c. How to make 20' HP TV

Another attempt to build PC VGA,HDMI,AV,TV using universal LCD controller

Model: LA.MV9.P V59

TSUMV59 version controller is available IN THIS SHOP

A build is a bit tricky, so worth to describe all steps on website.

As screen base, was used broken HP laptop but with good 20' screen.

The funny thing of this laptop is nice screen's stand.

Ok, first of all, disassembling of laptop and removing screen with support, was a bit tricky, but after hundreds removed screws I was able to open bracket and check display model, it is LP201WE1-TLA1 display, his datasheet is available after little search in internet.

When checked LVDS connector, it was strange 40pin connector, with raster smaller than normal 30pin laptop connectors, surely not available at any shops.

So it was clear that I have to use existing LVDS cable to made a proper connection with controller, especially because I want to reuse this strange silver stand/support of screen.

At first look, connection was easy, but in practice was a lot multimeter work to identify cables for inverter, LVDS and other not used "things", main display supply is 5V and 2ch 8bit LVDS connection, so should work.

So I made LVDS cable, programed controller with 1680x1050 DO8L firmware, and after connection screen was white - WTF, why not working ?

I check connection 2 times and was sure cable is good, but still no picture. Well, time to look once more at datasheet.

Along with main 5V there also Voltage Veeid = 3.3V for ID eeprom, normally eeprom ID is not needed so, I did not connected this voltage. So maybe there is something wrong ? Yes - when looking at datasheet I found that current Ieeid for Veeid was about 100mA, that is a 100 times too much to be supplied EEPROM only, as usually EEPROM chip consuming no more than 1mA, surely there is also supplied something more, like for example LVDS input buffer chip.

So, most probably, I need two voltages to run this screen, so I added a small DC/DC step-down converter, it was set for 3.3V to add this missing Voltage, I used THIS CONVERTER . So, in magic way, screen starts to work, so I've seen that is in good condition and can be reused in project.

Well, better is to not use DC/DC converter, especially as controller by his self provide 5V and 3.3V, as supply for internal chips.

So when jumper on controller is set as 5V, than LCD supply takes 5V from controller's DC/DC converter, and than from this 5V LDO (Low Drop Output) stabilizer 1084 made 3.3V for LCD 3.3V screens and internal Vcc - so at free pin of supply jumper we have 3.3V , what can be used for screen's Veeid supply, especially because working current is only additional 100mA, so for LDO is not much.

So I made socket with LVDS cable and additional cable for 3.3V connection to jumper's free 3.3V pin, that way I have main screen Vcc as 5V and additional Veeid 3.3V.

There is also cable for power supply and BL signal of 2 lamps original CCFL inverter,

reused original inverter because fits in bracket as "original" he he .

So now, when everything works electronically, it is time to made mechanical part of work.

First I found a wooden board (from old furniture) and will use it as stand for monitor. So I had to simply screw stripped laptop's stand to board. From bracket was removed all not used devices and cables.

Only remained cables are for LVDS (with inverter) and for speakers. Speakers already from factory, are mounted in screen's bracket.

So it is time to add controller at back side of screen, mounted by screws to wooden board. And check if all works.

Next is to close bracket and mount keyboard at front side of stand board by double side adhesive type (Apple style) .

At back of monitor is time to made an ugly wooden box to cover LCD controller. Two wooden blocks plus piece of floor (batten).

Blocks mounted by adhesive tape :) , just to keep in place before I add final screws.

It is so ugly, that is time to made a final glare. For this I used stapler and cheap plastic leather imitation, used for some furniture.

At front side the same way adding some foam under coverage, to be nice and soft in touch, no foam at keys place, so keys are easy accessible and reliably working when pressed.

As result, finished monitor have wide range of setting angle.

As the end of work, is time to watch some stupid movies and stupid pictures from external USB HDD .

As supply was used regular wall adapter 12V 2A , adapter become a bit warm but not hot.