French White Burgundies

We have thousands of wines. Although we carry many national brands, that is not our focus. The following are well-made and generally more interesting wines that we are proud to recommend.

Cave des Vignerons de Mancey Mâcon-Villages Les Classiques, 2021 ($14.99) – At a time when most Mâcon wines are $20+, it’s a pleasure to find a modestly priced one. This comes from a co-operative, where economies of scale and a lack of advertising/promotion keep costs down. The grapes come from various growers in better villages within the district. The wine, 100% Chardonnay, won’t compete with the best of the region, but it offers solid value and good, everyday drinking.

Madame Veuve Point Bourgogne Blanc, 2020 ($19.99) – France has a long history of wineries being run by a widow (veuve). Veuve Clicquot is only the most famous example. Jeanne Marie Lassarat was born in 1877, the only child of grape growers in Vergisson (Mâcon). She worked with her parents from an early age and married Claude Point in 1895. Their only child, a son named Benoît Point, was born in 1899. and Claude died in 1903, leaving Jeanne-Marie a widow at the age of 26. To keep her vineyards, she learned even more about grape growing and worked harder than most men; she was still not accepted by the other growers of the village. Only by doing better than the men did she gain acceptance. Benoît fought in World War I and returned home in 1918 to work at the estate. He lived long enough to teach his great-granddaughter, Géraldine Point, who went on to work in the wine industry and has revived the name of her ancestors’ operation. The Bourgogne Blanc is a blend of 50% Mâcon with roughly equal parts Haut Côtes de Beaune and Haut Côtes de Nuits. It spends 12 months in 10% new oak and has a nice round texture. It’s a great value.

Collovray et Terrier Mâcon La Roche Vineuse “Sur le Fil,” 2021 ($24.99) - Mâcon wines are a fine introduction to white Burgundies, the pinnacle of Chardonnay. Two families joined forces to produce some lovely wines. The Collovray family began the venture in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in Davayé, where he specialized in goat’s cheese and various crops, including vines. His son, Henri, succeeded him in 1956, followed by his son, Christian, who devoted the farm exclusively to grape vines and brought in his childhood friend, Jean-Luc Terrier, who had gone to an agricultural college, specializing in viticulture. They happened to marry two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, also from a family of winegrowers. The Domaine (Domaine des Deux Roches) officially began in 1986. Their respective sons, Julien Collovray and Pierre-Alexis Terrier, are now actively involved. They farm 157 acres, mostly in Saint-Véran, Mâcon-Villages, and Mâcon La Roche Vineuse. This wine is fermented, 80% in stainless steel, and 20% in barrel (less than 10% new). With a magnificent, deep, and intensely gold color, the wine offers a heady perfume of vine flowers balanced with the freshness of white pepper. On the palate, the opulent, fatty, and chewy structure enhances the floral and fruity expression of Chardonnay.

Comte de Bernadotte Chablis, 2022 ($25.99) - Sorry, we have no romantic story to tell you about this wine; it’s just a brand name used by an importer. The wine probably comes from a co-op, but the quality-to-price ratio is superb. It’s pure, crisp, unoaked Chardonnay with fresh apple and white flower flavors lit by bright acidity and a nice touch of minerality. Vibrant!

Nadège and Emmanuel Fellot Bourgogne Blanc, 2023 ($23.99) - This small, organic domaine is nestled in the rolling hills of southern Beaujolais, in the town of Rivolet just north of Lyon. The Fellot family has cultivated this land since 1829, crafting wines that express the unique character of its diverse terroirs—from ancient granite to clay-limestone soils. This wine comes from a parcel of Chardonnay known as the Croix du Bois in the commune of Denicé, which neighbors Rivolet. The area is referred to as the Pierres Dorées, or golden stones, because of the prevalence of golden-hued limestone characteristic of many old buildings in and around Lyon. This plot was planted between 2002 and 2006 on clay-limestone soil with many ammonite fossils. The wine has pretty green apple and flowers on the nose and a round, almost creamy texture with lemon curd, vanilla, and toasted almond. It’s focused on the palate and medium-textured, with an excellent finish. It’s quite a white Burgundy value! 

Domaine Lucien Boillot Pinot Beurot “Les Grands Poissons,” 2011 ($29.99) - Loyal readers of our newsletter (both of you) know of our fondness for off-the-beaten-path wines. “Me too” sells best, but weird and wonderful wins our hearts. So here we have a library release (a small number of cases held back at the winery because the producer thinks it will age particularly well; 2022 is the current release): a 14-year-old white wine! Too old, you say? And it’s a Pinot Gris (aka Grigio). Definitely too old, you say? From Burgundy! How can that be, you ask? 

Well, here’s the story. We love a good story! Many hundreds of years ago, Cistercian monks owned most of the vineyards in Burgundy, France. Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio in Italy) was common in Burgundy then. It was sometimes called Pinot Beurot, from “burot” or “bure,” the robe worn by the monks). Most of it had disappeared by the 20th century, but a little continued to be planted. With the Appellation Controlée laws (1936), the only new white plantings allowed were Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Aligoté; the existing Pinot Gris was grandfathered but could not be replanted. Today, there are only a few acres left of Pinot Gris, and there are fewer of these ancient vines every year, as some inevitably succumb to old age. This comes from a 3.4-acre vineyard in Volnay. After malolactic fermentation, it is aged for 9 months in stainless steel. At this point in its evolution, it is honeyed, rich in texture, unique, and delicious. A real treat!

Domaine Olivier Morin Chitry Bourgogne Blanc “Constance,” 2022 ($25.99) and Bourgogne Blanc “Olympe,” 2022 ($33.99) – Chitry (she-TREE) le Fort is a village adjacent to Chablis. When the Chablis appellation was created in 1938, the town elders of Chitry declined to join. Big mistake! Had they joined the prestigious AOC, they could now be charging at least 20% more for their wines. Good for us! The vineyards share the exact same chalky, Kimmeridgian soils as Chablis. Olivier Morin left the music industry in 1992 to take over the family domaine, trading in his turntables for a tractor. He and his wife, Nelly, produce two cuvées from their 35 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards, which are plowed and grass-covered. Native yeasts are used. Constance comes from the younger vines. It’s aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks and released earlier with a fresh, light profile, while Olympe comes from 35-year-old vines and is aged 18 months in mostly used barrels to create a richer, fuller wine. Little or no filtration is used and only homeopathic doses of sulfur are added at bottling. The vineyards have been farmed ORGANICALLY since 2020 and are officially certified with this 2022 vintage.

Domaine Franz Chagnoleau Mâcon Clos St. Pancras, 2024 ($28.99) - This small estate is run by two very talented winemakers, Frantz Chagnoleau and his wife, Caroline Gon. Frantz has a degree in enology and cut his teeth working for Olivier Merlin in the Mâconnais. Caroline holds two degrees in agricultural engineering and enology; she worked at Napa’s Newton Vineyards before returning to France to work with Dominique Lafon as head winemaker for the very highly regarded Héritiers du Comte Lafon. As a friend and mentor, Dominque greatly influenced the couple, evident in their pure, terroir-driven Mâconnais wines. Their vineyards have been certified organic since 2013. This wine comes from hand-harvested 30+-year-old vines on the Montagne de Clessé near Viré. The windy, east-facing vineyard is on light limestone soil with small stones at an altitude of 785 feet. The wine is fermented (indigenous yeast) and aged in large, used French oak (foudre).

Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Blanc, 2019 ($26.99) - Vincent Girardin comes from a family of grape growers based in Santenay since the 17th century. In 1980, at the age of 19, he struck out on his own and began to make wine from five acres of vines he had inherited from his parents. The popularity of his wines allowed him to purchase more vineyards, some in very prestigious appellations, but his primary activity became as a negoçiant, buying grapes from other vignerons and making wines under his label. With his reputation, he was able to buy grapes from some of the best vineyard sites. Vincent sold his share of the company to his long-time partner, Jean-Pierre Nié, in 2012. This beauty is made from 50-year-old vines throughout the Côte de Beaune. The grapes were hand-picked, sorted, gently pressed, fermented with wild yeast, and aged for 11 months in 500-liter oak casks, 10% new. The wine has classic aromas of lemon, dried apples, and honeysuckle with a medium-bodied palate of spice, citrus zest, honey, and chalk notes as well as a satisfying finish.

Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2022 ($26.99) - Distant relatives of the famous Domaine William Fèvre, Nathalie and Gilles practice organic techniques on their 50 hectares of vineyards in Chablis (including 12.87 ha of Premier Cru and 2.3 ha of Grand Cru). They also own a 1.65-hectare parcel in the commune of Tonnerre (15 minutes east of the winery in Fontenay-près-Chablis). These vines have a southern exposure and are spaced between 6,500 and 7,000 per hectare on rich clay soils of Kimmeridgian calcareous marl with many fossilized oyster shells. The vines previously had trouble ripening fully in this marginal climate, but global warming has made a huge difference. The wine is barrel fermented and aged five months in the same barrels on the fine lees. It has excellent color, aromatics, body, and depth of flavor.

Clotilde Davenne Cote d’Auxerre Blanc, 2022 ($28.99) - Clotilde was the chief enologist for well-known Chablis producer Jean-Marc Brocard for 16 years before she began assembling her own domain, bottling her first vintage in 2005. She owns vines in Chablis Cote d’Auxerre, St. Bris, and Petit Chablis. She also purchases some Chablis 1er Cru and Grand Cru grapes. This interesting wine comes from Clotilde’s home vineyard in Préhy and could easily be confused with an AC or even 1er cru Chablis. The vines were planted on limestone in the 1970s. Unoaked, it spends up to 18 months on fine lees in stainless steel to accentuate the fruit. Burghound: “Cool, airy, and citrusy aromas of green apple and anise are complemented by the impressively dense, rich, and generously proportioned [flavors] before culminating in a bone-dry and youthfully austere finale. This is very good for what it is.” 

Cornu-Camus Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc “Les Godeaux,” 2023 ($29.99) - Cornu-Camus is not as well known as it deserves to be. It would probably get more press if it charged higher prices. Good for us that it doesn’t! Lydia Cornu & Christophe Pertuzot run the domaine, which was founded in 1981. They have 30 acres of vines in the Hautes Côte d’Or and the Côte de Beaune. Their farming practices are sustainable and lutte raisonnée (semi-organic: chemicals are used only when necessary). 

The S-l-B comes from 2.9-acre plot in the lieu-dit (named vineyard, but village level, not premier cru) of Les Godeaux, which sits at an average of 950 feet on a south-facing slope, just above the heart of Savigny’s 1er Cru Pinot Noir. The vines were planted in the late-1970s on soil that is brown-yellow marl over limestone. The grapes are harvested by hand followed by a 24-36-hour maceration and vinification in barrique with regular bâtonnage (lees stirring). The wine then ages 12 months in 20% new oak. This is a very nice white Burgundy with plenty of ripe fruit. It’s drinking really well already.

Cornu-Camus Pernand Vergelesses Blanc "Les Vignes Blanches," 2023 ($29.99) - Cornu-Camus is not as well known as it deserves to be. It would probably get more press if it charged higher prices. Good for us that it doesn’t! Lydia Cornu & Christophe Pertuzot run the domaine, which was founded in 1981. They have 30 acres of vines in the Hautes Côte d’Or and the Côte de Beaune. Their farming practices are sustainable and lutte raisonnée (semi-organic: chemicals are used only when necessary). 

From two plots in the lieux-dits of “Sous les Cloux” and “Les Vignes Blanches” (a combined 1.17 acres). The vines were planted in the 1980s and 2000s on a steep hillside (1050 - 1150 feet) on similar but even more calcereous soil, facing south-southwest. The grapes are given the same treatment except that 25% of the barrels are new. This has a comparable amount of fruit, but it’s a more structured Chardonnay and will benefit from another 6-12 months in the bottle. The S-l-B is more attractive now; the PV will end up being the better wine (slightly).

Château de Buxy Bourgogne Blanc, 2019 ($31.99) - Château de Buxy is located in Montagny, part of central Burgundy’s Côte de Chalonnaise. Laurent Cognard purchased the estate in 2006 and now has 45 acres of vineyards, divided between Loché, Montagny, and Mercurey. The estate will be certified organic beginning with the 2020 harvest. The owner is a bit quirky, with specific ideas of how to do things. For example, he believes 500-liter barrels are better than the standard 550-liter ones. So he pays extra for the less popular ones he prefers. The wine is, of course, 100% Chardonnay. It has a terrific texture and the fruit/oak/acid balance is impeccable.

Patrick Piuze 2023 White Burgundy arrivals

Patrick Piuze is a top-notch white Burgundy producer located in Chablis. A native of Montreal, he worked for Leflaive, Jean-Marc Brocard, and Jean-Marie Guffens before starting his own label in 2008. He purchases fruit from growers with old vines. Patrick is a bit of a maverick. While 90% of Chablis is machine-harvested, he has all his grapes harvested by hand. He uses a vertical press for some oxygen exposure instead of the more common pneumatic press. And instead of blending his wine from numerous plots, he makes cuvées from specific terroirs. He also uses native yeast and spontaneous malo-lactic fermentation. All the vines are farmed sustainably.

Bourgogne Blanc Tonnere Boutot ($31.99) - From a south-facing single vineyard in the commune of Vaulicheres, east of Chablis, this is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. Solid! 

Chablis Terroir de Chablis ($37.49) - From two north-facing parcels close to 1er Cru Montmains and fermented and aged in tank. It shows nice mandarine orange and stoney character.

Chablis Terroir de Fyé ($38.99) - This comes from a 6.25-acre parcel surrounding a small chateau near the Grand Cru hill, just opposite Blanchots. It is also aged entirely in stainless steel and has lovely floral aromatics with ripe pit fruit on the palate.

Chablis Terroir La Grand Vallée ($42.99) - This comes from the Les Pargues vineyard in the valley between 1er crus Montmains and Vaillons. It is considered a top site. The wine is aged 50% in neutral oak and 50% in stainless steel tanks. A little richer and more complex.

Domaine Vocoret & Fils Chablis, 2023 ($33.99) - The luscious 2022 Vocoret is now replaced by the equally wonderful 2023. Aged only in stainless steel, it surprisingly has the complexity and some of the Chardonnay flavor characteristics that are often enhanced by oak aging. This is a terrific white Burgundy, bursting with aromas and flavors of white flowers, green apples, and fresh pastry. It’s medium-bodied, succulent, and open-knit with soft acids and a clean finish. Like the 2022, it should age nicely. And best of all, at a time of significant general price increases, this price hasn't changed! Founded by Edouard Vocoret in 1870, the Domaine is now in its 4th generation. Cousins Jérôme, Patrice, and Sylvain Vocoret work the 99-acre estate, which includes plots within 6 premier cru (we carry the Tonneliere) and 4 grand cru vineyards.

Domaine Couturier Pouilly Fuissé "Clos Scellés, 2020 ($44.99) - The best Pouilly Fuissés rival basic Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault. In fact, it has just been granted Premier Cru status. Most people associate Pouilly Fuissé with large shippers like Louis Jadot and Louis Latour, but there are many small producers that make higher-level, sometimes single vineyard wines that superb white Burgundies and roughly half the price of Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet. Domaine Couturier produces such a wine. It’s perhaps the best Pouilly we’ve tasted. Certified Organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter)! Along with daughter Cladie and son Auxence, Marcel Couturier produces soulful wines with exceptional transparency, complexity, and depth. He works with parcels in several villages. This is a combination of grapes from very old vines (60-90 years) from his Clos Reyssié in the village of Chaintré and Les Scellés in Fuissé. Marcel allows spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast in Burgundy barrels, 25% new. The wine sits in used oak barrels for 11 months and is not racked until pre-bottling blending. Well-balanced with a rounded and smooth entry, it has nice acidity and becomes spicier toward the fairly lengthy finish. Special!

Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet, 2019 ($85.99) - White Burgundies have gotten very expensive, but there’s nothing like them. Good ones like this show a perfect balance between fruit, acidity, minerality, and oak. Wine Enthusiast: 94 Editors’ Choice “This is a perfumed, citrusy expression of village-level Chassagne-Montrachet packed with pert, juicy green-apple and Meyer-lemon flavors. While matured in 25% new oak, the fruit-focused wine balances its smokier, spicier intonations well alongside a bristling salty finish. Lovely young, the wine should maintain its peak through 2027.” Wine Spectator: 92 $116 “This is rich, harmonious, and expressive, delivering peach, citronella, pastry, and mineral flavors. Vibrant and detailed, this lingers on the finish with echoes of orchard fruit, baking spice, and mineral. Drink now thru 2025. 1,185 cases made, 40 cases imported.”