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The two artifacts (2020.7.1; 2021.1.1.a,b) in this category were produced to be worn by supporters during political rallies and election celebrations. These commissioned textiles were printed in cost-effective ways to maximize the clients' monetary investment as they would typically be handed out for free before or at political events.
The fabrics exhibited in this section are typical of African portrait-cloths with stylized portrait medallions, emphatic campaign slogans, and eye-catching colour schemes. Artifact 2020.7.1 is an example of a political commemorative kanga with the three traditional kanga design elements: a prominent mji, or central motif, plus pindo (border), and jina (Kiswahili motto/phrase).
Additionally, this category includes a two-piece formal garment (2021.1.1.a, b) sewn from commemorative fabric for a political rally, an example of the many ways in which these commercially-printed African textiles are used and re-purposed for dressing the body.
Hongera Barack Obama kanga; 2008
Cotton, commercially printed; 107 cm x 319 cm
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2020.7.1
Acquired by the Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection
HONGERA BARACK OBAMA KANGA
HONGERA BARACK OBAMA KANGA
This kanga was manufactured by Nida Textile Mills in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, to commemorate the election of United States President Barack Obama in November 2008. As the first African American president in US history, Obama's first term election was largely celebrated by African political leaders, with many hoping his term would signal a new era in US–African relations (1).
The blue grid pindo features diamond-shaped arrangements of 4 hearts, possibly an allusion to the unidentified designer's fondness for President Obama. The central black-and-white portrait medallion is framed by the phrase "Congratulations Barack Obama" in Kiswahili (2). The kanga's jina reads, "UPENDO NA AMANI AMETUJALIA MUNGU," which translates to "God has blessed us with peace and love" (2). A map of the continent of Africa is prominently placed on either side of the portrait medallion, implying themes of progress, exploration, and international cooperation (3).
Unworn and unhemmed, this textile is still in its original doti form: kanga are typically sold in identical pairs, each approximately 160 cm long, in one continuously woven textile to be cut apart after purchase.
M'Cormack-Hale, F., & Kaba, A. J. (2015). The Obama Administration and U.S.-Africa Relations. Western Journal of Black Studies, 39(3), 238–255. https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=hlh&AN=113913890&site=eds-live&scope=site
An identical piece can be viewed at the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art, Washington, DC, United States: https://africa.si.edu/collections/objects/17979/hongera-barack-obama
Bishop, C. P. (2014). African occasional textiles: Vernacular landscapes of development. African Arts, 47(4), 72–85. https://doi.org/10.1162/AFAR_a_00184
President Biya dress and headwrap (detail)
Polyester, commercially printed
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2021.1.1.a, b
Acquired by the Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection
PRESIDENT BIYA DRESS AND HEADWRAP
PRESIDENT BIYA DRESS AND HEADWRAP
The garments pictured below were handmade from a fabric printed by Weifang Jielong Textile Co. Ltd. in the province of Shandong, China (1). The print was likely commissioned by Cameroonian President Paul Biya's political party, the Cameroon People's Democratic Movement (CPDM), before or during the 2018 presidential election.
This fabric is characterized by full-colour portrait medallions of Biya surrounded by the motto, "LA FORCE DE L'EXPERIENCE," which translates to, "The power of experience," in French, one of the country's official languages. This slogan is a reference to Biya's long, nearly 40-year term as head of state and leader of the CPDM and its predecessors (2). The dress has been crafted with care by an experienced sewist and is accompanied by a headwrap cloth that is hemmed on its two raw edges.
Unlike other textiles in the exhibition, this fabric is made from polyester fibres instead of natural cotton yarns (3). This is reflective of the textile's purpose as an inexpensive promotional item that could be produced and distributed at minimal cost (4). This polyester fabric was then used to make a long, full volume, gathered-front women's dress and is embellished with green piping around the front yoke collar and cuffs, serging along the raw edges exposed by seams on the garment's interior, and a lined hem made with contrasting tartan fabric scraps.
A video of this fabric being produced is available at https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/african-cotton-wax-printed-fabric-supplier_60145957828.html
Nchoji Nkwi, P., & Nyamnjoh, F. B. (Eds.). (2011). Regional balance and national integration in Cameroon: Lessons learned and the uncertain future. Langaa RPCIG.
Fibres from the President Biya fabric used in objects 2021.1.1.a and b were examined by microscope courtesy of the Textile Analysis Service lab in the Department of Human Ecology at the University of Alberta.
Bishop, C. P. (2014). African occasional textiles: Vernacular landscapes of development. African Arts, 47 (4), 72–85. https://doi.org/10.1162/AFAR_a_00184
President Biya dress
Polyester, commercially printed
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2021.1.1.a
Acquired by the Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection
President Biya headwrap
Polyester, commercially printed; 115cm x 77.5cm
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2021.1.1.b
Acquired by the Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection
Above: Supporters of President Biya gathering to celebrate his re-election in Yaoundé, Cameroon— the nation's capital—in 2018. Some men and women are dressed in garments made from the same fabric as artifacts 2021.1.1.a, b.
"Tissus événementiels": Occasional textiles as communication for all genders
"Tissus événementiels": Occasional textiles as communication for all genders
Also known as portrait-cloths, occasional textiles are produced to commemorate people, institutes, and social events such as holidays, visits from foreign dignitaries, and political rallies.
Like many of the textiles featured in this exhibit, the cloth from which the President Biya dress and headwrap (2021.1.1.a, b) are made was produced to commemorate a political leader. However, unlike wrappers worn by only women, this tissu événementiel was also made into suits and pants for men to show their support for Cameroonian President Paul Biya.
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