So you are here to learn about the basics of rats and what you need to know!

Rats need 3 things to thrive. Food, Shelter, and Enrichment. Let's start with the first, Food.


FOOD

To rats food is everything, I've never seen rats go so far for anything else. They adore it. That's why we need to feed them a well-rounded diet. The core feed of rats is very important to the health and wellness of rats and you need to keep a close eye on how they progress and change on food if you end up changing it. Below are my top 3 feeds for rats and my notes about how they work. 

OXBOW

There are two different versions of Oxbow feed that are great. Oxbow Young Rat and Mouse Food, and Oxbow Adult Rat Food, are the two favorites. Rats love Oxbow more than any other food. I have no idea why. I use it as treats as it's expensive and also my rats need a higher protein feed for breeding and coat health reasons, but when I just had pets, they were on this or my alternative.

Oxbow Essentials Young Rat and Mouse Food Is for Rats ages 0-6 months. It has a higher protein content than Oxbow Adult Rat Food, better for growing youngins who need the extra protein so that they can grow big and strong. 18% Protein is perfect for growing rats.

Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat food is perfect for adult rats. It's Balanced, they love it (I use it as treats) and you can get it in large quantities. The only downsides are 1, it gets expensive and 2, it's formulated by age for rats older than 6 months so it's not suitable for rats who need higher protein (young rats or some coated rats) or breeding rats. 15% protein is slightly lower and can be great for rats with kidney problems. Some rats may struggle and need extra protein. 

MAZURI

This is the staple of most rat owners, breeders, and caretakers. This is a “Lab Block” used for research and in zoos. There is Mazuri Rat and Mouse Feed, and Mazuri F6 Rodent Breeder. I Use F6 Feeder Breeder, It's perfectly balanced for rats who are in a breeding program. Slightly higher fiber, fat, and balanced protein at the perfect 18%. Mazuri Rat and Mouse Feed have higher fat and protein content but lower fiber meaning that it might be slightly more challenging for some rats to digest. I've only ever used F6 and my rats THRIVE on it. They don't enjoy eating it as much as oxbow (that's why I use it as treats), but F6 has a balance I much prefer. You can also get these in 25lb and 50lb bags. At about a dollar per pound, the total is perfect for someone who wants to give rats a solid diet, and on one that's not expensive. Truly the best bang for your buck. 

TREATS

Rats can eat nearly anything a human can bar these exceptions

Apple seeds

Avocado skin

Artichokes (raw). This vegetable inhibits protein digestion in rats.

Beans (uncooked) - Destroys vitamin A and enzymes needed to digest protein and starches

Beet tops - oxalates can cause bladder issues.

Blue cheese - The mold that is used to make blue cheese is toxic to rats.

Brussels sprouts (raw) - These can destroy thiamin.

Carbonated drinks - Rats cant Burp and it can cause digestive issues.

Caffeinated drinks - Not great for rats they cant process it.

Candy - Humans shouldn't eat much of this anyway.

Milk Chocolate - Dark Chocolate is great. 80% or more. Milk chocolate is glorified candy.

Dried corn - Fungle contact can cause cancer in rats so avoid it.

Green bananas - While regular bananas are fine, green bananas inhibit starch digestion enzymes.

Green potato skins and eyes - These contain solanine, toxic to all animals.

Hamster food - Never feed them any food meant for other animals other than mice. Rats and Mice need similar diets (Mice and young rats need extra protein).

Licorice - Cause neurological poisoning in rats.

Mango- Contains d-limonene that causes kidney cancer in male rats.

Moldy foods. If you wouldn't eat it they shouldn't

Onions (raw). Cause anemia and Digestive issues.

Oranges - I don't use citrus with any of my rats. Just don't risk it. It causes kidney problems in males.

Peanuts - I wouldn't give these raw ever, with roasted and unsalted I would not commonly use these due to the risks that they have anti starch enzymes that can make it hard to digest

Poppy seeds - Heard horror stories, but they're an opiate in large dosages, and the risk in something as small as a rat is too high

Potato eyes - Poisonous

Red cabbage (raw) - Destroys thiamin

Rhubarb - toxic Oxalates

Spinach - Small amounts are safe but contain Oxalates.

Sweet feed- Dried corn and molasses are not good for them.

Sweet potato (raw) - Never ever feed rats raw potatoes. Always cooked.

Tofu (raw bulk) - Bulk Tofu is often exposed to dangerous mold.

Wild insects - You can never be sure about where they have been. Buy feeder insects from reputable exotics shops

( Lots of this is from this great article: Rat-Nutritional-Information )



HOUSING

The Rule of thumb for all rat cages is that each rat needs two square feet of floor space. I like to think rats needed 2 cubed feet of space each. The bars need to be at most 1/4th inch apart, otherwise, females or small rats will escape. I Always use that calculation on a cage before buying it. Then I review the challenge for cleaning it and feeding them in it. 

CRITTER NATION

The critter nation comes in single and double forms. Single has 2’ by 2’ by 3’  cage space big enough for 6 rats by my rule of thumb. It's only big enough for that if you utilize it properly. Hammocks and climbs and toys increase the usable range to full. Corner Hammocks, wide hammocks, and multiple layers of climbs make the whole space usable. The Double critter nation is the same cage stacked on top of each other. The total space of one is 4’ by 2’ by 3’. That's enough room for 12 rats if properly utilized. I've owned two. My biggest problem is that Amazon selling them has sent me two faulty ones. The first one was all bent out of shape, the second was rusted from water damage and needed refinishing. Honestly out of all the cages this is my favorite. The pain of putting it together is minimal and the doors open completely. With the use of a 36x24 inch cement mixing tub to fill the bottom with bedding, it's perfect. I know people often use it to make bioactive cages as well. It has great airflow and is plenty easy to clean and wipe down. The lack of bedding bins is my big problem but gets easily fixed by the mixing bins. 

KATEE MY FIRST HOME 30x18 MULTILEVEL EXOTICS

My first cage, my two boys lived in it for over a year. I learned quite a bit about this cage. First off the levels are hard to clean and keep urine in the little dips. The ramps take a bit of time to clean. But it came apart well and could be showered off. If you don't mind extra work, It's a fun starter cage and a bit bigger than the best alt starter if you want something a pair can comfortably live in.

BIN CAGE

Bin cages are wonderful and I kept my rats in them when I didnt have the room for a Critter Nation. I like to buy 24 by 36 bins and use 1/4th hardware cloth. They are attached via a bolt and washer system with aluminum duct tape on the edges to prevent chewing. I always have at least 6 windows that are 6 inches by 3 inches minimum for airflow. It usually costs me around 60$ to make one, not including time. My rats love them and they're easy to clean and travel with. I still use them for when my litters get active. So that mom and babies have more room to run about. 

KATEE MY FIRST RAT HOME 12 BY 24 INCHES

This rat cage is perfect, for quarantine, birthing, and isolation due to injury. It's also great for use as part of the Introductions process. It's not great for rats over 6 months old. But Honestly, I think this as a starter cage and a travel cage and backup cage is great, and Owning one of the above (Critter Nation strongly suggested) with this cage is definitely smart. This cage is part of my “All Inclusive Kit” because it’s perfect for a starter cage and you will use it later on when you have an emergency or need to go on a trip.

BEDDING

The research of pine being dangerous is out of date. Pine bedding is kiln dried and safe if properly sized and dedusted. I use Tractor Supply co Fine bedding. It works like a charm. Other than that any recycled paper bedding works wonderfully. Never use scented bedding or dust bedding. Rats have very delicate respiratory systems. Often I use a combo of paper bedding and Kiln Dried Fine wood Shavings bedding. The wood bedding prevents urine and feces from smelling. The Paper adds structure and volume.


CAGE SET UP AND SAFETY

Rats can reach a space about as wide as your hand. I like to have a hammock, a hide, and a toy for each rat, but at minimum 3 of each for any rat 3 or more. You can never go wrong with more toys, more hammocks more hides, or more enrichment. I try to have 1 ceramic hide (often a tea light holder or a candy dish), 1 plastic hide (It can be a nice igloo or a bowl with a cut-out), and one replaceable one made from an old box (replaced once a week). Hammocks can be bought or just made out of scrap fleece. I use t-shirts and crochet hammocks out of them. I also sew fleece hammocks. Those are shown on our services page. You need to wash them once a week so I like to have a couple of sets to make my life easier.

Feeding Toys are very useful as well. Rats love foraging and foraging toys. Rats are as intelligent as some dogs in many ways. You can teach them tricks and such but the best puzzles for them are food reward puzzles also known as Foraging toys. These are primarily made for birds but they work for rats like a charm. My favorite brand is Super Bird Creations. There are a few specific toys I love.

“Super Bird Creations SB751 PVC Forager Bird Toy with Colorful Birds & Flowers, Large Size, 3” x 5” x 8” - My favorite you can just shove foods or treats into it and they love it. The flowers make it a little bit of a challenge to open but not so hard to open that babies cant figure it out.

“Super Bird Creations SB632 Foraging Bottom’S Up Bird Toy with Clear Acrylic Cups & Ringing Bell, Medium To Large Size, 18” x 2.5” - I don't own this one I own a smaller on but It works the same, and its a great puzzle.

​​”Super Bird Creations SB634 Foraging 4 Way Forager Bird Toy With Clear Acrylic Cups, Medium to Large Size, 12” x 7” x 7” - This one works like a charm, The cups being on chains makes it so much better because as those who pull on one cup move the cup its connected. It constantly changes the game

Other Toys I like vary, depending on the rat. Some rats love just apple or willow sticks, some love the willow balls, some get obsessed with wooden blocks. My personal favorite toy for my rats is a Fruit Skewer Bird Toys that you can put fruit and vegetables on or biscuits or anything you can fit on them for foraging.

Other than foraging toys, Nesting toys are my rat's second favorite. Those are a lot simpler. A box of tissues with the plastic removed works like a dream. Rolls of Toilet paper are always a hit. Boxes to shred full of old newspaper but if you want low maintenance, A brown paper bag can make them happy more than I can. They are simple and have simple joys. 


FIRST AID AND MEDICAL ISSUES

This is not information meant to diagnose your rat. All this information is predicated on the idea of you using a vet and going to them if necessary. I've had to spend 500$ on vet bills for a little accident where my partner kneeled on one of my boys. They gave me pain meds and an x-ray to confirm that he was being dramatic and sassy. He was fine. But knowing some things in emergencies can save your rat's life, and if without medical care the rat could die? I would rather see someone try first aid than let them suffer without any medical care.

Let's start with the basics of a healthy rat. Clear eyes, clear nose, no discharge, clean skin, healthy hair (if they have it), clean ears, well-proportioned body. Their breathing should be clear and without noise or wine when you rat phone them (put them up to your ear to hear their breathing). Their stool should be solid and slightly moist when first deposited. I'm gonna go over the three most common issues I see.

Porphyrin- Does it look like your rat is bleeding out of its noes and or eyes? Unless it's blood-red (Drying near black) you are probably dealing with the redish mucus that is produced by irritation from a rat's eyes and nose. Their paws might even be orange from them grooming the porphyrin over their bodies. Usually, it clears up after 48 hours. If it doesn't it means you need to see a vet ASAP. This signals that the rat has some sort of irritation be it viral or bacterial, and they are struggling to fight off and the vet should be able to help out or at least figure out what to do. I always start with Garlic, Turmeric, and dark chocolate at the first sign of porphyrin. The chemicals in them can help with the infection. It's a good way to help hold off and give them a little boost till you can get them to the vet

URI - Upper respiratory infections are very hard to deal with if you're ending up with a history of them. Your rat will be struggling to breathe and when you listen to them you will hear noise in their chest and crackling or popping or wheezing. If there gasping for breath get them to an emergency vet right away. If you've just noticed crackling when they breathe you have a little time to set up an appointment. In the meantime again, Garlic Tumeric and dark chocolate. Also keeping them warm and if they really start to struggle sometime in the bathroom with a hot shower on to warm and moisten the air. Most times vets prescribe Amoxicillin based on weight to be given via syringe.

Injury - Lacerations and cuts are easy to fix on your own. Wash them out with warm water (A mild soap if there's debris) and cover them with a topical disinfectant. Broken limbs need to be seen by a vet but most broken toes (unless it's an open wound) will resolve themselves, the vet won't be able to do anything anyway. The big problem injury-wise is deep lacerations that go into the muscle and degloving of the tail. Deep lacerations that go into the muscle mean that there could be damage to the internal organs. I've had rats with an inch or an inch and a half cut in them heal without veterinary help. All they needed was some gause, bandages, and a little bit of medical tape, the issue is a wound that is open and you don't notice it right away or any bigger, go to the vet. Infections set in quickly. I was able to properly treat my rats with first aid care and know sanitization protocol. I have also had to put down rats with infections I didn't know about. My three-year-old rat had to be put down because a sore opened up under his chin and I didn't find it on day one. Tho his cage mate protected and fed and groomed him he couldn't keep the wound clean enough. The infection was bad and he was an old boy, It was time for him. There was nothing I could do. The vet had agreed. If you put off the vet with a dangerous wound. Degloving is always a vet trip. Degloving is when the skin on a rat's tail slips right off with enough force exposing the muscle bone and nerve. That means you need to go to the vet. They will remove the exposed bone and close up the wound. Not only are these wounds incredibly painful, but they also can cause permanent issues without vet care.


CLEANING

There are five solutions to use for various types of cleaning. Below are all of the ones I use, including how I use them in a deep disinfecting process. 

​​My deep cleaning process is used for Quarantine and Disinfecting Protocol in case of Virus. It's listed on my Quarantine Protocol page.  For weekly cleanings, you really only need the vinegar and soapy water and water solutions. For the once-monthly cleaning (I like to do the deep clean at the start of the month) That's when you use the bleach solutions and only on hard nonporous surfaces that will not soak into it. Bleach works because it kills organic organisms, therefore you do not want you're rats, organic organisms. Make sure everything is rinsed off.