Honouring Heads of State
This selection of political commemorative cloth represents many unique features of African textiles, including portrait medallions, paisley (korosho) motifs, and rich primary colours. Both of these artifacts (1976.22.1, 1987.4.1) were made to honour contemporary African leaders in post-independence Tchad, Sudan, and Zimbabwe.
Although these heads of state were controversial both domestically and internationally, these textiles were both made early after their countries' independence and therefore sentiment was idealistic and nationalistic rather than an accurate representation of their depicted presidents' popularity. The fabric may have been commissioned by a leader's political party for a rally or as part of a government's celebration for visiting dignitaries.
Despite their subject content, these textiles must not be misclassified as propaganda: they exist to commemorate leaders in a favourable context, but do not try to convince the viewer of any fact or viewpoint. Instead, these commemorative textiles are part of a rich African tradition of cloth as historical record and aesthetics—including colours, symbols, slogans, and patterns—as communication.
President Tombalbaye and Major-General Nimeri commemorative cloth; ca. 1971
Cotton, commercially printed; 318 cm x 115.5 cm
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1976.22.1
Donated by Dr. Elizabeth Richards
PRESIDENT TOMBALBAYE AND MAJOR-GENERAL NIMERI COMMEMORATIVE CLOTH
This textile, printed by an unidentified manufacturer, depicts the first Tchadian President, François N'Garta Tombalbaye, and Sudan Major-General (and later President of Sudan) Jaafar Muhammad Nimeiry. Tombalbaye and Nimeiry were contemporary heads of state from 1969 to 1975, both leading their countries through tumultuous post-independence periods under single-party rule (1)(2). Sudan borders Tchad to the east and has had close, and at times strained, diplomatic ties since the postcolonial governments' establishment in 1956 and 1960 respectively.
A prominent korosho–patterned border frames the central portrait medallion motifs and the outlines of countries Tchad and Sudan with their capital cities indicated—Fort-Lamy, Republic of Tchad, was renamed N’Djamena by Tombalbaye in 1973, and Khartoum is the capital city of the Republic of the Sudan. Portrait medallions of the two leaders are centred on the cloth with their subject's name in French in a cartouche above and below the medallion. The dark green background with black, white, and red accents is reminiscent of the Pan-Arab colours of the Sudanese flag while the blue, red, and gold details evoke the colours of the Tchadian flag.
According to donor Elizabeth Richards, who was gifted this piece by her late friend Que Marinier, similar wraps were commonly worn by women in the region as casual, everyday wear.
Astashin, N. (2016). Urban warfare in sub-Saharan Africa in 1970-1981: Inventing the rules of the game. SSRN. http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.2819906
Boyd, H. (1983). Chad: A civil war without end? Journal of African Studies, 10(4), 119-126. https://www.proquest.com/scholarly-journals/chad-civil-war-without-end/docview/1303255292/se-2?accountid=14474
President Mugabe commemorative cloth; ca. 1981-1982
Cotton, commercially printed; 122.6 cm x 101.7 cm
Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1987.4.1
Donated by Dr. Lila Engberg
PRESIDENT MUGABE COMMEMORATIVE CLOTH
Produced by an unknown manufacturer, this segment of printed wrap cloth was made to celebrate Zimbabwean President Robert Mugabe in the early 1980s during his term as first Prime Minister of Zimbabwe. The stylized structure bordering the lower half of this piece is representative of the iconic mortarless walls and conical tower of Great Zimbabwe, the monumental remnants of an ancient medieval city after which the country is named.
The magnificent stone structures of the ruins' Great Enclosure evoke themes of stability, tradition, and Shona architectural excellence (1). The harvest-yellow floral border surrounding the central portrait medallion suggests the agricultural abundance of an autumn cornucopia. Motifs of a crowing rooster in front of the rising sun have been commonly used during the African independence and Pan-African movements to represent cultural awakening (2). The black-and-white illustration of hands breaking manacles symbolize Mugabe's importance to the African independence movement: he was seen by many as responsible for breaking the figurative shackles of British minority rule in Zimbabwe (3).
A contemporary, nearly identical piece (worn as a wrap cloth by a Mugabe supporter at St. Xavier College in Kutama, Zimbabwe) was photographed in an article that ran in the Edmonton Journal to promote a January 1987 visit to Zimbabwe by Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulroney (4).
Chirikure, S., & Pikirayi, I. (2008). Inside and outside the dry stone walls: Revisiting the material culture of Great Zimbabwe. Antiquity, 82(318), 976-993. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0003598X00097726
Nimako, K. (2010). Nkrumah, African awakening and neo-colonialism: How Black America awakened Nkrumah and Nkrumah awakened Black America. The Black Scholar, 40(2), 54-70. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/00064246.2010.11728715
Tendi, B.-M. (2011). Robert Mugabe and toxicity: History and context matter. Representation, 47(3), 307-318. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00344893.2011.596439
Nagle, P. (1987, January 29). Zimbabweans warmly greet Mulroney. The Edmonton Journal, A8. ISSN: 0839-296X