Pattern made from scratch by me. Sewn from 100% medium-weight linen.
Pattern is designed with princess seams in the bodice section, flaring out at the hips into a full skirt. Even though there is lacing on both sides to help with shaping, the princess seams add a tailored level of form-fitting that I find flattering.
The princess seams in this pattern were designed specifically for me, but the lacing allows for a variety of size adjustment.
The pattern has 5 primary pieces: Front, side front, back, side back, and side gusset.
Also cut (but not pictured) are matching facings for the neckline, which slope just above the bustline across to the side. The facing extends across the full shoulder width for strength and stability, and also down the side front and side back to just below the hip, to add strength to the lacing holes.
Side gusset allows for easy fitting, as the dress can be tightened or loosened around the gusset as needed. Lacing holes extend slightly below the top of the gusset, to hold it in place against the body.
(inside view)
I inserted a pocket into the top of each gusset, because dresses are inconvenient without pockets.
(outside view)
Seams are stitched with a generous seam allowance and serged to finish the edge. This style of seam is light-weight and flexible, since it has no additional folding.
I made bound button holes on the sides for the lacing.
Rectangles of fabric are stitched around each hole location. The hole is then sliced open into the corners, and turned to the inside. Raw edges are folded underneath and top stitched in place.
For seam integrity, I used Fray-Check generously on the inside edges of each buttonhole.
Neckline is machine embroidered, with a subtle complimentary shade of thread on top, and a near-identical fabric shade underneath.
Hem is blind-stitched and is nearly invisible.
Beads added to the end of each lace for fun.