* Using a single lens camera
http://nzphoto.tripod.com/sterea/stereotake.htm
The above website will be used in the workshop to help you see the techniques to be used in creating stereo/3d image using a single lens camera. Most of us do not have a 3d digital camera (yet) so
this technique will get you immediately into 3d imagery production with your existing camera and no need for attachments. The below is an excerpt from the above website:
The easy method is to walk sideways until there is an appreciable shift between the foreground and background objects which are to be included.
Experience is the best judge of how big "appreciable" is. So beginners should take pictures at increasing separation and decide later which are the best stereo pair.
You are actually aiming to have 2 degree parallax between objects on the horizon and objects near at hand. You learn to judge this without measurement or you would never get the picture taken!
Look at something 2 meters away and block one eye, then the other. See how much it jumps sideways compared with an object on the horizon. That is the parallax you are aiming for - so remember how it looks.
Your little finger held at arm's length is about 2° wide. Align the closest object with the most distant object on the left of your little finger. Step to the right until they line up on opposite sides of the finger. That is near enough to 2° parallax. (Be careful nobody becomes upset at the sight of your elevated finger...)
Learn what 1.2mm looks like in your 35mm camera viewfinder. In landscape format it is 1/30 of the width (landscape format). You may find a couple of scratches or part of the focusing system that is about 1.2mm apart on the view screen. Use the 2 meters versus infinity trick to find it, with a 35mm lens on the camera and a stereo base of 65mm.
Now use this distance to measure linear parallax in the viewfinder when using any other focal length lens or close-up system. It is far easier than calculating.
In Nikkormat cameras, for example, the width of the exposure meter window is twice the desired parallax. Once you know that you can confidently use any telephoto lens or close-up extension tubes and arrange satisfactory stereoscopic viewing conditions without any calculations at all. However, you get the calculations here for those who are not satisfied with simplicity.
You will need to exclude objects which are too close and will interfere with the window effect (see later).
The camera could be aligned on one of the near-by objects as this will automatically set a good stereo window, greatly simplifying mounting the pictures later.
This results in slight camera toe-in (by up to 2 degrees) which is not considered good for macro-photography but is OK for hyperstereoscopy of distant objects, where key-stone effect is not a great problem.
If you aim at the most distant objects, the stereo window will be in that distant plane, which is most undesirable for good stereo effect. If you do this, the pictures will have to be cut later for window. (This is in fact the obsessional way to do it, when you are more experienced, and will give the best results).