag in the rain, synthetic or down are both options. For carefree use and care, I’d recommend synthetic. They are warm when wet and easy to wash. If you are a bit more careful with your gear then down is better warmth for weight. As a new starter I’d strongly lean towards synthetic.

§  Warmth: do a bit of homework here. When you’re in the shop, you’re looking for something that doesn’t have “cold spots” – these are often found when baffles are sewn straight through and compress or exclude the insulation material from a part of the bag. Different synthetic materials have different warmth properties. Don’t buy from supermarkets in the “camping section” – buy from a camping retailer with brands that have a reasonable reputation.

§  Weight: different synthetic materials have a different warmth to weight ratio. Unfortunately it’s really hard to compare between brands. You’ll need to do a bit of homework here too. A bag that weighs about 500g – 1kg is kind of the sweet spot here, but it really depends on the climate you’re headed to (The QLD coast in summer vs the NSW Blue Mountains in winter for example.)

§  Packability: make sure the bag compresses reasonably.

§  As for fit/cut/design, I certainly recommend something with a hood. A collar that keeps the air off your neck is great. The Zipper should be at least 1/3 the length of the bag. A full length zipper will provide more flexibility (i.e. can be used as a blanket/doona/quilt). 

§  There is a trend in the lightweight community to recommend outdoor quilts instead of bags. I don’t have enough experience with these to make a recommendation one way or another, but certainly wouldn’t steer you away from them.

o   Inner sheet

§  An inner sheet keeps your sleeping bag cleaner for longer and also adds some degree of warmth. I prefer a cotton/silk blend, but cotton, silk, synthetic are all fine. You can also get liners that add a few degrees of warmth to your bag – perhaps extending the range of a sleeping bag that you are able to borrow at a small cost.

-          Pack

o   Buy this item for life. If you don’t think you’ll want it for life then don’t buy one, borrow it. (or hire it)

o   Don’t buy a travel pack or packs with wheels or fancy zip off parts. You want something like a simple sack with a lid/drawstring throat, a hood, and maybe one zipped section.

o   You want a good balance between weight and toughness. Too light and it won’t last, too hard wearing and it’ll be too heavy.

o   Try your pack on in the shop and walk around in the shop with weight in the bag for ages. Seriously: ages. Bring a book and read it, do some laps around the shop. Sit. Stand. Pick something up. You’re going to be wearing this thing for hours.

§  Something that has an adjustable back length is worth considering (you’re likely still growing, and it’ll mean you can loan it to friends and family)

§  It should absolutely have a waist belt, a chest/sternum strap, and adjustable shoulder tension (where the shoulder straps join the pack)

Everything Else

-          Clothes

o   Raingear

§  You’re looking for hardwearing and seam sealed (kind of like a layer of sticky tape stuck over every seam on the inside of the jacket).

§  Don’t worry so much about breathability – if the retail assistant says “this jacket will be waterproof, but it will feel like wearing a plastic bag” then you’re on the right mark. It’s likely to be lighter, cheaper, and longer lasting. You are more likely to get sweaty, but to be honest, as a newcomer to the outdoors you’re likely to get wet no matter what gear you buy.

§  Buy a top and pants (get the pants in black – they get real dirty, and they go with any jacket).

§  Something like a Rainbird Stowaway is all you need. They pack down small, and are relatively light.

§  Don’t get a super long jacket or a super short jacket, something that just reaches to the middle or bottom of the bum is good. It will sit below the waist belt on a pack and won’t get caught on stuff. But will also stop water getting in your undies.

§  If you get a size that’s just slightly too big it will enable you to fit warm layers underneath at camp, and when it is windy and cold, it can be worn over the top of everything else as a windproof layer to keep you snug.

o   Thermals

§  Wool is great. Polypropylene is good. Brand names are not necessary.

§  2 tops (both long sleeve – if you can get one that is super thick and warm, and one that is a bit thinner and lighter that’s a bonus) and one bottom (“long johns”).

§  Plain black is ideal as it is most versatile for mixing with other clothes (our fashion considerations sneaking in!)

o   Shorts

§  Synthetic is the key. Board shorts are fine. Pockets are good. Light and quick drying is good. Hard wearing is ideal. Buy them at the op shop.

o   Pants

§  Synthetic is the key. Cotton is an absolute no-no (this means no jeans!).

§  Pockets are good – but just normal pockets, you don’t need cargo pants.

§  Light and quick drying is good.

§  Hard wearing is ideal.

§  Don’t buy zip off pants – about 9 in 10 people never use the feature.

o   Socks

§  Thick synthetic or wool socks in cold months (eg Holeproof Explorers) and anything you feel like for summer.

o   Underwear

§  You’ll get by with regular cotton undies, but if you can find wool or synthetic ones that are comfy then use those in winter months

o   Jumpers

§  A fleece jumper is ideal. Readily available at Op Shops. My preference is a jumper with a ¼ zip and a collar, but something with a full zip or no zip at all will be absolutely fine.

§  A tight knit woollen jumper will do.

§  A tight knit synthetic jumper will be ok

§  A cotton hoodie is a terrible idea

o   Shirts

§  If you can get a collared, long sleeve, synthetic shirt with a few buttons at the front then that is ideal. Try your luck at workwear stores.

§  You can also use old business shirts in a pinch from an opshop (a collared, long sleeve, synthetic shirt with a few buttons: perfect).

§  As always, avoid cotton.

o   Insulating layer (eg down jacket)

§  The key considerations in an insulated layer are cost, warmth, material, weight and packability. (and cut/fit)

§  Cost: This is one place where it’s worth either saving up and buying quality, or borrowing if you can.

§  Material: Ideally get a synthetic jacket, not down. You’re highly likely to get this wet as a new starter and down doesn’t work when it’s wet.

§  Warmth: do a bit of homework here. When you’re in the shop, you’re looking for something that doesn’t have “cold spots” – these are often found when baffles are sewn straight through and compress or exclude the insulation material from a part of the garment. Different synthetic materials have different warmth properties. Typically insulated jackets from fashion stores are less warm than those from outdoor retailers.

§  Weight: different synthetic materials have a different warmth to weight ratio. Unfortunately it’s really hard to compare between brands. You’ll need to do a bit of homework here too. A jacket that weighs about 450g – 750g is kind of the sweet spot here.

§  Packability: you want a synthetic insulated layer that can squish down in storage and fluff up to trap air and keep you warm. There are some very warm jackets that unfortunately do not pack down (they’ll take up heaps of your pack). But don’t let this be your prime motivator – often the very squishable materials aren’t particularly tough/long lasting, you’re looking for something in the middle of the road here.

§  As for fit/cut/design, I certainly recommend something with a collar that keeps the air off your neck, I recommend a longer style jacket that covers your bum (a large area that can lose lots of heat!), and something with pockets (where your hands are close to your body, not on the outside of the insulation!). Don’t buy a vest (they are good, but not as versatile). A hood is neither here nor there (unless you’re in an alpine environment, and then they are certainly nice to have).

o   Shoes

§  Unless you’re going to alpine areas then your normal trail running, cross trainers, generic sport shoes will be more than fine. I.e. just wear the kinds of shoes you’d wear if you were going for a jog. These are lightweight, comfy, and generally breathable.

§  There is no need to buy heavy, expensive, rigid, waterproof, ankle high boots. They’ll just hurt your feet (heavy, rigid, sweat buckets that breed blisters) and your wallet.

§  People get worried about getting wet feet – just embrace it: you’ll either be walking enough to dry them out, sitting by the fire, or in your sleeping bag with them off.

o   Beanies and Hats

§  A generic wide brim hat from school will be fine, caps are inadequate, legionnaire’s hats are great (although possibly terrible in the fashion stakes).

§  Don’t get a hat that only has a small brim (like 5cm) – you’re aiming for more like 10cm. The material doesn’t really matter, but something that can be squished in your pack and then hold it’s shape when you put it back on your head is the way to go (so no sombreros)

§  Beanies – do not buy cotton. Get something that has a closed weave or knit, not an open or loose one. Fleece is great. Wool can be very good. Other synthetics (polypropylene, polyester and others) can be hit and miss. I like to have a super light one (just to take the edge off the cold when stopping for a rest or to wear in the rain) and a beefy thick extra warm one (that I wear in my tent and around camp when I’m not being particularly active). I also recommend that they are just comfortably loose – a tight beanie can get very uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time.

§  A “nice to have” is a wool, fleece, or polypropylene tubular scarf (the common brand name is “Buff” – but just buy a ‘no name’ alternative). These are great for lots of different purposes: protect you from the cold, protect you from the sun, use as a sleep mask, keep hair out of your face, wear it as a head band, a scarf, an improvised face mask, and more.

o   Gloves

§  Depending on where you are going you might not want gloves at all, but Op shops are your friend here. Buy two pairs. A thin pair (like a woollen or synthetic liner style glove you can wear when it’s crisp or raining) and a beefy pair for first thing in the morning, or for sitting around camp (if you’re going to the snow, buy two beefy pairs. Always try and keep one pair totally dry).

§  It’s surprising what you can find at Kmart, BigW, Target, and even Bunnings or your local hardware store for gloves. Remember: synthetic or wool. Not Cotton. Something windproof is ideal.

-          Cooking/Kitchen

o   If you need to provide a stove yourself, then go with an upright canister stove. My only exceptions to this advice are:

§  If you’re going to be camping in the snow/at altitude/in really cold temps

§  If you’re going overseas

§  if you’re going for more than one week at a time

§  If you’re told you have to get something else (in which case, my advice is to borrow and not buy)

o   Buy something that is compact and lightweight, but don’t fuss about any other features (you don’t need a piezo igniter). Go with a reputable retailer and you’ll not go wrong in terms of quality (I would not buy a stove from ebay etc – learnt that the hard way…)

o   Something low and stable is a bonus. The Kovea Spider is a great option if you can find something like it.

o   Pots

§  simple, sturdy, cheap, light.

§  Don’t get foldable handles, or fancy stuff. Just get something that is plain and round.

§  Materials: stainless steel, aluminium, titanium – doesn’t really matter. Avoid Teflon coated and other fancy materials – you’re looking for long lasting and hard wearing.

o   Spondonicles

o   A spoon

§  Don’t bring a full cutlery set. Don’t buy gimmicky utensils. Just pinch a spoon from the kitchen drawer

o   Bowl: I just use the cooking pot, but if you must have a bowl (eg sharing cooking with someone else) then a margarine container is very lightweight and fits inside your pots. A Tupperware container is a bit heavier and more hardwearing and can keep squishable food in it when walking.

-          Water

o   Don’t buy a water filter, just buy puritabs (or even iodine drops).

o   Water bottles: 1.25L softdrink bottles are cheap, light, hardwearing and recyclable. They also come with free softdrink!

o   A 500mL Nalgene (ideally made from HDPE, not Tritan) is great as a “hot water bottle” and a drinking cup with spill proof lid.

-          Other:

o   Watch: all it needs to do is keep the time and be water resistant. A casio classic/retro digital watch is fine.

o   Lighter: just buy a bic lighter from the supermarket

o   Sunglasses: whatever you like, just make sure you have a protective case for when they are in your pack

o   Hiking poles: I don’t use them, but some people swear by them. Choose light weight over everything else.

o   Waterproof Pack liner.

§  Just use good quality garbage bags from the supermarket. The kind you use for garden waste are incredibly tough.

§  If you know a Veterinarian you can ask for a body bag for a large dog (they’re surprisingly good)

§  And you can also buy a NZ Mountain Safety Council pack liner for about $15. They are made for the task and you’ll look legit.

If you have any other advice or tips (preferably not opinions - this is my website after all) then please let me know!