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Part 3 Cabinet Restoration
RESTORATION PERIOD: start October 2014 end February 2015
The goal here is to try and have the cabinet resemble what it looked like in 1950. Problem here is that the dyes and finishes have changed or are no longer allowed to be sold. The cabinet can be properly preped but can the finish resemble the original?
Appearance of Cabinet when I first brought it home
Other Sections to go to
RCA TC-125 RESTORATION PART 1: RESTORE RCA TC-125 PART 1
RCA TC-125 RESTORATION PART 2: RESTORE RCA TC-125 PART 2
Ideas for Restoration HOME Page: HOME
1. Repair or restore the mechanical parts.
Channel Selector Dial was broken and the piece was missing. Made a piece to fit the missing piece from acrylic plastic and with quick setting epoxy bond the pieces together. Paste gold numbering from behind with help from transparent inkjet paper anda computer then paint the background black.
2. Disassemble the cabinet parts. The pieces removed will inspected, cleaned and repaired/restored if needed.
RESULT: The bezel has rusting along the edge where the picture tube made contact. This wiill be visible when the TV is viewed, sand off rust and repaint. The speaker grilled looked great and just needed to be cleaned. The pilot light assembly needed to be cleaned and buffed.
RESULT: The bezel has rusting along the edge where the picture tube made contact. This wiill be visible when the TV is viewed, sand off rust and repaint. The speaker grilled looked great and just needed to be cleaned. The pilot light assembly needed to be cleaned and buffed.
Cabinet Mission Philosophy
For a 1950 boat anchor set, the cabinet actually in decent shape. Some detailed work will have to be done but a complete overhaul is not needed. My goal is to renew the original color and finish of the set when it was purchased, but leave the minor damage and blemishes made over the years alone to indicate it is vintage. In many cases attempts to overhaul the cabinet and make it look new could also lead to a dissapointed result of looking too new or non vintage.
Removal of the picture tube bezel, pilot light and speaker grille:
For a 1950 boat anchor set, the cabinet actually in decent shape. Some detailed work will have to be done but a complete overhaul is not needed. My goal is to renew the original color and finish of the set when it was purchased, but leave the minor damage and blemishes made over the years alone to indicate it is vintage. In many cases attempts to overhaul the cabinet and make it look new could also lead to a dissapointed result of looking too new or non vintage.
Removal of the picture tube bezel, pilot light and speaker grille:
Everything removed. Now comes the messy part, stripping off the old finish!
3. Stripping and sanding is a messy, smelly and time consuming part of cabinet restoration. Wear gloves when using the stripper as well as sanding (easy way to get spinters, cuts and scatches).
RESULT: often during this process, damaged or delaminated areas will be found. Have to work each area with a plan. Often each situation will require a diffetrent strategy to repair and restore.
A. Start with the top as a test area. Often in vintage wood cabinets, colored varnishes and laquers were used to give a uniform look to the cabinet giving the impression that the same kind of wood was used throughout. After stripping I will find out what will be the dominant wood type and finish will be.
Use a powerful stripper on old finishes, because they are often applied with a thicker or heavier texture than modern finishes. Even with the heavy duty stripper it still took two applications to completely remove the old finish. On the right is how the top looks like with the old finish removed and some light sanding done with 80 and 150 grit sandpaper. Notice the dark areas, these are dpressions of blemishes cause by rubbing or a hard drop by a heavy object in the past. Don't try to remove by sanding, you will only damage the verneer and will look worse. Besides when you get done it will have a vintage look!
Use a powerful stripper on old finishes, because they are often applied with a thicker or heavier texture than modern finishes. Even with the heavy duty stripper it still took two applications to completely remove the old finish. On the right is how the top looks like with the old finish removed and some light sanding done with 80 and 150 grit sandpaper. Notice the dark areas, these are dpressions of blemishes cause by rubbing or a hard drop by a heavy object in the past. Don't try to remove by sanding, you will only damage the verneer and will look worse. Besides when you get done it will have a vintage look!
Before adding a stain, I use 220 or 320 grit sandpaper then wipe off the dust with a clean paper towel or cheese cloth. On the left I applied a heavy coat of red mahoghony stain to enhance the mahoghony verneer. A few minutes later I wiped off the excess stain. The end pieces however are not mahoghony so they stained differently. Later I will probably use a wood finish toner to match the color of end pieces to match the verneer. Notice the dark areas on the verneer, indicating damaged areas. They will be left alone for that vintage look!
B. Doing the sides and repairing any major damage like missing verneer. I continue the stripping, sanding and staining. Important to take your time and work a specific section at any one session. Using power like an electric sander seems like a fast way to get the job done, but one can run the risk of damaging the verneer or the wood parts. Patience is the best attitude to take.
One side done. After inspection everything looks good with no apparent damage to the verneer or wood product. Go ahead and stain the wood, then go to the other side.
When stripping and sanding the other side some veneer damage was found on the rear leg. It was large enough that it could not be left alone. I decide to repair it by replacing the verneer in that section.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8. 9.
From above:1. with a small craft blade or box cutter trim of the old verneer in a way that the new verneer will be easy to install.2. Often the underlayers of the old verneer needs to be replaced leaving a deeper depression. A filler needs to be installed. At many hardware stores iron on edge verneers can be purchased. Cut and use what one needs to fill the depression allowing the final verneer to fit in place and flush with the original.3. file and sand off the excess. Be careful not to put alot of pressure or the filler can separate or rip off.4. Obtain the closest matching verneer that is the same type of wood as original (mahogany in this case). Small pieces can be purchased from lumber stores that sell hardwood and other exotic furniture grade wood.5. Apply CONTACT (TM) Cement to one side of the verneer and the surface to be applied on. Allow it to become tacky (around 10-15 minutes)6. Inspect the original verneer around the damage area and also apply CONTACT (TM) cement to areas that are not adhereing to the underlying wood.7. Press the verneer on. Use clamps with light pressure to provide better contact.8. Carefully sand with 150 or higher sandpaper to smooth out any roughness or uneven edges.9. Ready to stain.
Brushed wood glue liberally around separated areas on both parts and used clamps to secure (glue sets in 30 minutes and dries overnight)
4. Unexpected Damage
During the stripping and sanding process the finished top part started to separate on one side.
During the stripping and sanding process the finished top part started to separate on one side.
5. Getting back on track
C. Stripping and preping the front: This is a very critical part, since this is the part of the cabinet seen most often. The colors must blend and have the appearance of the same type of wood. Often manufacturers use other kind of wood of lower cost but superior strength for this part to make the nice trims, bezels and frames. They color or tone the wood with laquers to match the desired color (in this case mahogany).
The speaker area on the front totally stripped of old finish and sanded just before applying stain. The right photo shows the cabinet after using mahogany stain. Notice the uneveness and blotchy look of the front wood parts. These parts stain differently than mahogany verneer indicating a different kind of wood.
Need to use a wood toner to make a more uniform finish. These can be found in craft and hobby stores. They come in different colors and in spray cans. They are dyed laquer type product. They dry fast so practice before you try to make the job easier.
Mask the areas you don't want the to make contact. If you use tape for masking, I recommend FROG TAPE (TM) it is great for masking without a mess. >>>>>>>
Finishing products (L to R):
1. Wood Toner2. Polyurethane Spray for final finish3. Stain for coloring the wood.
1. Wood Toner2. Polyurethane Spray for final finish3. Stain for coloring the wood.
When you spray the finish coat (polyurethane) feel the surface after it dries. If there is someroughness, use a 320 grit sandpaper and verygently sand the rough spots and with your handgently rub the surface to check for smoothness.Then add another light coat. It should be smoother.
DONE!
Repair and restore the other cabinet parts, such as remove the rust and add rust preventatives. Buff and clean the grime off the parts. One thing I did not mention the large panel that surrounds the picture tube is a mahoghony laminate (common in those days). Avoid harsh chemicals and abrasives. If you need to buff it, use super fine rubbing compound, a damp cloth to pick up the rubbing compound, then dry it and use a furniture polish like PLEDGE (TM) to clean and shine. The laminate on this cabinet looked good, but there were numerous chips and scratched that cannot be repaired unless I found a replacement laminate. The damages were minor and gave the cabinet a vintage look.
6. Finishing up and installing the cabinet parts
Repaint the RCA Victor LOGO ALL FINISH WITH THE CABINET! Is it Vintage looking or NOT?
7. Make a Cabinet Back Cover
Often the back cover is missing on consoles which often tells me that the TV has been serviced and the cover was not placed back for convenience or have the TV run cooler.
I found a picture of a TV back from similar but later RCA model and tried to see where the vent holes and cutouts were. However the antenna terminals, AC cheater cord connection and the position of the adjustment controls were different. I had to improvise as to what was the best for this particular TV. Luckilly the building supply stores had a similar colored press board to what was used in the 1950s.
Drilling all those vent holes is an easy way to pass the time away!
1. 2. 3. 4.
8. Put Everything Back
Hope that I can find a better replacement for the fine tuning and channel selector.
Hope that I can find a better replacement for the fine tuning and channel selector.
9. Success! A new yoke has been found and I get a full picture!
Installed the chassis, speaker, antenna terminalr and pilot light. The TV had no back so I will either make one or find a similar one from a discarded unit.
Too bad for the bad yoke, nice looking vintage TV console. Notice the little red-orange dot at the bottom of the cabinet. It is a pilot light letting you know the television is on. How quaint!
I was able to hide the chip marks on the laminate panel the frames the picture tube. Just use a brown permanent marker pen.
The vintage look! Glowing vacuum tubes.
10. Before and After Photos
FRONT VIEW OF CABINET
LEFT BEFORE RIGHT AFTER
11. Final Touch- was able to make a replacement knob set for the channel selector and fine tuning knobs. Also there are RCA TV decals available that can replace the worn out wording for the front panel controls.
BEFORE AFTER
12. APRIL 2018 UPDATE
Found on Ebay, a set of the original tuning and fine tuning knobs for this model at a great price. Now the cabinet is finally done.
Found on Ebay, a set of the original tuning and fine tuning knobs for this model at a great price. Now the cabinet is finally done.
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