French White Loire

Jolie Folle Sauvignon Blanc, Val de Loire, 2022 ($17.99/liter) - We sold a lot of this wine when it was labeled Loca Linda (Crazy Pretty) Jolie. But its distributor went out of business, and we couldn’t get it for over four years. Now it’s back with a new distributor and crazy pretty as ever! Nothing serious or complicated here; just delicious, everyday Sauvignon Blanc. It’s been recommended several times in The New York Times (at $20).

Domaine de la Commanderie, Quincy, 2023 ($18.99) – Quincy (pronounced can-see, not as in John Quincy) is an AOC wine coming from two villages in the Loire Valley south-west of Sancerre. Like Sancerre, the wines are 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and although they never reach the quality heights of Sancerre because the soil features more sand and little limestone, they can come reasonably close and are much more attractively priced. This is one of the best examples with a zesty, crisp, and mellow Sauvignon character as opposed to the sometimes shrill, aggressive style from New Zealand. 

Born in Paris, but from a paysan family, Jean-Charles Borgnat had a passion for archeology. He studied Geology at university and worked for three years on oil rigs off the coast of Africa. He also worked as a volunteer in Algeria following his military service there. His route to winemaking came initially through marriage; his wife, Marié is from Preuilly, where her father farmed 120 hectares of grains. With no other heir, Jean-Charles found himself relocating to assist his in-laws, as a salaried worker, in 1981. The opportunity to diversify into wine came in 1993 when Borgnat purchased 1.5 hectares of young vines in La Commanderie, which is how he came to adopt the name. He was also one of four growers who bought vineyards from Jacques Rouzé, who needed to recapitalize after the great frost of 1991. Borgnat's first vintage was 1994. The wine is herbal and crisp with a green apple taste, with a finish of zesty lemon & clean minerality. Marvelous pairing with oysters! Gold medal, Concours Général Agricole.

Louise Chéreau Vices & Vertus Colère Folle Blanche, 2024 ($18.99) and Mythes & Légendes Pomone Sauvignon, 2023 ($18.99) - The Chéreau-Carré family has lived in the western Loire Valley since at least 1412. Today, Bernard and his daughter, Louise, oversee the estate. They farm organically and manage various domaines, namely Château de Chasseloir, Château de l’Oiselinière, Château de la Chesnaie, and Domaine du Bois Bruley. The diverse terroirs and soils result in a range of wines united by the commitment to purity, tension, and a classic interpretation of Muscadet. These wines do not carry the Muscadet label, for they are not made from the melon de Bourgogne grape. Both are only 11.5% alcohol. Pretty wines with pretty labels.

Vices & Vertus Colère is 100% Folle Blanche from 30-year-old vines on schist soil. It was aged for six months on the lees and has a very pretty, floral bouquet and flavor profile. Clean, refreshing, and balanced. Colère translates as “anger,” referencing the ocean’s profound effect on the wine, with its crisp, saline, and citrusy nature. Perfect with seafood 

The Mythes & Legendes Pomone is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Pomone is the Roman deity of fruits and a coy nymph known to favor well-manicured gardens over untamed nature. The Chéreaus chose her to represent Sauvignon Blanc, as the variety is highly sensitive to its environment but thrives when it is cared for with a delicate and intentional touch. Made from vines ranging from 20 to 30 years of age, this has a very attractive varietal character without the excess of New Zealand. Unaged (bottled directly from the tank after fermentation).

Domaine Karinne & Christian Lauverjat Menetou-Salon, 2024 ($23.99) - On a recent vacation in France, Joel stayed two nights at the bed and breakfast run by the Lauverjats in Sury-en-Vaux, one of the 14 villages in the Loire Valley’s Sancerre appellation. The family also owns vineyards in Pouilly-Fumé and Menetou-Salon. The Menetou-Salon appellation consists of 10 villages contiguous with and just west of the Sancerre appellation. Its soils and wines are similar to those of Sancerre, but they carry slightly lower prices simply because they are less well known. With the shortage and rising prices of Sancerre, Menetou-Salon wines are worth your consideration. This example is very similar to Lauverjat’s wonderful Sancerre, which is still recovering from three dreadfully small harvests in a row (ranging from 40%  to 60% of normal production). Lauverjat’s Sancerre Rosé is also delicious.

Domaine de Cray Montlouis sur Loire Sec, 2022 ($23.99) - WOW! This is a delicious Chenin Blanc! It has exceptional aromatics, is crisply dry, and has tons of character. An absolute winner and best served not too chilled! About 55 degrees is just right. Mountlouis-sur-Loire lies just across the Loire River from Vouvray and was allowed to use that better-known Appellation name until 1938, when the growers of Vouvray unneighborly kicked the Mountlouis-sur-Loire growers out of the appellation. The estate vineyards of Domaine de Cray have been in the same family for five generations. Most recently, in 2006, Michel Antier passed it on to his son, Antoine. It is spread over 185 acres (49 are planted to truffle oak trees) on the limestone plateaus overlooking the Loire between Tours and Amboise.

Domaine Pascal Balland Sancerre, 2022 ($23.99) – With three short vintages in a row and rising popularity, it’s getting hard to find Sancerres under $25. Balland dates to 1650 with various crops. In 1975, the domaine switched completely over to grape growing on its 22 acres in the prestigious village of Bué. It has a lovely nose full of flowers and tropical notes with a medium-light body. Fresh and easy on the palate, there’s an elegant balance of minerality and acidity. It was a little tight when it first arrived, but it has mellowed into a delightful wine.

Jean-Paul Picard Menetou Salon, 2023 ($23.59) - Sancerre is a rousing success story, but there’s trouble in paradise. The popularity of this upper Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc has grown tremendously over the last decade or so, but production is totally tapped out. There is no room for supply growth because the entire appellation is fully planted. Joel saw this firsthand when he visited the area last June; it’s a sea of vineyards with no land left to plant. Add to this three short vintages in a row, mostly due to frost, and there is currently a severe shortage. Prices have escalated, but the demand still exceeds the supply. Many Sancerre producers are expanding their holdings outside the official Appellation. Pouilly-Fume is similarly constrained, but Menetou Salon has room for growth. The wines from both these areas are very similar in style and quality to those of Sancerre (Quincy, Pouilly-sur-Loire, and Coteaux du Giennois are a notch behind but worth trying). Picard’s Sancerre is our best-selling Sancerre. The winery is one of the ones Joel got to visit on his trip. Because it’s less well-known, Menetou Salon also carries a friendlier price tag. This one is delicious, enjoyable now, with potential to develop for a few years. 

La Tour Saint Martin Menetou-Salon “Morogues,” Loire, 2023 ($23.99) - We carried this wonderful, mineral-driven Loire Sauvignon Blanc several years ago before it disappeared from the market. Now it’s back. Menetou-Salon is one of several regions close to Sancerre that make similar wines at slightly lower prices. In terms of quality, Pouilly-Fumé is the equal of Sancerre. Menetou-Salon, Quincy, and Coteaux du Giennois are generally a slight notch behind, but there’s a lot of overlap; the best examples are often better than run-of-the-mill Sancerres. La Tour Saint Martin is one of them. It sits just southwest of Sancerre on the same Kimmeridgian limestone soil. The irrepressible Bertrand Minchin returned home after completing his studies in 1987 and restored and replanted the vineyards his grandfather had planted - Sauvignon Blanc in the village of Morogues and scattered plots of Pinot Noir. These vines and his family’s traditional farmstead became La Tour Saint Martin in 1994 with the construction of a winery and his first vintage of Menetou-Salon. La Tour Saint Martin currently has almost 25 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and 17 of Pinot Noir. Bertrand adopted many sustainable practices: tilling the soils, adding organic compost, and green harvesting to balance the fruit development and vegetative growth of his vines. Most of the vines are harvested by hand, and each plot is vinified separately.

Domaine de la Tonnellerie Sancerre, 2024 ($24.99) - Between its justly deserved popularity, frost-induced shortages, recently imposed tariffs, and the weaker dollar, Sancerres under $25 may soon be a thing of the past. This is quite a value, given that it comes from the clay-limestone soils in the prestigious village of Bué. Aged in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, it is best served at 46-50 degrees with seafood. Put a few bottles away for 2 or 3 years to see the structure develop and the initial bouquet transform into a more subtle Sauvignon perfume.

Domaine Moreux-Corty Pouilly-Fumé Artisan-Intro, 2023 ($24.99) - The 1955 marriage of Jeannine Corty and Raymond Moreux united two ancestral families of the Loire Valley from each side of the river. The Corty family were producers in Pouilly since 1677, and the Moreux family were producers in Sancerre since 1702. Their grandsons, Arnaud and Julien Moreaux, joined in 2009 and 2011, respectively, and represent the 14th generation of vigneron! With 99 acres of vines, Moreaux-Corty makes three different Pouilly-Fumés and a Sancerre. This is their entry-level Fumé, a blend of three terroirs, the majority around Des Loges village. As Jeb Dunnuck wrote, “It’s one hell of an entry-level wine and is going to shine on the dinner table.”

Domaine Karinne & Christian Lauverjat Pouilly-Fumé, 2023 ($25.99) - On vacation in France in 2022, Joel stayed two nights at the bed and breakfast run by the Lauverjats in Sury-en-Vaux, one of the 14 villages in the Loire Valley’s Sancerre appellation. The Loire River separates Sancerre from Pouilly-Fumé. The soils are similar, and differences between the two wines are subtle, with Pouilly-Fumés tending to be just slightly softer and broader with slightly lower acidity and the occasional smokey note (hence the name). Interestingly, Pouilly-Fumé was the more popular of the two in the 1980s and 1990s but was eclipsed by Sancerre in the 21st century, perhaps because it's simply easier for Americans to pronounce.

Emile Balland Coteaux du Giennois “La Grand Chemin,” 2020 ($24.99) – This very fine Loire Sauvignon Blanc is one of those wines we love but find difficult to sell. Very Sancerre-like, it’s far better than lesser Sancerres in the same price range, yet most people will buy Sancerre over this simply because of the name. A few things set this apart. First, it comes from 50-60-year-old biodynamically farmed vines on flint and clay-limestone soils. Second, it was fermented (natural yeast) and aged in mostly neutral oak, something only the most expensive Sancerres see. Third, it was aged on the lees until the following harvest, blended, and then aged another 6 months in tanks, giving it more maturity and finesse than wines that are rushed out the door. It doesn’t taste at all oaky, but the wood rounds out the texture. A wine of excellent balance and good length, this is a winner.

Sergent du Roy Sancerre Blanc “Au Fil du Temps,” 2023 ($25.99) - This beauty comes from Jean Millériou, whose family has grown grapevines since the 19th century. His vineyards are located in the hamlet of Champtin, just west of the village of Sancerre, on Terres Blanches soil of marl and white limestone. This ancient soil dates to the Kimmeridgian Age of the Jurassic Period, about 145 million years ago. Sergent du Roy is Jean’s favorite plot, with 30-year-old vines. The grapes are sorted and immediately but very gently pressed. The must undergoes cold settling for 12-24 hours to eliminate coarser particles. Fermentation lasts 15 days in stainless steel at 61˚. The bone-dry result has a lovely pale yellow color and floral, citrus, and mineral nuances. Fresh, complex, and lingering. Classic Sancerre! Recommended serving temperature is 48-50˚, so a half hour out of the refrigerator

Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre "Le Chemin de Marloup," 2024 ($31.99) – One of our favorite Sancerres and our best seller! Sancerre has been under price pressure. Spring hail reduced yields in 2016 and 2017, and then again in 2019, 2020, and 2021, leading to price increases. Located in central France at the eastern end of the Loire Valley, Sancerre mostly sits on the Kimmeridgian Ridge, a geological marvel that runs from the white cliffs of Dover through Sancerre and on to Champagne and the Grand Cru of Chablis. These famous regions share limestone and clay soils that contribute to the body and flavor profile of their wines. Sancerre's hints of Silex and caillottes gravel are simply the best soil for Sauvignon Blanc; no other Sauvignon Blanc compares to Sancerre's combination of clean fruit, solid acidity, depth of mineral character, and overall balance and refinement. As Sancerre is a large appellation, the best villages have developed their own reputation for quality. Picard's small (10 hectares) holdings are in the village of Bué, considered one of the finest. The vineyard slopes surrounding this hamlet have outstanding clay-limestone soils, sunny southwestern exposures, and ideal elevations. This wine's mineral components, elegance, and balance make it an ideal match for a range of white meat and fish dishes. Joel got to visit Picard on his trip to Sancerre in 2022. We also carry their lovely rosé and their top red (Pinot Noir).

Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol, 2021 ($31.99) - This is our second vintage with this delightful Sancerre. It has distinct straw notes that complement grapefruit, lemon curd, and gooseberry flavors with some minerality. Drinking really well now. Newer vintages will be more expensive.

Domaine Karinne & Christian Lauverjat Sancerre, 2023 ($31.99) - One of our favorite Sancerres, we've been carrying the Lauverjat family's Sancerre for over ten years. It has been consistently delicious and well-made. The family grows grapes and wheat. The Lauverjat family has been growing grapes in Sancerre for generations in the tiny village of Sury-en-Vaux. Husband-and-wife team Christian and Karine have 12 hectares of vines in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. They have transitioned to sustainable viticulture. For example, they use seaweed to combat disease, reducing chemical intervention, and they grow grass between the rows to prevent erosion. In the cellar, the whites are made in thermo-regulated tanks. Several years ago they invested in a new clay filtration system that allows them to very gently filter the wines without stripping them of their character. We are very fond of their wines. We also carry their lovely rosé of Pinot Noir. Joel got to visit them in 2022 and stayed at their small bnb.

Michel Thomas Sancerre Sil’Ex, 2022 ($31.99) - This is only slightly more expensive than most Sancerres today, but it is a step above. In 1970, Michel Thomas and his son, Laurent, took over from Michel's father, who started the estate in 1946. The total production is about 10,000-12,000 cases per year. At Egrots is a little hamlet in Sury en Vaux, about 4 kms from Sancerre, Michel and Laurent Thomas have 42 acres of vineyards in 40 different parcels in four different villages, planted on three different types of soil, 40% Terre Blanche-Argilo-Calcaire, 40% Caillottes-calcaire, and 20% Le Roc-Silex. The soil determines the nature of the wine. High limestone content produces fruitier wines suited to early drinking. Soil with more clay produces wines with a deeper texture that allows them to be laid down for some time. Sil’Ex, or Silex, is the hardest soil and produces a wine rich in minerals and fruity aromas that can be laid down for many years. The siliceous soil imparts pleasant notes of fruit and a dry, smoky, mineral flavor. This wine is their smallest cuvée with only 400 cases made annually. It is produced using traditional methods (no wood) and without filtration. It’s an intensely aromatic and concentrated Sauvignon with great concentration and excellent balance. It has aromas of fresh herbs, with flavors of citrus, ripe gooseberry, apple, and a hint of gunflint. SOLD OUT. Waiting for a new vintage and presumably a new price.

Lauverjat Sancerre Perle Blanche Vieille Vignes, 2023 ($34.99) – This is the old vine version of the Lauverjat Sancerre that we have carried for years. The Lauverjat family has been growing grapes in Sancerre for generations in the tiny village of Sury-en-Vaux. Husband-and-wife team Christian and Karine have 12 hectares of vines in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. They have made improvements over the years, including a transition to sustainable viticulture. For example, they use seaweed to combat disease, reducing chemical intervention, and they grow grass between the rows to prevent erosion. In the cellar, the whites are made in thermo-regulated tanks. Several years ago they invested in a new clay filtration system that allows them to very gently filter the wines without stripping them of their character. The wines from Lauverjat undoubtedly represent some of the best values to be had from the appellation.

Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol Clos Beaujeau, 2021 ($39.99) - From a single vineyard, this is richer and fuller than the already wonderful Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol that we have carried for two vintages. It has distinct straw notes that complement grapefruit, lemon curd, and gooseberry flavors with an herbal flash on the crisp finish. Nice minerality. A special Sancerre.

Domaine Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol, 2024 ($40.99) - ORGANIC! The new vintage just arrived. We still have a little of the 2023 at the same price. This family domaine can trace its history back to 1380, when land records mention a Jean Boulay as owner of vineyards in Chavignol. The village was even then known for the quality of its white wine, which is remarkable because Sancerre was mostly a red wine area until after phylloxera. Eight of Boulay’s 9 hectares are on Kimmeridgian (terre blanche) soils similar to that of Chablis. The average vine age is 45 years. This is one of the most distinctive and soil-inflected Sauvignon Blancs in the Loire, with a delineation and minerality reminiscent of top Chablis. Boulay’s wines are gorgeous, highly complex, and can easily age for 10-20 years.

Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Le Tournebride, 2021 ($46.99) - We've never had the opportunity to taste these wines, but Gaudry has perhaps the finest reputation in all of Sancerre. Consistently high scores from reviewers. Limited.

Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Melodie de Vieilles Vignes, 2021 ($62.99) - We've never had the opportunity to taste these wines, but Gaudry has perhaps the finest reputation in all of Sancerre. Consistently high scores from reviewers. Very limited.

Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Constellation du Scorpion, 2021 ($77.99) - We've never had the opportunity to taste these wines, but Gaudry has perhaps the finest reputation in all of Sancerre. Consistently high scores from reviewers. Very limited.