T-5 Install - Option 3

At A Glance:

65-79 Ford F-100 - F250 2x4 Frame & Body.

'79 300cid I6 Ford Engine and Manual Transmission Bellhousing.

'93 5.0l V8 Mustang World Class T-5 Transmission.

Modern Drive Line "Toploader to T-5" Adapter

Introduction:

This is not a bad swap at all to do. Most of the work was straight forward. I did this swap while I was swapping the engine from one truck to another. You DO NOT need to pull the engine, but you WILL need to pull the Bellhousing off. I am running a Highly Modified 300 and I think it will hold up fine. So if you are running a Stock to Mild 300 you should be golden!

Parts Acquisition:

The first thing you will need to do is get a T-5. There are A LOT of them out there, but you want to make sure that you get the right kind. If you get the wrong one, it could be to weak and blow up behind the Torque of a 300. The one you want is out of a 92-93 Ford Mustang with a 5.0l V8. This is a “World Class” T-5 (just a name, don’t read into it to much). These are rated at 300ft-lbs of Torque, just fine for a 300. (Just as a note, I have seen these on 400+ hp Mustangs and they do fine, it is all about how you drive it.) The reason you need this one and not the latter ones, is because of the Input Shaft Length. The ’94 on up had a longer shaft to move the shifter back.

Parts Operational Check:

Now that you have the T-5, do you need to rebuild it? Once you get it installed it is not bad to take out, so you could wait to see if it needs it after the install. You will only be out a few bucks for more ATF. If you do decide to rebuild, it is not bad to do. There are lots of sites that show you how. This manual is a must have. All you need is Time, standard tools, a big press (10 Ton) and a pair of Snap Ring Pliers. It took me about 9 hours on a Saturday. I would suggest the rebuilt kit from D&L. It incorporates the better parts from the ’94 on up. So you basically get a ’95 in a ’93 case. I would suggest a Short Throw Shifter with Adjustable Stops. ($75-$200) The Stock shifter feels really loose. (Actually it is about what the stock 4-speed was.) Also you are doubling the amount of force you could put on the shifter and could break it.

Now for the install:

1) Remove the Clutch Linkage.

• 1. • Now would be a good time to grease everything up and replace and worn bushings.

2) Remove Transmission Support, Shifter & Tunnel.

• 1. • You will have to support the Engine.

3) Drain and Remove Existing Transmission.

• 1. • You will have to Drop the drive shaft to do this.

4) Remove Bellhousing.

5) Replace Clutch Set, Throughout Bearing, Pilot Bearing, etc… (Optional)

• 1. • I used a full stock setup

6) Clean and Paint Frame area. (Optional)

7) Install Adaptor onto Bellhousing.

• 1. • Mount using 2 flush bolts on Left side.

     • Drill 3/8” hole in Lower Right Hole. (You can use the Adaptor as a Guide)

     • Thread 3/8” hole with 7/16 – 14 Tap. (You can use the Adaptor as a Guide)

     • Drill 7/16” hole in Upper Right Hole.

     • Remove Boss on inside of Bellhousing.

       • You will know which one when you drill the hole.

       • I used a friends Milling Machine, but you could use a grinder.

       • Clean and Paint Bellhousing. (Optional)

8) Clean and Paint Bellhousing. (Optional)

9) Bolt Adaptor to Bellhousing and Torque down.

10) Install Bellhousing.

11) Install Clutch Linkage.

12) Install T-5

• The T-5 will sit slightly rotated CC about 5deg. This is so the adaptor would have enough meat around the bolts.

• The T-5 should just slide right in.

• Don’t forget to hook up the Speedometer cable!

13) Notch out Transmission Support and drill holes.

• Mark Drive Centerline (drive centerline is the front-to-back hole on the crossmember)

• Notch should be 1” Deep, 4” Wide (on the flat). the Top loaders are 5" from the driveshaft centerline to the mounting face. And the T-5 is 6" using the stock mount.

• Holes should be 2 1/16” center-to-center and centered about the drive centerline. You also want their centers to be about 3/8”-1/2” from the edge of the backside of the crossmember.

• Prep & Paint

14) Bolt up the Transmission Support.

• If you have buckets then the shifter will be in a sweet spot.

• Paint & Install. I put a piece of Foam around the shifter and the Tunnel to better insolate it.

15) Fabricate a Shifter.

• I used some 1/4" Al tubing that I had to mock-up the right bends and length.

• Here is how mine looks.

16) Patch hole in Transmission Tunnel from previous shifter (if applicable)

• Cut hole for T-5 shifter in Transmission Tunnel.

• • • The seat will need to be all the way back, if you are using a bench seat.

    • Put you Mat or Carpet back in and Install a Shift Boot. I don't have my Mat or Carpet in yet, but I did install the Boot.

17) Slip yoke in and measure for drive shaft length.

• I will not say what mine is because you should measure YOUR application to make sure it is correct.

• If you don’t know how to measure, ask the driveline shop, they should be able to tell you.

18) Have Drive Shaft work done.

• • • Might as well get new U-Joints.

    • As a note: My 3-speed Yoke fit the T-5 just fine.

19) Install Drive Shaft.

20) Fill T-5 with ATF. (Yes ATF in a manual, I know it is weird.)

• • • Fill until if comes out the fill plug on the passenger side. (about 3.2qts)

• • • I wait to do this until the end in case I have to remove it

21) Check Pinion Angle vs. Drive Line Angle. Shim the rear axle if required.

• • • My T-5 sat right at 5deg, just like the Stock 3 speed.

    • Also interesting that the T-5 (with adaptor) was almost the exact same length as my 3 Speed.

ENJOY that extra gear or two!!