Mar. 9, 2013

Tokyo sightseeing & Lucio's 60th Birthday party.

This morning marked the start of our 10th day in Japan. Having already visited all of the places on Darrell's mental list with only Lucio's 60 th birthday party to attend this evening, we had a free day to sight see. We were up, fed, and ready to meet Chieko in the lobby by 8:30 am. She led us to the subway where we boarded a few trains until our first destination of the morning.

Chieko wanted to show us the Sensō-ji Temple also called the Asakusa Shrine located in the Asakusa district in Taitō, Tokyo. It is located in the north east part of central Tokyo right next to the Sumida River. This district was the major entertainment district in Tokyo famous as a cinema and theater district for most of the twentieth century.

After making the long walk past the all of the souvenir shops, marveling at the beauty of the temple, and enjoying the meticulously kept gardens we exited the grounds and walked through the nearby streets filled with shops and restaurants. Here is where I saw my first example of a true Japanese invention...the Rickshaw, which is believed to have been created in the mid 1800's after the lifting of a 250 year ban on wheeled vehicles. There were some very interesting trinkets in the shops. I was fascinated by a shop selling hand carved wooden owls. Each owl had its feathers depicted by holes carved into the wood. Through these holes, the artist carved another small owl inside of the center of the outer owl. I had to get a few to bring back home.

We grabbed a cab and made a short drive to the Kanda district nearby. The Kanda district is the bookseller's area in Japan...a proverbial candy store for Darrell. Of course we made it into a few shops, so Darrell could quench some of his thirst for the written page. We spent a little time in a Barnes & Noble type retail shop with 4 floors. The spread of titles was massive. Everything from Ultraman to Freddie Mercury not missing much in between.

All of that bookstore browsing made us hungry, so we walked to the Suito Pozu Gyoza house. Darrell first ate there in 1985 and has returned for the wonderful gyoza dumplings every trip to Toyko since. Suito Pozu is a tiny place serving less than 20 people at a time, so there is always a line outside and a risk of them selling out for the day. We were lucky to arrive when the line was short. After a wait of about 15 minutes, we were seated. I've had my share of gyoza, pot stickers and the like both at home and in many restaurants. After having Suito Pozu's gyoza, I can easily see why Darrell returns whenever he is in Tokyo.

Stomachs completely satisfied by the two dozen gyoza, it was time to change gears. This morning we saw examples of old Tokyo, so we thought some contrast would be in order. We drove to Tokyo Midtown to see how the very old has turned into the very new. Tokyo Midtown has very old history. During the Edo Period (1603 ~ 1868) this site was the villa residence for the feudal lord of the Mori Family, a member of the Hagi Clan. In the Meiji Period (1868~1912) the area became an army post. After World War II it served as a location for U.S. military officer housing. After the U.S. occupation the site was used as the Hinokicho government building for Japan’s Defense Agency. To this day the spot retains many relics testifying to a long and illustrious history. For example, the rock work drainage ditch of the remains of the Mori Family’s villa is currently used as a retaining wall. The 140 or so trees planted on the old Defense Agency grounds, meanwhile, have been effectively transformed into the greenbelt area of Tokyo Midtown. It houses retail shops, restaurants, office space, hotels, and museums.

We took a look around inside the shopping area where we saw a number of interesting shops. Went into the Japanese sweet shop Toraya Tokyo and then into the Dean & Deluca. Looking at all of the delicious foods brought on the need of a little afternoon treat because the gyoza were beginning to wear off a bit, so Darrell led us into the Toraya Tokyo café for some Japanese sweets and tea.

The sweets and tea in the Toraya Tokyo café were very traditionally Japanese, very beautifully made, and good. After a bit more browsing around, Darrell wanted to take a look at the Ritz Carleton Hotel. We rode the elevator up to the lobby, which is very uniquely for a major hotel, on the 45th floor. We went into the lounge with it's 40' ceilings and amazing views of Tokyo from 45 stories high. Even though we just had some Japanese sweets and green tea, Darrell wanted to partake of a more traditional tea, so we sat with menus in hand and ordered. Our Tea saw us starting with a cocktail, a sample of two aperitifs, two Japanese whiskeys, a three layered snack tray, and some English tea.

I'm sure the Ritz Carleton Tokyo could definitely qualify as swanky by the definition of most people. The tea was good but the snack tray was less than what most would expect. The views, for those without a fear of heights, were spectacular. After we finished our tea, we took a look at the very select cigar humidor and special spirits display. It was now time to get back to the hotel and freshen up a bit before we had to hit the subway again for our commute to the Chianti-Quattro Restaurant to celebrate Lucio's 60th birthday. The Pizzeria Trattoria Chianti Quattro Shell Crab is located in the Shibuya area of Tokyo, just a little south east of the central part of Tokyo. We boarded a train at the Plaza station and got off at the Shijuku station. The restaurant was a few blocks away. We had a short reception with Champagne and various appetizers at the bar.

Dinner was held in an upstairs room. The courses reflected an Italian theme with very fresh Japanese ingredients and a touch of fusion. The conversation was very festive and we all enjoyed celebrating this 60th birthday of Lucio's. After seven courses were served with numerous wine pairings, the party was moved to the restaurant's café a few doors down for more food, more wine including a bottle of 1953 Chateau d'Yquem, and cake. Here is what we were served;

4 kind of Bruschetta,

Beef Rillettes, Vegetable puree, Marinara Sauce, Olive Paste

Crab(hair crab) and Oboro tofu with soy sauce

Oboro Tofu

Half-curdled tofu produced in the making of tofu.

Mushroom Salad

Negitoro (Green Onions & Tuna)

Mediterranean Sea food

Carbonara

Fried Softshell crab & Picoroco

Ishigaki beef cheek Agrodolce and roasted WAGYU with spring vegetables.

Spring vegetables

Fried sliced Gobou

California Roll Sushi

Fire Roll Sushi

Birthday Cake

Lucio's two venue 60th birthday party was wonderful. The food and company couldn't have been better although there was really more food than most of us could eat. The 1953 Yquem was spectacular and quite a treat. Even though Lucio was thousands of miles away from his family on this special birthday, the group of us this evening, some old friends, some new filled in pretty nicely by the look of the continuous smile on Lucio's face. It was late and time to climb into a cab so we could make it to the hotel for a needed night's sleep.

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