The control box is the primary electrical interface between the controller, motor, and rest of the vehicle.
Overview :The control box is the primary electrical interface between the controller, motor, andrest of the vehicle. It houses the controller, main contactor, DC to DC converter, auxiliary battery, several relays, cooling fans and a DIN-rail to interface them all together.
With the frame, identify the back and front of the box. The front must align with the rectangular holes in the base. You will need to ensure there is a tapered edge. Next, attach the base to the frame using eight 1/4”-20 x 3/4” bolts, each secured with a nylon insert nut and a flat washer. Remember, the edge must be tapered
The fans come pre-wired, and we need to determine their placement. The side fan, which may resemble the front fan, should be aligned with the rectangular opening. One of the fans connects to the custom or larger connector on the wire; this is the shorter one. The rear fan is positioned at the back of the case, where the larger wires are located. Each fan includes a protective grill(used to protect the fan ) that mounts on the outside, with the fans installed inside the case. Each fan is secured with four #8-32 x 1-1/2” machine screws, which should be passed through the grill first, using nylon insert nuts to secure them.
The reason one Fan Blows outwards ( Rear side) and the others blow in ( Front side) is to create a constant flow to allow for a circulation loop or for the air to flow from the battery to cool down and prevent overheating.
What is it? Converts direct current (DC) from one voltage level to another
Take high-voltage power from the battery and convert it to low-voltage power for use by other systems.
They connect systems with different voltage levels.
Can be isolated to help with safety, especially for higher voltages and currents
Installation: To start, we need four 1/4”-20 x 1” screws with flat washers and nylon insert nuts. The front of the screw goes under the base and the flat washers with the nut go inside the case. The rectangle in front of the front case fan is where the converter sits and the cables exit the converter into the main interior area of the case.
This install was done earlier to help with clean wiring.
Five #10-24 machine screws x 3/4” washers and nylon inserts. The front of the screw goes on the outside and the washers and nuts go on the inside of the bow, but remember that you only want to go halfway up the clamp, meaning the clamp will be open until all the necessary wires are in there before you can close it. The location of this is next to the converter on the frame and it goes 3, another goes to the corner on the same side and the last one goes to the side that would be the back of the frame.
AUXILIARY BATTERY :
This one requires a constant voltage supply .
Supplies power to the control box components to allow the car to start
Recharged by the high voltage battery pack using the DC to DC converter
Installation: It goes along to the Rear of the control box to the left side of the converter, It has to be one inch of separation between them . After placing it the right spot , place the strap on the top ( half the width of the battery).Then use two 1/4”-20 x 4 bolts with flat washers and nylon nuts. The bolt will go from bottom to inside, which would give the inside of the box, and then place the nuts and washers.
The Control Rail ( RCBX) help to organizes electrical connections between various components also helping maintain clean and efficient wires layout
Installation :After placing the converter and the battery , the RCBX has to be in front of the converter and next to it, you will notice two holes on the base. Position in those holes then use two 1/4”-20 x 3/4” bolts with flat washers and nylon insert nuts to attach the rail to the plate. Insert the bolts from the bottom, directing them into the inside of the box.
The Motor Cable Fitting establishes a secure electrical connection between the motor and the battery . This allows for efficient power transfer needed to drive the vehicle.
The motor wire connector goes into the hole next to the fan on the rear frame . The side that has the threads goes inside the box with the metal nut, and the other side goes outside the box. Be careful with the threads.
The Controller :
The controller manages the flow of electricity between the battery and the motor. It converts the direct current (DC) from the battery into alternating current (AC) for the motor.
When you press the accelerator pedal, the controller receives a signal indicating how much power is needed. This input tells the controller how fast to spin the motor.
The controller adjusts the voltage and frequency of the electricity sent to the motor, controlling its speed and torque. This allows for smooth acceleration and deceleration
Installation : One controller is needed per vehicle, and it is typically placed in the same location, located in the rear part of the frame. The plate already has four holes, but to align it properly, check that is in front of the Rear Fan and the motor cable fittings, and make any necessary adjustments. After positioning it correctly, use four 1/4”-20 x 1-1/2” bolts, each with a nylon insert nut. The bolts should be inserted from the bottom of the plate, passing through the controller (inside the box).
What it is ?
The main contactor is like a big switch that connects the battery to the rest of the EV.
When you start the car or press the accelerator, the control system sends a signal to close the contactor, allowing electricity to flow from the battery to the motor.
When you turn off the car or release the accelerator, the contactor opens, cutting off the power and isolating the battery for safety. (or If there is a problem as too much current )
Installation:The A+1 side of the MC faces the rear side of the box and the -A2 side faces the front of the box (the contactor will operate in either direction, but it is so that the incoming positive voltage goes to the +A1 pole of the contactor). After that use two #10-24 x 1” machine screws with flat washers and nylon insert nuts to hold it to the plate. The screws goes from the outside bottom to inside the control box
All wires are labeled on both ends. There are three main types of wire terminations inuse: Rail Ferrules for connecting wires to the DIN-rail blocks, Spade Terminations for wire to wire and wire to relay connections, and Ring Terminations for attaching wires to a stud or bolt.
The DIN-rail is numbered and color coded to match the wires.
Rails are also set up to have the same number on either side of a terminal block to make wire to wire connections clear.
All relays have 12volt DC coils(85,86) with a normally open(87), normally closed(87a), and common(30) spade connections.
The drive relay powers on the Control Box Rail fuse blocks A through D.
The abbreviation used is DRV.RLY followed by the pin #.
The drive relay utilizes four connections: Pin 85 is the coil12v source, it triggers on when the key relay is active. Pin 86 is the coil 12v return. Pin 30 is the switched 12 volt power, supplying 12 volts to the control box rail fuses when the relay is on. Pin 87 is the 12 volt source for the switched power, it draws power from the auxiliary battery.
Connections :
Pin 85: White 18 AWG, 13”
Pin 86: Black 18 AWG, split
9” and 5”
Pin 87: Red 10 AWG, 8”
Pin 30: Blue 10 AWG, 8”
The DC to DC relay allows the DC to DC converter to charge the auxiliary battery.
The DC to DC relay utilizes four connections: Pin 85 is the coil 12v source, it triggers on when the pack relay is active, allowing the auxiliary battery to charge when the key is on or the traction pack is charging. Pin 86 is the coil 12v return. Pin 30 is the switched output to charge the auxiliary battery, and pin 87 is connected directly to the converter output.
Connections:
Pin 85: Orange 18 AWG, 11”
Pin 86: Black 18 AWG, split
9” and 5”
Pin 87: Green dual 12 AWG,
connected directly to
the DC to DC converter
Pin 30: Blue 10 AWG, 8”
Separate the orange and black fan wires, along with the dual green and dual black wires from the DC to DC converter.
The orange and black wires go into the control box rail(RCBX) in blocks #11and #23 .
The dual black 12 AWG from the converter going into #20 into the control box rail(RCBX).
Place the wired relays into the box at right angle to each other next to the RCBX.
Attach the dual green 12 AWG wire from the converter to pin 87 on the DC to DC relay.
Mount each relay to the plate using one #10-24x 3/4” machine screw and nylon insert nut.
Connections:
Drive Relay 85, White wire to #3
Drive Relay 86, Black wire to #21
Drive Relay 87, Red wire to #W, with 30A fuse
Drive Relay 30, Blue wire to #A, Fuse block source
DC to DC Relay 85, Orange wire to #11
DC to DC Relay 86, Black wire to #21
DC to DC Relay 87, Green dual wire to converter
DC to DC Relay 30, Red wire to #X, Fuse block source
The auxiliary battery uses a red 10 AWG wire to connect the positive terminal, and a black 10 AWG wire to connect the negative terminal. The battery terminals each use a M5 x .75 x 15mm bolt, with a washer on either side of the terminal and wire termination, and a lock washer and nut to hold it all together. The red wire(20”) goes into fuse block Y as a source, and the black wire(16”) goes to #24 on the control box rail.
The control relay is used to control pack voltage to the key on pin of the controller.
The control relay utilizes four connections:
Pin 85 is the coil 12v source, it triggers on when the drive relay is active.
Pin 86 is the coil 12v return.
Pin 30 is the switched output of the relay, allowing pack voltage to turn the controller on when the relay is active.
Pin 87 is the switched voltage source, and gets power from the un-switched side of the main contactor.
Connections:
Pin 85: 37” Orange 18AWG
Pin 86: 39” Black 18AWG
Pin 87: 8” Yellow 12AWG with inline fuse holder
Pin 30 is Controller Specific and installed later
ASR72: 10” Red 18AWG
H9X1: 25” Blue 20AWG
C1238: 6” Blue 20AWG
The Hyper 9 motor uses three 1/0 AWG cables with 1/2” motor lugs. The motor cables are fed through the 1-1/4” fitting in the rear of the control box, one at a time, from the outside to the inside of the box. Remove hoods before inserting into fitting. Align the ends of the cables inside the box to match up with the corresponding controller locations. Each termination uses an M10 x 0.75mm x 40mm bolt, flat and split-lock washer. Feed the sensor cable through the conduit fitting before the motor cables.
The controller cable connects the switched side of the main contactor to the traction pack positive input of the controller. The Main contactor uses 5/16”-18 flange head nuts to secure the terminations.
The high voltage conduit spans the length of the vehicle. One end is connected to the control box in the rear of the vehicle, with the other end connected to the battery box in the front. It contains two cables to carry power to and from the traction pack and controller. The red cable is positive voltage, the black cable is negative. In the control box, the short cable side of the HVC, the black cable attaches to the controller B- terminal and the red cable attaches to the main contactor +A1 post. The DC to DC converter, control and reverse relays are also connected to the main contactor +A1 post. The DC to DC negative input is connected to the controller B- with the black HVC B-. The order is from most current on the bottom to least current on the top: High voltage conduit on the main contactor, DC to DC input on top of that,the relay wires next. The HVC is secured with a metal nut on the inside of the control box.
Overview: The control box is installed onto the rear of the floor. The low and high voltage conduits exit the rear of the box and follow the lower rails of the chassis forward. The motor cables exit near the rear center of the box and attach directly to the motor.
The control box is positioned on the rear of the floor behind the seats.
Place the box in the vehicle with the conduits facing the rear of the vehicle, slightly leaning on the seats.
The low voltage conduit is fed between the rear passenger side corner of the floor and chassis, and routed forward along the chassis.
The high voltage conduit If left on, feed it though the driver side corner of the floor and chassis as was done with the low voltage conduit.
The flange on the rear of the control box should touch the rear of the floor.
Remove the Fitting: Unplug the fitting from the high voltage conduit and attach it to the control box.
Insert the Cables: Push the cables through the fitting until the orange conduit reaches it. Make sure the labels say “CTRL.B-” and “MC+A1.”
Reconnect Everything: Secure the conduit and reconnect the cables to the controller and main contactor.
Check Cable Length: Ensure there’s not too much excess cable in the control box—about 6 inches for MC+A1 and 20 inches for CTRL.B-.
Align the Conduit: Position the conduit along the vehicle’s length.
Insert the Long Cable: Start with the longer cable and feed it through the triangle between the beam, floor, and chassis on the driver’s side.
Continue Feeding: Push the other cables and conduit up until they cross the middle beam tube inside the inner plate.
Secure Cables: Temporarily lift the cables off the floor for the upcoming battery box installation.
Attach Conduit: Use zip ties to loosely secure the conduit along the chassis, keeping it off the ground while allowing movement.
From the back of the vehicle, run the conduit forward along the floor under the lower rail. Feed it up through the passenger front triangle, opposite the high voltage conduit. Then, place it between the lower beam tubes and drape it over the brake cluster for the low voltage panel. Use zip ties to loosely secure the conduit along the floor, keeping it off the ground but allowing movement during the low voltage panel installation.
Connect the motor cables according to the labels. Both the Hyper 9 and AC35 have three connections: U, V, and W, along with encoder and thermal probe connections. Make sure to connect all motor cables and cover the bolts with the provided hoods. Use zip ties to secure the sensor wires to one of the cables to protect them from wear due to vibration.
To secure the control box to the floor, use four 5/16”-18 x 1” bolts with fender washers. These bolts should go through the floor and control box, secured with a washer and nylon locknut. You'll need to drill 3/8” holes in the designated spots, making sure to check the expanded metal position first. Drill in the center of a diamond shape, not along the edge, as the diamond openings can vary between floors.
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