No 35 Riverton

Riverton means just what the name signifies— the town on the river. The river is the Gilbert. In dry seasons you couldn't find it with a microscope. But you should not let that deceive you. If you struck it in flood time you would know all about it. The Gilbert can be the demon of a river when it likes. That is characteristic of many of our northern streams— the Gilbert, the Broughton, the Rocky, the Light, and the Burra— to mention a few at random. You are apt to scoff at them contemptuously until you meet them in a wild and merry mood. Then, as you gaze over miles of madly whirling water, dead sheep, and floating debris, you will take back all the nonsensical things you thought. I can give you the story of the beginning of Riverton in three lines. The story of its development would fill a volume. The town was laid out in 1855 on section 500, Hundred of Gilbert, by James Masters. He purchased the section at auction for £620 in 1853.

Story Of James Masters

When the Africaine cast anchor at Holdfast Bay on November 12, 1836— that was a fortnight before the Buffalo arrived with Governor Hindmarsh — her passengers included Robert Gouger (first Colonial Secretary), Robert and Mary Thomas (of "Register" fame), John Brown (first Emigration Agent), and — James Masters. It is remarkable how widespread is the belief that the first people to reach South Australia came in the Buffalo. I have heard that asserted in the most unexpected quarters. It shows how history can be forgotten in the course of a century. The fact is that when Governor Hindmarsh was carried ashore on the back of a sailor on December 23, 1836, there were over 300 colonists waiting to receive him, and they had been fuming and fretting for weeks because of the failure of the Buffalo to put in an appearance. James Masters was amongst them.

Masters began a pastoral career almost immediately. In partnership with Price Maurice — he who some years later acquires Pekina station at Orroroo from Chambers Brothers, under circumstances I narrated a couple of weeks ago — he took up a holding at the Reedbeds. The estate was called Springhill.

First Exhibitor Of Wool

In his young days Masters was a "live wire," though his later years were cursed with ill-health. My records do not show when and how he became the owner of the old Commercial Inn in Grenfell street, which used to stand where Brookman's Building is today. In the article on Saddleworth next week I will publish a picture of the old hostelry. It was in 1840, while he was in possession of this public house, that Masters took up the country on which Saddleworth and Riverton stand today. His career as a squatter was little different from others I have described in the course of these articles. So, apart from the fact that he called his homestead "Saddleworth Lodge," after his birthplace in England, I will drop the story of his sheepfarming ventures and confine myself to the coming into existence of Saddleworth and Riverton. But I ought to mention one historically important fact. James Masters was the first man to exhibit wool at a show in South Australia. This was at the initial Adelaide show in the North Parklands. He didn't take a prize, because there was no prize to take.

Towns Established

Saddleworth is two years older than Riverton. It was laid out in 1846. The first allotments, however, were not sold until 1853. Riverton was laid out in 1855. Saddleworth Lodge was an open house for travellers. The hospitality of Masters was proverbial. From an old record left by the Rev. E. K. Miller I am able to give you a picture travelling conditions as they existed in 1850. when Masters was considering the establishment of Riverton, Mr. Miller's account deals with a journey he made from Clare to Saddleworth Lodge that year.

There were no roads. All travelling was over mere tracks, and as other tracks branched off these at frequent intervals, the unfortunate voyager rarely got to his destination without wandering miles out of the way. No one ever thought of erecting signposts. A star by night or a tree by day were considered sufficient landmarks, in Miller's case the direct distance to be covered between Clare and Saddleworth Lodge (Riverton) was only about 25 miles. One morning after finishing service at Clare he set off with a light heart for Saddleworth Lodge. As the fairy books say, he rode, and he rode, and he rode, but he never seemed to get appreciably nearer his goal. There were no fences those days — just open country and tracks looking as though they might have been made by wandering sheep.

Night came on and found him still far from his destination. Then he hit the Gilbert River, and he knew he had overshot his mark. By now horse and rider were utterly weary, as they made their way back over their tracks. Miller found a deserted hut, and, the night being cold, started to make a fire. But he had no matches. So he lay down and tried to sleep. The hut was full of fleas. They and the Night God kept him busy until midnight, when he heard a dog bark. The sound was as sweet as a love song. The traveller followed the sound until he came to a shepherd's hut, where he enquired the direction of the station. The man pointed to a star. "Follow that for two or three miles," said the man, "and you ought to strike it."

I don't know what would happen to me if I got a direction of that kind. I think I would take the advice of my friend. Mr. Emerson, and hitch my automobile to that celestial body. But Miller took the shepherd's advice, and reached the Lodge about 3 a.m.. dragging the shivering Masters from his warm bed.

It was Masters who built the picturesque old church on approved English lines which dominates Riverton today. There is a picture of it in the supplement. I had a look at the building. The door was invitingly open, so I went inside. There I saw a tablet: —

"In memory of James Masters, late of Saddleworth Lodge, who died at the city of York, England, on the 4th of October, 1861, aged 60 years; also of Elizabeth Masters, relict of the above, who died at Saddleworth Lodge, Riverton, on the 28th of October, 1864, aged 62 years."

Masters went to England for a holiday because his health was failing. But he got worse, and died before he could return to Australia. [See also "Dinner to James Masters" South Australian Weekly Chronicle 10 Dec 1859. Note the guest list and the interesting toasts.- Ed.]

Saddleworth Lodge Destroyed

I asked to see Saddleworth Lodge. My guide shook his head. "I can show you what is left of it," he said, as we viewed the distant ruins from the top of a hill, "but years ago Saddleworth Lodge was destroyed by fire." The fire occurred on an exceedingly windy day. A child belonging to one of the maids was playing with matches, and lit a candle which she left burning. The flame caught the curtains. The fire burnt for a long time before it was discovered. It was then too late to save the building. At that time, however. Masters was in his grave, and the property was in possession of his nephew, Charles Swinden, whose acquaintance we will make presently.

Rev. J. B. Titherington

In the old cemetry, now closed, I stood beside the tomb of the Rev. J. B. Titherington. In one of my previous articles— Auburn, I think— I told you about this pioneer parson who was drowned in attempting to cross the flooded Light. That was on October 1, 1867. Through the courtesy of Mr. O. H. Castine, I was able to secure some new facts concerning the eccentric old scholar, who for some years was rector of Riverton and its associated churches.

Titherington originally was a non conformist — a Baptist—who came to Australia from Liverpool in 1846. At that time a sohism developed among the adherents of the Rev. T. Q. Stow, and the seceders placed themselves under the pastorate of Titherington. They worshipped in McGowan's school room in Stephens place, Adelaide. Probably there are few living now who remember the place. About this time Zion Chapel, in Pulteney street— by the way, it has just become a church again, after being used for years as a garage— was built, and proposals were made for Titherington's congregation to move there. But they never came to a head. Titherington went into retirement for a couple of years after this, and then joined the Church of England. He was ordained in 1849 or 1850. His first appointment as an Anglican was to St. Peter's, Glenelg, then, after several years, to All Saints, Hindmarsh. His third charge was Riverton, and it was there he mysteriously disappeared until his body was recovered some days later from the Light. It is presumed he fell into the river while crossing it on horseback by a log bridge— the only means in those days of getting to the other side if there was no ford. The inscription on the monument is:—

"In Memoriam, John Bisbrown Titherington, sometimes incumbent of Holy Trinity Church, Riverton, who died October 1, 1867, aged 59 years. Vir Bonus et doctus erat."

No Stone To Grace His Resting Place

A few yards away I espied an en closure of rotting pickets overrun by a rank growth of weeds. There was no tombstone. The place looked pathe tic in its very desolateness. "Whose grave is that?"I asked.

"Charles Swinden is buried there," was the reply. Charles Swinden! Nephew of Masters, inheritor of his fortune. Former owner of the country that is Riverton and Saddleworth! And not a stone to mark his sleeping place! It was staggering.

I immediately set out on a quest of Swinden's history. All the time I could see that neglected grave about which the only living things were probably the snakes hidden in the dry grass. You will share my surprise when I give you the extent of Swinden's holdings: —

• East of Peake ... 60 sq miles

• Near Mount Scott ... 63 sq. miles

• Near Port Augusta ... 36 sq. miles

• Mount Samuel .. .. .. 27 sq. miles

• Mount Deception ... 20 sq. miles

• North of Port Augusta ... 104 sq. miles

• Mount Remarkable ... 100 sq. miles

• N.E. of Port Augusta ... 43 sq. miles

This is not a complete list. So far as I can total the holdings, they exceeded 500 square miles. And here he is, buried at Riverton without a stone to mark his grave!

Swinden was only 35 when he died. But he crowded a lot of life into that comparatively brief period.

The Lost Goldfield

I suppose, from an historical point of view, the most interesting thing in connection with Swinden was his discovery in 1866 of a goldfield in the bush. The secret of its location perished with him. Here is the story. In the year mentioned Swinden, with only a black boy as companion, penetrated into rough country some 150 miles north of Port Augusta. On his return he showed his friends some rich gold specimens he had picked up dur ing the journey. To all requests for information about the find he shook his head.

"Wait," he said. "I will tell you in good time." But two circumstances occurred to prevent the secret being revealed.

First, the black boy was accidentally killed shortly after his return from the expedition. Then Swinden was stricken down by illness. When he was sick he was pressed for the secret, but refused to disclose it.

''When I get well I will tell you," he promised. But he never got well. He died without telling anybody where he found the gold. When he knew his end was near, that life was merely a matter of hours, he managed to gasp— "Go west!" But the bush still holds the secret of the gold. Such, in brief, was the life story of the man beside whose grave I stood, wondering why nobody had erected a stone to his memory.

Riverton in '66

The other day, looking through an old gazeteer of 1866, I came on a description of Riverton for that period. To those who know the town today it makes interesting reading. For instance, after enumerating several neighboring towns, it remarks: —

"The communication with these places is by horse or private conveyance, and with Adelaide 683 miles S.S.W., from Marrabel or Auburn by Rounsevell's mail coach to Kapunda, and thence by rail."

Later I read: —

"Riverton has one hotel— the Riverton — a post and money order office, telegraph office, public pound, five stores (one of which employs two saddlers), a large wheat, store, two blacksmiths' smithies (one of which employs two wheelwrights), three shoemakers' shops, and one butcher's. The masons' and carpenters' trades are well represented, there being five of the former and five of the latter. The post and money order offices, and registration office for births, marriages and deaths, are situated in a building attached to one of the stores. A local court is held on the first Wednesday of each month in the large room of the hotel, and a sum of money has been voted by the Government for the erection of a courthouse and police station, which will be commenced shortly. There is a neat church and parsonage (Church of England), and a Bible Christian chapel, two Sabbath schools, and a public school house, with master's residence nearly completed. . . The resident magistrates are M. Moorhouse and T. Giles, Esqs."

"M. Moorhouse, Esq.," was Dr. Matthew Moorhouse, first Protector of Aborigines. We will meet him next week at Saddleworth. "T. Giles, Esq.," was the squatter of Anstey and Giles fame, grandfather of the present M.P.

Horner's Store

In the hall of the Riverton Institute I talked with Messrs. John Mclnerney (chairman of the Gilbert District Council), E. A. Gray (district clerk), O. H. Castine, R. H. Cooper, R. J. James, and H. A. Davis. I asked them who was Jub Horner, because, on the wall of Trinity Church, I had seen a tablet erected by Masters to the memory of John Jub Horner, who died in 1858 at the age of 47. They could not tell me, however, why the squire of Riverton had gone out of his way to perpetuate the memory of Riverton's first storekeeper and postmaster, though there must be a story in it.

Horner's store in the fifties was the commercial emporium of Riverton, where the settlers, in the leisurely mode of the day, were wont to gather for social intercourse as well as business. There also the sins of the Government — and what Government is without sin?— were debated with all the ardor of a period when politics loomed large in the public mind. Horner's was a club as well as a store and a post office— not a recognised club with big lounge chairs and deferential waiters carrying trays of iced cocktails, but a place where you stood round with your hands in your pockets, or cleared yourself a seat on the counter and dangled your legs while you waited for your letters, the while exchanging opinions with your neighbors on the topics of the day.

This store was at the south end of the town. It was a good stone building of a type much in vogue at the period— an "L" shaped villa at each end with the shop in the centre. Its several windows were of the large 12 pane type so popular in England in the days of good Queen Bess, and so unpopular with those whose duty it was to keep them clean. It stood back from the road.

In the days when John Bosworth ruled the neighboring Edgehill station Horner's store was the scene of an annual excitement. This was the Sunday school picnic — not the type we know today, but something having the same significance locally as a Test match or a Melbourne Cup might have elsewhere. It was the habit of Mr. and Mrs. Bosworth to entertain the whole of the Sunday school children of the district in the picturesque station grounds once a year. That day there was a grand procession of children down Torrens road to Horner's store, where each child received an enormous currant bun before proceeding to the grounds. This is the same Bosworth who for years was a member of the South Australian Parliament, serving in both Houses. Recently the district council com memorated the Horner family by conferring the name on a street. The site of the shop and house of the Horners is now covered by the home of Mr. W. H. Davis.

The Busy "G"

I started an argument when I enquired about the first hotel. Was it the Riverton or the old Mill Inn? I am plumping for the Riverton on the strength of the old gazeteer I mentioned earlier, though it is possible that the Mill Inn may have come and gone before 1866. If the point is of importance my advice to you is to get hold of the old licensing records yourself, take a three months' holiday, and spend it with your nose glued to a cartload or two of dusty, old documents. It is because that sort of holiday doesn't appeal to me that I haven't done it myself.

What I can tell you in a general way about these early houses is that the Riverton was built by Fred Hannaford, an uncle of the present M.L.C. The Mill Inn, unless I am gravely mistaken, is also connected with the legislature, for it was built by Howard and Gordon, the Gordon concerned being an ancestor of the present president of the Legislative Council. [See letter 8 June 1933]. For our old friend, Sir David Gordon, is a Riverton product— and a very fine one too. The Mill Inn was so called because it was built in front of an old mill which, like many others of its type, went the way of all earthly things when it was gutted by fire. The old inn has also been demolished this last quarter of a century. In its conception the inn was built as a store, but before it was completed it was turned into a licensed house. One of the owners of the old mill— not the hotel — was a storekeeper named Gurner, a forebear, I believe, of Mr. Walter Gurner former president of the Adelaide Stock Exchange. I mention the fact because of a witty paraphrase of a popular verse perpetrated by a local wag at Gurner's expense: —

How does the little busy "G"
Improve each shining hour.
And gather money all the day
From every bag of flour.

Pioneer School

The schools of the fifties and the sixties, before we evolved the elaborate and expensive system of education in vogue today, have always intrigued me. The story of Riverton's pioneer school is not without interest. Of course, it was a bush school.

It was located on Olley's farm, about two miles to the east of Riverton. The teacher was Mrs. Beck, whose husband worked on the farm. It was just a small cottage near the Olley homestead which the Beck family occupied as a residence, used as a school on week days, and as a Primitive Methodist chapel on Sundays. Mrs. Beck was a tall, sedate, and rather dark complexioned woman of about 30 when she ran this establishment some 70 years ago. The little cottage has long since been demolished, and the farm today is in possession of a son of Mr. W. Hannaford, M.L.C.

Rather a long step from that little effort to inculcate the three 'R's' to Riverton's big high school of today where Mr. A. C. Hitchcox, M.A., presides over a staff which writes M.A. and B.A., and other terrifying letters after its names, and talks to you glibly about all the "ologies" to be found in Webster — and a few more.

Riverton's second school was quite as interesting as its first. This time the teacher was a man— named Fry. The venue was the Parish Hall, built by Masters. Its location was the north-west corner of the old cemetery. It was a stone building with a thatched roof. To prevent confusion with the present parish hall, which stands near the same site, I ought to mention that the building has been demolished for many years. Masters gave the land on which it stood, stipulating that portion was to be devoted to a cemetery and portion to a union Protestant church. The yard of deed conveying this gift is, I believe, still to be seen at the Church Office in Adelaide.

Wouldn't Give Up The School

I cannot tell you offhand what year the Government school was started, except that it was in the sixties. I can tell you, however, of the rare old shindy, reminiscent of a meeting of the Sinn Fein party, which attended its coming into existence. The teacher was a man who knew what his rights were and how to stick up for them. He was a big stout fellow who failed to "hit it" with the local authorities. There was a good deal of heated bickering between the master and the local body which controlled the school. The upshot of it was that the teacher was invited to retire. That was just what he did not intend to do. He consigned the council and every one connected with it to the nether most corner of— Port Augusta. He adopted as his motto, "Here I am and here I stay."And he lived up to it. He rolled up his sleeves, and invited those who favored his retirement to come along and have it out. Meanwhile educational progress in Riverton came to a standstill. A new master arrived, but found the doors locked, barred, and bolted, and the residence ditto. The old master was like a giant besieged in a castle. This went on for a whole year before the stubborn dominie was eventually ejected. Meanwhile the authorities had to rent another building in which to conduct the school. The teacher sent up to oust the irate defier of the world was the late Inspector Mitton.

One other incident in the educational history of the town before I pass on. Fifty-four years ago, when it became necessary to vacate the school to enable extensive alterations to be made, the classes were held in the railway goods shed.

NEXT WEEK SADDLEWORTH: The Rainbeard Murder.

Images

• Viewing the latest thing in engines. Riverton railway station over 50 years ago. Compare this with the picture in the supplement of the same station today. Courtesy of Mr. O. H. Castine.

• Riverton in 1879 from an old sketch. Courtesy of Mr. O. H. Castine.

• Vault of the Rev. J. B. Titherington, a pioneer parson, who was drowned when crossing the Light in the early days.

• Grave of Charles Swinden, who owned the station on which Riverton now stands. There is no stone to mark his resting place.