Chapter III

Chapter III. — Memories Of Auburn

Situated some 70 miles north of Adelaide, and lying in the valley of the River Wakefield, is the pretty little town of Auburn. The site was granted to Thomas Henry Williams, known as 'Piebald Williams,' as far back as October, 1849. He was at one time manager of the Burra Smelting Works, and co-operated with Mr J. E. Bleechmore in 1856 in cutting up the section into township blocks.

The very name of the township, associated as it is with Goldsmith's description of his 'Sweet Auburn' as the loveliest village of the plain, where health and plenty cheered the laboring swain,' induced me to believe that I should find it a veritable home where health and plenty were the dominant features. These anticipations, to a large extent, were verified in subsequent years.

Even whilst penning these lines I can recall to mind the many happy years spent within its boundaries. Nestling between two low lying hills, with the River Wakefield coursing through from north to south, it is certainly an ideal situation for a town with such an historical and rhythmic name. At one time rumor had it that one of the first lady residents had lovely auburn hair, and it was decided to name the town as a compliment to her. For this, of course, one is unable to vouch.

Many years ago a satirical paper when describing Auburn and its vicinity, including the residents, remarked, 'If you are of a marriage age, and a member of the male sex, stay away from Auburn; for the ladies there are so charming and most obliging, that almost assuredly one will be caught.' Fortunately that was the writer's experience. I have lately been reading a serial story, a tale of over 70 years ago, entitled 'The 3 L's, or Lawyer, Land Jobbers, and Lovers.' In it the author (who was said to have been a resident of Clare, some 16 miles north of Auburn) gives a vivid description of a very attractive lady, 'the eldest daughter of the late John Bouncer, Esq., of Auburn, South Australia, a fictitious name, of course. She is said to have had great influence amongst the local residents, who were nearly all farmers. The writer of the history omitted to indicate the precise color of the lady's hair; but, if it had been auburn, then I venture to believe that she was immortalised by her 'Cockatoo' friends, the farmers, when the new township was named.

A parody on Goldsmith's 'Deserted Village' appeared in the book, representing the feelings of one who had been unfortunate enough to be defeated by this lady in a breach of promise case. 'Vile Auburn! Hateful village of the plain, Where smiling dames deceive the thoughtless swain' ? and so on. Of course, his remarks were neither flattering nor true.

Court In A Stable

As far back as 1857 it is on record that Auburn consisted of an hotel, a store, and a blacksmith's shop. At the rear of the hotel were stables with a capacious hayloft overhead. In the latter dances were occasionally held, and it was likewise utilised as a police courtroom and post and telegraph office. About that time the Burra Burra copper mines were being fully developed, and the copper ore had to be carted from the mine, through Auburn to Port Wakefield, the nearest shipping port. Balaklava was then nonexistent, and the route to Port Wakefield was via Whitwarta.

The teams, drawn chiefly by bullocks and mules, had a camping ground at Auburn close to a waterhole on the River Wakefield, and not far from the hotel then kept by Mr. J. E. Bleechmore. This hotel was one of the most popular and best appointed in the north. Commercial travellers were wont to make it their favorite halting place, and every attention was paid to their varied wants. The table, or as it was then termed, 'the cookery,' was a specialty, and the food excellent.

Some few years ago, when travelling in Canada, I observed in a prominent place at an hotel in Toronto, the following: — One may do without friends, One may do without books, But civilised man cannot do without cooks. As there was invariably a good cook at the 'Rising Sun' Hotel, Auburn, the above quotation might have proved interesting to the then wayfaring public.

The township grew rapidly and all social activities grew apace with it. In 1859 an unpretentious library and institute were established, and it was said to be the 25th branch of the parent institution in Adelaide. For some time Gavin D. Young, of Watervale, was its president.

In 1860 the Postmaster-General (Mr. Charles Todd) visited the town and delivered a lecture on 'Telegraphy.' Shortly after the Government erected a substantially built post and telegraph office. About the same time a court house and police station and a public school were erected.

Town Rail Opened

In 1866 an imposing Town Hall was built at a cost of over £2,000. A limited liability company was formed to raise the funds in 800 shares of £2 10/ per share. Amongst the shareholders were Sir W. W. Hughes, Sir. G. S. Kingston, H. E. Bright, J. W. Gleeson, Thoman Neill, Arthur King, J. E. and Wm. Bleechmore, N, Sowton, and many others whom I have forgotten. The foundation of the building was laid by the Chairman of Directors (Arthur King) on January 1, 1866, amid much enthusiasm, and with Masonic honors, members of the Clare Lodge of Free masons attended for the purpose. The Auburn Lodge of Oddfellows also took part.

The minute book of the company records that by the special request of the directors, Mr. E. B. Gleeson, of 'Inchiquin,' Clare, was present. Mr. W. T. Bleechmore was the first secretary, and for some time the venture proved highly satisfactory. Subsequently it was not a financial success, and the building was sold to Francis Treloar, of Watervale. He afterwards resold to the Auburn Institute and Library, who are its present owners.

Early in the sixties a literary society was formed, and for many years successfully conducted its meetings either in the public schoolroom or in a corn store, then owned by William Wiles. With the erection of the Town Hall, of course, all such meetings were held there. Many prominent personalities visited the town in the 60's. Amongst them, I well remember, the then popular and talented Madame Carandini; the Rev. J. Maughan, whose favorite lecture was entitled 'Beefsteak and Apple Dumplings;' the Hon. W. Townsend, then Commissioner of Crown Lands, who devoted much of his time in the interests of the Blind Institution, and whose popular lecture was 'The Lights and Shades of London.' Others whom I well remember delivering lectures were his Lordship Bishop Short, the Reverends B. T. Craig and C. W. Hawkins, not omitting Charles Todd. The literary tastes of the residents in the district were indeed well catered for in those days.

Mr. Todd, the then Postmaster General, was recognised as being a marvellous punster. In 1893 a knighthood was conferred upon him for successfully superintending the erection and completion of the overland telegraph line from Adelaide to Port Darwin. The writer happened to be Minister of Education and Agriculture at the time. The Post and Telegraph Departments were then under the Minister of Education, and one morning Mr. Todd entered the office and excitedly exclaimed: — 'Oh, Mr. Minister, I am a benighted man.' I sympathetically replied, desiring to know what had occurred to cause trouble. 'See,' said Mr. Todd, 'what I have just received from his Excellency the Governor,' handing me a document containing the information that Her Majesty had been pleased to confer a knighthood upon him for the valuable services he had rendered in connection with the overland telegraph. The scene was changed. Most heartily I congratulated him. It was certainly a good play on words, well worthy of the punster.

In 1867 an arts exhibition and conversazione on a somewhat extensive scale was held. It proved to be a marked success, so much so, indeed, that for a time it became an annual fixture and was immensely popular. Printed pamphlets containing full proceedings of the exhibition in 1867, in all 19 pages, prepared by Messrs. Scandrett and Elliott, of Kapunda, were eagerly sought after. In perusing my copy I find J. H. Adamson was president, and J. G. Bremner vice-president. The hon. secretary and treasurer was James Malcolm, and the committee, Messrs. C. H Richardson, F. Goes, and J. W. Castine.

Gas In The Seventies

In 1871, still under the presidency of Mr. Adamson, who at the time was managing the extensive implement works at Auburn of Messrs. Adamson Brothers, a similar exhibition was held and for the first time north of Kapunda gas was successively produced, and the town hall brilliantly illuminated. W. F. Loutit was then acting as hon. secretary. Dr. Bain and the Rev. W. Davidson, both residents of Clare, were generous and valuable contributors. In fact, so popular had these exhibitions become, that exhibits and assistance flowed in from Adelaide, Gawler, Kapunda, Clare, and other centres. Prizes were usually awarded for poetry, essays, paintings, and prepared and impromptu addresses. The last of these exhibitions that I can remember was held in December 1889, under the title of 'Art, industrial and curio exhibition.' Mr. E. W. Castine was the secretary, with Messrs. E. G. Bleechmore and H. Schmidt as active and valuable assistants.

Ploughing Contests

As far back as 1857 ploughing matches were seasonable occurrences. On the open section, now known as the town of New Auburn, these matches were held. It was also here that horse races were frequently run. The railway from Riverton to Spalding now passes through the course. In 1857 the Northern Agricultural Society was established. The first secretary was Mr. J. E. Bleechmore. Shows were first held alternately at Auburn, Clare, Watervale, and Mintaro, and when, in 1872, Clare decided to run a show separate from the parent society, Saddleworth for a time filled the place rendered vacant. The late Sir J. J. Duncan was for many years president. To enumerate the long list of active workers for the society would be diffi-cult. Through the energies of the president it was subsequently Incorporated. Unstinted praise must be given to two local residents, who for yeans largely assisted in keeping the society well alive — Messrs. E. W. Castine and S. Dennison. These gentlemen today are members of the Legislative Council and House of Assembly.

Wheat First Sown By Machine

In all agricultural commitments. Auburn appears to have taken a prominent part. It is worthy of record, that it was the first place in South Australia-where wheat was sown by broadcasting machine. Local machinists in co-operation with a local resident, partly copying and improving upon an American invention, made the machine. In broadcasting the seed it covered some 25 yards, and so successful was the first trial that H. B. Hawke & Co., of Kapunda, made and sold hundreds during the following two or three years.

Later on A. W. Dobbie, of Adelaide, improved upon 'Hawke's Seedsower,' and today there are many machines In use made upon a similar design. This system of wheat sowing very soon superseded the old-fashioned seedlip, and the annual returns were largely increased. It is recorded that the wheat returns from 550,050 acres in 1868 only averaged 4.40 bushels per acre. In that year red rust also was responsible for some 55,000 acres not being reaped. Since then returns have been persistently on the upgrade, and the term 'bag' has been substituted for 'bushel' when estimating the yield, possibly due to the use of superphosphates.

The residents of the district were lovers of flowers, and led largely by Dr. Vogt, the local medical practitioner, flower shows were frequently held, dating back to 1877. The local post master, William Rossi, and his wife, were moving spirits amongst the flowers, and a flower concert with all the items cleverly arranged in order to indicate the character of the show, added greatly to the success of these exhibitions.

Electoral Districts

In years gone by, there was no electoral district of Wooroora. Auburn was within the district known as 'Burra and Clare.' Sir G. S. Kingston, K.C.M.G., was its representative in the House of Assembly. As far back as 1857 he occupied the position of Speaker. He died at sea in 1881. With the rearrangements of the electoral divisions and the new district of Wooroora formed, a lively discussion arose as to where the chief polling place should be. Both Auburn and Riverton fought for the pride of place.

A deputation from Auburn waited upon the then Attorney-General (G. J. W. Stevenson), being introduced by Sir G. S. Kingston. I well remember his sitting on the edge of a table fronting the Minister, addressing him in a somewhat dictatorial manner, and with a huge blackthorn walking stick that he invariably carried, emphasising his points. Once or twice the deputation feared for the safety of the Minister.

Auburn was not successful; Riverton received the honor, but an Auburn resident, Mr. J. E. Bleechmore, received the appointment of chief returning officer for the new district, with its attached emoluments. In those days deputations to the Government were of frequent occurrence, and considered of great importance In directing the course of legislation. It is recorded that one of the members of this deputation had a frock coat specially made in Adelaide, so that he might appear before the Attorney General fittingly dressed.

Native Cooking

There were many natives in and around the district in the early days. One of their favorite camping places was on the hill close to East Auburn, amid a clump of trees. Many an hour have I spent amongst them there, and it was there I learnt how to make a camp fire successfully. It may interest many to know the modus operandi. Their peculiar mode of cooking wallaby, opossums, and birds was novel and interesting. A circular hole about a foot deep and 12 inches in diameter was made. At the bottom were laid flat stones; these were then covered with hot wood ashes. After a time the ashes were removed, and the game, with its skin, fur, or feathers still attached, and bodies unopened, placed on the heated stones. A covering was then made of more flat stones, previously heated, and the whole covered with the hot wood ashes. In a remarkably short time the roasting was completed, and the animals or birds most easily cleaned and prepared for eating.

The late Mr. Thomas Worsnop, In his well-known book on 'The Aboriginals of Australia,' gives a full description of this process of cooking, remarking that the natives of many of the South Sea Islands also adopt a similar plan. literary

In days gone by opossums were plentiful, and on a moonlight night it was no uncommon thing to bag 20 or 30 within a few hours. Their splendid woolly skins were, however, worth only a few pence, in contradistinction to the prices given for them today.

The natives were generally of a most harmless nature, although at times they were guilty of terrible crimes. I once employed one named Jimmy Pike, who took part in what was known as the 'Rainburg Murder,' perpetrated near Kapunda. Jimmy, by turning Queen's evidence, received a pardon. He was a good honest worker, and appeared so quiet and harmless, that we readily employed him and his lubra, too. At times the writer attempted to act the missionary amongst them, reading and endeavoring to explain portions of the Holy Scriptures. All I can say is that they listened to me very attentively. Unfortunately, the romances surrounding our native aboriginals have practically disappeared.

Auburn Ford

At times the River Wakefield, named after Edward Gibbon Wakefield, became a wide and rapid stream, and the two crossings at Auburn were both dangerous and at times impassable. On one such occasion two men attempted to cross the higher ford contrary to the advice of onlookers, and they, with their horse and cart, were swept down the stream. One of the men was drowned and his body not recovered until a week later.

At the same ford on another occasion the two horse mail coach running between Kapunda and Clare got midway across, the river being in flood, when one of the horses fell and was drowned. The passengers were rescued with difficulty. One lady with her infant, was assisted to the top of the coach, and the infant, while being handed over to those assisting to land the passengers had a narrow escape from being washed down by the flood. Fortunately, for South Australia, this calamity was averted, and the babe is now proudly a witness to a second generation growing up around her.

I remember yet another incident that occurred at this crossing. One summer's day a man and his wife were driving into Auburn in a spring cart. Halting to give the horse a drink, and getting too near the upper edge of the ford, horse, cart and occupants were precipitated into the waterhole. In answer to cries for help, several of us went to the rescue, for both the man and his wife were up to their armpits in the water, and the horse and cart close by them. A change of clothes was necessary, an easy thing for the man. But the lady was of generous propor tions, tall and robust, and the largest outer garments obtainable were far too small for her. Binder twine had to be used to keep the bodice in place.

Bushranging And Horse Stealing

Bushranging and horse stealing in the '60's were not uncommon, both in South Australia and other parts of the continent. It is recorded that on one occasion some horses had been stolen not far from Auburn, and it was conjectured that the thief was In hiding in the then dense scrub between Auburn and Port Wakefield. A trooper stationed at Auburn was sent in search of the man. For some time no success was achieved.

But one day, noticing smoke arising out of the scrub some distance away, he made for the spot on foot, having tied up his horse to a tree. Armed with a revolver, he caught sight of the supposed thief, who was about to prepare a morning meal. The trooper accosted him in a threatening manner. The man surrendered, was arrested, and eventually convicted. The trooper admitted to me afterwards that he had omitted to load his gun, but did not discover the mistake until too late to do so. So he relied upon his authoritative demeanor to secure an arrest. By the way, this same trooper later on became Inspector of police, and was considered a most valuable member of the force.

Between 1865 and 1868 the district was visited by a grasshopper plague. It caused great destruction amongst the grass lands and wheat fields. In their migrations the insects were wont to camp for the night on a field of wheat or other standing crop, feeding ravenously on the succulent stem just beneath the ear of grain. I remember a farmer close to Auburn losing his crop in this manner in a single night.

Red rust was likewise an unwelcome visitor. In 1868, having a wheat agency, I purchased large parcels of wheat, but my principals, Messrs Beeby and Dunstan, millers, of West terrace, Adelaide, intimated to me at last that the grain was so small and shrivelled, that it was only fit for offal and of no marketable value. They were, therefore, unable to purchase any more of it. The farmers were great sufferers. Subsequent experience, however, proved that as good a sample of wheat could be grown from this shrivelled grain as from the plump grain not affected by rust. For milling purposes, however, the grain was of little use. And so South Australia, like all other countries under the sun, has had to combat these, and many other difficulties.

In the year of red rust, 1868, owing to the low prices of all products, severe retrenchment throughout the public service became a necessity. But in 1873, some five years later, the year opened under propitious assurances and conditions. There was a bumper harvest. Grain was of the best quality, and so abundant that £4 per ton freight to England was paid. Even then not enough shipping was available. The daily papers announced that 'We were suffering from a plethora of capital, and money is going begging.'

Church Sold For Debt

To the credit of the residents in this newly settled north country, whenever and wherever possible, places of worship were erected and generously maintained. Auburn was not an exception. It had a capacious Bible Christian Chapel, built some time before the Anglican Church.

Almost a romance surrounded the Anglican Church on the hill. Upon a block of land generously donated in 1862, a pretty little church was erected at considerable cost, and fully paid for. The individual who gave the land had unfortunately forgotten that he had previously mortgaged it, and failed to pay off the encumbrance. Some few years later a foreclosure resulted, and the property with the church thereon was publicly sold for a nominal sum to an Adelaide speculator. The position was a desperate one for the church officials. They, however, approached the purchaser, who after ascertaining the true position, most generously handed back the property for the amount he had bought it for. So full of sympathy was the general public, that even the aboriginal natives of the Poonindie Station made a special effort to assist in liquidating the debt.

'Auburn, a township of trees.'

So wrote a correspondent to one of our daily papers over 30 years ago. It then deserved that title, for some 30 years earlier than that the then local medico, Dr. A. Vogt, with a few other enthusiasts, planted trees of various kinds along most of the main thoroughfares. Today many of them add to the beauty of the town, although, some have, unfortunately, been re-moved.

An industry on an extensive scale was established some three miles distant, south of Auburn, known as the 'Koonowla Wine and Dairying Estate,' owned by Messrs. Sharp and Tothill, and personally managed by the enterprising partner, Mr. J, B. Tothill. A fine herd of dairy cattle was kept. The two industries of wine and butter making were eminently successful for a time, but eventually the cattle were sold and the wine-making industry ceased operating.

'Koonowla' was originally owned by Captain William Barkla, who in the early 50's was, with his family, brought from England to captain the then famous Kapunda copper mines. In 1862 he purchased this property, and went to reside there. It was for many years known as the 'Rose Hill' property. Subsequently it was named 'Koonowla,' this being a native name, indicating the home of the emu.

About three miles north-east of Auburn is a well developed homestead, named St. Andrews, where Messrs. Christison and Lyall for many years cultivated the vine and from their capacious wine cellars exported high class wines. The property until lately was held by one of the original owners, Mr. D. J. Lyall, a well known resident of the district.

The copper teams previously referred to on their way from the Burra to Port Wakefield had to pass over some particularly bad country. One place is well remembered as the 'Devil's Garden.' Another special spot the teamsters named 'Hellfire Creek.' Pine trees were cut from the dense scrub nearby and laid lengthway across that part of the roadway, making what was termed a 'corduroy road' crossing. It was very effective, and old residents take pleasure in pointing out the exact spot of the crossing. Today the roads in this part are especially good.

Speaking of this corduroy road. It may be of interest to mention that the following from Alec Cameron, Wallaroo, appeared in the daily paper of June 23rd, 1933:— 'The recent Back to Balaklava recalled memories of my youth in the early eighties, when large areas of scrubland were taken up by the selectors, north of the present town, embracing an area known as 'The Devil's Garden.' From some miles above Halbury a corduroy track ran through the scrub. I have vivid memories of several teams bogged, and almost embedded, for some days. The lurid language, added to the persistent crack of the whip as it re-echoed through the dense mallee, impressed upon my young mind the conviction that the area was aptly named. Those Burra bullockies were linguists, equalling, if not excelling, those that I afterwards met in the outback, including Boer or Kaffir or Arab camelier. Tday, 50 years later, prosperous farms (and overtaxed farmers) would resent the suggestion that the site of their homesteads was ever known as 'His Satanic Majesty's playground.'

I have already referred to the efforts made by Mr. J. E. Bleechmore to-wards benefiting the town and district. He was, however, not the only member of that family residing in Auburn. In all there were six separate Bleechmore families. Two were storekeepers, one a builder, one a bootmaker, and yet another an auctioneer and commission agent. The widowed mother and her daughter, also resided in the town, and many named the town 'Bleechmore Town.' All were good residents, and materially assisted in advancing the interests and welfare of the district. In 1884 a public banquet was accorded to Mr. J. E. Bleechmore, and he was presented with an illuminated address to mark his valuable public services. A large portrait painting of him was unveiled and presented to the Institute, where it now adorns the walls of that building. There is also to be seen in the reading room of the Auburn Institute a large framed photographic group of former residents who truly 'blazed the trail' in those bygone days. Next Week— Watervale and Penwortham.

Next - Chapter IV

See SLSA https://collections.slsa.sa.gov.au/collection/Auburn+Collection for a splendid collection of early Auburn photos.