It wasn’t that I didn’t trust anyone but I just wanted to be there in person to see the rewards of all my hard work on the ground. I get a few days allowances that will last me a month and I’m off on my tour of the north to monitor the zone games and have a bit of a well-earned holiday. I will travel on public transport. My first stop is Bolero as I’ve been invited by Mr. ‘Play on’ Sitima and Mr. Mvula to come and see them in action. Bolero is about forty kilometres west of Rumphi along a rough dirt road to Nyika National Park.
It is 8 pm and I’m back at Mr. Mvula’s house after a long tough day in the rain and mud. The day had it all. Thunderstorms, waterlogged pitches, drunken sports teachers, upset Heads and me in the middle of the action. The finals were played at Chankanlamu FP School chosen as a mid-way point between Bolero, Heve and Chirambo. It was a big success. The next day I’m at Mzokoto School for Phwezi Boys versus Pachichi Private School. The big news is that the 1999 divisional champions are out losing 1-0. It was a very intimidating atmosphere but the game was well refereed and everyone left in good spirits. By 9 pm the next day I’m in Nthalire after a great trip through Nyika National Park in the back of a tobacco lorry.
Muddy day in Bolero
Chirambo winners
Transport through Nyika
In Nthalire Mr. Chirwa takes me aside and tells me of his zones problems. Kaprinkhode versus Wenya was abandoned after a broken leg. Politics is a big problem around here and the UDF v AFFORD battle is influencing the school sports. Finally he tells me there is a big ‘juju’ problem. I agree to conduct a one day netball course for the schools in Nthalire. The next day I’m in Wenya a very remote spot but fail to get to an even more remote place to see the finals. I get a very warm welcome everywhere I go. Teachers are happy to put me up and feed me. In Nkhumano the netball posts are over three metres high and the village headman dressed in a suit is refereeing the football. I manage to visit the Nkhumano Primary Zone Sports Committee meeting. These meetings actually happen and things get decided. I left with a positive feeling. In Chisenga I stay with Mr. Munyimbili and he gives me a ride on his bike to the village of Ikombe, the venue for the zone finals. I am asked to referee the games. The netball is uneventful and Chisenga win easily. The football is a different matter. Namatubi CDSS beat Chisenga 3-0 in a ‘juju’ influenced game.
Near the end of the game the Chisenga goalkeeper is in a strange trance and after the game he is totally disorientated as we try to get back the 8 kilometres to Chisenga in the dark. He has to be carried back. I am probably the most disorientated of us all. It was a weird and wonderful day. Back in Chisenga I eat nsima and beans with the Munyimbili family. I have a zero star room in the only lodge in town. The next morning I wait at the junction for the first transport going north. It arrives near midday. Chitipa is my next stop and I settle in my favourite rest house, the NaChitipa Lodge. The zone finals are well organised here as usual and I just sit back and enjoy the fun. I get a lift to the remote Misuku Hills by the police. Our MASSA school sports programme is even happening here. The Misuku Hills are beautiful but the road rough and I get thrown around in the back of the police pickup truck like many prisoners before me I guessed. I say goodbye to Chitipa with a few beers at the ‘Booz Clinic’ with my Chitipa friends. I leave with a great feeling of optimism and the wind in my hair as I stand in the back of the lorry shielding my eyes from the dust. All is going well until we manage to put the front left wheel through the bridge. It takes a good hour of discussions to get us out and moving again.
Mr Munyimbili in Chisenga
Chisenga v Nkhumano
Through Nyika
Through a bridge
In Karonga Bam Sibakwe takes me out for a rice and fish supper. He likes being in charge but isn’t really doing anything it seems. School sports is alive and well here just the adults trying their best to mess it up. To finish my tour I spend a good three days in Livingstonia. The place is located high on an escarpment overlooking Lake Malawi and the mountains in Tanzania beyond. It is a beautiful setting with a big Scottish connection through the Presbyterian Church set up here by Robert Laws. Mr. Manda with his bright red tracksuit looks after me. I go and train the CDSS ahead of the big game tomorrow versus the Government School. They lose 5-0 but get to keep the match ball. Back in Mzuzu I now really appreciate what these schools are doing to fulfil the games in their competitions. I have lots of thoughts today about extending my contract for another year. There are a lot of very good reasons to stay.
BAM Sibakwe
My Karonga home
Mr Manda in Livingstonia
Livingstonia view