Build and understand a 3D Printer

Since the first 3D printer was built by Charles W. Hull in the 1980s, 3D printers have become much more available and affordable. Although there are several different types of 3D printers, in this unit we will focus on fused deposition modeling (FDM), the dominant desktop machine due to its low price and ease of use. To get a full understanding of how a 3D printer works, lets put together the Ender 3 Version 2 and discuss how the parts and components work together.

Interested in getting one? Click here and also find information about the machine.

Are you building the Ender-3 V2 Neo? Click Here

Ender 3 V2 Installation VideoEnder 3 V2 Installation Video

Storage of the Ender-3 V2

Ender3-3 V2 Storage.docx

Click on the image on the right to follow the complete directions on the build. Although, to learn about the features of the machine, refer to the steps below.

Lets build an Ender-3 V2 Printer!!!

(above) The tool drawer will have the tools, SD card and adapter, and a glue stick. Keep them in the drawer when dissembling.

(above/left) Make sure the T-nuts are turned sideways in the left Z-axis profile. Refer to the image to the left.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Be gentle when inserting the screws into the profiles. You don't want to strip the threads.

Do not turn the bottom screw on the coupler. The 1/4" gap gives you clearance so you can insert the countersink screws into the profile.

Let's look at the extruder assembly on your printer and get a better understanding on how it works before we build this part.

Collect the XE-axis and have the extruder assembly available.

Now refer to the notes below.

What is the Feeding Mechanism?

This is where the filament is feed into the 3D printer. The motor that turns the feeder gear can change speed (feed rate) depending on the purpose.

Feed rate changes depending on how much filament you want coming out of the nozzle.

The spring allows tension to the gears allowing it to grip the filament as it feeds it into the machine. This tension can be adjusted by tightening/loosing the screw going through the spring.

What is the Hot End?

As the filament goes through the feeding mechanism, it will enter the heat sink where a cooling fan draws air across the aluminum cooling fins keeping the channel and filament at a non-melting temperature. Once it passes through the heat break, it will melt inside the heater block. So as more cooled filament is pushed to the melting chamber, melted filament will be forced out of the nozzle. The amount of filament coming out of the nozzle depends on the feed rate given as well as the layer height of the build.

Note that there is a silicone covering that helps insulate the heat of the heat block.

What do the Cooling Fans cool?

Above you learned about how the hot end works on a 3D printer. In order for it to work properly, certain areas need to be kept cooler than the melting point of filament. This is where the fans come in.

The first fan keeps the heat sink cool. If it didn't have the cool air passing through the fins, the heat from the heat block will climb pass the heat break and will cause a major filament jam inside the printer.

The second lower fan blows cool air down at the filament of the layer being made. This helps the filament keep the form of the nozzle diameter.

Prusa MK3 Cooling Fans

The image to the right is showing the Ender-3 V2 cooling fans incased in the vented cube above. Fan 1 cools the heat sink and the fan 2 cools the filament exiting the nozzle. Label 3 is the exit of the cool air. Notice how it is directed towards the nozzle and platform of the printer.

Ender-3 V2 Cooling Fans

What about the nozzles?

The standard bore diameter for an FDM 3D printer nozzle is 0.4 mm. However, nozzles can be swapped out for those of a different size; small-diameter nozzles are useful for fine details on the X-Y plane, while large-diameter nozzles can deposit more material at once, leading to faster printing.

Although there is no set time frame for changing or replacing your nozzle, we recommend that you do so every 3-6 months. Replacement time is very dependent on how frequently you use your 3D printer, the type of filaments you use, and the quality of your nozzle.

IMPORTANT NOTE - The nozzle kit is connected to the main chassis via loomed wires. Be careful not to add any extra stress.

Top View of installing the Z-axis

When installing the gantry profile, gently line up the rollers on each profile and gently push downward making sure the T-type screw on the back-left side is lined up with its threaded hole. Then move the T-type screw into the hole by moving the coupling on the bottom. Don't touch the greased T-type screw.

Hand screw the 4 bolts in until the are threaded. This ensures that they are lined up and the screws won't be stripped.

When installing the Display Kit, remove the front right cap to the lower profile of the chassis. Next, turn the nuts and run them through the grooves of the profile. Then tighten.

NOTE - The print preheating standard is adjusted at the factory, PLA preheating standar: nozzle temperature 200 degrees F, hot bed temperature 60 degrees F.

Remember this? In order to get the filament to the extruder, open up the feeding mechanism by squeezing the the tension spring. Manually push the filament through the opening while the feeding gears are apart. Watch the filament move through the translucent tube until it gets to the top of the extruder.

Its time to print something!!!

Let's learn how to use the PrusaSlicer to Slice a 3D model

Take an item that you 3D designed in CADD and make sure its on your virtual desktop.
On your virtual desktop, open your PrusaSlicer by clicking on the icon(left).
If you get a configuration window, make sure to click on the "Other Vendors" and check the box next to "Creality". This will allow the PrusaSlicer to slice objects for the Ender-3 V2 printer.

Let's start with the ...

Try printing this -

Disassembly and Storage

Make sure to preheat the machine and remove the filament by pressing the lever on the feeding mechanism (a) to relieve the pressure on the filament. Pull the filament all the way out of the tubing.
Remove the drawer. Make sure to inventory the contents (blue handled side-snips, 3-4 Allen wrenches, flat head screw driver). Replace in printer.
Remove filament from the spool holder. Put the end of the filament in the small holes along the outside of the spool. Put back in the filament box on the side table.
Turn off and unplug the power cord from the power supply. Remove cord from machine. Wrap up with black twist tie and place in correct storage location (refer to image below).
Remove the four black M5X25 screws that hold the gantry to the Z profiles (b). Make sure the screws go into the labeled ziploc bag. If its missing or not labeled, get a new ziploc or bag from the instructor.
Remove the spool holder (c) from the gantry. Keep the screws and nuts on the assembly. Remove the barrel and nut. Place in the correct storage location (refer to image below).
Disconnect the wires to the Z-axis motor and the Z-axis limit switch (d). Use the small screw driver and add pressure to the small tab on the connectors. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE PRESSURE. If the wire won't come out, please ask instructor for assistance.
Unscrew the pneumatic connector in the XE-axis kit (the feeding mechanism where the filament is fed into) (a).
Turn the silver coupling (e) to raise the X-axis profile (f). When the screw (g) is out of its hole, raise the profile up and set on counter for further disassembly.
Loosen the X-axis tensioner (h) by turning the blue knob. Remove the belt ends from the extruder assembly (i). Wrap up the belt and place in the bag with the pneumatic connectors, etc. Place the tensioner in the top storage area of the box (refer to image below).
Remove the X-axis tensioner (j) and the Z-axis passive block (k). Make sure to remember which screws went to which screw hole. These will need to be screwed back into the profile after the extruder assembly is removed. Set everything to the side when complete.
Remove the XE-axis kit (l) by removing the screws. Find the holes in the kit to make the removal easier. Replace the screws in the correct holes in the X-axis profile when the kit is removed.
Slide the black plastic tube from the storage box over the T-type screw. Do not touch the screw (g). This will remove the needed grease from the T-type screw. Unscrew the T-type screw from the coupler by loosening the upper black screw only. Make sure to tighten this black screw back into the coupler when the T-type screw is removed. The T-type screw will be place inside the Z-Axis Profile (m).
Turn the printer to the right side. Loosen the screws that hold the Display (n). Also, gently pry off the profile cover (o) on the front of the machine so the display can slide off when loosened. Gently remove the wire connection from the back of the display. When removed slightly tighten the nuts to restrict movement of the three screws and nuts. These will be stored with the display.
Turn the machine to the rear. Locate and remove the two screws holding Z-axis motor and coupling. Screws are located below the coupling (p). Place the screws back into the storage M4X18 bolt bag.
Remove the Z-axis limit switch (d). Retighten the screws and nuts. Place in storage Ziploc.
Now set machine on a side. Remove the 2 bolts holding a Z-axis profile. Remove both profiles (m) and place the four M5X45 screws back in the storage bag.
To set up the storage box, refer to the images below. Ask your instructor if there is any questions, concerns or comments. Your name goes on this box so when the next group sets it up they should not have a problem.

Ender-3 V2 Neo

If you are dissaemblying, make sure to follow the steps below in reverse order. Be nice and leave a nice note for the next users of your printer.

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