Over the next month we travelled the length and breadth of Northern Malawi using public transport mostly. It was now I was introduced to the bizarre system of per diem allowances for nights away from your station of work. It was about 600 kwacha a night. Three nights and you had almost made your monthly salary. I initially took the money but felt uncomfortable. Fabiano was keen to suggest trips away and I guessed why. It seemed to be the curse of the Malawi government. Most departments had a budget but it was limited. Large parts of the budgets were taken up with these travel expenses for meetings and courses that planned activities but in the end didn’t have the money to deliver. I was determined that would not happen in my department but people would not work away from their work stations without allowances. I had to try and change this mentally and hopefully convince people who really wanted to gain knowledge and organise sports to work without allowances. Most districts we could visit in a day trip but Karonga, Chitipa and Likoma needed a few days away. First stop was Nkhata Bay but unfortunately the letters hadn’t reached all the schools via the district education office. Msiska had told us that no transport was available today but as we waited for a mini bus he drove past in a vehicle with space. This incident explained a lot to me early on about the task ahead. The feedback from the meeting was that schools were keen to participate but there were major problems with funds to travel, no allowances for teachers and a severe lack of sporting equipment. The teachers present said they would meet again, invite me and elect a district committee soon. There was a general feeling of good will and enthusiasm. The Mzuzu meeting was better attended, a committee elected and they would start the fixtures as soon as possible. We get our five nights allowances (513 kwacha per night) and set off for Mzimba. In Mzimba there are no teachers around because most were trying to catch an official from the district education office who had embezzled money meant for them. Obviously this was a higher priority than my sports meeting. However I did meet Joseph Munthali who was to become someone I worked a lot with and trusted. It was the same story the next day in Ekwendeni in Mzimba North district. The letters had failed to get to the schools. Our transport to Rumphi is cancelled today as Mr Kalumbi the Deputy Education Manager was ordered by a high ranking ruling party UDF official to do an important government job for him or get sacked. No problem so we get a bus and meet six schools in Rumphi. They didn’t seem to believe our plans based on past failures. The next morning we wait for our promised vehicle to Karonga for four hours but eventually lose it to a more important job. We arrive two hours late but the teachers are patient. Nine schools are present basically because a teacher Bam Sibakwe had not allowed them to leave.

In the morning we find a vehicle going to Chitipa. It is 101 kilometres along the M26 and five hours on a good day to Chitipa along a rough dirt road. We travel in the back of a truck with ‘The Beer of Africa’ on the back. We have a two hour delay when the driver gets stuck in the middle of a swollen river. He had plenty of beer but unfortunately no brains. Chitipa really is a far outpost in Malawi. It was a real adventure getting there. Again a low turn-out greets us in Chitipa but the teachers are grateful as nobody had visited them before with any plan for sports. They liked our plan and had many of their own. In Chitipa the ‘Booz Clinic’ and the ‘Fuck You Grocery’ made me laugh.

Fabiano and I talk on the way back. The trip had been a partial success. Organisationally we failed to get the message out to all the schools. Logistically we got no support from the education office but just got on with it ourselves. A clear message came back from those present. They appreciated the visit, were excited about the plans but made us aware of the potential problems ahead mostly due to poor funding. I had loved the road trip and had now seen the areas where we would be working. It gave me some real perspective about the challenge ahead.

Back in Mzuzu I made my debut for Apatseni Socials in a 3-3 draw away to Ekwendeni Wanderers. We got changed in the back of our truck in a field. It is a crazy atmosphere with the crowd going mental over the ‘Mzungu’ playing football. The ground was hard and my studs were not working. It was 3-3 when I hit the post with a header in the last minute. A big crowd gave me a hard time but I was strong.

The famous old blue and white Lamb and Flag FC kit even makes it to Chibavi. I spend a frustrating few days trying to work out a budget for our programme. It was almost impossible. We finally managed a figure of 776,000 kwacha (£10,000) for the year ahead. Let’s see if it gets approved. Life at the office is frustrating. There is so much to do but I’m going too fast often without consulting Fabiano. I’m not yet fully on Malawi time it seems. There is a very different kind of work ethic here. Personal and family issues come first. Office life is frustrating with today no power, phone lines and photocopy paper. However if I get a problem I soon find a solution. I’m enjoying making the job my own, setting up a new sports office and meeting people. By the end of the day I’m tired but buzzing. I usually get a plate of rice and beans on the way home and then take a slow walk through the fields back to my house as the sun sets. At home I heat a big pan of water and have a bucket wash. My short very squeaky metal sprung bed is annoying at first but soon I find a way to fit. In the early mornings I’m woken by my neighbour’s chickens. I usually get an egg for breakfast.