Day 5

10 or 10:30 am late start, destinatino of Llewellyn Inlet south end. On the way out mirror calm for 9km, then a strong head wind for last km. After hike returned to Llewellyn Inlet mouth to setup camp, 7:00 pm.

Paddling from Sloko island to Llewelyn Inlet the water was blue. As we entered the inlet the water slowly turned an amazing green. Paddling down the inlet the water got murkier as it mixed with glacial till, eventuall turning a light brown as we got closer to the Llewellyn River.

Llewellyn Inlet is steep-sided with numerous small waterfalls cascading in from the mountain sides, mostly on the right (west) side. We could hear them a long time before seeing them. All of the left (east) side is covered with fire burnt trees and stumps.

The Hike

Bugs at trailhead were bad so we didn't waste any time getting started. Trail is well marked and easy enough for able bodied folk, but one must constantly watch footing due to roots and rocks. Several steep ascends & descends. 15 or 20 minutes in there's an enthusiastically flagged fork to the left with the name "Old River Trail". 15 minutes further up the main trail is the first lookout.

Couldn't stop moving even for a second, else the mosquitos feasted, with 3 and 4 landing on the same patch of skin simultaneously. We had one mosquito hat with us, unnoticed the other one got dropped in the canoe as we were leaving. It kept the bugs from face and neck, at the cost of feeling just a little short of air.

At the 2nd lookout the glacier view from the knoll was beautiful (though much more distant relative to Mt Adams trail) but couldn't enjoy because even here exposed to the breeze the bugs were constant. We're told there is a path from here heading to the glacier. We watched a couple men fording marsh and buck brush to get to it, boots hanging from their necks, We learned later that it takes ~5 hours one way to hike into the glacier from here.

On return we decided to take the Old River Trail branch, thinking it would lead down to the river and out on to the gravel plain where we would possibly get some respite from the mosquitos. The trail is narrow and windy, not as well used as the main trail with lots of up and down. Kim sprained her angle on the uneven paths. Mosquitos were no better on this trail; even pausing for a drink of water was a debate.

The trail does go to the river after a long time. Impressive big rocks and rapids, class 3 or 4. Snapped some quick photos & keep moving due to bugs. More climbs and descends. Finally arrive at lookout, and no way to get down to the alluvial plain.

Much better view of glacier from here than the knoll, though still a long way off. From here you can see the knoll viewpoint down and to the right. Only an arrow shot away, but a steep gully between. Wind still not enough to keep bugs down, and we don't enjoy our snack.

We decided to crossover to the knoll view and head back that way as it is much shorter. Once started we discover The Old River Trail does connect with the knoll trail to form a loop, but yes it is by going down and back up the steep ravine, maybe 70% degree slope. Not that hard, but when hot, sweaty, tired and stomping on a tender ankle it's not fun. However it was still much better than going all the way back via the Old River Trail as it's much shorter and not as much watching of feet.

Return Paddle

We launched from the campground as soon as we got back, not wanting to give the bugs any more of us than they already had. We managed to stop on glacial till at the river mouth to get a break and to finally have lunch, and enjoy the sun and just sit. The water was murky as it roared out from the river.

The paddle out is calm again, glass for 6 or 7km. Then headwinds again. It seems that no matter if we're travelling north or south, we can count on a portion being against the wind!

At any rate the slog against the wind meant we wouldn't make it back to Sloko that day. We camped near the mouth of the inlet on a black-grey sand beach. A nice camp. It wouldn't take much work to clear away the fire burnt logs to make room for more tents. Enough mosquitos to mean we're not going to lounge on the beach, but making supper etc. is okay.

This day was hard. Not fun and the view disappointing. (But still many encounters with beauty and moments of richness to savour.)