12 April 1934

ON THE OVERLAND TRACKS 

DROVING IN THE THIRTIES

The most important single event in our early history was the opening of overland communication with the eastern colonies. 

On April 2, 1838, Hawdon, after pioneering the route, arrived with the first consignment of cattle. Thereafter a succession of overlanders brought herds from the rich eastern pastures. Here is the description of one such journey, from Goulbourn to Adelaide, by a 'James Snape, Esq., late of Chester.' It was written November February, 1839-1840. 

"We started on the 13th of November last with three teams, two of them bullocks, and the other one drawn by horses, the former loaded with twelve weeks' rations for twenty-two men, which was the number of our party, and the latter carrying a portable stockyard for the horses. Our stock consisted of 500 head of cattle and a 100 horses, most of them young, sound, serviceable animals, many of them very valuable. The whole party was under the charge and management of Mr. Craig, who is, I believe, principal superintendent of Mr. James McFarlan's different stations, to whom and to his brother, Duncan McFarlan, Esq., of Adelaide, the stock belongs. 

Mr. J. McFarlan accompanied us beyond Yass for the purpose, as he expressed it, of seeing the party fairly started and past the public houses, a precaution necessary where so many servants not much used to forbearance were of the party. 

The face of the country beyond Yass is very mountainous, and the landscape appears rich. The grass was just recovering from last year's drought, and afforded plenty of feed for the stock. 

"Four day's stages brought us to the Murrumbidgee which is a fine and rapid stream, out at this time it was risen very high on account of the heavy rains which had given it a wider and more rapid stream than usual. About thirty miles further on, we came to the Gundojee [Gundagai]  district, situated on an apparently rich and extensive flat as the grass in some places was growing breast high. The river takes a complete circle round the flat or marsh. 

There are a great number of small settlers in this part and there is also a store and an inn kept by a Mr. Andrews. It is here that the Port Phillip and Port Adelaide roads part, the former crossing the river, and the latter leading off to the right over the Gundojee ranges. 

We here gave the cattle a day's spell — such is the country's phrase for a day's rest. I took the opportunity of making enquiries of Mr. Andrews respecting the road and the country-round us. He informed me that we should be a day crossing the ranges, a distance of only three miles. We found his statement perfectly correct, as the ascent up the mountain seemed almost perpendicular, and a person, to look at it, would scarcely think it possible for drays to cross. As it was, we had to yoke all the bullocks to one dray and drag it up, and so, alternately, until all three arrived at the summit. 

"Then began the descent, which was much more easily accomplished than the former, having only to cut one or two trees down which were fastened behind the drays to prevent them going down too suddenly. We had some old and experienced bullock drivers with us, and they told me they had crossed many a steep hill but nothing when compared with that. I believe that few people travel this way as they prefer to cross the river at Gundojee and recross it a few miles further down, by this means avoiding the ranges. 

"After we had crossed the mountains, the face of the country was much altered, it being for the most part dead flat, extending N.N.W. upwards of 270 miles. We passed by the stations owned by Mesrs. Thorns. Jenkinson and Smalls, which last is the lowest station on the Murrumbidgee. About four miles from the abovementioned place there are the ruins of a hut which Mr. Small had intended to have formed into a station, but was not able to do so on account of the hostility of the natives. It was here we overtook Captain Finnis's party, who were proceeding with 5,000 sheep to the same destination as ourselves, under the direction of Mr. Kessop, of the Royal Navy. 

"We were now upon the outskirts of an immense plain which took us seven days to cross. Day after day, the feed became less, the tracts began to wear a more barren appearance but the stock were never at a loss for feed, as we always found plenty in the points of the river, which the cattle and horses appeared to be very fond of.  

About the sixth day, the appearance of the country began to alter, passing through high reeds. It was here for the first time that we fell in with a small tribe of natives. They appeared to show every sign of peace and friendship, helping us to carry wood for the purpose of making fires round the cattle. 

Upon the seventh day, we reached a fine large plain interspersed with fine large timber, which is always a certain proof of the ground in the locality being of rich quality. We camped within two miles of the Lachlan River. 

Next Friday, the 28th December, we crossed it. It was very small at the time, and presented more the appearance of a creek than a river. We had here the misfortune to break one of the axle-trees of the drays and, not having a spare one to replace it, were obliged to leave it behind — under our circumstances, a sad inconvenience. We had moreover the misfortune to lose a horse which got into the river and was drowned. 

The natives here were less friendly; a fine bullock was speared by them but not dangerously hurt. The land in this tract lies low and has evidently at some time or other been under water. It was here that a tremendous storm of wind and rain visited us, which continued nearly the whole night and. most unfortunately for our creature comforts, we had pitched the camp on very low ground, where, towards daybreak we were up to our knees in water, our shivering frames giving us no indifferent idea of the comforts and luxuries of a bush life. 

There are abundance of reeds on this side of the Lachlan which our stock had been enjoying the benefit of during the last five days. They gradually decreased until we arrived at a small sandy plain, which, having crossed, we passed through a belt of bush seven miles in width, occasionally interspersed with sandy hillocks. It is here that the river takes a great turn to the southward. 

On the 29th we passed Lake Staplyton and on the succeeding day reached the junction of the Murray and the Murrumbidgee, which is here a broad, deep and beautiful river. We here saw numerous bodies of natives, all of whom appeared friendly. They are a much finer race of men than I have yet seen— tall and well made in proportion. 

"January 1st. — Passed Lake Bernice. Crossing a deep creek we had great difficulty in getting the horses and cattle to take the water, it being the first time they had had occasion to do so. Travelled for two or three days over immense high sand hills covered with brush, which the cattle and horses got remarkably well through.  

Friday, 10th.— We passed over Golgol Creek. The feed for the stock for the last day or two has been very bad. We met Mr. McLeod's party loaded with a dray full of rations, who were making the best of their way to meet Mr. Kessop. 

Sunday, 12th— Within a few miles of the Darling River, which I have great cause to remember. The saddle horses had strayed a long distance to look for food, and I proceeded after them for some miles, when I had the misfortune to dismount and lose my horse, and not having taken particular notice of the many twists and turns I had taken, I mistook the direction of the camp, and, what made my condition worse than it would otherwise have been, that part of the country was thickly peopled with natives who, if they had fallen in with me, would effectually have put a stop to any more horse hunting on my part. 

To my great joy, however, I reached the river after following which for a few hours brought me to the camp. The party there appeared to be quite surprised that I had arrived with a whole skin, as they afterwards informed me that a hundred blacks had taken the direction that the horses had strayed. In the afternoon of this day our party encamped on, the banks of the Darling, and were busily employed making the cart watertight to answer the purpose of a punt. 

"Friday, 24th.— Travelled ten miles over a range of very high sandhills covered with thick scrub, which brought us in sight of Lake Bonney, where we camped without water. This was a barren looking country, and we were obliged to tie the horses up all night, fearing that they might make for the water, the river being distant about six miles. 

The second day's stage from Lake Bonney brought us to a range of sandhills; and as there was plenty of food in their neighborhood, we gave the horses and cattle a day's spell. The country now presented a curious and wild appearance. Some of these hills were two or three hundred feet high. We have often kept the river in our view for miles and been unable to procure a drink owing to the steepness of the banks.  

Wednesday, 5th.— Made Mr. Duncan's sheep station, a distance of 24 miles over very hilly country; the nearest place we got water was called the Springs. It was very brackish and the quantity of it was not sufficient for the cattle to drink, go we drove them on a few miles further. About sunset arrived with them near a chain of ponds, most of which were extremely salt and, I am sorry to say, through the darkness of the night and the eagerness with which the horses rushed to the water, five or six were most unfortunately drowned. This was happily the last of our casualties, and our charge was, in a few days, safely delivered into the hands of Mr. Duncan McFarlan.— 'Kestril,' Norwood.

'Slogger'

In Port Adelaide a few years ago there was a cricket team of local schoolboys who won every match they played. Their success was due mainly to the captain, who was known as 'Slogger' Joe. 

But 'Slogger' had a bad reputation as a window smasher. The women of the district heard about 'Slogger,' and when his team was playing near their homes they would 'bar up' the windows. 

One Saturday, when the captain was batting, a dear old lady was warned to guard her windows. 'Oh, nonsense,' she said. 'He can't knock the ball over here.' Sure enough, the next ball went clean through the window. The old lady started to scream, so Joe ran over to express his regrets, at the same time assuring her that the window would be repaired. 

Joe asked a spectator at the match to mend the broken pane. When the job was completed the man gave the old lady a bill for 3/6. 'Oh. I thought the little boy was your son, and that it would be free,' said the lady. 'Nothing of the kind, madam. I never work for nothing. Besides, the boy told me you were his mother, and that you have plenty of money,' said the man.— A. Daly.

Johanna Comes Home

In a bricked-in back yard, of some flats at Henley Beach, Bid kept rather a queer assortment of pets. 

Julius Caesar and Johanna, two bobbed tailed sleepy lizards, were chief favorites. These were great pals with a white rabbit, who was never happier than when he was in their box cuddled up with them. 

As the summer went, Bid was persuaded to take Caesar and Johanna to where the long grass grew, and to give them their liberty. He was inconsolable for a long while. But as the winter passed he seemed to forget his pals. 

The warm days came again, and on one of these there was a call from one of the flatites. 'Bid. come and see who's here.' And to Bid's great delight Johanna had come home. She was lying in the sun by bunny's cage, she had slept all the winter, but the sun and its warmth had turned her thoughts back to her old friends. 

— C. Billing, North terrace, Mount Gambier, S.A.

Hidden Wealth

In the Flinders Range, running 300 miles north and south through South Australia, is evidence of practically every known metal and mineral. Most of these are as yet unexploited. Radium, a very rare metal, has been obtained in these ranges. 

One day, an Aborigine discovered a curious hole in the side of one of the hills. The opening was overgrown with bushes and hardly more than eighteen inches across. Yet, when a stone was dropped into it considerable time elapsed before it struck the bottom. The native showed this hole to a prospector (the late F. W. Montague), who decided to investigate. 

He was lowered through the opening by means of a rope and found himself in a large cavern almost 50 yards square. This chamber was lined with glistening stalactites. Further search revealed layers of guano. This had been deposited there in past ages by millions of bats which had made the cavern their headquarters. 

Tests were made and the guano proved to be a valuable fertiliser, so a company was formed to work the mine. Over 30 tons of fertiliser is transported each week to Adelaide, and realises up to £11 per ton. Gardeners and fruit growers on the Murray have used large quantities of it. — 'R.V.H.,' Yeelanna.