I started making Norse garb because my husband's persona is Norse and I wanted to match with him sometimes. I never really graduated from beginner "Generic Norse" into making garb from a specific time or place, but this garb is very warm and I like it for cold events.
Coat: The grey coat here was my first coat ever, made using this pattern by Duchesse Sabine. To see some other coats I made, go here.
Underdress: I use this “Vigdis” conjectural Underdress pattern from Hefdharfru Vigdís Vestfirzka.
Apron Dress: some options for patterning these can be found on Álfrún ketta's page, here.
Hood: This handout by Francesca Carlotti is useful for making hoods.
My barony decided on 9th and 10th century Rus as the theme for their Baronial Birthday event in 2023. I lined up a teacher to teach an online class on Rus Garb and did my fumbling best to lead a recurring sew-along to encourage barony members to make garb. This is the outfit I wound up making and wearing at the event. In the interest of time, the hem, sleeves and biceps are decorated with strips of hand-embroidery snipped from an Ebay tablecloth.
Although I would never have done this without being involved in the Barony event, I do think this is a very pretty outfit and it is fun to wear temple rings and lunula. If I find myself motivated to try again I will do it from linen with actual smocking at the neck instead of pleats, and I can embroider it myself.
Publication: Burial Dress of the Rus of the Upper Volga - many illustrations referenced by burial site
Amazing website of SCA laurel Marya Kargashina, about Novgorod -- check out her sections on Temple Rings, East and West!
The partially-inset sleeves and sloping shoulders on this wool herringbone garment were patterned after drawings of 12th and 13th century garments from Herjolfsnes in Greenland, published in Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns By Lilli Fransen, Anna Nørgård and Else Østergård, Aarhus University Press, 2012 ISBN: 978-87-7934-298-9
I know, Vandyke was not a period stitch but if you squint it maybe looks like the couched seam-cords that are more documentable? I also have rather a lot of beautiful herringbone embroidery I'm embarrassed to post pictures of too because, like many newbie Norse, I herringboned like crazy before I learned it wasn't really a period embellishment...
More importantly (to my priorities anyway), this grey garment is an example of something I particularly enjoy, which is making the most of a remnant. I often make garb out of fabric that is handed down to me or scavenged from remnant tables, second-hand sales, or Ebay, in limited yardage. I didn't have quite enough of the light-gray base fabric to do what I wanted, so I made it go further by buying a thrift store men's jacket for a few dollars, cutting it up, and using that for the fabric of gores and trim. Not only does working this way render examples to reenactors on a budget, it also enhances my appreciation of the incredibly high value cloth had in a time when every thread was painstakingly processed by hand through hours and hours of skilled labor.
This was a one-off attempt to make a Song Dynasty women's hanfu. It was done in honor of Anglesey's warlord Ying, who celebrates his Chinese heritage through his persona. We were encouraged to create or obtain Chinese garb to wear in support of him at a household event. I made an attempt and felt very out of my depth and nervous, but it was worth stepping out of my comfort zone to shine a reenactment spotlight on a non-Western culture. This hanfu consisted of a pleated camisole, shirt, pleated wrap skirt with a long distinctively-tied belt, and a coat. People who actually do Eastern garb and research it properly should rightfully be horrified at this, and it is rife with inaccuracies (for example, only the Emperor was allowed to wear yellow). Ying was gracious and kind about my efforts. An introductory video on Song Dynasty Hanfu can be found here.
I decided to make a Burgundian gown for fun, not to enter as an A&S project but because I'd always secretly wanted to wear one. One gown turned into a gown and a partially-lined supportive under-kirtle-- and then there was a hennin for my head, with a frontpiece, and a veil, and I modified a costume brooch..I took some pictures of the process, but this project was really about blowing off steam and taking a break from the Early Period work in which I invest more seriously, so I'm not sharing the step-by-step here.
My laurel friend Countess Gwen in Meridies helped me with the torso patterning. I played with muslin mockups a bunch trying to get the fit just right, made five different muslin versions before I was happy with it enough to continue. The shoulders still aren't right but they're OK. Late period patterning is hard.
The bottom hems of all the pieces except the two front panels are angled slightly, to make the shorter front meet up with the longer train in back. Gwen convinced me to make a separate linen under-kirtle first, lined on the torso with linen canvas, which replaces a modern bra to give a more period silhouette. I wound up learning to sew eyelets because it needed 30 eyelet holes.
Choosing fabric was a process -- I was given instructions to look for a damask or brocade. But the choices for those wound up being either plastic fiber content or prohibitively expensive, especially because I needed six yards --three times what an early period garment requires! In the end I found a set of remnants on Etsy that were natural fiber but not an accurate design for the Burgundian period. The difference between the blue and the green colors in the flowers was subtle, which downplayed the design and made it less noticeable from ten feet away. I decided it would have to do; I wasn't going to wear plastic.
I made the outer gown a half-inch bigger than the underkirtle all around, so it would fit over the kirtle comfortably. The outer gown has a big triangle train piece in the middle of the back, missing from the underkirtle.
I lined everything but the sleeves on the outer gown. I love the way the skirt moves with that extra layer of linen under the damask.
I happened to have a wide leather belt already, modeled after Germanic early period belts, and I just wore that belt backwards. The non-Burgundian buckles on my spine were covered by a long veil.
Don't get me started on how awful it is to sew silk velvet, which I had never done before. It was like trying to stitch a living caterpillar. I did the velvet on the collar and cuffs and abandoned my original plan for velvet trim on the 6+ yards of hem.
I may make a separate post about the experience of making this hennin. It has a base of buckram, covered with felt and then silk, and it's lined with linen. The brim is reinforced with copper wire.
I added three pearls to an $8 Ebay brooch to make it look a little more like this portrait of Mary of Burgundy from the Leopold Museum in Vienna. I also made an anchoring headband with a loop in front that I did not wind up wearing because I made the loop comically large by mistake.
If I had it to do over, I'd make the velvet frontpiece more narrow and longer. It looks right in this picture but when I wore the frontpiece, the sides flopped around like beagle ears and it added to my problems overheating.
The final product included a square silk organza veil pinned to the top of the hennin. If you're counting, that's four layers on my head: anchoring layer, hennin, velvet frontpiece, veil.
I wore this to attend the inaugural Highland Hearthglow event in January of 2025 with my friend Aelwen. Unbidden, she suggested doing a portrait where she is my lady in waiting. I found this idea so preposterous that I was cracking up the whole time but this is absolutely the best photo I have of the dress.
The event was inside, and after working on this outfit for four months, I managed to wear it for three hours before I was too hot and had to take it off. I also ate so much at the five-course feast that, between my engorged stomach and the tight-laced dress, I could not draw breath to sing as part of the after-dinner performances. I may wear this dress again sometime, as long as I can wear it outside, in the cold.
My inspiration was this image of Anne de Memere from a manuscript hours book, here