French Bubblies

We have thousands of wines. Although we carry many national brands, that is not our focus. The following are well made and generally more interesting wines that we are proud to recommend.

FRENCH CHAMPAGNE

We are proud of our Champagne selection. We have most of the popular ones, but we focus on lesser-known, better values. Most of the following are as good as or superior to Champagnes like Veuve Clicquot and Moet. They are all much better values. This is a partial list.

Paul Laurent Brut Cuvée du Fondateur, NV ($37.99) - One of the few remaining family and independently-owned Champagne Houses. Owned by the Gruet family, one member of which started the eponymous sparkling wine house in New Mexico! Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 88 'Aromas of pear, macadamia nut, & fresh pastry. Medium-bodied, easygoing & accessible, it's soft and nicely balanced. This is already drinking well.'

Emile Paris Reserve Personnelle Brut, NV ($39.99) - The name sounds suspiciously made up, but there really was an Emile Paris who started this Champagne brand in 1884. His son partnered with Philiponnat in 1940 to make the Champagne at Philiponnat's facility, but the brand disappeared, a small part of the wreckage of World War II. The brand was resurrected in 2014 by négociant Patrick Bigar.  Sourcing from the house’s original vineyard sites, which had since been supplying grapes to Champagne monolith Philipponnat, Patrick enlisted the assistance of Gérard Cuperly as head winemaker. The first bottling under the new Emile Paris label was made in 2017 at Champagne Cuperly and consists of only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is not our most refined Champagne, but it's awfully good and the price is terrific for true French Champagne.

Champagne L'Hoste Brut Origine, NV ($39.99) - The L’Hoste Père et Fils is located in the village of Bassuet near Châlons-en-Champagne in the Côte de Blancs region, where most of the Champagnes are made with white Chardonnay grapes. This house blends and assembles Champagne in several styles, including this Brut, which has plenty of bright and fresh fruit character and depth of aroma and flavors. Unlike some bubblies that simply fade away on the palate, this wine lingers long with lively effervescence, vibrant flavors, and an elegant mouthfeel. A perfect wine to enjoy as the starting point of your next celebratory meal. Pair this with freshly shucked oysters or a crab and avocado salad. Surprisingly good for the price.

Frerejean-Taittinger Cuvée Brut Premier Cru, NV (sale: $39.99; was $49.99) – The three Taittinger brothers (Guillaume, Richard, and Rodolphe) sold the famous Grand Marques Taittinger to LVMH and launched their own (new and obviously much smaller) Champagne house with relatively new vines in premier cru (rated 90 and higher) vineyards. The Cuvée Brut is 50% Chardonnay from the Côte de Blancs, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier, both from Grauves. The final blend is aged for five years, and then given a dosage of only 6.5 g/L at disgorgement, making the wine quite dry. It shows maturity, class, and good intensity of flavor.

Champagne L'Hoste Prestige Terroir de Chardonnay, NV ($49.99) - The L’Hoste Père et Fils is located in the village of Bassuet near Châlons-en-Champagne in the Côte de Blancs region, where most of the Champagnes are made with white Chardonnay grapes. This house blends and assembles Champagne in several styles, including this Blanc de Blancs, which is elegant, refined, and a steal for the price!

Château de Boursault Brut Tradition Non-Vintage ($49.99) – Yes, this is a real château in Champagne! But it’s not just any château. It is a spectacular Neo-Renaissance-style edifice located 10 km west of Epernay and built on the ruins of a fortified castle that belonged to the Barons de Boursault. It resembles the famous Château de Chambord in the Loire Valley and boasts 365 doors and windows. And it was built by MADAME CLICQUOT in 1843 as a gift to her daughter. Boursault became one of the most popular places in the region: memorable gatherings and famous dinners where Champagne flowed and Madame Clicquot, the “Queen of Reims,” presided over the high society of Champagne. She also received customers at these lavish ceremonies. She retired at Château de Boursault at age 64 and died at the age of 89. During World Wars I and II, the château was converted into a military hospital, taking in wounded American soldiers from the famous 101st Airborne Division in 1945. Today, the chateau is surrounded by vineyards that provide nearly all of its grapes. This is a classic Champagne that spent 3 years on the yeast. Inexpensive but delicious! A much better value than the very popular Clicquot Yellow Label.

Champagne Brigandat Brut Blanc de Noirs, NV ($49.99) - SUCH A GREAT VALUE! Laurent Perrier still buys 40% of the annual production from this true grower Champagne, but Bertrand Brigandat began making wine under the family name in 1993 and now makes about 4000 cases per year (Clicquot makes several million!). Farming is organic but not certified. This cuvée is 100% Pinot Noir and spent three years aging sur latte. The dosage is 9 g/l, but the effect is quite dry yet with good fruit and impeccable balance. This is really good!

Jean Velut Premier Temps, NV ($49.99) - Typically 88% chardonnay, 12% pinot noir. The current release is a blend of 70% of 2017 and 2018 base wine and reserve stocks of 20% from reserve solera. Base wines are fermented and aged in tank. Aged four years sur lattes. 6-7 g/l dosage. 

Montgueux, in the Aube, was a completely unknown satellite commune of Champagne where people grew grains and some grapes to make wine for personal consumption. But in the early 1970s, as the demand for Champagne began to grow, Jean Velut realized that he was, literally, standing on a new future for him and his family. Along with a handful of maverick vignerons, Jean began planting up the steep, chalky slopes with the most favorable expositions, and the most frost-resistant micro-climates. Since then, Jean’s son, Denis, and now grandson, Benoit, have continued to work this land and make exceptional Champagne. Benoit is especially taking quality to new heights at the domain.

Since returning home to work with his father – after training at such diverse properties as Lafarge, Pibarnon, and Piper-Heidsieck - Benoit is beginning to move the vineyard work to fully organic practices, a challenging task in the climatic conditions of Champagne. Denis and Benoit have just one full-time employee in the vines. Insecticides are not used, and the Veluts work hard plowing between the rows and vines to avoid herbicides.

Gonet-Medville Brut Blanc de Noir Premier Cru, NV ($49.99) - Very limited! Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 93 "Disgorged in July 2018, the new release of Gonet-Medeville's NV Brut Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs is showing very well, offering up an appealing bouquet of crisp golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, warm biscuits, and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad, and vinous, with ripe but racy acids, good depth at the core, and a delicate mousse. Concentrated and structured, another year on the cork will be rewarded by additional complexity, even though this is approachable now. Drink 2020-2035

"I met bordelais Julie Médeville in Reims earlier this year when she presented me with a small but fine collection from the nine-hectare domaine she founded with champenois Xavier Gonet 18 years ago. The couple works the soils and doesn't chaptalize, fine, or filter any of the wine, which also doesn't go through malolactic fermentation. They ferment largely in oak barrels and represent a ripe and powerful but fresh style with good aging potential."

Champagne Pierre Boëver Des Dames de France GRAND CRU, Non-Vintage ($54.99) - Grand Cru Champagnes come from only the best villages in the district, those rated 100 (the highest rating). This exceptional value comes from a third-generation grower Champagne producer. It's a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Thomas Boëver and his wife, Laure, have run things since 2005. The grapes for this cuvee come from their oldest vineyards; the vines are a minimum of 40 years old! Traditional Coquard presses are used so as not to rush the grapes during this crucial phase, and gravity vats are used for the transfer of wines to avoid untimely oxygenation. We tasted this two Saturdays ago. Delicious!

Paul Goerg Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru À Vertus,  NV ($56.99) - The Goerg Tradition Brut was a real hit several years ago. We chose not to continue with it when a new distributor raised the price substantially. Now they have brought the price back down to where it competes very favorably with the name brands. The Brut is temporarily unavailable, but the Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) is fabulous. This release hasn’t been reviewed, but it’s even better than the previous batch, reviewed in 2022: Wine Spectator 90 $65 “Creamy and balanced, with a fresh spine of citrusy acidity backing a subtle range of crunchy pear, almond paste, preserved lemon, and minerally hints of oyster shell and smoke.” Founded in 1950, Paul George is located in Vertus, 95-rated Premier Cru village in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. It is actually a small coop consisting of eight families of grape growers with a total of 120 hectares of vines. The main vintage (2020 or 2021) represents 60% of the blend; 40% is reserve wine. It carries a dosage of 8g/L and will develop even more complexity with another few years or in the bottle. We tasted this last Saturday. Delicious!

Bruno Paillard Brut Premier Cuvee, Non-Vintage ($69.99) - Very limited!  Bruno Paillard is one of the youngest and most ambitious Champagne houses that exclusively produces Champagnes in an Extra-Brut style. It is hard to find, but we have some! Wine Advocate (Stephen Reinhardt): 92 "Paillard's NV Première Cuvée, disgorged January 2018 as Extra Brut, offers a fresh and delicate nose with bright fruit aromas intermixed with delicious brioche and vanilla notes. After three years on the lees, the palate is pure, straight, and fresh, with a lovely mineral background, great elegance, and finesse. The finish is salty and remains pure, very stimulating and delicate. Highly stimulating. Drink 2019-2027"

Philippe Gonet Reserve a Les Mesnil, NV ($57.99) - Founded in 1830, Champagne Philippe Gonet is managed by siblings Pierre and Chantal Gonet. The estate spans 23 ha of vines (20% in Le Mesnil plus parcels in the Côte des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne, and more recently in Montgueux). This beautiful wine is a blend 60% Pinot Noir from Montgueux, Le Breuil, Fontaine sur Ay, Vertus, and Vindey; 30% Chardonnay from Montgueux; and 10% Pinot Meunier from La Chapelle-Monthodon. Despite its intense bouquet and flavor profile, it is remarkably refined. Jancis Robinson: 16/20 “Mainly Pinot, based on 2016. The back label gives a lot number which can easily be decoded to give the disgorgement date. Quite a high percentage of reserve wines and dosage never more than 7 g/l. Interesting yeasty nose. Good balance. This may be based on a fairly recent vintage but it’s a wine full of charm and personality.”

Autréau de Champillion Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, NV ($65.99) – It’s astonishing that people will pay so much for Clicquot when there are better, Grand Cru (!) Champagnes available for the same price or even less. Autréau is virtually unknown, but that is why the family charges so little for such high quality. The Autréau family has been growing grapes since 1670 and making Champagne since 1953. They have approximately 35 hectares of vines in five different terroirs in Premier Cru and Grand Cru (in Chouilly and Aÿ). Gérard, Eric, and now Laurent Autréau are the three generations currently involved. 

Champagne Mouzon Leroux L’atavique Extra Brut Tradition, Verzy-Grand Cru, NV ($59.99 net) - For less than the cost of the ubiquitous (C’mon, man, try something different. And better!), you can get a fabulous grower Champagne (family-owned, small production). And it just happens to be a Grand Cru (exclusively from vineyards with a 100-point rating). This absolute steal is a blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay from three separate Grand Cru parcels in Verzy. It spent 10 months in barrel and then 28 months on its lees in the bottle before disgorgement. It’s also certified ORGANIC and BIODYNAMIC. The previous bottling was reviewed by the Wine Spectator: 92 “Harmonious with a well-integrated frame of firm acidity and a fine, lively bead carrying notes of chopped almond, black currant, lemon pith, and cherry blossoms. Reveals a streak of salty minerality on the finish.” And Anthony Galloni: “A fine introduction to this range from Sebastien Mouzon. Deep and expansive, with terrific energy, the L’atavique captures the wiry intensity of Verzy nicely. The low dosage (smaller dose of sugar) emphasizes that further. Lemon confit, dried flowers, and chamomile linger on the taut finish.”

Legras & Haas Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Chouilly, NV ($62.99) - So much better than the big house Champagnes like Cliquot and Moët. Legras & Haas was established in 1991 and is now run by brothers Rémi, Olivier, and Jérôme Legras. Each village in the Champagne district is rated on a scale of 80 to 100. Because Chouilly is rated 100, it is allowed to put “Grand Cru” on the label. Chouilly, the most northern Grand Cru village in the Côte des Blancs, is the birthplace of the Legras-Haas family and the foundation of their wines. The family cultivates 35 small parcels totalling almost 45 acres in these outstanding hills. 

Chouilly benefits from a primarily Eastern and Northern exposure with gently sloping hillsides and lowlands which impart richness and strength to the wines. Chouilly subsoil is mostly hard “Belemnites” chalk. The most western plots, closest to Epernay, as well as the northern and eastern sides of the “Mont Aigu“ are composed of a more ancient “Quadrata” deposit. Chouilly benefits from a primarily Eastern and Northern exposure with gently sloping hillsides and lowlands, which impart richness and strength to the wines. Chouilly subsoil is mostly composed of hard “Belemnites” chalk. The most western plots, closest to Epernay, as well as the northern and eastern sides of the “Mont Aigu“ are composed of a more ancient “Quadrata” deposit. These sedimentary rocks are unique in that they can store up to 40% of their volume in water, thereby providing the vine with consistent levels of humidity and protecting from drought. The Partelaines sector, which borders Épernay in the West and Mont Aigu in the East, impart delicate aromas and intense freshness while the heart of the village gives the wines depth and poise.

The result is nothing short of remarkable, wines are approachable early on and display a rich, aromatic and graceful style. The wines win over amateurs and experts alike; silky textures and an approachable style paired with complexity and potential for bottle age is the signature of an outstanding terroir like this.

Francois Secondé Brut Rosé, NV ($62.99) - Secondé is the only grower Champagne made in the Grand Cru (100-rated) village of a Sillery; all the rest is sold to LVMH and blended into Moët’s vintage Champagne. Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 90 “Bursts from the glass with an inviting bouquet of rose petals, Griotte cherries, red apples, and orange rind. It’s medium to full-bodied, broad, and fleshy with a ripe core of fruit, a youthfully frothy mousse, and succulent acids, concluding with an expansive finish. This is a charming, fruit-driven rosé.”

Brigandat Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, 2019 ($65.59) - Sadly, there are only a few bottles left, and the new vintage won't be released for at least a year! Such a great Champagne at such a fair price! Laurent Perrier still buys 40% of the annual production from this true grower Champagne, but Bertrand Brigandat began making wine under the family name in 1993 and now makes some 4000 cases per year. Farming is organic but not certified. This is 100% Pinot Noir from 55-year-old vines in the ‘Buché’ vineyard in Channes. Bertrand considers this an extra brut even though it has 6 g/l dosage.

Saint Chamant Brut Rosé, NV ($89.99) - Arguably our best rosé Champagne. Wonderful! Made by Christian Coquiette, uncle of Stephane,

Vilmart  & Cie Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier, NV ($82.50) - Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 91 "The July 2019 disgorgement of Vilmart's NV Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier is showing nicely, and it has hardly evolved in the last year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, waxy citrus rind, bee pollen, white flowers, and blanched almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, taut, and incisive with racy acids, chalky structuring extract, and a pretty pinpoint mousse. This is based on the 2016 harvest with reserve wines from the 2015 and 2014 vintages. Driink 2022-45.

"Since 1989, Laurent Champs has been in charge of Vimart et Cie, one of the finest addresses in the Montage de Reims. Most of his holdings—11 hectares spread over just 12 parcels planted with 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir—are around the domaine in Rilly-la-Montagne, south of Reims. All parcels are south or southeast exposed, so quite warm. Champs ferments all of his wine in wood, with the non-vintage wines in large oak casks and the vintages in barriques. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, which gives the bright and shining, very alluring wines of Vilmart a racy-fresh and finessed character."

Ayala Blanc de Blancs, 2013 ($109.95) - Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 94 $110 "Disgorged in November 2018, Ayala's 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs offers up an elegant bouquet of lemon oil, English walnuts, crisp yellow apples, linden blossom and hints of praline to come with bottle age. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with racy acids, a delicate mousse and a fine-boned, elegant profile. Concluding with a long and nicely defined finish, this vibrant and intense wine is one of the finest wines Ayala has released for some time. Drink 2020-2040"

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, NV ($109.95) -Truly wonderful! Joel used this at his wedding! Delamotte is a separate property from Salon but with the same winemaking team. It is one of the best values among high-quality Champagnes. The grapes come from some of the Champagne district's best villages (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, and Oger). In years when Salon is not made, the grapes that would otherwise go into Salon will go into Delamotte! Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 93 "The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs, the house's emblematic bottling, is once again showing very well, bursting with aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread, nougat, crisp stone fruit, and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample, and pillowy, with a fleshy core of fruit, bright acids, and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it's a seamless, elegant wine that concludes with a flavorful finish. Drink 2022-2038

"Since its acquisition in 1988 by Laurent-Perrier, Delamotte has been twinned with Salon, one of Champagne's most prestigious small houses. Delamotte has both gained and lost by the association: gained, in that some of Salon's reputation has tended to rub off on Delamotte, and lost because Delamotte is frequently portrayed—though not by the house's team, of course—as something of a "second wine" to Salon. Though both are Chardonnay specialists emphasizing their home village Mesnil-sur-Oger, in reality, the styles are quite distinct. Delamotte's wines undergo malolactic fermentation and, in profile, are creamier, more textural, and giving, displaying an elegantly autolytic character while eschewing any extremes of Maillard-derived toastiness."

Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois, 2007 ($179.95) - Very hard to come by! Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 96 "The 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François continues to show beautifully, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet orchard fruit, citrus oil, clear honey, white flowers, buttery pastry, and warm biscuits. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy, and incisive, with racy acids, a vibrant core of fruit, and a pillowy, elegant profile, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.

"My most recent visit with vineyard director Denis Blee and cellar master Florent Nys was a great opportunity to get up to date with what's happening at Billecart-Salmon. This important house is the proprietor of 100 hectares, and it is contracted to farm another 100 or so hectares from whence they purchase the fruit. They purchase fruit from another 100 or so hectares that they don't farm. To manage this extensive vignoble, Billecart has four viticultural centers—in Oiry, Mailly, Damery, and Aÿ—equipped with 13 tractors, a number that will surely continue to climb, since 2020, the house has abandoned the use of chemical herbicides. In the winery, cold fermentation to preserve purity and expressive fruit has long been Billecart's calling card, and that continues today, in 47-hectoliter tanks of either stainless steel or wood, maintained at 13 degrees centigrade and with malolactic fermentation completed or not depending on the vintage. Little by little, a barrel program has been established and refined without changing Billecart's DNA: today, five-year-old barrels are purchased secondhand and initially used for the "tailles" (heavier press fractions) before they are deemed sufficiently neutral to contribute to cuvées such as the Brut Sous Bois. Another development is investment dedicated to increasing the proportion of reserve wines, which now routinely surpasses 50% for the Brut Réserve. Recent releases from Billecart have been excellent and show all that work very clearly."

Egly-Ourier Brut Millesime Grand Cru, 2011 ($275) - Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 95 "Egly's 2011 Brut Grand Cru Millésime may not have the volume of the 2012 or the authority of the 2013, but it is a very successful wine in its own right and one of at most two or three candidates for the title of Champagne of the vintage in this challenging year. Offering up attractive aromas of golden orchard fruit, praline, honeycomb, and subtle hints of mocha, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy, and vinous, with chalky structuring extract, racy acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, concluding with an impressively persistent finish.  Drink 2022-35"

OTHER FRENCH BUBBLIES - superb values!

J. Laurens Graimenous Blanquette de Limoux "Le Moulin," NV ($21.49) - From the foothills of the Pyrenees, this sparkling wine is stupidly good for its price. It's a blend of Mauzac and Chardonnay grapes. There is nothing complex here, but the very attractive pear and apple flavors are pure and classy. Dry, but nicely balanced. SO much better than even the best Proseccos! Decanter: "The producer’s regular méthode traditionelle is also an excellent crowd-pleasing apèritif style."

Eugene Carrell Brut Cremant Savoie, NV ($20.99) - Eastern France’s Savoie region neighbors Switzerland. Its wines aren’t exactly popular outside of the region, but they are slowly developing a good international reputation. This exquisite value comes from clay-limestone soils and is a blend of 60% Jacquère and 20% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It was aged for 16-18 months on the lees and has surprisingly fine bubbles and more finesse than you would expect at this price.

J. Laurens Graimenous, Limoux, NV ($25.99) - The J. Laurens Limoux (see above) is one of our best-selling non-Prosecco sparklers. Just a few dollars more is this Limoux winery’s flagship wine, Gramenous, also a terrific value. Decanter: 93 “60% Chardonnay, 30% Chenin Blanc, 5% Mauzac Blanc. Complex nose, full of citrus fruits and wildflower honey. It is immediately impactful but with a lightness of touch. Crisp green apples supported by lemon and lime juiciness, good acidity keeping it refreshing. Balanced, and a more serious wine in some ways, so it would be excellent with food. Incredible value wine, on which the reputation of this estate was built, and a seriously delicious alternative to Champagne. The producer’s regular méthode traditionelle is also an excellent crowd-pleasing apèritif style. Drinking window 2021 - 2027”

Moissonet-Bonnard Cremant de Bourgogne, NV ($27.99) - This outstanding sparkler is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from a single 1ha plot southwest of Pommard. The 60-year-old vines are in gravel-limestone soil. Details: hand-harvested and ambient yeast fermentation; 100% malolactic fermentation; elevage in stainless steel tanks; méthode traditionnelle, 15 months on lees with zero dosage; disgorged 9 months before shipping.

Clotilde Davenne Cremant de Bourgogne, Brut Extra, NV ($28.99/750ml; $17.79/375ml) - Similar to the Moissonet-Bonnard above, this is just delicious! And it was written up by Eric Asimov in his December 2023 article on sparkling wine alternatives to true Champagne: "Clotilde Davenne makes small amounts of Chablis and Burgundy as well as Cremant de Bourgogne, the sparkling wine of Burgundy. This bone-dry blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, farmed organically near the town of Chablis, is ultra-fresh, lacy, and elegant."