American Whites

CHARDONNAYS 

Cloisonné Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, 2022 ($18.75) - David Rossi (Fulcrum, On Point, Cloisonné, and now Madman) has just released a Chardonnay that, like all his wines, over-delivers for the price. This young Chard was barrel-fermented using older French oak and received full malolactic conversion. It has great fruit and structure with a fine mouthfeel and just enough oak for complexity. It will develop nicely and should make for excellent fall drinking. Easily worth $20 or more.

Fess Parker Winery Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, 2023 ($19.99) - Those of us of a certain age remember the late American film and TV actor Fess Parker, best known for his portrayals of the title characters in the Walt Disney television miniseries (before miniseries were a thing) Davy Crockett and the NBC television series Daniel Boone. After retiring from acting in 1973, Parker devoted most of his time to his winery in Los Olivos, California. The operation is now run by his son, Eli, and daughter, Ashley, with over 1500 acres of vineyards. The tasting room is famous for the scene in the movie Sideways where Miles has a fit and exclaims, “I am not drinkin any f——— Merlot!” When Fess’ daughter, Ashley, visited Beekmans recently, she said that the winery’s name was supposed to appear in the movie, but her dad changed his mind because the set crew behaved like such jerks. The actors, however, were terrific.

The Chardonnay is as good as you will find at this price with more structure than most, a touch of minerality, and good acid balance. It holds its 14.1% alcohol quite well and represents 50% of the winery’s total production. Wine Spectator: 89 “Bright lemon, tangerine, and guava flavors are generous and fresh, with accents of lime leaf, jasmine, and dried ginger. There’s a hint of salted caramel on the finish.”

Crū Winery SLH Chardonnay Smith & Lindley Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 2022 ($20.99) - Crū Winery purchases grapes from vineyards throughout California’s Central Coast. This is a lovely representation of Chardonnay from the cool Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County. It is low-key but beautifully balanced at a very modest 13.5% alcohol with tropical notes in addition to honeysuckle, pear, and citrus. Aged for 13 months in (presumably used) French oak, it shows the mellowness of wood aging without much oak flavor. Very pretty.

Chamisal Stainless (Unoaked) Chardonnay, San Luis Obispo County, 2022 ($19.99) - Located in the cool Edna Valley AVA and founded in 1973, Chamisal Vineyards is located five miles from the Pacific Ocean, just outside San Luis Obispo on California’s Central Coast. With 82 acres, they specialize in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Some unoaked California Chards are lean and mean, but this is a balanced, generous Chardonnay aged in stainless steel tanks. It’s clean, bright, refreshing, and bursts with aromas of honeysuckle, green apple, and hints of lime zest. Lifted notes of citrus and white peach on the palate mingle with a hint of salinity that balances with crisp acidity, leading to a long and vibrant finish.

Russian River Vineyards Chardonnay, Monterey, 2022 ($19.99) - How can a wine named Russian River Vineyards come from the central coast instead of Sonoma? We don’t know. What we do know is that this is a tasty Chardonnay in a soft style with bright fruit and a nice balance. Twenty percent of the juice was barrel fermented.

The Paring Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, 2023 ($26.99) - The Paring is the second label of two high-end wineries, JONATA and The Hilt, owned Stan Kroenke and his wife, Ann (the daughter of Walmart co-founder James Walton). Not hurting financially, they also own the NFL’s L.A. Rams, the English Premier League football club Arsenal, the NBA’s Denver Nuggets, and the NHL’s Colorado Avalanche. If that isn’t enough, Stan is also the owner of Napa’s prestigious Screaming Eagle winery! He was the ninth-largest landowner in the U.S. in 2015. In 2018, Forbes estimated his net worth to be $8.5 billion. Grapes from young vines or barrels that don’t fit the requirements for JONATA and The Hilt go into The Paring. It shows very good depth and balance and is the style of American Chardonnay that we like: it has all the elements expected, but nothing is over the top, not the alcohol, not the oak, and certainly not the malo (think butter). It was aged in 1/3 new oak, 1/3 neutral oak, and 1/3 stainless steel. Only 1/3 of it went through malolactic fermentation. Exceedingly well made for its price.

Tagline Chardonnay, Sonoma County, 2021 ($27.99) - The woman behind this pretty wine is Gianna Fugazi. Her original plan was to become an archeologist. A committed foodie, her teenage gig was as a chocolate consultant, which taught her about pairing wine and chocolate. Struck by the whole wine thing, she double majored at Sonoma State in both winemaking and archeology. Winemaking won out, and she worked several harvests in California and Chile before landing a job at Flowers Winery. She worked her way up to Assistant Winemaker before striking out on her own with a brand called Wander-Must. She also makes a few private-label wines like this Chardonnay. It’s clearly a step up from the Russian River Vineyards Chard and shows a fine balance between its fruit, acid, and oak components.

Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, 2019 ($35.99) - Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton founded this wonderful Santa Barbara winery in 1995 and built a reputation for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay before selling to Jackson Family Wines. Greg still focuses on the ripeness of fruit and balance without heavy malo or oak.  This entry-level cuvée comes from the three vineyards that Greg uses for single-vineyard bottlings: 3D, Machado, and Hapgood. He uses as much whole cluster fermentation (stems along with the grapes) as possible, and ages it only in neutral (used) barrels. Wine Spectator: 92 “A savory style with vibrant acidity to the fresh-cut green apple and ruby grapefruit flavors that are layered with dried tarragon acidity. Shows minerally richness on the lithe finish. Now thru 2025. 1,800 cases made.” Limited.

Sojourn Cellers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2022 ($39.99) - Sojourn is a first-class boutique winery begun by tennis buddies Craig Haserot and Erich Bradley in 2001. Eric had been the Assistant Winemaker at Arrowood Winery. They purchase grapes from highly regarded vineyards in Sonoma and Napa and make small lots of very special wines, including some highly acclaimed single vineyard wines that are substantially more expensive. The grapes for this Chardonnay come from three famous vineyards: Sangiacomo, Durell, and Gap’s Crown. The components were fermented separately, blended, and then aged for 11 months in 30% new French oak barrels. This excellent wine is quite flavorful (green apple, lemon curd, and dried ginger) due to the small clusters of the 2022 vintage, yet balanced with good acidity and focus.

Levendi Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2023 ($39.99) - Most California wineries purchase the grapes they use or “buy” from the farming side of their operation. Either way, prices paid are recorded. A close look explains why so many Napa vines have been grafted over to Cabernet Sauvignon: growers can get more for their Cab grapes! Average prices paid per ton for 2023, the latest vintage for which we have complete data, are as follows: Cabernet Sauvignon, $9080; Syrah, $5018; Merlot, $4721; Zinfandel, $4666; Chardonnay, $3600; Sauvignon Blanc, $3165; and Pinot Noir, $2867. (We were surprised that Syrah was so high and Pinot Noir was so low.) The general rule of thumb is that the retail price is the cost per ton divided by 100, which is why so many Napa Cabs sell for $80 - $100 today!

Levendi Winery was founded in the early 1990s by James Gianulias, his son David, and family friend Todd Rustman. The winemaking consultant is Alison Doran, whose father, Russell Green, had purchased Simi Winery in 1969 (when it was a serious winery) and brought in legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff as the consultant. Alison worked in the cellar beside André and eventually became only the fourth woman winemaker in California! She now consults for clients in Napa. Her Chardonnay is terrific. It’s beautifully layered and expressive, balancing richness with refreshing vibrancy. Notes of buttery pastry, ripe peach, and tropical fruit are complemented by a velvety texture and bright acidity. It was aged seven months in 45% one-year-old oak, 25% stainless steel, 20% new François Frères barrels, and 10% new Remind A barrels. It delivers depth, elegance, and a lively, clean finish—perfect for those who appreciate both classic structure and modern finesse.

Walter Hansel Chardonnay “Cuvée Alyce,” Russian River Valley, 2019 ($43.99) - Walter Hansel grew all kinds of produce before trying his hand at grapes. With his son, Stephen, he planted 257 Chardonnay vines in the 1970s and soon made about 50 cases each year of terrible wine. Stephen’s friend, Tom Rochioli, taught them how to make good wine, and the rest is history, with Hansel making some of the best and most interesting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in Sonoma. Cuvée Alyce, Hansel’s top single vineyard Chardonnay, is from their highest elevation plot and is named for Stephen’s late mother. Three clones are used: the Hyde/Wente, Hudson/ Wente, and French Dijon clone 95. These clusters are extremely small, and the berries are the size of BBs, offering rich and flavorful wines. Vinous: 95 “The 2019 Cuvée Alyce is a total knock-out. Rich, ample, and explosive, it possesses tremendous depth and textural elegance to burn. Citrus confit, white flowers, chamomile, and light tropical notes lend an exotic flair to this striking, beautifully delineated Chardonnay from Hansel.” Limited.

Anderson Family Vineyards Chardonnay, Willamette, 2021 ($49.99) – In the 1980s, Cliff and Allison Anderson found an ideal site in the hills of Dundee. It was a steep massif of broken stones, an ancient landslide of broken basalt. In 1992, Oregon wine pioneer Jack Meyers helped chisel out their vineyard on the steep, rocky slope. Today, they organically farm Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a tiny bit of Pinot Gris. The Chardonnay is made in a style that’s closer to Burgundy than L.A. It has good depth and nice acidity, lively and more interesting than most, with a moderate 13.9% alcohol. Decanter: 93 “Ripe honey-drizzled peach shows a real depth of fruit.”

Booker Vineyard My Favorite Neighbor “MFN” Chardonnay, San Luis Obispo, 2021 ($49.99) - This is a full-throttle, take-no-prisoners, old-style Chardonnay with the creamy, oaky richness to stand up to very flavorful food. The vineyard is farmed organically and biodynamically. Aged 8 months in 50% new and 50% neutral French oak. The rating in the Wine Advocate may have been a typo, but Erin Brooks clearly liked the wine: “97 The 2021 MFN Chardonnay is very ripe in style with scents of banana chip, apple pie, jasmine, allspice, and brown sugar. The full-bodied palate is packed with ripe, spicy fruits and plenty of refreshing acidity, and it finishes long with a satiny, mouth-coating texture. It’s an old-school style reminiscent of Napa that fans of ripe, oaked Chardonnays will enjoy. Drink 2023-28” Limited.

Brewer-Clifton 3D Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, 2022 ($75) - Greg Brewer is one of Santa Barbara’s greatest winemakers. Jeb Dunnuck: 97 “From a sandy 10-acre Sta. Rita Hills vineyard and brought up all in neutral oak. Its medium gold hue is followed by a ripe, exotic perfume of honeyed stone fruits, orange blossom, chalk, flower oil, and brioche-like nuances. This beauty is medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and incredibly textured with nicely integrated acidity, terrific mid-palate depth, and a finish that won’t quit. Don’t miss this beauty.” Very limited.

Parable Chardonnay A18, Atlas Peak-Napa, 2022 ($79.99) - What a wine! There’s nothing subtle here. It’s golden-hued, big (14.5% alcohol), and rich with plenty of oak, yet plenty of fruit. The finish goes on and on. Barrel-fermented, it went through partial malolactic fermentation and was aged French oak barrels, 50% new. Sourced from the Antinori Estate at an elevation just over 1000 feet. Originally from Burgundy, the Weimer Chardonnay clone produces very small berries and is low-yielding, with 1.5 tons/acre considered a good year! Parable Wines is the brainchild of Trey Eppright. With brother Matt and financial backing from father Fred, Trey bought the Dutch Henry property, which had been destroyed in the 2020 Glass Fire. He buys grapes from vineyards that would be considered Grand Cru if California had such a system. Winemaker Kale Anderson is known for his award-winning wines at Pahlmeyer and Cliff Lede.

SAUVIGNON BLANCS

Two Angels Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County, 2023 ($11.99) - Situated above the northeast shores of Clear Lake at the foot of Mount Konocti and at approximately 1360 feet, the vineyard that provides this wine gets up to 10% more UV light than its neighboring sea level valleys. This adds to the fruit ripeness of the grapes while keeping the alcohol in check at 12.5%. The wine has very nice varietal character without being aggressive. Soft, juicy, easy, and a great value! Tasting Panel: 92 “Fresh, crisp notes with waves of ripe pineapple, thyme, and oregano. Succulent grapefruit sorbet occupies the palate elevated by keen acidity.”

Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc, 2022, Sonoma ($20.99) - Our best selling domestic Sauvignon Blanc, this has it all: refinement, character without going New-Zealand-over-the-top, and balance with more acidity than is typical from California. Very well made! Technicals: contains 2.5% Semillon; 17% was fermented and aged in neutral French oak, the balance in stainless steel; 6.3 g/l acidity; 13.2% alcohol; grapes come from 9 different vineyards in 6 Sonoma sub-appellations.

Russian River Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc “Dutton Ranch,” RRV-Sonoma, 2023 ($21.99) - The Dutton family’s farming heritage goes back to 1881. In 1885, Warren Dutton Jr. and his wife, Gail, sold their fruit stand and expanded their vineyards and orchards. Today, the ranch controls 1100 acres. The list of wineries they sell to reads like a who’s who of Sonoma County: Dutton Estate, DuMOL, Dutton-Goldfield, Merry Edwards, Ramey, MacRostie, Patz & Hall, The Calling, Chappellet, Sonoma-Cutrer, Occidental, Kistler, and Rombauer! This Sauvignon Blanc captures the vibrant spirit of the varietal with a lively, fruit-forward profile and crisp, refreshing acidity. Aromas of ripe tropical fruits and a gentle hint of oak are joined by fragrant citrus and floral notes of lemon blossom. Rich and energetic, its bright acidity cuts through layers of juicy fruit, bringing balance and finesse. Smooth and easy to enjoy. Only $35 at the winery!

The Paring Sauvignon Blanc, California, 2023 ($26.59) - Matt Dees cut his winemaking teeth at Staglin (Napa) and Craggy Range (New Zealand). He is currently the winemaker at sister wineries Jonata and The Hilt, where he also makes his own wines under The Paring label. Although this carries a “California” designation, the grapes come from Santa Barbara. This beauty contains 8% Semillon and was aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French oak, and 1/3 stainless steel. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. This deliciously exotic wine shows tropical flavors with lemon, melon, and white peach. Its laser beam of acidity refreshes and cleanses the palate, while its decadent texture demands another mouthwatering sip.

Levendi Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville-Napa, 2024 ($29.99) - The Greek toast “Levendi” acknowledges a hard day’s labor and achievement. Levendi Winery was founded in the early 1990s by James Gianulias, his son David, and family friend Todd Rustman. Father and son had worked in the family real estate business, while Todd was and still is part-owner of a financial management firm. The winemaking consultant is Alison Doran. Alison’s father, Russell Green, had purchased Simi Winery in 1969 (when it was a winery and not just a brand) and soon brought in the legendary André Tchelistcheff (the winemaker at Beaulieu Vineyards for 35 years) as a consultant. Alison began working as a harvest intern and in the cellar beside André in 1973. He found her a five-month “cellar rat” position in Alsace for the crush of 1975, and she then took a part-time enologist position with a start-up winery in Paso Robles. Her first full-time job was with Firestone Vineyard in Santa Barbara, where she became only the fourth woman winemaker in California! She now consults for clients in Napa, one of which is Levendi. Alison’s Sauvignon Blanc is terrific. It’s quite varietal but not aggressive like those from New Zealand. Complex and nicely balanced, it has good acidity, yet it has a sensuous softness.

Bedrock Sauvignon Blanc, 2022, Sonoma ($33.99) - Known for their Zinfandels, Bedrock also makes this delicious white. The knockout bouquet of gooseberry, Granny Smith apple, lime peel, grapefruit, lemon, and cut grass are followed by a light-bodied palate that’s clean and fresh, with mouthwatering acidity and an appealing, rounded texture, finishing very refreshing.

OTHER AMERICAN WHITE WINES 

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier, 2023 ($15.95) - Chenin Blanc used to be as popular as Chardonnay. Now they are hard to find. This one is actually a blend of 80% Chenin and 20% Viognier. Soft and easy to like.

Fess Parker Winery Riesling, Santa Barbara County, 2023 ($16.89) - Those of us of a certain age remember the late American film and TV actor Fess Parker, best known for his portrayals of the title characters in the Walt Disney television miniseries (before miniseries were a thing) Davy Crockett and the NBC television series Daniel Boone. After retiring from acting in 1973, Parker devoted most of his time to his winery in Los Olivos, California. The operation is now run by his son, Eli, and daughter, Ashley, with over 1500 acres of vineyards. The tasting room is famous for the scene in the movie Sideways where Miles has a fit and exclaims, “I am not drinkin any f——— Merlot!” When Fess’ daughter, Ashley, visited Beekmans recently, she said that the winery’s name was supposed to appear in the movie, but her dad changed his mind because the set crew behaved like such jerks. The actors, however, were terrific.

The Riesling has a beautiful bouquet with some attractive petrol notes. It is a touch sweeter than its 12.0% alcohol would suggest, but it’s a lovely wine.

Ponzi Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley-Oregon, 2023 ($19.99) – Ponzi is one of Willamette’s first and now iconic wineries. Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to Oregon in the late 1960s, looking to make world-class Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, they purchased 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland. It was a daring risk — at the time, the Pacific Northwest was not thought to be a place to grow Pinot Noir, but the Ponzis thought northern Willamette’s climate was ideal for cool climate varieties. They planted Pinot Noir cuttings and founded Ponzi Vineyards in 1970. Today, their daughters are in charge. Anna Maria Ponzi is President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Luisa Ponzi is the winemaker. Their now-130 acres are LIVE Certified Sustainable, the highest standard for sustainable viticulture and enology. The Pinot Gris (called Pinot Grigio in Italy) is delightful: a lively bouquet of Bosc pears, apples, river stones, and white blossoms; a palate that's medium-bodied clean, soft & rounded in texture, and just a very pretty wine.

 The Italians call it Pinot Grigio. The French and almost everyone else call it Pinot Gris. "Gris" (gray) reflects the grape’s color in the vineyard, which ranges from grayish green to grayish pink. It is a mutation of Pinot Noir that is believed to have happened in France in the 14th century.

Fulcrum Dry Gewürtztraminer, Ferrington Vineyard-Anderson Valley, 2022 ($19.69) - David Rossi continues to impress us with quality and value (Cloisonné, On Point, and Fulcrum). Gewürztraminer is a fragrant but naturally low-acid grape. With its warm climate, most California versions are sweet, alcoholic, and flabby (low acid). David gets it right with only 5 g/l sugar (the threshold at which most people can just begin to detect any sweetness) and 13.2% alcohol. He adds a little acid to the must as is done in Alsace and Germany. David also uses the süssreserve technique, where the bulk of the wine is fermented absolutely dry, and some unfermented juice is added for freshness and liveliness. This technique is still used in Germany for some Rieslings. This dry wine has very good varietal character, a lovely texture, and a lengthy finish. Sushi, anyone? Ferrington Vineyard was originally planted in the 1970’s by Dr. Ferrington, a Santa Rosa dermatologist. It is a large property at 70 acres with mostly Pinot Noir but also some Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. The cool climate helps retain acidity, but it is warm enough to allow Gewürztraminer to ripen and achieve the russet color that indicates the perfect window for picking. 

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Blanc, 2022 ($26.99) - The Perrin family, owners of the wonderful Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, also have a property in Paso Robles, California where they make red and white wines from Rhône varietals. The blend varies each year; in 2019 it was 35% Grenache Blanc, 25% Rousanne, 19% Viognier, 14% Marsanne, and 7% Clairette Blanche. Very attractive and well-made with hints of earth, bruised apple, spice, and chamomile.

Mergerum M5 Estate, Los Olivos, 2021 ($27.99) – M5 White is a white Rhône-style blend similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. M is for Margerum, and 5 is for the five grapes that make up the blend: 47% Grenache Blanc, 23% Marsanne, 17% Roussane, 9% Viognier, and 4% Picpoul Blanc. The small amount of Viognier makes the bouquet sing and adds wonderful tropical notes to the palate. The wine is rich with complex flavors and a long finish, full, round, and pleasing with ample acidity to balance the richness. It was fermented and aged on the fine lees for 8 months in a mix of neutral French barrique, large puncheons, and stainless steel. A small portion went through malolactic fermentation to increase mouthfeel. A white wine that will age! Wine Enthusiast: 94 “Subtle aromas of chalk, lemon pith, nectarine, and chilled pineapple show on the nose. There’s a firm line of acidity and persistent chalky texture to the palate, where rounded flavors of stone fruits and coconut flesh make for a delicate yet expressive sip.”

Antiquum Farms Pinot Gris Daisy, Willamette-Valley, 2021 ($32.99) - Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio) rarely gets as good as this magnificent wine. It’s beautifully balanced and a pleasure to drink. Named for the owners’ daughter, it comes from 22-year-old vines cropped at a low three tons/acre. The grapes were pressed immediately after hand-picking. Primary and malolactic fermentation occurred spontaneously in 50% stainless steel and 50% neutral French oak, resting on the lees for 10 months to build texture and flavor. Antiquum Farms is a true farm and practices grazing-based viticulture whereby grazing animals (in this case Katahdin/Dorper sheep, Kune Kune pigs, chickens, geese, ducks, and guardian dogs) propel the cycle of nutrient generation in the vineyard. See www.antiquufarm.com for more information on this natural farming.

Ridge Vineyards Grenache Blanc “Adelaida Vineyard,” 2022 ($34.99) - Ridge Vineyards has been making stellar red wines (see below) since 1962. It has focused on Zinfandel-based blends from specific vineyards, Chardonnay, and of course, its world-class Monte Bello Cabernet made famous by its success (5th place) at the Judgement of Paris tasting of 1976. A white wine from Rhône grapes is a relatively new addition. Erin Brooks' description of the 2019 is spot on for the 2022: Wine Advocate: 92 “The 2019 Grenache Blanc Adelaida Vineyard combines 77% Grenache Blanc with 18% Picpoul and 5% Roussanne. It gives fresh orchard fruits with touches of beeswax, dried flowers, and spices on the nose, and the light-bodied palate offers intense, earth-laced flavors with a touch of anchoring texture and a long, uplifted finish. This has enough character to drink on its own but will pair well with a wide variety of foods. 880 cases were made.”