Embedded Files
This television was General Electric's approach to make a lower cost larger screen television than the popular RCA design introduced in 1946. GE eliminated the power transformer and simplified some circuits to bring the cost down. This TV was a 10 inch diameter round tube TV that sold for around $250. About $50 less than the conventional TV. I found this TV from Craigslist in Orange County, CA for $30. This TV had many mid year design changes and model versions, so restoring the TV with proper service documents is a challenge. The model 805 was the bakelite cousin to the 806 and is often called the "Locomotive".
First Restoration 2016
BEFOREHere is what the TV looked like before restoration:
PICTURE TUBE TEST
Already checked before I bought the TVI did a quick check of the 10FP4 (aluminized version of the 10BP4) at the place I bought it. I decided to do a full check including short removal to clean out the tube.
RESULT good emission and cleaned out some shorts. Don't have to worry about the picture tube at this time.
This TV use half a socket for CRT connecting. So when you plug the socket in two picture tube pins are exposed but they are not used.
LOOK FOR DAMAGED PARTS
Found that the horizontal frequency coil has been damaged and the adjustable core was missing. I manage to get a core from a junked radio IF transformer.
Took a couple of days to fix plus locate a broken tapped wire and tested the coil per schematic data.
Next, I had to repair the horizontal drive adjustable capacitor, has a missing screw. Luckily I had a spare one. Put both back where they are suppose to be and looks like the original.
Next, I had to repair the horizontal drive adjustable capacitor, has a missing screw. Luckily I had a spare one. Put both back where they are suppose to be and looks like the original.
COMPONENTS
This TV has a lot of paper capacitors, dry electrolytic capacitors and selenium rectifiers which are prone to failure. I decided that all the paper capacitors, out of tolerance resistors will be replaced with new parts. The electrolytics will be restuffed with new ones, selenium rectifiers will be left in place but silicon rectifiers will be used and rewired into the power supply circuits. This TV uses phenolic plastic terminal or tag boards to mount most of the capacitors, resistors and coils. Although might make the TV easier to assemble, repairing is a little more cumbersome because it can be hard to identify the part due to the field of view or viewing angle. Because GE wanted to sell this TV as a compact table model, part access is rather tight and requires frequent chassis repositioning. Definitely not the easiest TV to work on.
REBUILDING ELECTROLYTICS
This TV has a lot of electrolytic capacitors. Eight separate packages containing 14 units. These I decided to restuff making them original.
Here is a quick look of the restoration for various packages. (See BELOW)
Here is a quick look of the restoration for various packages. (See BELOW)
REMOVE PAPER CAPACITORS, OUT OF TOLERANCE RESISTORS and CHECK SUSPECT CAPACITORS
View of Chassis Wiring with new capacitors and resistors
Sample of replaced components.
The tag boards make it difficult to locate parts and check. Parts are mounted on both sides of the tag boards. Access required turning the chassis around often. I gather that when GE built this set, the tag boards may have been preasssembled, installed and wire connections made. The electronics at the tuner were crunched in tight spaces. Some components were unaccessible unless the tuner switch was removed (very difficult and risky). I avoided this. On the far right are samples of discarded parts. On TVs I don't like to restuff capacitors because space is already tight, when you service them it is a great help to be able to find the parts or get access to them with measuring equipment.
Power Up
Got Raster!
Problem! When I got a signal from the converter box, the picture would not stabilize in horizontal or vertical. Looks like a synch circuit problem.
View of restored chassis installed into restored cabinet.
Restoring Dry Aluminum axial lead electrolytics Left to Right:
1. Mark all leads that need to be reconnected when the capacitor is restored2. Pull out the aluminum can from cardboard tube, then cut one side of can and pull out old "guts".3. Clean out can, drill holes as needed to install leads then insert new part into can4. Push can all the way in making sure new leads come out, close the carboard tube and test on capacitor checker for leakage and capacity.
Restoring Multisection chassis mount electrolytics Left to Right:
1. Assess the area they are located to figure out the best way for removal. These are difficult to remove and requires patience.2. Remove leads and mark them for reinstallation. These are usually chassis mounted and sometimes the mount tabs are soldered making removal tedious.3. After removal from chassis, mark the can for alignment and cut the can from base. Use a heat gun to ease removal of original "guts".4. Install new parts on the base. May require some hole drilling and alignment of new parts. Check the new parts. The cover is cleaned and will install later.
CABINET RESTORATION
7. RIGHT: Examine plastic bezel for damage and deformation. This one needed to be repainted.
1. LEFT: The original finish as found. Not bad shape, some missing veneer and one side has pretty deep scratch and dents.
8. RIGHT: After repainting installed extra tough double backed tape.
2. LEFT: Veneer replacement. I cut the old veneer out leaving a rectangular shape (use a regular shape is easiest. Then fit the new veneer into the spot.
9. RIGHT: Installed bezel and safety glass. Check safety glass for paint sprays and dirt. Use 00 or 000 steel wool and beeswax together to remove paint and grime/dirt. Notice the two gold color round decorative screws on top of set. These are part of the safety glass mount.
3. LEFT: Veneer patch installed and stripped off old finish. Always a mess and can be harmful to your skin so wear nitrile gloves.
10. RFIGHT: Completed cabinet.
4. LEFT: This side has deep scratches and dents that damage the veneer. I decided to reveneer this side. Veneer can be purchased or ordered from your better more specialized places that sell mainly lumber.
5. LEFT: New mahogany veneer installed. Need to use "CONTACT" cement sold at hardware stores.
6. LEFT: Depending on your preferences, use a neutral or mahogany stain. Let dry and then spray with oil base polyurethane finish.
1. LEFT: The original finish as found. Not bad shape, some missing veneer and one side has pretty deep scratch and dents.
8. RIGHT: After repainting installed extra tough double backed tape.
2. LEFT: Veneer replacement. I cut the old veneer out leaving a rectangular shape (use a regular shape is easiest. Then fit the new veneer into the spot.
9. RIGHT: Installed bezel and safety glass. Check safety glass for paint sprays and dirt. Use 00 or 000 steel wool and beeswax together to remove paint and grime/dirt. Notice the two gold color round decorative screws on top of set. These are part of the safety glass mount.
3. LEFT: Veneer patch installed and stripped off old finish. Always a mess and can be harmful to your skin so wear nitrile gloves.
10. RFIGHT: Completed cabinet.
4. LEFT: This side has deep scratches and dents that damage the veneer. I decided to reveneer this side. Veneer can be purchased or ordered from your better more specialized places that sell mainly lumber.
5. LEFT: New mahogany veneer installed. Need to use "CONTACT" cement sold at hardware stores.
6. LEFT: Depending on your preferences, use a neutral or mahogany stain. Let dry and then spray with oil base polyurethane finish.
Restoration UPDATE November 2018
Restoration UPDATE November 2018
Use link below: Page 2 GE 806 Restore NOV 2018
Return to Ideas for Restoration Home Page: Restoration HOME
Go to Restore GE 806 November 2018 Update: Page 2 GE 806 Restore NOV 2018
Google Sites
Report abuse