Old Port Adelaide

OLD PORT ADELAIDE

EARLY DAYS OF ALBERTON.

(By A. T. Saunders).

10 February 1914

In an examination of the papers of an old Portonian, who recently died in his 90th year, there was found a conveyance of block 69, "Albert Town," now called Alberton, from John Parsons, of "Albert Town" licensed victualler, to George Appleton, of "Albert Town," laborer, for the sum of £10. How well I remember Parsons' Coromandel Hotel, on the front of which was affixed the model of a man-of-war, presumably the Coromandel, with her guns run out and ready for action. John Parsons was a carpenter on a warship, if I remember aright, and that ship model was afterwards moved to the Australia's Pride, Port Adelaide. Parsons meantime keeping the Shipwrights' Arms, Alberton. 

In the forties of last century Port Adelaide was very loyal, and in commemoration of the marriage of the Queen and Prince Albert the twin townships of Queenstown, in which I was born, and Albert Town, were named. Albert Town, belonged to the South Australian Company and was irregularly laid out.

Queenstown was regularly laid out, but on a strictly commercial basis. Every foot was sold, and no reserves or open spaces were dedicated to the public, but in Alberton there were and still are several squares. The opening of the new port in 1840 caused considerable settlement in Albert Town and several hotels were built there. The Albert Hotel, a white two storey place, afterwards owned by Captain Simpson and dwelt in, after being closed as an hotel by Mr. John Neill. 

The Coromandel, before mentioned the Shipwrights' arms, opposite Mr. Leslie's school, and the British Standard kept by that fine old character, Ben Mockridge, who was also a man-o'-war carpenter, and a clever tradesman, who built a large part of the Port Adelaide wharfs. Long before water was piped to Port Adelaide Mockridge had a nice house in Alberton, and, wonder of wonders, a fountain, which at times spouted real water. He also had an extensive aviary, in which were pheasants and other rare and showy birds. Perchance the pheasants were some of those, or their progeny, imported by W. S. Whittington in the brig New Holland, or that mechanical and financial failure, the steamer Courier. Mockridge had been in the Mediterranean when Navarino was fought, and as a boy listened with avidity to his yarns of that period. 

Strange to say, there was no hotel in Queenstown, which was a reserved and aristocratic, suburb to Port Adelaide. At the moment I think there is only one hotel in Queenstown, the Prince of Wales, and that was licensed in my recollection, having previously been a general store. 

Albert Town was a sort of Alsatia, inhabited to a large extent by fishermen, whose nets and tin pots were a feature of the landscape. The Woolmans, from Heligoland, Mazeys, Lillias, Bamptons, and Whites were fisher families. It should be remembered that Alberton was the first dry land from Port Adelaide, which latter, and Portland Estate, were built on a swamp from which the water was more or less kept out by mud banks. I saw both Portland Estate and Port Adelaide inundated owing to the breaking of the banks, the first in November, 1859, and the second in 1865.

Sandhill Disasters.

To return to the old deed. Lot 69 was about 50 ft. by 260 ft. to St. Georges place and Divitt-place. John Parsons sold it to George Appleton for £10, and George Appleton declared that "no woman who shall become his widow shall be entitled to dower out of the said hereditaments," I wonder what that means, and why it was put into the deed. The signature of John Parsons is witnessed by Frederick Wicksteed. G. H. Barnard being deputy registrar. When this was sold and when I was a boy, sand was a nuisance in Alberton and Queenstown in many places. In some remote geological ages Alberton and Queenstown were the beach of a large sea which had piled up sandhills for several miles from where and a little beyond the Alberton railway-station now is, to the old Port-road and the Port River. When the road was being made from Alberton to the Port, and after drags going to the Port empty for back loading were made to carry a load of sand to the Port to fill in the holes. Now the sand is valuable, and the few sand-hills are being rapidly used for building purposes. 

The wind played curious pranks with the sand. I remember a brick cottage, belonging to Widow Munro, in Queenstown, was overwhelmed and buried by a sandhill, and for years was out of sight. When the sand was required it was removed, and the buried cottage was again inhabited. At the Semaphore a curious affair occurred. One Sunday afternoon a boy named Ghrimes [see letter below], of 8 or 10 years of age, left his home for Sunday-school, and was never seen alive afterwards. The whole country was scoured; his photograph was circulated; a reward was offered, without result. Years afterwards, when he had been forgotten, the wind shifted a sand-hill, and the body of the boy was found standing upright in the sand. He had gone to the top of a sandhill, the lee side of which was smooth owing to the sand's gradual advance, and had, boy-like, slid down the smooth face of the hill, thus disturbing the dry sand, which had fallen upon and smothered him. This boy's father had been steward of the ship Yatala, if I remember aright, and had been accidentally shot in the knee. He afterwards kept an hotel in Glanville.

A Regatta at the Port.

I recently saw a solid silver cup which I remember seeing 50 years ago. It is inscribed:

Port Adelaide, Regatta.
Prize Cup. First-class Sailing Boat
Won by the schooner Red Jacket.
6th March, 1855.
H. D. Dale, owner.
Hugh Quin, coxswain. 

Here is an account of the race:

"First race, sailing boats, without restriction. Course, from the flagship in Port Adelaide, round the lightship, and back. First prize, silver cup, and ten sovereigns added; second prize, ten sovereigns." At 12 minutes past 9 the race started. The Endeavour seemed almost gigantic beside the other boats, as her canvas arose. Almost immediately the Medora, owned by Captain Douglas, led off, but kept too dose to the north-east shore. The Red Jacket, owned by Captain Dale, and built for the regatta by Mr. Playfair of the Port, attracted attention. With ease she got the Endeavour on her starboard quarter, but a fresh breeze soon afterwards favored the Endeavour and she changed places with the Red Jacket, leaving her on her lee. At the false arm the Endeavor was conspicuously in the front. At Pelican Point the T.D., Tinpot, and Jane turned tail from the strong south-west wind and heavy sea, and returned to the Port, which they did not reach till after the winner and second and third boats. The Red Jacket now displayed her sailing qualifications in a sea way. Followed by the Endeavor and the Medora, she rounded the lightship 22 minutes before any other boat, and from this till 1.40 p.m., when she arrived at the flagship she maintained the foremost place. The Medora beat well up, and like the Red Jacket was handled with great skill. She was declared second boat at 2.15. and the Endeavor took third place, coming up to the buoy at 2.20. The distance from flagship to lightship is about 14 miles."

The Murray Trade.

On the same day as the regatta there was launched the iron steamer Leichardt, imported with the Sturt, and put together in Port Adelaide for the Murray River trade. She was christened by Mrs. Acraman, wife of the late John Acraman, of Acraman, Main, Lindsay, & Co. On Sunday, November 16, 1856, an attempt to run the Sturt, which was built after the Leichardt, through the Murray mouth, caused the loss of two lives and an heroic display by Captain H. D. Dale, and the carpenter of the Sturt. Mr. Acraman, who was on board, wrote the following:—

"Left Port Elliot 7 a.m. and arrived off the sea mouth about 8.30 a.m. The Sturt passed through the three or four outer breakers with ease, and without shipping any water, when Captain Nation, thinking her too far west, brought her head round to the east, when she almost at once grounded on a sandbank. To prevent the rudder being injured by the shock from the sea, the wheel was left free, and then the rudder chain parted in consequence of the rudder being struck by a sea. A horseman appeared on the beach, and was sent to The Goolwa for all the large boats which could be obtained. About 4 p.m. the only available boat arrived from The Goolwa, and the mate of the Sturt and three of the crew weighed the kedge and laid it down further astern. The bower anchor was then placed in the boat with hawser and small line attached. This being done the men pulled the boat astern by means of the warp attached to the kedge, and having reached the proper position, were throwing the bower anchor overboard when the fluke caught the boat's gunwale, and as the men rushed to the side to clear the anchor the boat upset, almost immediately sank, and almost immediately floated again, when two of the men were seen clinging to the boat and the mate was seen floating with the assistance of an oar, close to the boat, but the fourth man, after rising once or twice, finally sank. As soon as the accident occurred Captain Dale and the carpenter put off in one of the small boats and were followed by two of the Sturt's crew in another boat, which was almost immediately struck by a sea and nearly filled. It was with the greatest difficulty that they reached the shore, one man sculling and the other bailing the boat. Meanwhile Captain Dale and the carpenter had picked the two men off the capsized boat, and after a hard pull of half an hour's duration safely reached the shore. The mate was swept out to sea through the outer breakers by the current, and after remaining in view of those on board the Sturt for about 25 minutes was lost sight of and drowned. The courage and coolness of Captain Dale and the carpenter cannot be too highly praised. At all times it is difficult to take a man out of the water into a small boat without upsetting it. In this case the difficulty was tenfold worse, two men being taken on board in face of a heavy sea and a strong current and safely landed on the beach. Nothing but great coolness and tact could have accomplished such a feat. Captains Dale, Tapley, Simpson, and French were on board, having come round from Port Adelaide in the Sturt. The Sturt got off later and reached The Goolwa with little damage."

Old Ships and Captains.

It seems such a pity that one or two of our merchants did not preserve their old "Lloyd's Registers" of shipping. I have hunted high and low for them, without avail. The Underwriters' Association has a copy for 1849; there is a copy for 1856 in the Public Library; and I have a copy for 1864. At Fletcher's Slip, Port Adelaide, there are copies for some of the fifties and sixties. In 1849 it was not compulsory for ship masters and mates to have certificates of competency, but many men voluntarily passed, and the names of those who passed till May, 1849, are included in "Lloyd's Register" of that date. Some men of 20 had passed for master; others were over 40 before they passed. In the list is Henry David Dale, who passed for master when he was 24. There are very few names of ship masters known in Port Adelaide, then or thereafter, in "Lloyd's" of 1849.

Old Portonians will remember the Firefly cutter, built by Mr. Cruikshank in Port Adelaide and launched January 22, 1855. My notes show that the Firefly cutter, H D. Dale master, arrived February 1, 1860, from King George's Sound, Cheynes Beach, and St Peter's Island. I never heard of the two latter. On June 4, 1853, the steamer Lady Augusta, 19 tons, Captain William Davidson, in ballast, sailed from Sydney for the Murray River. Captain Davidson was well known in Port Adelaide in the schooner Hawk, brought here in the forties from London by G. W. Brown, who was buried in Alberton Cemetery, August 1, 1877, in the grave he had made years before. 

After 1853 Captain Davidson was master of the barque Omagh for years and of the paddle steamer Goolwa, built for Captain Parfitt, late of the P. & O. service, Philip Levi, and others for the Port Augusta trader She was a failure for this trade. Her large deck-house was taken off, and, she was used as a tug in Port Adelaide, but could not compete with the less powerful, but more handy Eleanor, and was sold to J. & A. Brown, of Newcastle. Captain Davidson bought the small brig Emily Smith, and was drowned with his second wife, family, and crew, except the cook, who escaped, when the Emily Smith was wrecked on Kangaroo Island. 

Miss Dora Davidson, now of Port Adelaide, was on board the Lady Augusta when she went through the Murray mouth, and was the first white woman to enter the Murray from seaward, and the Lady Augusta was the first steamer to do so. The first Murray steamers were in several cases failures. The Leichardt, Sturt, and Frances Cadell, iron steamers, were withdrawn, and sold to Java, New Zealand, or Queensland. The Gundagai, also an iron boat, was not a success. The Settler was sold to Queensland, and ran from, Ipswich to Brisbane for years. The Moolgewanke, an iron steamer, was put on the trade from Port Adelaide to Port Gawler, Captain Sam Wilson, afterwards captain of Block 14, Broken Hill, being in command. The wooden boats built on the Murray seemed to be the most successful. Many of them used to be brought to Port Adelaide with their barges during the wheat seasons and low rivers of the early seventies.

I can remember the Albury, of Johnston and Murphy's line, running excursions to the Galatea man-of-war, about 1868. The incursion of freshwater sailors into Port Adelaide was not relished by the saltwater sailors, though some of the river men were saltwater-bred; Captain A. C. Sunman, for example, who had been in P. & O. employ. "Give her a stroke sideways," was the joke I have heard hurled at Captain Johnston when berthing the Albury alongside the wharf. 

Artemus Ward wrote:—"The captains of the steamers on the Upper Ohio put on a heap of airs, but they have not tasted salt water since they were children, when their mothers gave them some to kill the worms." For three or four years I forget, from Port Adelaide to The Goolwa, South, and another steamer whose name I forget, from Port Adelaide to the Goolwa, via Ports Victor and Elliot. Acraman, Main. & Co.'s Kennedy and Culgoa, with their barges, carried wheat from Port Wakefield in the seventies, when ships of 1,000 tons could not load down to their marks in Port Adelaide, and had to finish at the Semaphore. T

here was a nice little Murray River boat—the Jolly Miller was her name, I think—whose engines did not work direct, but drove a pinion, which drove a larger cogwheel. The stern wheel boat Lady Daly was in Port Adelaide, and was built there, I fancy. A. Graham, of The Goolwa, was a shipbuilder, and built the screw steamer Napier, but she was not a success. Potts, of Wellington, built the cutter Swallow, which traded from Port Adelaide for years, and was sold to Melbourne. Curly-headed Lewis was master of the Swallow for some time, and left her for the Prima Donna ketch, which was lost with all hands.

Advertiser (Adelaide, SA : 1889 - 1931), Tuesday 10 February 1914, page 11

To the Editor.

Sir- I read with great interest the statements of Mr. A. T. Saunders in your issue of the 10th inst., about the old days, and can endorse them nearly all. But he did not go back far enough in history. He tells us nothing about Sam Salter and his first mail cart on the Old Port-road, or about Robert Grant with his spring-cart, the only passenger conveyance between the New Port and Adelaide for a long time. Grant used to change his horses and make several trips a day. Nor did Mr. Saunders speak of John Hill, the bosun of the Buffalo, who supplied Alberton with drinking water for some years. He brought it in barrels on a horse-dray from the old Halfway House, which is now called Woodville. The first school-teacher was Miss Nichols. Captain Scott used to preach to us. As to the agree-ment conveying block 69, Albert Town, from John Parsons to George Appleton, this was signed in a small house that John Parsons had a license of before the two storey hotel was built that Mr. Saunders refers to. The small public-house was in the next street to the Commercial-road. I was born at Alberton on September 12, 1841, and I remember when there was only one pub-lic house there. That was the Shipwrights' Arms. It was first kept by Harry Catchlove. I claim to be the oldest one alive who was born at Alberton, or the New Port. If I could hear of anyone older than I am I would be glad to meet him. If I knew Mr. A. T. Saunders' address I would try to meet him. We could get up a good tale about old times.- I am &c.,

W. HORNE.
125 Flinders-street, Adelaide, February. 12, 1914.

Sir-

In reading the article, ''Old Port Adelaide," by Mr. A. T. Saunders, I was greatly struck by an incident relating to to a sandhill disaster, mentioning the case of the boy Grimes, not Ghrimes, as stated by the writer. Let me give the facts of the case. 

The lad, as stated, was between 8 and 9 years of age, living with his parents at Kew. His father had not very long given up keeping the Thornton Hotel. The lad on this particular Sunday had received a beating, and left home with the intention of going to Sunday school, when he was missed, and not seen again for a year exactly to the day when I he was found by me purely by accident.

The finding of the boy happened in this way. Just behind the lad's home was a sandbrick wall, where we as boys used to climb and jump off of. Opposite on the north side was a sandhill, which we used to slide down. On this particular Sunday I made the suggestion to the other boys to take off their boots, which we all did. I started digging with my hands in the sandhill a hole so as to hide my boots. In scraping my hand I struck something hard, which I partly cleared away, and on first sight thought it was a water melon. I told the boys; they came to look; I called my dog, and he scratched away and brought to our gaze a human skull. It had a piece of leather right round it, such as in hats; also a band with gold letters, of the name, of one of her Majesty's ships. 

I ran home and got my father, who brought a shovel. He was keeping the Kew Hotel at the time. When he started digging he remarked, "I wonder if it is little Charley Grimes," which, by the dress and other things, it proved to be. He was in a sitting position, with his legs up the hill. 

It seems strange that in looking for the lad we were over this hill several times, but nothing seemed to be shifted, as it had plenty of grass growing on it. We did not think that for one year we were sliding over his remains. There was a reward out for the lad, dead or alive, and as I was the finder, I was entitled to it, but I did not receive one penny, my father not allowing me to take it.

- I am. &c; 
CHAS OTHEN Carlisle street, Glanville, February 12, 1914.

Advertiser (Adelaide, SA : 1889 - 1931), Wednesday 18 February 1914, page 5

Surname: GRIMES
First Names: Charles
Death Date: 16-Apr-1882
Age: 8
Gender: M
Marital Status: C
Place of Death: Kew
Residence: Hindmarsh
Relative: William GRIMES (F)
District: Port Adelaide
Book/Page: 126/407