This page contains the design and construction details for the Rev D version of the RS-HFIQ transceiver. As a result of our Kickstarter Campaign 80 backers will receive bare PCB's to populate. This page contains all of the available data for builder who want to populate their own boards as well as anyone who needs design data for the RS-HFIQ.
Disclaimer - The bare board is NOT a kit!
The RS-HFIQ Rev D PCB was designed for automatic assembly using a pick and place machine, soldering in a reflow oven and testing in an automated test bed. Assembling the board using hand soldering techniques is possible but should only be undertaken by builders with considerable experience with surface mount assembly techniques and RF circuit troubleshooting procedures and test equipment. HobbyPCB cannot provide support for builders attempting to turn a bare board into a working RS-HFIQ. If you have questions or need help please participate in the RS-HFIQ Support Forum and if your build is successful we encourage you to check the forum for questions from other builders. Due to our limited resources we do not offer repair or completion services for bare boards. The only 'get out of jail free' card we can offer is an assembled and tested RS-HFIQ PCB.
The BOM
The bill of materials (BOM) in Microsoft Excel format can be downloaded at the bottom of this page. Out of 111 different parts only a few parts are not available from Mouser. We have created a custom project at Mouser that has all of the Mouser components ready to order, access it here. Vendors for the remaining components are listed in the BOM file. While some shopping around may be advantageous (e.g. Arduino Nano is available from other sources a significantly reduced cost), going off-BOM and/or using 'junk-box' parts is a very bad idea. You might get away with resistors if you carefully observe the tolerance and power ratings, and some of the caps are low-compliance as long as the minimum voltage ratings are met, but that's where it stops. I can tell you that if you don't use a Murata 82153C inductor everywhere one is called out, the radio won't work. It's more than just 15 uH, you've got to look at the SRF, DC saturation and the L vs. IDC characteristics. There may be other inductors that would work but unless you are in a position to test/troubleshoot the possible issues, don't do it. The LPF and BPF filter components are also very finely tuned. I tried 12 different 1.8uH inductors in the 40 and 80 LPFs with results ranging form acceptable losses to flames. Can you use a 2N7002 where I spec a slightly more expensive BSS123L? Some place you can, some you can't, other places you can until the SWR hits 2.5:1. I have spent many hours adjusting the recipe and I can assure you that if you change the ingredients, you'll have a different meal!
Parts Placement
In the files section below are two part placement drawings. One for parts on the bottom of the board, RS-HFIQ Rev D.brd_top.pdf, and another for parts on the top of the board, RS-HFIQ Rev D.brd_bottom.pdf. These files are an enlarged version of the silk-screen layer of the board that also show the solder pads, they may be useful in locating parts on the PCB. W1JDS took the Eagle files of the schematic and layout and made the text searchable which makes parts much easier to find.
Schematic
The schematic drawing is also in the files section below. The schematic was captured using Eagle PCB software. Remember that net on the schematic that are identified with the same name are connected, even if no visible connection exists in the schematic.
Gerber Files
The RS-HFIQ REV D GERBER.PDF file below, provides a print out of each layer of the PCB and the soldering stencils.
Eagle files for the schematic, PCB layout and the actual Gerber files are available upon request via the support forum.
Construction Tips
If you have a tip for other builders, email it to me, jim (at) hobbypcb (dot) com, and I'll post it here:
Build Blogs
If you are creating a blog of your build, send me a link and I'll post it here: