We have thousands of wines. Although we carry many national brands, that is not our focus. The following are well made and generally more interesting wines that we are proud to recommend.
Gota Wine Vinho Verde “Azahar,” Portugal, 2019 ($11.99) - Not your typical sweet and fizzy Vinho Verde, this is dry, clean, and bright with a lot of character including a nice smokey tinge. Gota translates as “drop,” as in “every drop is precious.” This is a blend of hand-harvested indigenous grapes, in this case 35% Loureiro, 25% Pedernā, 25% Trajadura, and 15% Azal grown on granite soil. It was aged on the lees in concrete tanks. At only 11.5% alcohol, this is a porch pounder. Azahar means “citrus flower” in Arabic and refers to the fragrant orange trees introduced to the region when the Moors controlled it (8th-13th century. Wine Enthusiast: “Vibrant yellow color and hints of gold. A becoming note of maturity is developing in the wine, showing a Champagne-like nose as well as a lager-like, yeasty quality. This is a richer style of Vinho Verde. It has an exotic tinge to it with some attractive oxidation and very nice concentration.”
Quinta Das Arcas Brisa Suave Vinho Verde, Minho-Portugal, 2023 ($14.99/liter) - The name Vinho Verde covers a wide range of wine styles, from very light, slightly sweet, and slightly fizzy to much more serious stuff. This is somewhere in the middle, a still-light (11.5% alcohol) but dry style with clean yet delicate fruit flavors and nice crispness. It’s bottled continuously as orders come in for maximum freshness. A blend of Loureiro, Arinto, and Trajadura, it’s easy to drink, easy to enjoy, and quite refreshing. The family-owned and managed winery was established in the 1980s by Esteves Monteiro and has been sustainable for over 20 years, with some organic wines since 2012. Whereas most Vinho Verde wineries source fruit from many small, local growers, Quinta das Arcas uses primarily estate-grown grapes, controlling and maintaining fruit quality. Certified vegan.
Herdade do Esporão Colheita, 2020 ($17.99) - It’s not just Portuguese red wines that are improving and representing superb value; the whites are too. This is the first of two from the same winery that we will be tasting. It’s an organic wine from a large estate (4450 acres, 1100 of which are planted with grape vines) in the Alentejo, southeast of Lisbon. With 313 sunny days per year, it offers perfect conditions for the native varietals that grow here. In this case it’s Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro. The Colheita comes from 13-year-old vines on a granite/schist base with loam/clay. It was fermented & aged for four months on its fine lees in a mix of concrete and stainless steel tanks. Creamy and delicious. Sandra Alves & David Baverstock are the winemakers.
Anselmo Mendes Alvariño Contacto, Portugal, 2023 ($21.99) - We're huge fans of Albariños from Spain and Portugal. Anselmo Mendes has built an international reputation for his family estate in the town of Monçao, in the very northern Minho region of Portugal. He champions local native varieties like Alvarinho (the Portuguese term for Albariño), Loureiro, and Avesso, which are planted in deep pebble soil and harvested manually. Anselmo makes many wines each year, but this one uniquely sees skin contact (hence, Contacto) for about 12 hours after the grapes are crushed. The wine is then cold clarified and fermented slowly at a low temperature in stainless steel tanks, where it is aged for three months on its lees with periodic battonage (stirring). Not reviewed, this earlier review is worth noting. Wine Advocate (Mark Squires): 89 “The 2022 Alvarinho Contacto comes in at 12.7% alcohol. This seems a little deeper and a little livelier than the Muros Antigos. The finish here seems a little longer and the wine seems a little tighter, even though this is also refined and polished. There is a certain stylistic similarity in making approachable and gentle Alvarinho this year. This Alvarinho should hold well, but it does need some time to become a little more expressive of the grape. It is gentle enough right now that it will be a pleasure to drink this summer too. It seems a step short of exceptional this year. 2023-30” Try pairing it with seafood dishes like fish tacos, ceviche, seafood risotto, oysters, and mussels. Also grilled artichokes and pesto sauces.
Quinta do Regueiro Secreto Vinho Verde Alvarinho Reserva, Portugal, 2020 ($19.99) - This is the Portuguese version of Spain’s Albariño, from just across the Douro River that separates the two countries. Both countries use a unique, overhead trellising system that allows air to circulate, keeping the vines dry in a typically humid climate. This is lovely, the equal of the Soalheiro Alvarinho that we already carry. During fermentation, half of the juice saw three days of skin contact while the remainder was given battonage (lees stirring). This technique adds body and creaminess as well as a honeyed and bright fruit character that goes nicely with the minerality and acidity. Beautiful wine! Quinta do Regueiro was founded in 1988. Their 15 acres of sustainably-farmed vineyards are located in Moncao and Melgaco in Portugal’s far north.
Ilha do Pico Açores Branco “Terras de Lava,” 2020 ($19.99) - One of our recent Portuguese white wine discoveries, this delicious example comes from the Azores, specifically the volcanic island of Pico. Ilha do Pico, the oldest and largest winery in the Azores, acts like a cooperative in that it uses grapes from local growers. The vineyards are uniquely beautiful (they consist of rectangular walls of basalt, within which grow the vines, keeping the limited rainfall from running off and protecting the vines from the wind) and have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage region. The Terras de Lava is 70% Arinto dos Açores with the remainder a mix of Fernão Pires, Verdejo, and Moscatel. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel with four months of lees contact. Crisp and briny with bright citrus fruit and savory herbs. Very similar to the reviewed 2019: Wine Advocate: 90 “2.6 grams of sugar as against 7.8 of total acidity, 12.6% alcohol. The bargain of the trio (not that any of them are overly expensive). Reasonably solid in the mid-palate, bright and lively, and it shows off some flavor & fruit too. The emphasis leans a little more to fruit than its siblings. Will age several years, maybe more. Nicely done, refreshing but balanced.”
CARM Duoro White, Portugal, 2022 ($19.99) - We’ve carried the delicious CARM red in the past. We just got to taste the white, and it is exceptional for its price. It’s an unoaked blend of indigenous grapes (30% Códega do Larinho, 45% Rabigato, and 25% Viosinho). Although only 12.5% alcohol, it is surprisingly intense in flavor, yet unoaked. It’s focused and fresh, but it’s the fruit concentration that gets your attention. Dry, serious, balanced, and an absolute pleasure to drink. Wine Spectator: 91 $27 “Bright and aromatic, with notes of blood orange granita, Key lime pie, papaya, citronella, and chive blossoms accented by minerally hints of flint and saline. Sleek and light on its feet, with a chalky, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2026.”
Bojo do Luar Vinho Verde Doralice Branco Orange Wine, Portugal ($21.99) – People have asked about “orange” wines. These are white wines that saw so much skin contact that they show a bit of yellow/orange color and some distinctive flavors. We’ve tasted many, but this is only the second one we have liked enough to carry (The Italian Raina is the other one). The others just had funky, unclean flavors that might satisfy your curiosity, but you would be unlikely to buy a second bottle. This one is well made and very interesting with lots of character. It saw natural maceration on the skins with 10% whole cluster (including stems) and the addition of chestnut flowers(!) during fermentation. Minimal SO2 at bottling. Biodynamic and organic. 100% Loureiro. Quite interesting. Lively. Lots of “character.” Well made. Nice wine.
Herdade do Esporão Colheita, Alentejo Reserva Branco, 2021 ($21.99) - It’s not just Portuguese red wines that are improving and representing superb value; the whites are too. These are organic wines from a large estate (4450 acres, 1100 of which are planted with grape vines) in the Alentejo, southeast of Lisbon. With 313 sunny days per year, it offers perfect conditions for the native varietals that grow here. In this case, it’s Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro. The Colheita comes from 13-year-old vines, the Reserva from 15 to 25-year-old vines, both on a granite/schist base with loam/clay. The Colheita was fermented and aged four months on the fine lees in a mix of concrete and stainless steel tanks. It’s creamy and delicious. The Reserva Branco saw some skin maceration, then fermentation in 75% stainless steel and 25% in new American and French oak barrels. It then continues to age on the fine lees for six months. The wood barely shows, but the wine has more texture, depth, and complexity. Wonderful! Sandra Alves and David Baverstock are the winemakers. A work of art is commissioned every year for the Reserva label.
Niepoort Douro Redoma Branco, Portugal, 2024 ($2599) – Far off the beaten path, this comes from the top (1150-1300 feet) of the Douro Valley slopes that are famous for Port. Mica atop schist is better for white wines here, and this is a fascinating wine. Rich in texture, yet only 12% alcohol, it has very nice acidity and freshness. The vineyards are 30 to 60 years old, planted with a field blend of Rabigato, Códega de Larinho, Viosinho, and Arinto. The wine fermented and matured in barrel (228- and 500-liter). Certified organic in Portugal, not here. This new vintage hasn't been reviewed yet, but here's the review on the 2023 Wine Advocate: 93+ “A Burgundian profile. They work with vines in the zone of Murça and Porrais on slate and granite soils, with a mixture of varieties. The full clusters were pressed, and the juice fermented in 228- and 500-liter barrels, where it matured with the lees for six months. In 2023, the harvest was quite long, aiming at ripeness between 11.5% and 12.5%, and this year the bottled wine finished at 12% alcohol, slightly lower than in 2022. It has clean and expressive aromas of white fruit, flowers, spice, and a touch of smoke and a very tasty, harmonious and precise palate. A little lighter and fresher than the 2022, it should age nicely.”
Lustig Grüner Veltliner, 2023 ($13.99/liter) - We haven’t tasted a better value in a long time. A full liter, this nets down to $10.50 per 750ml bottle! The Lustig family has been innkeepers and farmers in Lower Austria (Rohrendorf) since 1890. Grapes were planted in the 1960s, and the operation gradually moved organic. First selling wine straight from the barrel to locals, they began bottling in 2000. Eric Lustig is now in charge with the help of his son, Maximillian. This is a wonderful porch pounder at only 11.5% alcohol. Fresh and bright, it has a nice crispness balanced by a barely noticeable touch of residual sugar. Lemon, ruby grapefruit, lychee, and elderflower notes abound. It has a silly label and that wacky beer cap, but it’s a very pretty wine!
Höpler Pannonica Blanc, Burgenland-Austria, 2024 ($13.99) - Such a good value! This blend comes from one of our favorite Austrian wineries. Christof Höpler is running a small but growing and dynamic operation on Neusiedler See, just an hour southeast of Vienna. Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc.
Höpler Grüner Veltliner, Burgenland-Austria, 2024 ($17.85) - Light and crisp with attractive notes of white pepper, peach, and apple. Höpler’s Grüner Veltliner and even less expensive Pannonica have been among our favorite Austrian wines for many years. Joel made a special point of visiting the winery during his trip to Austria this past November. Owner/winemaker Christof Höpler had returned from a promotional trip to the U.S. just the day before and was clearly jet-lagged, but he spent over an hour with us showing us around and letting us taste some of his wines. The winery is located SSE of Vienna in Burgenland, specifically in the Leithaberg Hills on the shores of Lake Neusiedl. His family’s 113 acres are devoted 55% to white wines (GV and Pinot Blanc), 40% to red (mostly Pinot Noir, Blaufränkish, and Zweigelt), and 5% to dessert wines. We carry everything but the dessert wines. The Pannonian climate bestows the area with the highest amount of sunshine in Central Europe and the highest average temperature in Austria. Höpler is famous for making the house wines for the Trapp Family Lodge (of Sound of Music fame) and counts the Vienna State Opera Ball, Jamie Oliver, Thomas Keller (French Laundry, Yountville), Boby Flay (Mesa Grill, NY), Petri Lukkarinen (Olo, Helsinki), Gordon Ramsay, and Marco Pierre White among his more prestigious customers. And Beekmans!
Stadlmann Grüner Veltliner, Badener Berg-Austria, 2022 ($19.99) - This delicious Austrian wine comes from the Therman region, where the soil features limestone. It is not as well known as Wachau, Burgenland, etc., where the soil has more loess (silt-sized sediment often found near rivers). Thermanregion lies just north of Vienna near Gumpoldskirchen. Stadlmann is the most highly regarded winery in the area. (Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion: “Weingut Stadlmann produces the best wines of the region.” Stephan Reinhardt: “Stadlmann wines are Austrian cultural heritage.” This and the Pinot Noir are Stadlmann’s entry-level wines, but they show the quality of the winery. The Grüner is lees-aged and has more body and fruit than most, but it shows traditional vibrancy, intensity, and zestiness. Excellent value.
Kracher Spätlese, Burgenland-Austria, 2019 ($24.99) - Kracher is one of the best-known Austrian producers. They are best known for their fabulous dessert wines, but they make wines that are less sweet too. This one has borderline sweetness with surprisingly intense botrytis notes (about 10% of the grapes were affected), but it would pair spectacularly with sushi and Indian food. It’s a blend of 45% each Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay with 10% Welschriesling. The rich and spicy bouquet is followed by a lush yet elegant palate, stimulating, piquant, and refreshing. We liked it better than the substantially more expensive 2020 Auslese.
We’ve had inquiries about Georgian wines over the years, but knowing nothing about them, we were reluctant to carry them until now. Georgia, in the South Caucasus, is very important in the history of wine with evidence of winemaking dating back 8000 years! Archeologists have found ancient clay vessels called Qvevri (also spelled Kvevri) with deposits of tartaric acid salts that could only have come from wine. Additionally, grapes are depicted on clay vessels of this period. Grape pips from shortly after that are identical to Vitus Vinifera (the family of European grapes that we now drink) Sativa. In those days, cultivated grapes were allowed to ferment. The juice/wine was then poured into qvevris, which were sealed with wooden lids and then buried in the earth for up to 50 years. Today, only about 5% of Georgian wines are still aged in clay vessels, as are all of the following wines. The following are two white/orange wines. We also have two reds.
Wine Alphabet Krahuna, 2018 ($21.99) - Wine Alphabet is the name of the winery, Krahuna is the name of the grape. This is an orange wine (white wine with lots of skin contact) from Imereti, Georgia, that spent one month buried in traditional clay pots, after which it was pumped out and bottled. It’s quite interesting in that style and on the soft side but quite pleasing.
Stori Rkatsitelli-Mtsvane Unfiltered Amber, 2013 ($21.99) - A blend of Rkatsitelli (70%) and Mtsvane (30%) are the grapes. Konstantin Frank (Finger Lakes) makes a Rkatsitelli. This is also an orange wine with up to 6 months of skin contact. It has a little more acidity than the Krahuna.
Saints Hills Middle and South Dalmatia SV Ante Posh, Croatia, 2022 ($24.99) - We first discovered Croatian wines about six years ago. The white Pošip and red Plavac Mali we brought in sold slowly at first, but they developed quite a following as customers recognized their quality and value. Unfortunately, the small importer went out of business, and potential replacements weren’t as good or were too expensive. That now changes with Saints Hills, a boutique Dalmatian winery with vineyards in Dalmatia and Istria. Posh is made from 100% Pošip, an indigenous Croatian variety grown in the Čara vineyards on the island of Korčula. The vines are between 20 and 25 years of age and sit on red rocky limestone soil. This is really nice and quite interesting. Wine Enthusiast: 93 “Posh ferments and matures in large concrete egg-shaped tanks to preserve all the freshness and fruitiness of the wonderful Dalmatian variety. After a year, it is bottled and ready for consumption. With typical peach aromas and almond aftertaste, it goes well with all white fish dishes and light risottos and pastas.”
Kaikén Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon, Argentina, 2023 ($14.99) - If we were featuring a white wine for our Wine of the Month program this month, we would feature this one. It’s that good! The use of Sémillon, traditional in Bordeaux, mellows this wine and makes it unlike Sauvignons from New Zealand and even Sancerre. Delightful! We chose the Kaikén Malbec for our Wine of the Month last year. Kaikén is owned by Aurelio Montes, one of the founders of Viña Montes in Chile. The winery is located in Vistalba and has state-of-the-art technology. At 3117 feet above sea level, the vines get enormous amounts of sunshine but less than 8 inches of rain annually (by comparison, Napa Valley averages 22 inches per year). Like virtually all Mendoza wineries, Kaikén relies on snow melt from the Andes for its water needs.
Weichafe Sauvignon Blanc, Valle de Casablanca, Chile, 2020 ($15.95) - The Casablanca Valley is close to the ocean and lies only 50 miles WNW of Santiago. Weichafe is made by Roberto Millan, who purchases grapes (farmed organically, but not certified) from the Santa Laura vineyard, which sits in the Las Dichas area, the micro valley closest to the coast. The cooling influence of the sea and limestone soil produces a wine that is quite refined, showing more of the melon components of Sauvignon Blanc than the gooseberry character so closely associated with New Zealand. This is a lovely wine, bright and lively yet soft from weekly battonage. Weichafe means “warrior,” in Mapudungun, the native tongue of the indigenous Mapuche people. The Santa Laura vineyard is dry-farmed. Irrigation is technically allowed, but runoff from the Andes snow melt doesn’t reach this part of Casablanca, so the vineyard relies on the scant rainfall, which keeps yields extremely low.
Ken Forrester Vineyards Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch-South Africa, 2024 ($19.99) - If you haven’t tried one of our lovely Chenins from South Africa, here is a great place to start. The grape originated in France’s central Loire Valley and found great popularity in the US and South Africa. It’s no longer significant in California, but South Africa makes many fine examples. This beauty has great appeal: a purity of bright, soft fruit with good body from lees contact. There’s a harmonious balance between the fruit and very delicate oak/vanilla flavors from short aging in mostly used oak barrels. Golden-hued, it is relatively full-bodied with melon and spicy baked apple, mineral notes, and hints of honeycomb and caramel. 100% Chenin Blanc, dry-farmed.
Wine Spectator: 91 Top 100 $21 “A lovely, silky white with vivid acidity and a subtle streak of chalky sapidity layered with flavors of yellow apple, pear, lemon meringue and chamomile, plus a rich touch [a rich touch?] of hazelnut. Refreshing hints of quinine and grapefruit pith sweep the finish. Drink now through 2030. 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.” The property dates to 1689, just 10 years after Stellenbosch was founded. German immigrant Frederick Boot planted vines and built a house in 1694. In 1833, another German family (Scholtz) bought it and named it Scholtzenhof. After a succession of owners, the property was vacant and derelict until 1993, when Ken and his wife, Teresa, bought it at public auction and renovated the vineyards and the house. They have gone on to make many highly acclaimed wines.